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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 07-07-2007, 12:28 AM   #201
Rotha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommiexboi View Post
????????

every window has a window regulator and a motor (driver, passenger, both rear windows)
ohh no no no im just diagnosing faults.

I think the window that doesn't make any sound at all, has a bad motor,

and the window that does make sound but no movement has a bad regulator.

i suppose ill replace the regulator on the bad motor too for preventative reasons.

So do you think it is a broken motor if there is no sound of the usual, motor whirr when rolling up and down windows?
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:39 AM   #202
MileHighBeemer
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Unhappy Window Regulator on 2002 330ci coupe convertible passenger side - need help please

Hi. I've read through all the wonderful instructions here, but I'm still stumped on how to change the window regulator for my coupe.

1st - I have side airbags. I've read that you need to disconnect the negative side of the battery. I can't even find my battery. I see the positive cable connection, but can't find the negative or the battery itself. (Yes, I'm a novice and it's the first time I've looked under the hood). Also, I've read that disconnecting the battery improperly can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Any tips on how to avoid this?

2nd - My door looks alot different than the ones in the photos. It's obviously long, but the mouldings looks different also. How many screws am I looking for on this type of door and where should I be looking exactly? I haven't removed the panel yet because I'm worried about the airbag (see #1).

3rd - I've purchased the part ($149 including tax). I assume it was more expensive because it's a coupe instead of a sedan. Will the screws & procedure be the same as described, or are there nuances since it is a coupe?

4th - Since it has a convertible top, there is no framework over the top of the window. The instructions said to tape the window up to the frame while you are working on it so they glass won't slam down. I have nothing to tape it to when the door is opened. Suggestions?

Basically, I'm hoping somebody out there has done a replacement on a coupe and even better if it was a convertible - 2002, 330cic. My stomach hurts just thinking about this procedure and I'm hoping there is somebody out there who can walk me through.
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Old 07-19-2007, 05:12 PM   #203
pcdsl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHighBeemer View Post
Hi. I've read through all the wonderful instructions here, but I'm still stumped on how to change the window regulator for my coupe.

1st - I have side airbags. I've read that you need to disconnect the negative side of the battery. I can't even find my battery. I see the positive cable connection, but can't find the negative or the battery itself. (Yes, I'm a novice and it's the first time I've looked under the hood). Also, I've read that disconnecting the battery improperly can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Any tips on how to avoid this?

The battery is in your trunk. Look to the right side, and you'll see a plastic cover with 2 plastic screws. The battery is under there. The plastic screws are not your typical screws, just turn it 1/4 clockwise or counter, and pull up. Then lift up the plastic cover and you'll see the battery.

2nd - My door looks alot different than the ones in the photos. It's obviously long, but the mouldings looks different also. How many screws am I looking for on this type of door and where should I be looking exactly? I haven't removed the panel yet because I'm worried about the airbag (see #1).

I'm not sure how much the coupe differed from the sedan doors. But just remove the trim, under there are some screws and there are clips under the door handle you should remove (the clips cover the screws). When all the screws are removed you can start removing the door planel. It's held in by clips. Carefully work your way around the door. Don't pull too hard, there are wires attached that you have to disconnect.

3rd - I've purchased the part ($149 including tax). I assume it was more expensive because it's a coupe instead of a sedan. Will the screws & procedure be the same as described, or are there nuances since it is a coupe?

might have been cheaper from Tischer BMW

4th - Since it has a convertible top, there is no framework over the top of the window. The instructions said to tape the window up to the frame while you are working on it so they glass won't slam down. I have nothing to tape it to when the door is opened. Suggestions?

Tape the bottom of the window to the top of your door. From my experience, the window was pretty stiff and didn't really move, but you should tape it some how to be safe. Or, have someone hold it. But the tape should hold.

Basically, I'm hoping somebody out there has done a replacement on a coupe and even better if it was a convertible - 2002, 330cic. My stomach hurts just thinking about this procedure and I'm hoping there is somebody out there who can walk me through.
Good luck!
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Old 08-03-2007, 04:41 AM   #204
aaae46
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Just installed a new window regulator on my 03 330i. The DIY was awesome. I did look over that one screw underneath the window switch also. But, I was able to do everything perfectly.

After the install my auto up/auto down did not work. I found this on bmwtips on thought it would be helpful because I did not see it posted in any other thread on this forum:

"June 2003 - Jae Lee

After replacing your window regulators, your Auto Lowering/Raising functions for your window might not work.

Here is the reprogramming procedures.

Activating Automatic Lowering Function:
1. Turn Key to 1
2. Lower your window fully (manually)
3. Hold on to it for 30 seconds.
4. Done

Activating Automatic Raising Functions:
1. Turn Key to 1
2. Raise your window fully (manually)
3. Hold on to it for 30 seconds.
4. Done

Hope this helps~

Jae Lee"

I followed those instructions and the auto up/auto down on my new window regulator works normally.

Thanks again guys.

John-
(AAAE46)
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:17 AM   #205
Craig325xia
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Great write up

I'm glad I researched this here first before paying the Dealer $350 - $400 to do it! I could have got the part online for about $85 shipped, but got it from the Dealer for $107 same day and was done in 30 - 45minutes total.

I know the other 3 windows will eventually fail, but strange and oddly enough, I'm looking forward to knowing I can fix them myself

-Craig
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Old 09-13-2007, 09:05 PM   #206
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tommiexboi

I just wanted to thank you for the thread, I just changed mine 105 from dealer. I need my tints changed, when it broke the cable scratched up alot.
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Old 09-14-2007, 05:50 PM   #207
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no problem guys!!!!!

MODS STICKY THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-14-2007, 06:33 PM   #208
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instead of starting a new thread...

Something broke, I hit the switch for the window to go up and I hear something break. At first it sound like a cable or something whipping around, now when I hit the switch I hear nothing. I can pull the window up with my hands but it drops a little after driving.

So do I need a window regulator?

thanks for this DIY and the many others!
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Old 09-14-2007, 07:03 PM   #209
gixxertricks
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yep, the cable broke then spooled around the wheel. $100 do it yourself
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:21 PM   #210
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is this what I need?
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:51 PM   #211
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yes what window was it...the rear passenger?
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Old 09-15-2007, 02:11 PM   #212
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yes what window was it...the rear passenger?
yes, how did you know?! witch!!

just kidding, thanks for the help, will order part.
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Old 09-16-2007, 12:49 PM   #213
kattanapilot
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Originally Posted by Max_iDT View Post
yes, how did you know?! witch!!

just kidding, thanks for the help, will order part.
I just did mine, If you ever play with legos as a kid, you can do this!!!
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Old 09-16-2007, 02:26 PM   #214
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pretty much. its pretty simple. just be careful with the window if you have tint. you dont want to scratch it. if you dont you can slam it around quite a bit, its a pretty strong piece of glass lol. the rear pass is the number one failed part in our cars. this wont be the last time you do it if you keep using it and dont sell your car. the car is worth the money.
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Old 09-16-2007, 07:50 PM   #215
mickey513
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OEM Window regulator parts....cheaper than aftermarket....

http://catalog.alloembmwparts.com/?y..._button23.y=10

Just change the year to reflect yours
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Old 09-19-2007, 05:43 PM   #216
jane_jetson00
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Does anyone have any opinions about purchasing OE (BMW-manufactured) window regulators vs. a 3rd party manufacturer? Thanks.
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Old 09-20-2007, 03:17 PM   #217
nickdeck
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I've wondered that myself. I don't see how a 3rd party regulator could be any worse than what BMW sells us. I think I'll try one of there next time:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/index.asp?...OD&ProdID=2106
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Old 09-21-2007, 03:53 AM   #218
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I have used 3rd party regulators and BMW OEM regulators....

There is practically no difference to 3rd party and BMW OEM on looks and such, however I noticed that the BMW OEM regulators goes went out more than the 3rd party regulators. But it might just be coincidence... Right now I have to order the driver side regulator also.... been driving with painters tape on the windows lol
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Old 09-29-2007, 06:56 PM   #219
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My rear driver side finally went this week. Was going to replace it myself, part was a little more then a $100 at the stealer but I found a place that replaced it for me part & labor for $160. Not too bad i guess considering the part is a little more then a $100 already....
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Old 09-30-2007, 12:49 AM   #220
Rotha
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My rear driver side finally went this week. Was going to replace it myself, part was a little more then a $100 at the stealer but I found a place that replaced it for me part & labor for $160. Not too bad i guess considering the part is a little more then a $100 already....
lol there was some site on google that sold them for 40 dollars.

pffft lol
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