E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > E46 Xi Forum

E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 03-14-2014, 01:47 AM   #1
volcom772
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: las vegas
Posts: 11
My Ride: e36 325is+e92 M3
stripped oil pan bolts

ok so I have an oil leak that i have been trying to hunt down for a while. all the usual suspects OFHG, CCV, dipstick tube oring, vanos line all replaced, now leak is now much smaller. so then I use some long cotton swabs to swab up through the window on the transmission bell to see if the main seal is the culprit, its dry. so I really have it narrowed down to oil pan. I break out the in/lbs tourque wrench and just want to make sure everything is tight before I go crazy to replace gasket on an xi which should be a nightmare (I might as well just swap in the 330 while im at it.) 3 bolts on the pan are already stripped not sure if the 200+k just did it to them or the PO or PO mechanic, but it seams like every bolt i touch on this car is already stripped.

anyways what are my options at this point? not even sure how the job on an xi goes pull axels, diff, subframe and oil pan then use timesert to retap the holes?
or should i just let it drip and top it off, it only drips 1 liter every few months.
volcom772 is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 03-14-2014, 02:05 AM   #2
dardarwin01
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Franscio
Posts: 109
My Ride: 330ci
What have you taken off allready. Well sooner or later in that cars life it will be burning oil.


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
dardarwin01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2014, 09:48 AM   #3
SamDoe1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minnesnowta
Posts: 3,479
My Ride: Clubs baby seals
Quote:
Originally Posted by volcom772 View Post
anyways what are my options at this point? not even sure how the job on an xi goes pull axels, diff, subframe and oil pan then use timesert to retap the holes?
or should i just let it drip and top it off, it only drips 1 liter every few months.
That would be the process to replace the oil pan gasket.

What's stripped though? The screw head or the threads themselves? With 200k+ on the clock, I wouldn't bother with 1L a month but it depends on how long you want to keep it and how much the leak bothers you.
SamDoe1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2014, 03:38 PM   #4
volcom772
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: las vegas
Posts: 11
My Ride: e36 325is+e92 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
That would be the process to replace the oil pan gasket.

What's stripped though? The screw head or the threads themselves? With 200k+ on the clock, I wouldn't bother with 1L a month but it depends on how long you want to keep it and how much the leak bothers you.
the threads stripped out of the block. It doesn't really bother me, but im worried it will start to become worse with several stripped threads on the pan bolts.
volcom772 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2014, 08:14 PM   #5
White_Knuckles
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Washington (the state)
Posts: 1,541
My Ride: 2003 325xi
Quote:
Originally Posted by volcom772 View Post
... but it seams like every bolt i touch on this car is already stripped.
You may have luck drilling and tapping to the next size that will bite. You also may need to open the pan holes a tad for larger bolts? Thread-serts or Heil-coils are overkill.

It's a little getto but once I got lucky driving SAE (American) bolts into stripped metric threads in an aluminum casting. You have to experiment with fine or course SAE threads but it might work? Basically, depending on the size, most SAE bolts are nearly the same diameter with a different thread pitch. Lube the bolt, hand start it square/straight and drive that baby backing off occasionally. I sucked down the loose case without tapping or removing any material. Leave the pan on and try a couple SAE fine and course bolts. They should bind but not require excessive force to drive them. You're basically forming new threads. Once seated they can be backed out as normal and re-tightened to reasonable spec.
__________________
Anything made can be made Better

Last edited by White_Knuckles; 03-14-2014 at 08:18 PM.
White_Knuckles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 05:33 AM   #6
volcom772
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: las vegas
Posts: 11
My Ride: e36 325is+e92 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by White_Knuckles View Post
You may have luck drilling and tapping to the next size that will bite. You also may need to open the pan holes a tad for larger bolts? Thread-serts or Heil-coils are overkill.

It's a little getto but once I got lucky driving SAE (American) bolts into stripped metric threads in an aluminum casting. You have to experiment with fine or course SAE threads but it might work? Basically, depending on the size, most SAE bolts are nearly the same diameter with a different thread pitch. Lube the bolt, hand start it square/straight and drive that baby backing off occasionally. I sucked down the loose case without tapping or removing any material. Leave the pan on and try a couple SAE fine and course bolts. They should bind but not require excessive force to drive them. You're basically forming new threads. Once seated they can be backed out as normal and re-tightened to reasonable spec.
very interesting idea you may be a genius or i may be back in a few days with a new thread (help tried to put sae bolts in oil pan now everythings ruined !!!). I am definitely going to give that a try, would be so much easier than taking the pan off.
volcom772 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2014, 01:43 PM   #7
White_Knuckles
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Washington (the state)
Posts: 1,541
My Ride: 2003 325xi
Huge disclaimer >> I may have gotten uber-lucky here where the moon, stars and threads aligned. The application was a dirt bike crankcase where drilling and tapping the soft material was spooky with no real "boss" material to hog out. Kind of an uh-oh deal.

It was all about feel, not too much or too little resistance. That particular alloy or thread condition was forgiving to this "hack-N-tap" method >> Your results may vary.

Edit: think of it as worse-case, you strip the threads out more not stress the cast block. I didn't have self-tapping bolts or even the proper SAE taps to run it first. I worked the bolts in hack style. If it binds hard, a tap is highly recommended.
__________________
Anything made can be made Better

Last edited by White_Knuckles; 03-15-2014 at 01:48 PM.
White_Knuckles is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 11:55 PM   #8
volcom772
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: las vegas
Posts: 11
My Ride: e36 325is+e92 M3
it worked!!!, sort of. worked like a charm on one of the bolts, then went to remove the second bolt with stripped threads and the head sheered off. For grade 8 bolts these things seem to be made out of clay, same thing happened on my vcg all the studs just broke right off with almost no effort, and yes i was using a torque wrench.
volcom772 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 04:35 PM   #9
tomoyer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Reading, Pennsylvania
Posts: 781
My Ride: 03 325xi, 03 330xi
Send a message via Yahoo to tomoyer
I'm going to chime in here and ask this question first off; why in the world would you be using a torque wrench to remove nuts and bolts?!?! A torque wrench is to properly torque the nuts and bolts upon re-installing. Never a good practice to use a torque wrench for removal, if the nut or bolt is tighter than the torque figure you dialed into the wrench, you can damage said torque wrench and would either have to throw it away and get a new one or send it out to be re-calibrated so that you know it is giving 50 ft lbs of torque when set to 50 ft lbs, for example.

On the pan bolt that the head broke off on, is there any of the bolt sticking out below the oil pan itself? If there is, you can try slotting it with a dremel so that you can use a flat blade screw driver tip in a ratchet, impact wrench or small hammer type impact driver. If it has broken off flush or higher inside the oil pan, you will have a hard time with it. Great care will have to be used to slowly drill the broken bolt out, starting with a small sized, new, sharp drill bit and slowly stepping up. As you step up, if the gods are with you, it will twist out, but if not, when you get it drilled out, you will need a tap and die set to re-thread a new hole after drilling it with the proper drill size for the tap. You will want to use a FLAT BOTTOM TAP, those are not normally found in a tap and die set (the ones in most tap and die sets are pointed at the end). The reason for the Flat Bottom Tap is so you get the most amount of threads before the tap bottoms out in the hole. When tapping, you will want to use ALLOY TAPPING FLUID to lube the tap, and you will only want to make no more than 1 turn at a time before backing out to remove/release the chip(s) because you DO NOT WANT TO BREAK THE TAP OFF IN THE ENGINE BLOCK as taps are much harder than bolts and CAN NOT easily be drilled if drilled at all.
One the one that you succeeded to drive in an SAE bolt, ok, its done, but with that one you should have first tired to re-thread the engine block with the same size as was there before, and if there wasn't enough threads after doing so for the new correct bolt to tighten, you could have either put Loktite on the threads or went to the next size metric bolt and threaded the block for it after using the correct drill. Sorry White_Knuckles, your suggest, even with the later dis-claimer was ill suggested even if it had worked for you on a motorcycle.
tomoyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 04:51 PM   #10
tomoyer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Reading, Pennsylvania
Posts: 781
My Ride: 03 325xi, 03 330xi
Send a message via Yahoo to tomoyer
As a side note, just about everyone has either a Grainger or Fastal store (or other machine shop supply store) within reasonable driving distance, they are machine shop jobbers and sell flat bottom taps in both SAE course and fine thread and Metric and some even carry Bully Taps (a special Flat Bottom Tap often used to repair origional threads).
tomoyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 10:59 PM   #11
volcom772
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: las vegas
Posts: 11
My Ride: e36 325is+e92 M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomoyer View Post
I'm going to chime in here and ask this question first off; why in the world would you be using a torque wrench to remove nuts and bolts?!?! A torque wrench is to properly torque the nuts and bolts upon re-installing. Never a good practice to use a torque wrench for removal, if the nut or bolt is tighter than the torque figure you dialed into the wrench, you can damage said torque wrench and would either have to throw it away and get a new one or send it out to be re-calibrated so that you know it is giving 50 ft lbs of torque when set to 50 ft lbs, for example.

On the pan bolt that the head broke off on, is there any of the bolt sticking out below the oil pan itself? If there is, you can try slotting it with a dremel so that you can use a flat blade screw driver tip in a ratchet, impact wrench or small hammer type impact driver. If it has broken off flush or higher inside the oil pan, you will have a hard time with it. Great care will have to be used to slowly drill the broken bolt out, starting with a small sized, new, sharp drill bit and slowly stepping up. As you step up, if the gods are with you, it will twist out, but if not, when you get it drilled out, you will need a tap and die set to re-thread a new hole after drilling it with the proper drill size for the tap. You will want to use a FLAT BOTTOM TAP, those are not normally found in a tap and die set (the ones in most tap and die sets are pointed at the end). The reason for the Flat Bottom Tap is so you get the most amount of threads before the tap bottoms out in the hole. When tapping, you will want to use ALLOY TAPPING FLUID to lube the tap, and you will only want to make no more than 1 turn at a time before backing out to remove/release the chip(s) because you DO NOT WANT TO BREAK THE TAP OFF IN THE ENGINE BLOCK as taps are much harder than bolts and CAN NOT easily be drilled if drilled at all.
One the one that you succeeded to drive in an SAE bolt, ok, its done, but with that one you should have first tired to re-thread the engine block with the same size as was there before, and if there wasn't enough threads after doing so for the new correct bolt to tighten, you could have either put Loktite on the threads or went to the next size metric bolt and threaded the block for it after using the correct drill. Sorry White_Knuckles, your suggest, even with the later dis-claimer was ill suggested even if it had worked for you on a motorcycle.
Ya my post is a little confusing. I didn't use a torque wrench to remove the bolts, only when I was attempting to retourque the vcg studs and oil pan bolts. I was just using a wrench when the bolt broke off. Wish I would have had your info earlier but it's already done on one. I'll try your method for the next one if I can get the bolt out. With the sae I figured if it doesn't work I could always just time cert it and start over
volcom772 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use