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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-06-2004, 01:25 PM   #61
deepu74
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tommiexboi328i, thanks for the write up! I replaced my regulator yesterday and it was worth every penny both costwise and the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
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Old 08-25-2004, 03:57 PM   #62
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Has anyone looked at their piece to determine what the cause of fault is? Is it different every time? I'm just wondering if perhaps its the same thing every time (i.e. the plastic piece).

Matt
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Old 08-25-2004, 05:31 PM   #63
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Question

I hear a click about 1/4 way down on my drivers side, is this a good indication it might fail or just require the "plastic piece" instead of the whole lot (regulator?)
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Old 08-25-2004, 05:34 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattdogg
Has anyone looked at their piece to determine what the cause of fault is? Is it different every time? I'm just wondering if perhaps its the same thing every time (i.e. the plastic piece).

Matt
I'm guessing (and hoping) that the plastic clip that connects window carrier to the cable is the primary failure. Perhaps once this goes, further usage of the window causes other things to fail. I have heard of and seen pictures of lots of different reg failures including broken pulleys, broken cables, brokem clips connecting window to window carrier, etc. I tihnk THe whole metchanism is 1 big cluster. But, i'm hoping that the carrier to cable clip is the the main thing that sets everything else in motion.
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Old 08-30-2004, 09:21 PM   #65
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Just replaced mine today, I think a little plastic peice broke of the plastic spool because the Cable was wrapped around it and all messed up. Everything was easy except for the damm little bolt that attached the window to the track mine was a b*tch to get off soooooo tight
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:51 AM   #66
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I can't seem to get the door panel off,... I took off the myrtle wood panel.
Then, took out the 2 screws.
then, took off 2 tabs under the arm rest.
then, toof off 2 screws that was in the 2 tabs.

Are there any other screws that need to be taken off?
this is for a 328i 99'

Thanks all!
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:55 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhelp
I can't seem to get the door panel off,... I took off the myrtle wood panel.
Then, took out the 2 screws.
then, took off 2 tabs under the arm rest.
then, toof off 2 screws that was in the 2 tabs.

Are there any other screws that need to be taken off?
this is for a 328i 99'

Thanks all!
There is one more screw behind the power window switch (I assume you are talking about the rear but I am sure there is one in the front too)
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:10 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Staszek
There is one more screw behind the power window switch (I assume you are talking about the rear but I am sure there is one in the front too)
yes, talking about the rear right one.
I figured it would be behind the power window switch.
but, I can't seem to take it off,... I was using a screw driver but looks like it's about to break the power window switch when I pull it up.
any recommendations on how to take it off gently?

Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:12 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhelp
yes, talking about the rear right one.
I figured it would be behind the power window switch.
but, I can't seem to take it off,... I was using a screw driver but looks like it's about to break the power window switch when I pull it up.
any recommendations on how to take it off gently?

Thanks!

I put 2 real thin screw drivers on each side, its kind of spring loaded in there, if you get both sides up a but you should be able to pull it up with your hand. When I say sides I mean front and back of the switch not left and right side.
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:36 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Staszek
I put 2 real thin screw drivers on each side, its kind of spring loaded in there, if you get both sides up a but you should be able to pull it up with your hand. When I say sides I mean front and back of the switch not left and right side.
thanks!
Also, did you guys accidentally damage your leather panel?
looks like i try to be very careful but it's hard to not damage any of the leather panel. the screwdriver damages the leather panel when I try to take off the window controler.
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Old 11-13-2004, 03:56 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommiexboi328i
Finished time 30 min - 1 hr Torx Screw driver set ... and some other tools (forgot what its called) lol
1. Open your door
- IF YOU CAN, OPEN THE WINDOW ABOUT MIDWAY
2. take the interior trim off with a screw driver .. but be gentle!

i give it a 5 on hardness level..

tom,

this post was VERY HELPFUL. i didn't have to replace a win regulator but needed to fix a dealer mishap. my dealer replaced my win reg. the other day and in doing so, the midrange speaker wire harness was left loose. i heard static everytime the door was opened and closed. prob fixed now.

THANKS
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Old 11-19-2004, 09:01 PM   #72
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no problem man... =)

sorry for not reading this thread that much... but if you guys have anymore questions just email me at kpxtl@hotmail.com =)
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Old 11-22-2004, 06:31 AM   #73
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I replaced the driver's front. Looks like someone has been in the door before, because the vapor barrier had a small tear and the top clips were bent down and not even used!! If you want something done right....
Couple additional tips to Tommie's great DIY for front windows:
- remove negative battery cable before messing with the airbag.
- the airbag is above the vapor barrier. Remove the 3 10mm bolts and just hang it out of the way (I used a tie wrap).
- the front regulator consists of two verticle rails vs. the single verticle rail for the back.
- have the top of the window elevated 51/2" above the door to access the two window retaining bolts that tie the wondow clips to the regulator rail. They are 8 mm bolts, the extension actually goes THROUGH openenings in the rail to loosen them.
- Just loosen the window retaining bolts. Then lift the window all the way up and tape or wedge it in the full-up position to get it out of the way.
- with the motor removed, it's easy to work the two rails (they're connected via cables) out of the door. 2 nuts hold the rear rail to the door while the front rail has 3 nuts.

Took me 2 hours taking my time and checking everything twice. I could (and will) do the next one in 30 minutes. The stealership charges 2 hours/widow!!!

Side note: Yes, it's a common-fail item. But German engineering is awesome! I've worked on almost every car under the sun, and BMW has two thumbs-up from me for ease of maintenance. Filter location, oil changes, brake pad and rotor changes, and now regulators... everything on both my BMW's so far has both american and Japanese engineering beat!
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:50 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by tommiexboi
hahaha ... awesome... i have 3 spare ones in my garage haha
is there difference right side and left? and front and real?
I have passanger side regulater and I might need for driver side.
thanks

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Old 11-23-2004, 12:49 PM   #75
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well the front's are a different than the back.... when you order u have to make sure you get the right part ie. passenger front, driver front, driverside back, passenger side back, etc.
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:08 PM   #76
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thanks.
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Old 01-15-2005, 05:03 PM   #77
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good DIY did mine this weekend
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Old 02-06-2005, 11:14 AM   #78
Torquewrench
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Did mine, thanks Tommie

This is the first maintenance I've done on the car, a 2001 330i. My warranty just ran out in December 04 and then the rear passenger window went. My wife thought she'd broken the window!

Anyway, ordered the part, got it next day, and did installed it the following weekend.

One note to add the the DIY, the butel "tape" has the consistency of thick chewing gum, in a lot of places it could be carefully peeled away from the sheetmetal, in others it stuck more tenaciously. When reinstalling the vapor barrier just massage it in and it will readhere. In my opinion you don't need to add any additional adhesive or other material.

Also, be careful with the two slits in the top of the moisture barrier where the door release cable and wires come through. The wires in my case extended the slit slightly, so just have care.

A big thanks to everyone, I wouldn't have tackled this without the instructions. I wish I had my digital camera to add to the DIY, but it is packed up with my stuff in storage!
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Old 02-06-2005, 08:08 PM   #79
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OK..I heard the menacing LOUD CLICKS OF DEATH on the DS of mine today ( I know what it sounds like cause I had the pass side done under warranty). I really want to try this..but I am a chicken-sh*t about it..ONLY because of the hard to see photo in Tommie's original write up AND the fact that mine's the front and not the rear..

So maybe there is a "coach" out there (someone within central NJ driving distance for example) who wouldn't mind providing a little additional support..? I'm willing to drive to you or (since I have a nice warm garage) pay you expenses to come to me in Metuchen..

Don't want you to do the work..just need a friend close by cause I KNOW I'm gonna get in trouble...

Any/all suggestions or proposals welcome..ping me here or (better yet) edwardc3000@yahoo.com.

Thanks !

ED in Metuchen

Last edited by edco; 02-06-2005 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 03-08-2005, 03:15 AM   #80
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the front's are easier in my opinion.... u should actually try it yourself man, i was 18 at the time i was doing it... didn't know ne thing about cars, and had no clue on what i was doing.. but im a pro now hahha
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