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Old 07-21-2014, 01:51 PM   #1
nek0
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Perfect motor build

I know a lot of you guys have been down this road some more than once... im in the process of building mine can someone point me in the right direction in what way to go ?

Id like to keep the same compression ratio as stock but just be at 1000 whp at the minimum =D

I may be asking for a little to much, but id love to see what you guys have in mind

kinda feel like this platform is limited at a certain amount of power, prob would be best to move to a different platform but id love to see options
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:16 PM   #2
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Problem with our cars and 1k is putting it down... Even with my wide body and Toyo r888 335's the car spins tires at highest boost level without a problem (1070 whp)
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:58 PM   #3
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Needs more sidewall Tom
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:44 AM   #4
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Needs more sidewall Tom
Or a little bit more of everything!



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Old 07-22-2014, 12:45 AM   #5
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Problem with our cars and 1k is putting it down... Even with my wide body and Toyo r888 335's the car spins tires at highest boost level without a problem (1070 whp)
No biggie I don't mind spinning I'm just looking to build my motor lol... Plus the traction control with pro efi makes power much more useful


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Needs more sidewall Tom
What's your exact motor build setup?
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:12 AM   #6
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Problem with our cars and 1k is putting it down... Even with my wide body and Toyo r888 335's the car spins tires at highest boost level without a problem (1070 whp)
R888's didn't cut it for me after the built engine. Go the A6 route for street, they're a league higher.

And yes, aim for more sidewall.
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:57 PM   #7
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What do you get for Mileage out of a6's? lol
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:19 PM   #8
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Normal street driving the A6 or the R6 will go roughly 7k-12k miles.
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:38 PM   #9
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is this a tire thread or a "how should I build the perfect engine" thread?

I'm interested to see what people say about this too as I will be building mine in a couple years

and PEI330CI wins for using the biggest rubber.... Magnums haha
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Old 07-24-2014, 12:22 AM   #10
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grrr kinda frustrated how this turned into wheres the traction thread... can we get back to the main topic and to the people who have built motors please in detail explain whats done!
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Old 07-24-2014, 12:36 AM   #11
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Search button. Tons of motor builds on here
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:21 AM   #12
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Why do you mean? Like what pistons, what clearances, etc?
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:30 AM   #13
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Perfect motor build

To me the motor being built is dependant on the fuel going to be used... IMO For gas low compression is best 9:1 to max out pump gas horsepower. To me give flexibility and wide range of power 680 up to about 850 with race fuel. Cleaning up exhaust port is important. I'm going with a longer duration exhaust cam to get exhaust out of the cylinder hopping to makes some gains over stock cams. I'm looking for 730 on 94 octane alone. If fuel is E85 I would go with 10:1 others have done 11:5:1 but I think it's too much cylinder pressure. Especially if 87.5 mm bore. If the block is properly sleeved then I think u can run more compression which means quicker spool and throttle response. Rods and pistons r key and ceramic coating is preferred to keep detonation threshold down. Proper balancing of engine with all parts that r rotated by crank including pulleys, flywheel, pressure plate etc.... If u had the budget I would go stroker sleeved with titanium rods and keep rpms down to 7500 for longevity and limit power to 900 wheel
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:15 AM   #14
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Why do you mean? Like what pistons, what clearances, etc?
exactly Id like to know parts what brand pistons, did you go with anything other than stock cams, more or less im trying to figure out what worked and what didn't work, and maybe if you were to go back what would you change

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To me the motor being built is dependant on the fuel going to be used... IMO For gas low compression is best 9:1 to max out pump gas horsepower. To me give flexibility and wide range of power 680 up to about 850 with race fuel. Cleaning up exhaust port is important. I'm going with a longer duration exhaust cam to get exhaust out of the cylinder hopping to makes some gains over stock cams. I'm looking for 730 on 94 octane alone. If fuel is E85 I would go with 10:1 others have done 11:5:1 but I think it's too much cylinder pressure. Especially if 87.5 mm bore. If the block is properly sleeved then I think u can run more compression which means quicker spool and throttle response. Rods and pistons r key and ceramic coating is preferred to keep detonation threshold down. Proper balancing of engine with all parts that r rotated by crank including pulleys, flywheel, pressure plate etc.... If u had the budget I would go stroker sleeved with titanium rods and keep rpms down to 7500 for longevity and limit power to 900 wheel
good info, i dont like the stroker sleeved idea as lots of people have been un successful with it

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Old 07-24-2014, 03:54 PM   #15
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Perfect motor build

Sleeves would have to be done correctly so they don't move with via a lip at bottom of bore for the sleeve to sit thus become sandwiched between bottom lip and cylinder head and r impossible to move. I believe u go to an 88mm bore and sleeve it down to 85 reducing to 3 litre that's why stroker crank bring it back to 3.3 litre and titanium rod for reduced weight and lowering rpm to 7500 to get piston speed down with longer stroke ... Billet mains would be needed as well.... This setup has not been done to my knowledge but is my theory of a motor that might take 1000 horsepower... The walls IMO even on stock motor are too thin and can't take 1000 hp for long... I believe Mert maybe running something like this with 12:5:1 running straight methanol not sure of what numbers he makes
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:51 PM   #16
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....waiting for mert to say 13:1 is safe for 1500 hp
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:18 PM   #17
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....waiting for mert to say 13:1 is safe for 1500 hp
You will have to wait for 100 years

13 is not safe, it will put loads of stress on rods, pistons, head gasket.

I went up to 12,8:1, havent finished testing due to my broken foot.

Safest is 9:1. Drive it for years and many miles.

The higher the C.R the more pressure within combustion chamber.

One thing needs to be underlined, camshaft duration. I have 12+ compression but 310/310 cams lower compression ratio by 3 points.

I just had a pmail on supraforums, his boost is 75 psi. 2JZ is still the king, 75 - 90 psi is common these days.
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Old 07-25-2014, 05:17 PM   #18
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Wy do it so complicaded? I have my 2. s54 turbo now in my e21 race car. I now run a original block whit 9-1 comp wiseco pistons and crower rods, cooperring head gasget from ppf and arp bolts inn bottom an for the head. The head is original. It only has supertech springs and retainers.Thats basicly it. I run a precision 8284 turbo running 29 psi of boost whit e85. I have 1111whp and about 820ftp tourq. Tuned whit vanos by ppf in sweden. In norway we have the gatebil events and we drive our cars hard att the track. And the s54 have proven to be wery reliabel. Nobody have destroyd a block or anyting yet. Do you have any dyno paper off your engines mert?
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Old 07-25-2014, 05:57 PM   #19
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Wy do it so complicaded? I have my 2. s54 turbo now in my e21 race car. I now run a original block whit 9-1 comp wiseco pistons and crower rods, cooperring head gasget from ppf and arp bolts inn bottom an for the head. The head is original. It only has supertech springs and retainers.Thats basicly it. I run a precision 8284 turbo running 29 psi of boost whit e85. I have 1111whp and about 820ftp tourq. Tuned whit vanos by ppf in sweden. In norway we have the gatebil events and we drive our cars hard att the track. And the s54 have proven to be wery reliabel. Nobody have destroyd a block or anyting yet. Do you have any dyno paper off your engines mert?

this was a 990 whp run, 4 1/2 years ago.
3,2L low compression S54
Today 12 + compression / 3500 cc ....
Today power band is stronger, more power at lower revs.

Today automatic gearbox can be used with different torque converters, all have different slip ratios, so Wheel hp varies according t.converter stall.
Same setup same engine gives different whp with each torque converter. Weird but true, same engine puts down different whp with each t.converter....
I am in the process of finding optimum t.converter. 4 torque converters are being tested these days.



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Old 07-27-2014, 09:25 AM   #20
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well,

to stay on topic and try to answer the question my motor just popped

of all the S54 build quotes i have requested i am leaning towards Andrew@LangRacings offer

S54 Sleeved block
Custom Cunningham Rods
Custom LangRacing crank widening kit
Custom MAHLE powerpak pistons (10:5:1 comp)
Mahle 87mm piston rings
DLC coated wrist pins
Clevite Tri-metal bearings
ALL ARP Bolts
Lang Racing Stage 4 "Turbo ready" cylinder head
LangRacing cam bolt upgrade kit
Supertech Valvespring/ exhaust / intake kits
All new gaskets
VAC Upgraded oil pump
New timing chain, tensioning rail, slide rail

My Vanos was already rebuilt with all Beisan system stuff
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