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E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 06-16-2017, 10:13 AM   #1
2000e46vert
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CVM failure?

Ok, when it comes to the top, I feel like anything that goes wrong with it is something I should be able to fix, given enough time.

I replaced the hydro pump a few months ago, and the top was working, until it didn't lol. I haven't gotten my computer communicating with PA Soft yet, but I had it in to my local independent shop to fix something that was beyond my capabilities, and they were kind enough to do some diagnosing free of charge.

I will get a better understanding when I pick it up, but they seem to think there is a failure of one of the latches that meets the top of the windshield. Now, the top will open/close manually, So I know that the latches themselves are ok.

Is it possible there is wiring to those latches that has failed?

How often does the motor that controls those matches fail?

Is it possible the CVM has failed? (actually I would hope this would be the culprit as I find it the easiest to access)

Any hints where I should look. My brother-in-law will come and get the PA Soft running for me since he is an IT guy, but any direction would help.

The windows at this point drop when either button is pushed, but that's about it.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:19 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000e46vert View Post
Is it possible there is wiring to those latches that has failed?
Not only possible, but rather common. When my top failed to fully close, I opened the harness at the bend point and found the GREEN wire to be severed. I spliced in a new section and it's been fine ever since.

In the video, the owner indicates that he removes the clip. I found that with a little effort, the clip could slide down the harness. If you do not have a soldering iron, go to Harbor Freight and buy one. Carefully use it to melt an opening in the harness. If you use scissors, you'll just butcher the sheathing.

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Old 06-16-2017, 11:21 AM   #3
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As for PA Soft, I could not get it to install the USB Drivers in Windows 7 64-bit. It did install and work fine on a Gateway Windows XP laptop.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:37 AM   #4
2000e46vert
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I guess I can look at the wiring at that bend. A few months ago when the pump was bad, the wiring at that bend wasn't the issue.

At this point the motor in the roof that releases and closes the latches to the windshield doesn't do anything. Depending on what you read, when the red light is flashing on the buttons, that could stop any/all top operation. When I can get the car back in the garage (had the driveway resealed), I may open up the wiring at that bend to see if anything needs to be repaired, which I have no problem doing.

I didn't think that would be it, only because back in January it was ok, but who knows.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:46 PM   #5
Archbid
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You really need diagnostic software to do this. I tried to do it without and it is too hard.


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Old 06-16-2017, 02:45 PM   #6
2000e46vert
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One thing I haven't done is release the top from the windshield and try the button to see if it tries to open the top. I know from completely closed or open it does nothing, but I never checked to see if anything happens when the top is already at the halfway mark. It will probably do nothing, but I won't know if I don't try.
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:44 PM   #7
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2000 The advice i would give to you is before you touch anything get the codes first. I tried to do it without it by looking for a broken wire and following the directions in the diy section and it said to test for continuity, well i cut the wires open tested toward the front locks and did not have not have continuity yet someone responded to my post that they also did not have continuity yet theres worked fine. So something is fishy somewhere. I stopped all attempts to trouble shoot until i get the code reader in the mail.
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Old 06-17-2017, 04:24 PM   #8
2000e46vert
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Just went out and manually released the top from the windshield. With it pushed up that first 6 inches it does nothing when the open button is pushed [I]but[I] when the close button was pushed it pulled itself down and latched itself to the windshield, so there is some operation there. I also hear the motor (under the seat) and the tonneau latches intermittently go on/off if I hold the button. That stops after about 4 clicks, and if I release and press the close button again, it does the latch clicking again then stops.

So I know from this that the motor for the windshield latches is getting power and still operates.

If my brother-in-law comes over tomorrow I'll see if he can get my computer to jive with PASoft.

Other than that, w/o reading codes, I am open to suggestions.
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Old 06-17-2017, 09:07 PM   #9
Yo Adrian
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2000 When you first hit the button does the latches move at all? That is without assist?
Vert I just ran across one of your post dated back since February, have you been dealing with this top since then?

Last edited by Yo Adrian; 06-17-2017 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 06-17-2017, 10:51 PM   #10
2000e46vert
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The top didn't work back in Jan, and it was the hydro pump. Replaced that myself with a rebuilt by Top Hydraulics. Top worked for a bit, then one day while driving with the top down I heard the latch click, and the red light started flashing. Not exactly sure when that was, but this is not my primary car, and it was winter, so I'm just now trying to sort it out.

Right now, when the top is closed and I hit the open button, I get nothing. It was just today that I tried opening it to the point where it is about 6 inches from the windshield, nothing with the open button, but with the close button it pulled itself down and latched, but once it did that, the rear latches still made noises like it was cycling through lock/unlock.
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Old 06-18-2017, 12:09 AM   #11
Yo Adrian
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have you checked the bowden cables under the rear seats? I just replaced the ones on this car or it can be that center motor not engaging the cables look here...http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...motor+clicking.
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:39 AM   #12
2000e46vert
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Yes, I actually replaced one of the Bowden cables that was frayed. While I do not believe the flap motor was bad, I did replace it since it was cheap and easy.

The motor engages, and seems to move as it should, it just doesn't stop as it should when the open/close sequence is complete, so I'm not sure what is going on, which would likely be short work once I read the codes.
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