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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-06-2012, 12:49 PM   #241
Danoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schroeder6th View Post
I've read this thread a few times and maybe I just over looked it:

I plan on replacing bushings today with new "carriers with bushings"
How difficult is it to remove the old bushing and carrier from the control arm ?

In addition: Getting the new bushing on the control arm?


Thanks In Advance
My mechanic used a tool to remove the carrier/bushing from the arm and put it back on (there's a separate tool to remove the bushing from the carrier which you obviously don't need). I got the impression that that tool was important. You should also take care to note where the old bushing is on the arm and make sure you install the new one to that point. It looked easy to push it too far onto the arm, or not far enough. The tool looked kinda like a C-Clamp with two large plates that got pushed together or pulled apart - like something that might be used to back a brake caliper piston off.

Last edited by Danoff; 02-06-2012 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:56 PM   #242
schroeder6th
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Thanks Again

Thanks Again To The Forum.

Did the relacement today, using 3 fingered puller.
Again, Piece 0 Cake following the DIY.

Thanks

PS: 90% of Described Clunking Gone, 10% still there, Thoughts ?
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:00 PM   #243
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Bentley has pictures of the CAB and control arm with the correct measurements as to where the position should be. Good to take a look at before you push the new bushing on.
I used Powerflex and found the fit to be on the loose side. Almost to the point of concern, but 30K+ miles later I'm still good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danoff View Post
My mechanic used a tool to remove the carrier/bushing from the arm and put it back on (there's a separate tool to remove the bushing from the carrier which you obviously don't need). I got the impression that that tool was important. You should also take care to note where the old bushing is on the arm and make sure you install the new one to that point. It looked easy to push it too far onto the arm, or not far enough. The tool looked kinda like a C-Clamp with two large plates that got pushed together or pulled apart - like something that might be used to back a brake caliper piston off.
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:02 PM   #244
Stinger9
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Which CAB did you use?
Did you let them rest an hour before driving the car as Bentley suggests?


Quote:
Originally Posted by schroeder6th View Post
Thanks Again To The Forum.

Did the relacement today, using 3 fingered puller.
Again, Piece 0 Cake following the DIY.

Thanks

PS: 90% of Described Clunking Gone, 10% still there, Thoughts ?
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:41 PM   #245
schroeder6th
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Opp's

Used Beck Arnley, Let rest an hour, got to be kidding, I was so excited I drove within minutes. I'd take another drive shortly and we'll see.

Thanks for the reply'replies.
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:23 PM   #246
Stinger9
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Bentley issues a warning to let the car rest for at least 30 minutes without moving the car or serious handling problems could result.

Quote:
Originally Posted by schroeder6th View Post
Used Beck Arnley, Let rest an hour, got to be kidding, I was so excited I drove within minutes. I'd take another drive shortly and we'll see.

Thanks for the reply'replies.
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:33 PM   #247
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Opp's
I did drive right away, noticed it had tightened up, good, but did still have some minor [same type] clunking.
Will go out in a while, 50plus degrees, and report back,

Thanks
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:38 PM   #248
schroeder6th
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Another Thing

When I took down the Shield [held on with 8 bolts] one bolt was missing.

Instead of going to the dealers, anyone know the thread size ?

Thanks In Advance !!
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:22 PM   #249
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Are you talking about the shield or the reinforcing structural plate?
If the plate is what you are referring to, they are special bolts and should only be used once and then thrown away. Failure of the chassis could result if these instructions are ignored.

Quote:
Originally Posted by schroeder6th View Post
When I took down the Shield [held on with 8 bolts] one bolt was missing.

Instead of going to the dealers, anyone know the thread size ?

Thanks In Advance !!
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:06 AM   #250
schroeder6th
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Clunks Abound

1st a little back ground: 2002, 330ci, 180,000 miles. Replaced Front and Rear Shocks 5 months ago. Last week going over a speed bump I first noticed the "clunk" coming from both sides, also "clunks" at low speed on rough roads. Pulled wheels and without a doubt both LCAB's were visally shot. Yesterday replaced both with Beck Arnley parts. [PS: Was A Piece 0 Cake using FYI]. Rethinking prior post, Went for drive after car sat for at least 30 minutes. A day after replacement another drive: Suspension feels much tighter, response much better, shimmy under braking gone but "clunks" still there. Without a doubt LCAB's were shot, but not sure where to turn next. Thanks In Advance
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:47 AM   #251
Stinger9
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The first thought that comes to mind is to ask where the clunks come from as best as you can tell?
Then I'd want you to look at the rear subchassis to check for sheet metal tears where it mounts to the car. Also inspect the bushings.
And take a close look at all four shock towers to see if you note any deformation or tears. Or failure of the rear shock mounts at the rubber bushings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by schroeder6th View Post
1st a little back ground: 2002, 330ci, 180,000 miles. Replaced Front and Rear Shocks 5 months ago. Last week going over a speed bump I first noticed the "clunk" coming from both sides, also "clunks" at low speed on rough roads. Pulled wheels and without a doubt both LCAB's were visally shot. Yesterday replaced both with Beck Arnley parts. [PS: Was A Piece 0 Cake using FYI]. Rethinking prior post, Went for drive after car sat for at least 30 minutes. A day after replacement another drive: Suspension feels much tighter, response much better, shimmy under braking gone but "clunks" still there. Without a doubt LCAB's were shot, but not sure where to turn next. Thanks In Advance
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:36 PM   #252
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Stinger:
Clunks are coming from the Right and Left Front Foot Wells, slightly above. And only on low speed "bumpy" sufaces.
Shock Towers: Was my first suspect, everything looks good.
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Old 02-07-2012, 11:06 PM   #253
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Have you inspected all the linkages such as the swaybar links and the swaybar bushings?
How are your ball joints and tie rods?
I'm just trying to think of everything.
I'd stick my head in there and grab ahold of things and start shaking them.

You're running a high mileage car. How far back do you know the history?
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:49 AM   #254
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NEED HELP!... Yesterday I tried replacing my left control arm, I was able to remove the nut on the outer ball joint, the inner is 3/4 of the way off, now the bolt and nut just spin. I tried holding it in place using a hex head , but I can't get the bolt off...Any suggestions!
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:43 AM   #255
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I'm trying to remember back to when I did mine the DIY's cautioned against prying the taper out before the nut was completely removed for just the reason you describe.
My first guess to help you would be to tighten up the bolt again to "lock" the taper, and then take the bolt completely off.
I realize you will have a problem tightening the nut because the ball joint will spin. I would try to put a jack under the control arm to force the taper back up tight enough to grip. Then take the nut off completely, then pickle fork the taper apart again.
Does that sound like it might work?
Take extra care if usiing a jack to force the ball joint taper tight not to come close to lifting the car up off the jack stands if that is what you are using. Easy go!
Come back here and tell me if what I described doesn't make sense.
Just trying to get back to you in a hurry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertigo563 View Post
NEED HELP!... Yesterday I tried replacing my left control arm, I was able to remove the nut on the outer ball joint, the inner is 3/4 of the way off, now the bolt and nut just spin. I tried holding it in place using a hex head , but I can't get the bolt off...Any suggestions!

Last edited by Stinger9; 02-08-2012 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:59 AM   #256
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I'LL try that putting a jack under it , I will let u know if it works
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:41 PM   #257
schroeder6th
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Stinger: and others following this thread, A broken sway bar link will cause a simular clunking.
I replaced [needed] LCAB's and then today found Sway Bar Link Broken also.
Replaced same "Clunkless"

Thanks All
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:52 AM   #258
Vertigo563
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I put a jack under the ball joint ...but it still would not make it tight enough to get the nut off...looks like I will have to take it to the shop...I just hate paying someone to get one nut/bolt off.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:02 PM   #259
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I've seen all kinds of specialized vise-grips, like needle nose models.
Room enough to get some very thin needle nose in there to hold the bolt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertigo563 View Post
I put a jack under the ball joint ...but it still would not make it tight enough to get the nut off...looks like I will have to take it to the shop...I just hate paying someone to get one nut/bolt off.
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:40 PM   #260
Vertigo563
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I tried it w/vice grips also...still kept spinning ...so I got really pissed off and cut the bolt off by the boot... the CA is now off but the bolt is still stick in the frame...I think I am f**ked
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