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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 03-22-2014, 05:06 PM   #1
jrtsrt
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Strange rough idle after trip

My 2004 325xi had an episode this afternoon which I think is strange and can't figure out. After about a 2 hour trip on the highway I pulled into a parking lot and it started idling rough. I shut it down and went into the store, came back out, and restarted it. The rough idle was still present. I went to drive off and the SES light came on and the car lost power on acceleration. I thought it was on its way to stopping all together. Pulled into the closest lot and shut it off, popped the hood looking for anything obvious with no luck. Got back in and it started right up and ran perfect with no SES light on. Have driven it about 30 miles and the issue hasn't reappeared again so far. Any thoughts on cause? I can't tell what codes are present because the light seems to have cleared its self. One additional detail is I notice my oil light came on yesterday yellow and I checked the oil and added half a quart. The light came on again today and stayed on yellow for about 30 seconds then went out. Did this on a couple of start ups today but the oil is at the right level.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:06 AM   #2
SamDoe1
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Codes should still be stored. Pull them off and let us know what they are.
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:46 AM   #3
tomoyer
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Codes will still be stored from the incident regardless if SES is on or not. Could well have been a temporary glitch or it could be something amiss. The oil light could be a bad sensor, loss wire or telling you that the CCV is starting to clog up.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:13 PM   #4
jrtsrt
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I'm hoping for a temporary glitch. I'll have to have the codes checked tomorrow and post them. The guy at the auto shop said they probably wouldn't show unless the SES light is on.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:47 AM   #5
ItsAllAboutTheXI
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I literally went through this last week. Same rough idle and it stalled on me twice. Problem ended up being the Intake Manifold Actuator or something like that. $500 repair.
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:03 PM   #6
jrtsrt
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Did you get any codes? I just had mine read and they are 491,492, and 174. Which I believe points to either a vacuum leak or tear in the intake boots and may also be the DISA valve. I had these codes about 6 months ago and found a broken vac line near the secondary air pump which solved the issue since then. I had ordered a new DISA from G.A.S. but haven't installed it yet. I'm ding that this coming weekend. At that time I'm going to go over the intake system real good to check for cracks or worn boots. The car has not repeated this again so far since the other day and drove it all day today. No idle issues or SES light.
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:13 PM   #7
ItsAllAboutTheXI
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I had several codes, but I don't remember them off the top of my head. My mechanic told me there was a leak (must be a vacuum leak).
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:11 PM   #8
SamDoe1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsAllAboutTheXI View Post
I literally went through this last week. Same rough idle and it stalled on me twice. Problem ended up being the Intake Manifold Actuator or something like that. $500 repair.
You got robbed, that's a $180 part and takes 15 minutes to swap out.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:26 PM   #9
ItsAllAboutTheXI
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You got robbed, that's a $180 part and takes 15 minutes to swap out.
$180? That can't be OEM.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:43 PM   #10
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Very much so as I concur with SamDoe1, roughly a $180.00 piece.
The mechanic that told you that you would only get codes if the SES Light was on is incorrect. The computer will store any fault code even if it only happens once and the Light goes out, the code(s) will be there until cleared. Wondering why you purchased a DISA but have not put it in yet, only held on by 2 screws and there is an electrical plug to undo, at best a 30 minute job (really should only take no more than 15 minutes). TO have ordered a new DISA, you must have suspected that it was bad some time ago, or taken it out and seen that the flap was broken. A broken DISA flap can easily cause what you are experiencing and depending on where the flap is stuck, the SES Light will come on and then can go out again with only slight movement of the broken flap.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:11 PM   #11
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Back in December I had these same codes. I never had them cleared because the research I found was the after so many start cycles they will clear. I ordered the DISA after researching that it could be a problem and it could have caused my codes. In Dec. I didn't have any rough idle, just the SES light. After I ordered the DISA, I found the cracked hose that fell apart in my hands near the secondary air pump. Replaced it and the light went out. Has not come on since then until this episode which included the rough idle after a 2 hour trip. I'm doing the DISA valve and inspection this weekend and will post the results. Currently my light is not on and the car is running perfect. This current issue has only happened once so far. I like the design of the G.A.S. version and that's why I bought it. I think all owners should get one if they can. Haven't had time until now to install it and its going in this weekend.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:50 AM   #12
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If the light is not on and the car is working fine then don't bother replacing the DISA. Just keep it on hand for when (not if) the valve poops out on you.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:25 PM   #13
meegs
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IMHO the disa valve is a super easy replacement and if it fails theres a metal pin that can get sucked up into the intake manifold and do major damage. If I had one laying around I would definitely just replace it as a precaution.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:58 AM   #14
SamDoe1
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IMHO the disa valve is a super easy replacement and if it fails theres a metal pin that can get sucked up into the intake manifold and do major damage. If I had one laying around I would definitely just replace it as a precaution.
The metal pin will not come flying out of a broken DISA valve until the valve is removed. As long as it is installed, it'll stay in place. Just be careful when you move it.

Also, the metal pin thing is somewhat blown out of proportion. It's really not that easy for it to come out of the housing.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:51 PM   #15
jrtsrt
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I'm doing it this Friday for sure. The instructions from G.A.S. are pretty detailed and warn you to be careful of the pin. Car is still running fine since with no SES light so far.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:47 PM   #16
jrtsrt
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OK, so I replaced the spark plugs which were due and started the DISA change process. The instructions from G.A.S. are very good and explain everything very well. This kit uses a metal flap with a titanium pin and pivot point. As I was trying to take apart the intake boot to get it out of the way, I broke the fitting that has the two ports with lines hooked up at the top of the upper boot. I read that this is a common issue and luckily my local BMW shop had one in stock. After I got the valve out of the intake manifold a chill went up my spine once I saw how worn it was. The valve was totally worn to the point that it was wobbling bad inside the frame. I couldn't even do the easy test of the vacuum pot it was so bad. I did the second option for testing the pot after the cover was off the valve lever assembly and it checked out okay. There is NO WAY that valve was functioning at all. I still have to put the new rebuilt one in tomorrow cause I ran out of time today due to running to the BMW shop to get a new vacuum fitting. Finishing it up in the morning.
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:01 PM   #17
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From what you just said, your DISA has not been working correctly for some time, always changing the intake air supply causing random misfires, poor/rough idle, possible shutting off at idle and poor performance on the highway and even misfires at highway speed. Not quite sure why you removed the Upper Intake Hose to remove the DISA, not really necessary to do, yes the one screw is partly hidden but can be seen and gotten to with out taking the hose off.

When ever taking the Upper Intake Hose off, first lube the area of the "F" connector and remove it from the Intake Hose, much easier and less chance of breaking than if you try to remove the Brake Booster Vacuum Hose and the other vacuum hose from the "F" connecter. Don't run the car without the new "F" connecter in place with the hoses connected as you will have a massive vacuum leak and if you drive it, you will not have good braking since there will be no vacuum to the brake booster.
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Old 03-29-2014, 04:52 PM   #18
jrtsrt
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Got the DISA done this morning, cleaned the MAF, and went for a test drive. Everything seems to be running great. I noticed the throttle seems to be more responsive and has a smoother take off. The throttle has more response at any speed, even at 80 mph. I would put $$$ on the fact that my old DISA is what caused my problem last week. I would bet that it temporarily stuck shut and almost caused the car to stall and lose power. My next project is to replace the Guibo and CSB. Already did both front CAB's and both front axles. I also reset my MPG monitor and am curious to see if my fuel economy goes up some. Maybe once I get my short list done with this car, I can start working on my '81 320i.
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Old 03-30-2014, 10:36 AM   #19
tomoyer
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A bad DISA cause many a problem, depending on where it is stuck, if it gets stuck and then moves a little and gets stuck again. Did you clear out the codes before running with new DISA installed? Just so if the SES Light comes on again, you know you will not be looking for those codes.
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