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Old 01-04-2014, 11:01 AM   #1
Alun1976
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ESS TS3 upgrade help needed please.

Hi All,

I'm upgrading to TS3 on my M54 3.0 engine and have run into a few minor problems that I could do with some help please. First of all, my machinist is going to rebore my block to suit the new size of the pistons which are CP Forged CR 9:1 84.5mm diameter, but does he not need some kind of specification sheet to confirm tolerances/clearances/Piston ring end gaps/expansion characteristics etc? My existing block is 84.0mm and he says that the standard is to allow 0.004" clearance? Can anyone please shed some light on this for me as this is holding me up at the moment? Or even, can someone please provide me with a copy of the spec sheet for these pistons? I've tried contacting ESS on several occasions and NEVER get a response. Ive also tried CP and Vac motorsports but they are sending me on a wild goose chase.

The next thing I'm concerned about is when I come to torque down the head bolts I am going to strip the threads. As far as I am aware, the block has never overheated and I would just like some views on this from those who have experience rebuilding the M54 engine. I will be using standard OEM size 0.7mm thickness head gasket and new OEM head bolts.

I'm also having the cyl head skimmed,is it also advisable to have the block skimmed? If so, will the amount of material removed from both not raise the compression ratio to an unacceptable limit? I want some reliability in my new TS3 build and want to avoid at all cost any premature head gasket failure.

These are some initial questions that I would appreciate some help with. I have more but will save these as I start to rebuild the engine. I've never rebuilt one before and am going to take my time to make sure it is precise and accurate.

Thanks for your help.

Al
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:00 PM   #2
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1) Pistons: You really NEED to get the correct info (data / spec) on your new pistons, the overbore of .004 seems a bit big. If it should have been bored to .002 over & you bored it to .004, you just screwed your self. You must find out before you do this.

2) Head bolts: DON'T use your old head bolts, BUY a new set of Raceware Head Studs, install them per the directions. Head studs are the only answer for what you're trying to accomplish.

3) Head & block prep: Understand that any material you remove from either surface will yield higher compression. This question should really be directed at ESS or possibly Vac Motorsports. My thought would be to only remove material from the head, & only enough to clean it / true it up.

Be persistent, make your phone calls.


Good luck.
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:14 PM   #3
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As always, great advice above!
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Old 01-04-2014, 05:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
1) Pistons: You really NEED to get the correct info (data / spec) on your new pistons, the overbore of .004 seems a bit big. If it should have been bored to .002 over & you bored it to .004, you just screwed your self. You must find out before you do this.

2) Head bolts: DON'T use your old head bolts, BUY a new set of Raceware Head Studs, install them per the directions. Head studs are the only answer for what you're trying to accomplish.

3) Head & block prep: Understand that any material you remove from either surface will yield higher compression. This question should really be directed at ESS or possibly Vac Motorsports. My thought would be to only remove material from the head, & only enough to clean it / true it up.

Be persistent, make your phone calls.


Good luck.
Hey thanks Rob,

I was going to use something like raceware head studs but ESS advise against them as when they used them the head kept lifting off the block. The only ones ESS recommend are OEM new head bolts but I am concerned after hearing so many stories of threads being stripped?
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:08 PM   #5
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IIRC correctly the OEM studs were 10mm and someone used 11mm studs which seemed to work well.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alun1976 View Post
Hey thanks Rob,

I was going to use something like raceware head studs but ESS advise against them as when they used them the head kept lifting off the block. The only ones ESS recommend are OEM new head bolts but I am concerned after hearing so many stories of threads being stripped?

I here what you are saying,......tough decision.

I think the person to talk to is "JimmyOberg", he has pretty good experience with this subject. I used the standard Raceware head studs #RWE-1054 (10mm for the M54B30) and installed them per the directions, I did not bother with Time Sert-ing.

Jimmy should also be able to answer your piston over bore question.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=179
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=180
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...&postcount=204

Vac Motorsports
http://www.vacmotorsports.com/catalo...ts-all-bmw.htm


Good luck.
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:34 PM   #7
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I would contact CP directly for the data sheet

I do not think I have mine anymore

I am using oem headbolts and I haven't had any problems whatsoever
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:04 AM   #8
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Hey thanks for the info guys.

I'm going to chase CP again and demand they send me the correct specification sheet. I'm not holding my breath though, it would still be nice is someone has a copy to hand and post it on here.

Question for 330i ZHP: when you installed your TS3 using the OEM head bolts did your ensure that both male and femal threads were dry or oiled? I imagine this is where the problem lies when stripping the block threads, since if they were oiled then that would create less friction and hence put increased pull out load on the bolts for the same tightening torque. What's your thoughts?
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:52 PM   #9
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Also, I'm just curious how much an ESS tune is for you guys in the States, say for the TS3 running MS45?
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:40 PM   #10
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Hi, Another TS3 owner here, I built and assembled my engine myself over a couple of months.

I went with a 0.0035 piston to wall clearance, The machine shop used a torque plate when boring and I asked them to match the pistons to indivudual bores. I used 8.8:1 compression pistons so don't have the spec sheet for you.

I also had them balance the entire rotating assembely crank, rods, pistons, clutch.

For ring gap I followed advice given by CP for forced induction engines:



The calcualtion for a supercharged engine with a 84.5 bore works out at 0.018".

When fitting the rings they should be rotated so that the gaps for each ring is aligned 180 degrees apart on the piston.

I went with raceware 10mm studs with no problems so far.

The engine has been running for around a year and it turned out great. If anything it is smoother than the original, and a recent leak down and compression test were well within spec.

If you need any other advice, Ill be happy to help. Ill be posting a build thread for my car shortly, it's a very custom ESS TS3 setup with Vipec V88 ECU, larger heat exhanger, 8 rib pulley conversion (so I can run +16psi without belt slip), full M3 running gear etc.

Good luck, if you need any more info ill be happy to help.
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:56 PM   #11
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^ Great first post !

Keep them coming.


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Old 01-05-2014, 03:09 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by zek926 View Post
Hi, Another TS3 owner here, I built and assembled my engine myself over a couple of months.

I went with a 0.0035 piston to wall clearance, The machine shop used a torque plate when boring and I asked them to match the pistons to indivudual bores. I used 8.8:1 compression pistons so don't have the spec sheet for you.

I also had them balance the entire rotating assembely crank, rods, pistons, clutch.

For ring gap I followed advice given by CP for forced induction engines:



The calcualtion for a supercharged engine with a 84.5 bore works out at 0.018".

When fitting the rings they should be rotated so that the gaps for each ring is aligned 180 degrees apart on the piston.

I went with raceware 10mm studs with no problems so far.

The engine has been running for around a year and it turned out great. If anything it is smoother than the original, and a recent leak down and compression test were well within spec.

If you need any other advice, Ill be happy to help. Ill be posting a build thread for my car shortly, it's a very custom ESS TS3 setup with Vipec V88 ECU, larger heat exhanger, 8 rib pulley conversion (so I can run +16psi without belt slip), full M3 running gear etc.

Good luck, if you need any more info ill be happy to help.
That's fantastic info, and just what I was looking for. I'm sure I will be picking your brains as I progress with my first ever engine rebuild. I am very meticulous so I won't be cutting corners.

So, did you use oversized pistons 84.5mm? CP pistons?

Also, I would be very interested in using a Vipec ECU as I would like to do my own tunes or at least learn how it's done. My car Z4 3.0 uses the MS45 ECU and this limits my options when tuning is concerned. Would I be able to use a VIPEC ECU with the MS45 do you know? The price I have been quoted for the TS3 tune to be installed on my ECU is 700 plus VAT, which I find astronomical. So, another reason why I would like a standalone ECU. I realise the viper will cost more but once bought its mine then and I can fiddle as much as I like then without it keep costing me. Was it easy to install? Was your car MS43?

What clutch did you go for? Need to get my hands on one soon.

Cheers once again, much appreciated.
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alun1976 View Post
Hey thanks for the info guys.

I'm going to chase CP again and demand they send me the correct specification sheet. I'm not holding my breath though, it would still be nice is someone has a copy to hand and post it on here.

Question for 330i ZHP: when you installed your TS3 using the OEM head bolts did your ensure that both male and femal threads were dry or oiled? I imagine this is where the problem lies when stripping the block threads, since if they were oiled then that would create less friction and hence put increased pull out load on the bolts for the same tightening torque. What's your thoughts?
I used oem bolts and installed them dry - and I spent the money and bought a Snap-On digital torque to yield wrench...it allowed the proper torque and 90deg pull (x2)
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:30 PM   #14
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Cylinder Head to Block Installation:

Stage 1 .......................... 30nm (22ft-lb)
Stage 2 .......................... +90 Deg
Stage 3 .......................... +90 Deg
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:32 PM   #15
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I never have seen this set of additional instructions and thus have never done this between stages...I hope that doesn't matter. The last build on the TS3 went about 15k before I took it apart to do an inspection and the only problem found were the valve guides

After each stage you must wait a certain time based on the ambient temperature:

68 degrees + .................. 10 Minutes
50-68 ............................ 30 Minutes
32-50 ............................ 75 Minutes
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:33 PM   #16
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Although I am probably ok since it says 10min above 68deg F and it was warm out when I did the installs each time
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:53 PM   #17
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Thanks for that 330i, again very useful info. Think with the temperatures over here though in the next couple of months I will probably have to wait 30 mins between tightening stages.

Another question, ESS recommend porting the head 8-10mm on the exhaust ports. I was thinking of marking it out myself and using a pneumatic dremel type tool with the appropriate cutting tips doing this also myself. Did you send it to a machine shop to have it done or is it fairly straight forward to do? I imagine the polishing part wold be the most tricky but I'm not too fussed about having the head polished, just going to open up the ports.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:27 PM   #18
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I would have a shop do the porting, but if you really want to do it yourself, get a spare one to practice on.

PPolishing ports is not really useful, in fact I would not use anything finer than 80-100grit sandpaper. When the ports are smooth, residue easily builds up on them, and when they are slightly rough it promotes better flow by reducing the surface area of the boundary layer air.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alun1976 View Post

So, did you use oversized pistons 84.5mm? CP pistons?
Yeah 84.5mm CP pistons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alun1976 View Post

Also, I would be very interested in using a Vipec ECU as I would like to do my own tunes or at least learn how it's done. My car Z4 3.0 uses the MS45 ECU and this limits my options when tuning is concerned. Would I be able to use a VIPEC ECU with the MS45 do you know? The price I have been quoted for the TS3 tune to be installed on my ECU is 700 plus VAT, which I find astronomical. So, another reason why I would like a standalone ECU. I realise the viper will cost more but once bought its mine then and I can fiddle as much as I like then without it keep costing me. Was it easy to install? Was your car MS43?
My car is MS43, the Vipec controls all engine functions but to make sure the dash rpm and speedo works I retain the stock DME and send it a crank and cam signal.

You could install a Vipec or any other standalone but it is A TON of work, it was not straightforward and even though I got the harness built by a reputable company I still needed to do alot of fault finding and re wiring myself.

There is alot to be said about the stock DME and tuning, it does a fantastic job and I only recommend going to a standalone as a very last resort. If I was to do it again I would purchase the software from ESS as I would have had the car up and running sooner.

That said my favorite benfit of the standalone is I can tune the drive by wire throttle to be totally linear and response is now instant. I have yet to get it tuned professionally so I am looking forward to seeing what it can do in the next month or so.

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What clutch did you go for? Need to get my hands on one soon.
I run a M3 gearbox and clutch so can not really help you there, I know clutch options for the 6 speed zf box are limited though so that's why I swapped when I had opportunity.
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:25 PM   #20
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