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Old 12-30-2013, 03:22 AM   #61
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I've personally not had any. I believe a 135i here races with one. I've not heard any complaints from them on it.
The only reason we've not swapped from the Cusco to the Wavetrac is the investment already spent. Can't exactly bin a $1800 LSD center!

The direct steering (lack of push) that comes from a Torsen diff is great.
Just that the Quaife really let us down when we needed positive drive out of corners.

Likely you'll never find its limits out on the road.

Torsen + no zero torque condition is a winner in my book.
The wave trac does sound like a winner, we still have a lot of roads that have gravel on the side, and with work, some of the car parks are gravel, the last one was mud lol

I would get looks if I couldn't get out of a customers car park lol


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Old 12-30-2013, 03:25 AM   #62
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Nleksan, specs would be great, and of course some photos when you can


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Old 12-30-2013, 04:08 AM   #63
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In fact, I can't even bring myself to remove the audio (7" double DIN touchscreen head unit, 2 McIntosh lightweight amps, all factory speakers replaced with Focal Utopia/kit7 components)! The rear seat removal, and install of an Alcantara wrapped bench in its place, is the biggest concession I have made thus far (plus the gauges, and front seats, I suppose).
In for any pics you have of this install as well. I didn't go Utopia $$ but I just install K3 and K2 components in my touring. I was going to use my 6ch Mc amp but decided to try out the Focal 6ch.

when you get a chance - can you measure the pulley and take pics of it? Or do you know the specs? I wouldn't mind having one made to increase the boost a little more

Thanks

Hopefully the funeral wasn't for a close loved one - no matter the relation, sorry for your loss
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:26 AM   #64
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I will do what I can!

And thanks, unfortunately it was for my grandmother, and she and I were extremely close so it was very difficul, but I can take some solace however small in knowing that she is no longer suffering (Stg3 lung cancer). I provided in home hospice for her in the two months leading to her passing, which was on the 23rd. Just a year ago on Dec 8, my grandfather passed from thessame disease.
Starting to hate the holidays.

I am going off a VERY vague recollection, but I believe that the pulley is 78.5mm or 79mm, but there were 4 made before we found the Goldilocks size.

Nice system you have there, I am a bit of an audiophile mmyself (I have a small "studio" and record, mix, and master for local artists, more as a hobby than anything, and charge just enough to cover costs and then maybe 10pct on top; I like the idea of giving these musicians a chance to have their music heard). Most of my audio is in the form of headphones, and I love Grado (have SR225, RS2, GS1000, PS1000). The nicest speakers i have are some Cremona Auditors. Finishing up a "refresh" of my home theater, though, mostly adding rather than replacing, with a full 11.4ch setup (now for the 85"+ 4K TVs to become affordable).

I may actually be trading my current Focals to a friend in exchange for a genuine CSL airbox + Akrapovic full titanium exhaust and someo ther bits to get the M3 project rolling. Already have some Swain Tech coated SS V1 stepped headers, VAC superlight pulleys, Dinan ITB's, as far as the motor goes, and my "old" ST Trophy kit is installed (bare aluminum finish 6P 380 slotted front, 4P 365 slotted rear). Suspension is mostly sorted.


If you have a good machine shop, you can have a billet pulley made for not too terribly much money. I just gave them my TS2+ one and my buddy did the size math (psychopharmacology is my field, but math is my enemy lol).
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:28 AM   #65
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Oh, just wanted to say, even though I left the forums for a while, I followed your builds from the get and they were quite honestlywhat iinspired me to go as far as I did.

Beautiful cars!
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:40 AM   #66
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Very sad to hear nleksan.


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Old 12-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #67
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Carrillo rods and cp pistons seem to get great reviews, on the carrillo website they list their h beams as race use only, but have the pro a beams recommended for street use with FI.

Could anyone enlighten me to why they are race use only? Are they 'streetable'?

Have many people used the arrow rods and are these streetable?

My thinking at the moment is to use cp forged pistons, standard compression, with the view of leaving some room ( through strong bottom end) for a little added boost and custom tune if/ when this is retired from daily driving.


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Old 12-30-2013, 09:05 PM   #68
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Carrillo rods and cp pistons seem to get great reviews, on the carrillo website they list their h beams as race use only, but have the pro a beams recommended for street use with FI.

Could anyone enlighten me to why they are race use only? Are they 'streetable'?
Depends on what they are made of. Aluminum for example has a fatigue life much shorter than the steel alloys.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:14 PM   #69
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Depends on what they are made of. Aluminum for example has a fatigue life much shorter than the steel alloys.
Just thinking the same thing !


Also "street" bearing clearances are tighter than their corresponding "race" bearing clearances.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:27 PM   #70
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Thank you both for your replies, will investigate their metallurgy further.


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Old 12-30-2013, 09:30 PM   #71
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Please keep in mind my background is predominantly older V8 engines, although I am capable of the work as such, I have a heap to learn when it comes to the e46


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Old 12-30-2013, 09:34 PM   #72
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The last project, an old Aussie car lol


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Old 12-30-2013, 11:19 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davew View Post
Carrillo rods and cp pistons seem to get great reviews, on the carrillo website they list their h beams as race use only, but have the pro a beams recommended for street use with FI.

Could anyone enlighten me to why they are race use only? Are they 'streetable'?

Have many people used the arrow rods and are these streetable?

My thinking at the moment is to use cp forged pistons, standard compression, with the view of leaving some room ( through strong bottom end) for a little added boost and custom tune if/ when this is retired from daily driving.


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My TS3 is using CP forged pistons - after about 20k miles I did a rebuild (about three months ago) and the pistons and walls were in great condition. I replaced the rings as a precautionary measure.

I went in the engine because I was trying to find out why I had a misfire issue that replacing sensors, plugs, injectors, etc wouldn't fix.

Turned out the valve guides on cyl 5 were allowing enough oil by to kill the spark under hard running...but once calming down it would burn off enough that when I checked the plugs it wasn't obvious.

The machine shop inspected everything inside and out and the guides were the only thing found. The Ferrea valves and the head all looked great.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:11 AM   #74
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My TS3 is using CP forged pistons - after about 20k miles I did a rebuild (about three months ago) and the pistons and walls were in great condition. I replaced the rings as a precautionary measure.

I went in the engine because I was trying to find out why I had a misfire issue that replacing sensors, plugs, injectors, etc wouldn't fix.

Turned out the valve guides on cyl 5 were allowing enough oil by to kill the spark under hard running...but once calming down it would burn off enough that when I checked the plugs it wasn't obvious.

The machine shop inspected everything inside and out and the guides were the only thing found. The Ferrea valves and the head all looked great.
I am also running the Ferrea valves, hoping to get a bit better flow with headers and exhaust, I don't think I am getting the most out of the head at the moment.

Both conrods I mentioned earlier are similar alloy steels. Will do a bit more digging


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Old 12-31-2013, 01:44 AM   #75
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330i zhp, I have switched my laptop on, I am normally on my mobile (battery flat) and dont get all the sig pictures, your car is the best looking wagon I have seen!!! Most of the few I have seen locally are stock and titan silver. Nice
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:44 AM   #76
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Turned out the valve guides on cyl 5 were allowing enough oil by to kill the spark under hard running...but once calming down it would burn off enough that when I checked the plugs it wasn't obvious.
Really good info to know, thanks for sharing that Stu.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:58 AM   #77
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PEI330Ci, over the last 12 months, I have read so many of your posts, thank you so much for all you have shared. Most of my components were purchased from brendan_select after his decision to change direction to an E46 M3. As you can see, raceware head studs, ati balancer, M3 tensioner, etc, etc, all from research you have done. Thank you.
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:32 AM   #78
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330i zhp, I have switched my laptop on, I am normally on my mobile (battery flat) and dont get all the sig pictures, your car is the best looking wagon I have seen!!! Most of the few I have seen locally are stock and titan silver. Nice
You should see his other "5 door"!

Made me want to go out and buy one...
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:43 AM   #79
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You should see his other "5 door"!

Made me want to go out and buy one...
Picture please


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Old 01-03-2014, 04:11 AM   #80
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Running a "custom TSE3" myself (non-ESS supported), on a fully built M52TuB28 in my 328Ci w a 6MT swap from an 06 ZHP.

I have had the car since the first week of 2006, and it's gone through a number of transformations as I, and it, have aged and matured; suspension has been fully reworked 3 times, 5 brake kits, probably two dozen wheel sets, various exterior "setups", and the engine has goneffrom stock to mild bolt ons, to pushing it N/A As much as possible without getting into the bottom end (a new head with flow benching followed by porting, all new valvetrain from VAC/BW, Schrick cams, radiused valve job, etc) + the full bolt on monty, and finally a fresh ground up boost oriented build designed to support over 20psi @ 10.5:1 CR up to 7900rpm.

Needless to say, it has been anything but a cheap journey, and I would have saved tens upon tens of thousands had I done everything "right" the first time. Still, it's the journey, not the destination, right?


I can give you some advice, but know that this is based solely on my experience and may well conflict with others experience...

- At this level, maintenance is the difference between a perfect car and a junked $20,000 motor, and I personally have cut every single interval in half (oil every 3-5k, trans/diff every 15k, brake fluid every year and bleed every event, PS Fluid I do the turkey baster method and empty/fill reservoir every oil change, fuel filter every 15k, coolant in a 35/65 coolant/water ratio w a bottle or two RL WW every year, etc)
- I have saved thousands upon thousands by doing two things: first is that I always upgrade parts when they need replacing (for example, cooling system: Stewart pump, Samco/Stett/BW hoses, MS thermo, CR/Zionsville radiator, VAC Superlight U/D pulleys, etc), and second is to save up parts until you can have an entire section if the car worked on at once (suspension and drivetrain, for example, as my M3 ZCP is: dropped entire suspension, exhaust, both axles, and diff; JRZ 3-way coils, Hotchkis sways, OS Giken 3.55:1 28-clutch LSD w finned cover, TMS semi-solid diff mounts/bushings, RE RSM, AKG 75D subframe bushings, TMS full chassis weld in reinforcement kit, TMS Adj rear camber arms, RE RTAB + TMS limiter, TMS upper rear control arm bearings, Mahle HD FCA's + AKG FCAB's, GC Camber plates, BW Engine + Transmission "race" mounts, Meyle HD endlinks, Mason Engineering front steel strut brace + rear 3pt strut brace + rear brace to subframe X-Brace, custom front chassis X-Brace from TiG welded Chromoly steel tube, transmission tunnel and exhaust tunnel covered in "gold" reflective foil, AKG steering rack joint, custom CF single piece driveshaft, UUC EVO3+DSSR and ZHP 6spd knob, and a fair amount more; all the suspension parts not already properly finished were powder coated medium black, and the entire car underside was cleaned then resprayed Alpine White and it along with all components were film coat treated for anti-corrosion). Doing all that at once, at a friend'sshop and II have him "un-rush" it which, along with me actively working with him, resulted in a total labor charge of $1000 even, plus another $500 for paint and powder coating. It will be significantly more than that if you are not good friends with the mechanic, but it would still cost way more to split it into multiple jobs as you are disassembling the parts more times than necessary.
- DO NOT WAIT on the subframe reinforcements! And don't settle for anything less than weld-in done by a true professional! I had subframe cracking on my 328Ci just weeks after I gotit, and while BMWNA footed the bill ($9,800), I demanded that the repairs be done to the level that they're willing to warranty it for life, and that simply putting the same factory parts back I wasn't acceptable, because this is a major safety hazard. They ended up putting in an entire M3 rear end, and welding the trouble spots (the body shop doing the work said that was the only thing they felt comfortable with).

- Suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires should be upgraded to a level beyond what the engine is capable of, because in my opinion you can never have too much traction, brakes, or control.
- I would suggest at least a front, entry level big brake kit, and ideally a four-wheel StopTech/AP Racing/PFC setup. I would say that a Wilwood 4-wheel kit would be a great place to start, with the 6P/4P Superlight calipers. The StopTech ST60/ST40 is a step up, then AP Racing, then the StopTech Trophy kit, then PFC. 355mm front is the biggest rotor size to get, 380mm just adds weight and has no real benefits outside serious endurance racing. Regardless of what kit, always get 2pc floating rotors. I prefer slotted, avoid drilled. For a front only BBK, upgrade the rears w caliper rebuild kit, SS lines, brass bushings, slotted rotors, and equivalent pads to the front. For fluid, I have had ATE boil on me multiple times, with stock type brakes and even w my Trophy kit, but Motul RBF600/660 has never even gotten soft on me. It's a truly superior, in every way, fluid.

- IDK what wheels you have, but recommend spending some money on quality 18's or 19's, and honestly for Street use, the only downsideto 19s is a very aslightly harsher ride and more expensive tires, but they do look so much better in mostcases. I hhave 18s for track, 19s for Street. I would recommend a setup along the lines of 19x8.5-9 et32 to et38 front and 19x9.5-10 et38 to et45 in back, with 235-255 width front and 255-275 width rear tires. You can fit this w a bit of fender pulling, and the extra traction and wider track is worth it (I have my fenders cut, pulled, welded, formed, etc; extra 1 3/4+ inch per corner, bit less front, bit more rear).

- A Limited Slip Differential is a must have upgrade, IMO, for these cars when putting down the kind of power our TS setups make. I tried the 2-3 clutch setups, but I would only recommend an OS Giken unit anymore. The difference is huge, with progressive and smooth breakaway and lockup.

Good advice from Nleksan - if only you knew someone with a Zionsville Radiator Dave... LOL. (private joke / cheap advert for my E46 non M3 brand new Zionsville "Competition" spec radiator with aluminium expansion tank and electric fan). Also pleased to see he recommends the OS Giken LSD!

Stoked to see you getting into your build with such gusto! PEI330 has been immensely helpful to me (being a complete novice) always happy to give his time to provide advice and someone who you can trust as an expert with the M54. Congrats on your project so far Dave - Cheers, Brendan.
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