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Old 05-06-2014, 12:23 AM   #41
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WOW! so basically you are making 490whp on 6-7 psi not considering that overboost situation? You will make 500whp+ easy at 9pounds
Yes, you are correct
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:12 AM   #42
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Ya Kris you definitely need to increase your gain settings on your boost controller.

Also what is your wideband reading for AFR after 5k on a pull? I'm reading that graph as being > 12:1
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:23 PM   #43
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How does your exhaust sound now with the turbo? Does it still have a lot of drone? Also, do you feel like you had more low end power with the supercharger instead of the turbo?
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:50 PM   #44
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Ya Kris you definitely need to increase your gain settings on your boost controller.

Also what is your wideband reading for AFR after 5k on a pull? I'm reading that graph as being > 12:1
The issue will be worked out this week. It's a simple fix. The AFR is at 12:4 at 5k and goes to 11:25 at 8k. So mid 12's for AFR throughout the RPM band.

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Originally Posted by XKR View Post
How does your exhaust sound now with the turbo? Does it still have a lot of drone? Also, do you feel like you had more low end power with the supercharger instead of the turbo?
The turbo is essentially a resonator. It kills a lot of the drone and you'd swear you're running an OEM-like system until you really get on it. It sounds loud from the outside, though. With the cutout open, it's stupid loud and droney haha.

The feeling is better than a supercharger mainly because of the HUGE torque gain. The car just keeps pulling and never wants to stop whereas with a supercharger, you can feel it working all it's might to keep power consistent above 6k or so. I should have gone turbo ages ago.
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:58 PM   #45
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I think you should probably have a closer look at the AFR's...12.4 is pretty lean.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:03 PM   #46
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I think you should probably have a closer look at the AFR's...12.4 is pretty lean.
I sent all the info to Mike and he said everything looks normal. The numbers should balance out after I get this boost issue sorted. Where do you think the AFR's should be?

Also (I forgot to mention this), I did pulls on a 1/4 tank. These cars are known to suck air with anything below 1/2 full. This could be the cause of running lean.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:43 PM   #47
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I personally run between 10.5-11.0

I know 11.5 is usually the guidline but 12's...that's getting sketchy.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:42 PM   #48
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I see nobody else has given the explanation in here, so...

With respect to the BOV location, you are correct it cannot be after the MAF. This because of the same reason you can't run a BOV at all on a stock setup - the MAF has already accounted for the air which has passed by it, which has now been dumped into the atmosphere. This would cause a severe rich condition for a period after you've closed the throttle.

As far as AFR values, this entirely depends upon how aggressive the timing table is. 10.5:1 will not save you if the timing is too aggressive. 11.5 - 12.3 is safe, with 11s being on the more conservative side. In my opinion the setup will be fine once the overboost situation is resolved.
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:53 PM   #49
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12.3 is fine at that boost level.

Wait, have you felt the power of race gas yet?!
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:22 AM   #50
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12.3 is fine at that boost level.

Wait, have you felt the power of race gas yet?!
I will this weekend

Dyno pulls will be done soon I promise and I'll update this thread accordingly.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:43 AM   #51
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Ohh man, I'm excited for you.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:04 PM   #52
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I talked to Kris about the boost controller settings. 11 psi is too much boost on pump gas, however it will be in check with the eboost tweaking.

Regarding the afr, we target 11.7 in the midrange and it will get into the low 12's at redline. There are a bunch of things that could affect afr readings on a chassis Dyno. When you have a open exhaust cutout upstream of the Dyno sensor you will have a skewed afr reading at the tailpipe. How old is the Dyno sensor? What is the probe setup? The best bet would be to verify the in-car wideband on the street. Have a buddy video the boost, afr, and rpm.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:07 PM   #53
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Another thing worth mentioning: yes, the car picked up big power with the cutout open, but the boost went up as well. If boost is equal I bet it would be no difference in power over your 3.5" race exhaust, especially at pump gas boost levels. The nice thing is that at 9psi the car should be at 500+.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:10 PM   #54
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I talked to Kris about the boost controller settings. 11 psi is too much boost on pump gas, however it will be in check with the eboost tweaking.

Regarding the afr, we target 11.7 in the midrange and it will get into the low 12's at redline. There are a bunch of things that could affect afr readings on a chassis Dyno. When you have a open exhaust cutout upstream of the Dyno sensor you will have a skewed afr reading at the tailpipe. How old is the Dyno sensor? What is the probe setup? The best bet would be to verify the in-car wideband on the street. Have a buddy video the boost, afr, and rpm.
The dyno sensor works fine on other cars, so that isn't the issue. The sensor gets placed into the bung where the AFR gauge gets it's readings from. This is before the dump valve.

My AEM AFR sensor took a crap on me, so I am waiting for that to be fixed.

Quote:
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Another thing worth mentioning: yes, the car picked up big power with the cutout open, but the boost went up as well. If boost is equal I bet it would be no difference in power over your 3.5" race exhaust, especially at pump gas boost levels. The nice thing is that at 9psi the car should be at 500+.
I am super excited to be above 500rwhp on pump gas!!! Maybe even ~20lbs+ in torque too?
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:24 AM   #55
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Just received my stage 2 SMG the other day. The car has not stalled on me once. Once car is up to operating temp the idle stays rock solid. Until warm up I get loopy idle for a 1 min or so until vehicle finds its right calibration. I have the SMG with a UUC Twin disc organic, shifts are extremely fast and smooth almost stock like. As far as AFRs under boost I am around 12 or below I have never seen it go above 12.5. Will be putting in some race gas to see how that feels this weekend. Maximum PSI is the way to go.

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Old 05-08-2014, 09:05 PM   #56
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Just received my stage 2 SMG the other day. The car has not stalled on me once. Once car is up to operating temp the idle stays rock solid. Until warm up I get loopy idle for a 1 min or so until vehicle finds its right calibration. I have the SMG with a UUC Twin disc organic, shifts are extremely fast and smooth almost stock like. As far as AFRs under boost I am around 12 or below I have never seen it go above 12.5. Will be putting in some race gas to see how that feels this weekend. Maximum PSI is the way to go.
Congratulations!!! How is the chatter in 1st and 2nd gear from a stop? I am thinking about getting rid of my HPF Stage 2 clutch cause it's super annoying.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:47 PM   #57
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Congratulations!!! How is the chatter in 1st and 2nd gear from a stop? I am thinking about getting rid of my HPF Stage 2 clutch cause it's super annoying.

What do you mean by "chatter in 1st & 2nd gear from a stop" ? This sounds different from the typical "chatter" while sitting at a traffic light with the A/C on, could you elaborate.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:03 PM   #58
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What do you mean by "chatter in 1st & 2nd gear from a stop" ? This sounds different from the typical "chatter" while sitting at a traffic light with the A/C on, could you elaborate.
Like when you're starting off from a stop or cruising slowly through a parking lot at a low RPM, does the clutch feel sticky or that it isn't engaging quickly? Basically, does it feel different than OEM?
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:20 PM   #59
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Like when you're starting off from a stop or cruising slowly through a parking lot at a low RPM, does the clutch feel sticky or that it isn't engaging quickly? Basically, does it feel different than OEM?

I ask this question thinking I must be foolish for even asking it: You did remove that little "piece" in the clutch line ? I think it's called a clutch delay valve (CDV).

Anyway I've been running the UUC Twin Organic for a few years now, there's very little, to almost no "chatter" while idling at a light. I do run the UUC recommended trans fluid "cocktail" blend, which helps that. The chatter you speak of in 1st & 2nd gear, well I've never experienced that. I will say that the Twin Organic is firmer than my stock clutch feel, but keep in mind I'm comparing it to a Non M 330Ci. I'd recommend this clutch to you without any hesitation, I'm certain Mike at Max. PSI runs them in a few of his cars.
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:49 AM   #60
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Congratulations!!! How is the chatter in 1st and 2nd gear from a stop? I am thinking about getting rid of my HPF Stage 2 clutch cause it's super annoying.

Thanks, no feels great for me. Almost OEM like except it grabs firmer from stop.
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