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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 04-14-2014, 12:05 PM   #1
phildobaggins
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Phildo's Secondary Air Pump Low Flow Error Tracker

Well I had 1 day without errors or issues. Last night I zip tied my secondary air pump down temporarily since the mounts are broke and I need at least a couple week away from car maintenance before I take another project. The clutch job burnt me out lol.

Today after about 2 min of driving I get a SES light. Pulled into work 30 minutes later, checked my odb2 bluetooth app. Got 2 codes, low flow on both banks for secondary air pump. I figure now that pump doesn't have much give in its mount that the outlet hose which was old and cracked probably tore under the rotation of the engine a bit. I'll check it over this week, troubleshoot and track my findings here.
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:16 AM   #2
phildobaggins
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Started with the output hose from the air pump. It looks old but intact. I decided to put some liquid electrical tape on the ends and check for signs of leaking air. It doesn't appear that is leaking at all.

During cold starts I can hear the pump come on for a minute or so, the fuse should be good.

My next stop will be to start checking vacuum lines and then the valve.

Fun stuff.
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:55 AM   #3
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It's usually the valve or the vacuum line.
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:25 PM   #4
phildobaggins
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vacuum line looks good but i've been tricked many a time.

I took out the pump, bracket, removed the temp zip ties and installed new rubber mounts.

cleared the codes and started cold, no errors this time. The code only started after the zip ties were in place, but then again that was only one day after getting the car back on the road.

I'll run a couple more days without making any changes and see if I get any codes.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:08 AM   #5
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Same p0491/2 errors this morning. I also noticed a lack of pump noise this morning, then the SES came on. I'm going to start looking at the entire vacuum run just to be sure but with the lack of noise today i'm thinking the connection need to be cleaned and fuse needs to be checked.

This car gives me a lot to chew on, i love it.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:52 PM   #6
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Verify the air blowing into the exhaust manifold is getting through the vac controlled valve. Is the large hose going from the valve to the manifold squishy when the SAP is running? If the hose is firm, the valve isn't opening. Until repaired, disconnect the hose at the manifold to allow air to blow out and not restrict the pump. Check for vac on the small hose end that operates the diaphragm valve. No vac present when the SAP is cycled on? Check the vac line along the passenger valve cover edge. Lastly, inspect the lines and operation of the hidden (drivers side behind the engine) electrically operated vac switch. That's all there is to the system. Either the motor doesn't spin, the vac control line doesn't suck or the valve sticks and won't allow air through.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:32 AM   #7
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Someone post the link to the bavauto SAP troubleshooting guide...should be a simple fix no need for a tracker thread.

Vacuum gauge is key.
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:46 PM   #8
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I have read over the guide but i'm just winging it. More of a learning experience just like my clutch replacement and the other crap i've worked on.

Today I verified the valve opens and the pump is pumping air. I'll move along to verify the valve opens, pumps and closes tomorrow morning. Tomorrow night i'll pump the check valve and verify the valve opens. Then start tracing out the vacuum line to the vacuum controller and verify its not leaking.

I thought I slightly felt some cooler air around the valve as if the hose was slightly leaking but it was hard to tell with nitril on. I'll just replace the hoses anyways during this process.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:26 AM   #9
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Pressure hose from air pump to valve = 1"

vacuum line from check valve to controller = 9/64" or 3.5mm

I got busy this week with being on-call but tomorrow i'm hitting auto zone for some new lines and i'll check the valve with my mighty vac.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:03 PM   #10
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As dumb as this seems, if you are getting a code(s) for low secondary air pump air, its probably only the filter in the secondary air pump that is clogged or bad. Two types were used; some used a foam filter and some used a paper filter. Where is the filter located? If you look closely at the top of your secondary air pump, you will see the raised area and what appears to be 2 notch and prongs. These are indeed the "catches" that hold that top onto the secondary air pump. You will have to use a thin, flat blade screwer driver to carefully release the clips, and remove the top. You will find the filter right there; if its a paper one, you will soon see if it is clogged and discolored, if its the foam one, you will see dirt on it, BUT do not try to clean it with soap and water or even an air hose as it will disintegrate right before your eyes. New filters can be gotten from the dealer OR you can make your own. At home improvement stores like The Home Depot, they sell rectangular mesh filter sheets that fit inside heat registers. You can fashion a 2 layer filter to fit from this material and it will work just fine. And since that material comes several to a package, you will have enough to do several filter changes. Typically, if the secondary air pump is running each time you start the car for 1 to 5 minutes, then the pump, the controller and the vacuum line from the controller in the wire harness at the lower edge of the cylinder head, around the back of the head to the rear of the intake manifold should be ok. THe vacuum line is plastic except for short pieces of hose at the intake connection and the secondary air pump controller connection.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:35 PM   #11
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I have filter media already. I could make my own if thats the prob. i'll check that out along the way.

My initial concern with the vacuum lines is due to the weeks of tilting the motor back many hundreds of times during the clutch work. I havent looked at the entire vacuum run so it maybe a unneeded fear, but i'm guessing I have cracked the line/tore it slightly from all the movement. I did not have the error prior to the engine/clutch work. The error came on as soon as the car was buttoned up and started.

But again, i'll check the filter as part of my troubleshooting anyways
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:17 PM   #12
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Disconnect the little vac line to the valve and blow in it. If it hisses you have a line leak. If your cheeks puff out it's fine. You need to see if the 12V vac switch mounted (but hidden) behind the drivers side, rear engine corner is working? The wire connector may be off or loose? The vac supply line to the switch may be off? This is really a simple deal here review post #6. The filter is not the problem. Is there vac present at the diaphragm valve when the pump is on? If not, chase the 12V vac switch and small vac lines. If the lower "air" (pump output) hose is firm when vac is applied to the valve, the valve is stuck closed. If you can blow freely through the air output hose (to the valve) after the pump shuts down (vac is not present at the valve), the valve is stuck open.

Again, it's either the valve or vac supply. Check this>> http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=809715
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:57 PM   #13
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Coolness, this is pretty much all stuff I have found/researched/discovered before.

Tonight I didnt make it to autozone to get some new tubing. but I did want to take a look at the filter. It was pretty close to a solid non porous mass. I made a new filter from media that I have used to cover up some routers/switches/firewalls in construction environments with some success.

I totally agree its the vac supply. In fact I would bet money that the check valve line has a vac leak and its just causing the valve not to operate properly.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:58 AM   #14
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Got a dog last week so I haven't touched the car. Restarting this weekend. Going to trace out vacuum lines and replace the check valve line and high pressure hose.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:31 AM   #15
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Fvck the car, Pics of dog.

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Old 05-02-2014, 02:38 PM   #16
phildobaggins
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Black lab retreiver. Female, 65lbs. 4.5 years old.
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:07 PM   #17
phildobaggins
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Adding this for later shopping:

Intake vacuum lines that need replacement

From F connector on top of intake:

2 feet bulk vac 3/8" ID
6 feet winshield washer and vac tube 5/32" ID
Vacuum caps assorted

---------------------

Pressure hose from air pump to valve = 1"

vacuum line from check valve to controller = 9/64" or 3.5mm

Last edited by phildobaggins; 05-02-2014 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phildobaggins View Post
Black lab retreiver. Female, 65lbs. 4.5 years old.
Rescue dog? Looks great, teach her to fetch stuff. Tennis ball, ducks, pheasants, beer, etc.
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:52 PM   #19
phildobaggins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
Rescue dog? Looks great, teach her to fetch stuff. Tennis ball, ducks, pheasants, beer, etc.
She lived in the shelter for the past few years.

She is perfectly house broke, mild mannered, doesnt bark and is polite when the wife and I eat human food.

She doesnt know how to play with toys. She doesnt fetch.

Right now I am leash training her, after a week she has greatly improved. She only responds with a pinch collar, even treats wont slow her down. Once we get walking down, we will work on getting her more exercise daily (I can only walk her like .5 mile before my shoulder wants to blow out from all the dog torque).

Then we will work on toys and commands.
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:57 PM   #20
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She's a lab which means she'll pick up fetch in a matter of hours...which will be the both the best and worst thing (best because it's a good way to tire her our, worst because your arm will tire before she will). Make sure you get a tennis ball thrower.

Not sure if you've had dogs before or not but the best way to teach leash training is walk and if she pulls stop right there and refuse to move until she stops. Labs are smart and will figure that out really fast. If that fails then look into a gentle leader.

Dogs are the best and I wouldn't be upset if this thread turned into one about your dog. SAP is easy, dog is not.

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