E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 42 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 09-02-2004, 08:06 AM   #61
ExoByte
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 9
My Ride: 1999 Black 328i
Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Man
I am in the same boat...the 66mm will fit in place of the 60mm!! I just ordered mine from the dealer! BMW part number 31126757623

Trieberg?? Just did this and he said that it was a fairly easy job! Make sure to follow Tim330i's procedure for torque specifications on the cross bars and carrier to body.
Thanks for the info!
ExoByte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 03:49 PM   #62
Alex
Mom says I'm a catch
 
Alex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Terra Sarda
Posts: 6,081
My Ride: E46
Send a message via MSN to Alex
ok, my suggestion, Tim's DIY should be moved to the Tech section of the website, this an awesome write-up!!

Tim, whada ya say??

Alex
__________________
A lap dance is so much better if the stripper is crying.
Alex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2004, 04:18 PM   #63
treiberg
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: bakersfield, ca
Posts: 7
My Ride: '99 328i
OEM Style!!

Guys, I still have a few sets of the OEM style if anybody needs them. They are the newer style (66mm), they are brand new in the box, and I will sell them for $85, and that INCLUDES shipping. My friend had a BMW shop that he closed down and I took these off his hands knowing how many people are in need of new bushings. The include the carriers, so NO PRESSING is required, and will save a bunch of time.

Many posts here are leaning towards OEM and away from the BImmerworld ones because of premature failure. I installed the OEM ones and absolutely love them They take 1-2 hours to install.

Just PM me if interested...you will find a few posts out there from the several people who have already taken these.
treiberg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 07:43 AM   #64
Surk
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Burlington,CANADA
Posts: 848
My Ride: C Blk E46///M3
Cab

I just installed the Treiberg 66mm CAB's to replace my OEM 60mm... Much improved feel to car, no wander or shake.

Installation was as simple as described and hassle free..

Many thanx to Terry for making these avail to e46Fan members..
__________________
Surk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2004, 05:33 PM   #65
jnash
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston
Posts: 4
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330i
Changing these bushing is tough!

Ok, so I purchased the front-end bushing pre-installed in their mounts and as I started to change them out I initially thought the job would take no more than 1 1/2 hours. However, installing the new bushings with the lower control arms on the car proved difficult. Sliding the new bushing took a lot of effort. You cannot hammer these bushing in place since there is so much rebound due to the amount of rubber present. I ended up using engine oil as a lubricant and got them half way on. Then, using the bolt that attaches the sub-frame, a long sturdy bar you need a pair of extra hands to lever them into place. They never quite get in place until you offer them up and bolt back in place which requires some twisting. Once bolted and driven they slide into place by themselves for the last quarter inch or so. Get ready to use some muscle.
Something to note on the alignment afterwards: There is no adjustment for the parts you have replaced. If you know the tow-in was good and the strut positions OK, then there is probably no need to spend money on the alignment. I had mine checked and everything was in spec except the rear tow-in (back axel). The car had hit a ladder in the road last year and I had to have the alignment adjusted after blowing out the front tire. What I didnít realize back then that I had broken the front bushing on the passenger side. When I replaced the bushing no oil was present in the r/h one.

Now I need to track down a A/C fan chirping on some speeds. If anyone knows what this might be - please tell me. It's a soft chirp on one or two fan speeds that appears almost all the time. Sometimes going over a bump in the road will cause it to come on. The famous resister pack failer has been replace already.

Cheers
Jim
jnash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2004, 04:23 PM   #66
ExoByte
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 9
My Ride: 1999 Black 328i
What a complete PITA getting the OEM bushings back on the control arm. It took me a few reads of Jim's post but I finally understood the process. I took a picture, but I would *not* recommend using the bolt (as shown) for leverage as I bent the hell out of one of them. I would use a small metal rod or screwdriver, or you could use a bolt if you have an extra. The picture is kind of crappy (phonecam) but you get the idea.

-Joel

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	bar.jpg
Views:	2766
Size:	27.6 KB
ID:	96542  

Last edited by ExoByte; 10-25-2004 at 04:26 PM.
ExoByte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2004, 11:31 PM   #67
kmurstig
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Beaverton Oregon
Posts: 12
My Ride: 99' 328i sedan
I had a hard time getting one of the bushings on also, when I did the other one I put a BUNCH of wheel bearing grease on the bearing and control arm and it slide on with a moderate amount of force. The second one went on by hand in about 2 min, no prying needed. The first one (with a small amount of grease) had to be forced on and took over 30 min. For those who are going to try this just remember to use LOTS of grease and it should be no problem, I basically filled almost the entire inside of the bushing with grease, most of it gets pushed out.

Hope that helps.
kmurstig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2004, 11:15 AM   #68
ExoByte
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 9
My Ride: 1999 Black 328i
I greased the hell out of mine too. Maybe I had virgin bushings.
ExoByte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2004, 09:29 PM   #69
nEVERCLEAR
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SC
Posts: 702
My Ride: 323
I was having the same problem everyone is describing with getting the bushing back one (OEM)

I took a scotchbrite pad and cleaned the surface good, a scotchbrite pad is just the right corseness to get the dirt, but not remove metal which would probably not be a problem if you did it lightly with sand paper.

I then used Sil Glyde that I bought from Napa Auto for my weatherstriiping, it rocked, I fought for 20 minutes and nada, then got the idea to clean and lub and they slid right on.

Hope this helps, and if anyone knows about the A/C chirping when I accelerate please tell me what to do.

I remember reading somone removed the blower motor and used powered graphite to lubricate the bearing in the blower and they said it works. I would rather not pull the dash apart without a second conformation of it being viable and long lasting.
__________________
Thinking about a Honda or VW Dont buy from East Coast Honda - VW Read about my experience here

Some people dream of speed-others create a damn jet powered shopping cart.
Curious about VoIP and Vonage click here
nEVERCLEAR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2004, 08:43 PM   #70
DrElectron
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 57
My Ride: 2000 323i
Good tip for control arm bushing install. As far as AC chirping, my 2000 323i had the same noise just before the AC compressor seized and stalled the engine. Needed to replace the compressor.
DrElectron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 07:53 PM   #71
Staszek
Are we there yet??
 
Staszek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 6,536
My Ride: Now a daily drive
Send a message via AIM to Staszek
Great writeup Tim!! I changed mine tonight. I used OEM bushings again though.

One thing though and it worked on mine not sure if it will work on everyones. But i was able to use the 3 arm puller and pull the entire carrier with bushing off at one without having to cut anything away. Came out pretty easy. Here are pics if others wanna try that method.

Thanks!
__________________

Euro Delivery Date 8/14: 2013 E93
///M3 -6MT

Last edited by Staszek; 02-13-2006 at 09:26 PM.
Staszek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:29 PM   #72
nEVERCLEAR
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SC
Posts: 702
My Ride: 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staszek
Great writeup Tim!! I changed mine tonight. I used OEM bushings again though.

One thing though and it worked on mine not sure if it will work on everyones. But i was able to use the 3 arm puller and pull the entire carrier with bushing off at one without having to cut anything away. Came out pretty easy. Here are pics if others wanna try that method.

Thanks!

What did you block the center with to get the puller to push on?
__________________
Thinking about a Honda or VW Dont buy from East Coast Honda - VW Read about my experience here

Some people dream of speed-others create a damn jet powered shopping cart.
Curious about VoIP and Vonage click here
nEVERCLEAR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:32 PM   #73
Staszek
Are we there yet??
 
Staszek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 6,536
My Ride: Now a daily drive
Send a message via AIM to Staszek
Quote:
Originally Posted by nEVERCLEAR
What did you block the center with to get the puller to push on?

Nothing. I had the point of the puller directly in the center of the control arm itself. It moves around a bit I had to hold the pullers arms tight around the carrier till I was able to crank it a few times and got it tight, then after that I put my socket wrench at the end of the puller and turned till it was almost off, then just pulled it off by hand.
__________________

Euro Delivery Date 8/14: 2013 E93
///M3 -6MT
Staszek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2004, 11:56 PM   #74
leewill722
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: maryland
Posts: 4
My Ride: 328ci
Thanks for the great write-up and advice. I replaced both control arms with a new set of oem bushings this past weekend. It took a while, but now my car feels great.
I wish I would have taken pics for the control arm portion of the project but I was more concerned about getting the job done. I had also read that you are supposed to get the car back on the ground to load the bushings for proper settling as quickly as possible. However, it took me a lot longer than expected. This is described in the next link:
http://www.dol.net/~stimpee/carmrepl.htm
It took me a lot longer than I thought, should I be worried.
The control arm is pretty much impossible to get off the outer ball joint (next to wheel) without a special tool. I tried banging on it with a pickle fork and a 3 pound hammer. I mean really banging just like the above website mentioned but I couldn't get it off.
Using a tool such as the following did the trick.
http://handsontools.com/store-produc...ter_3279.html#
The BMW tool mentioned in the Bentley manual is too expensive and this tool works great. Fast shipping by these guys.
Anyway, I have a question for you guys.
My steering wheel was off center slightly before the project, and there was shaking during braking. I was gonna get an alignment done after the project. However, after the porject, the shaking upon braking ceased (something I hoped would happen, otherwise another project, new pads and rotors), and the steering wheel actually centered. Before it was off by about 20 deg and now it is pretty close to center.
Do I need an alignment? I probably do but can I get away with not doing one? Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by leewill722; 11-09-2004 at 12:01 AM.
leewill722 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2004, 08:12 AM   #75
nEVERCLEAR
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: SC
Posts: 702
My Ride: 323
I would watch for odd tire wear, if it feels good and the tires wear properly I would not get it aligned. Some places will check your alignment for free.
__________________
Thinking about a Honda or VW Dont buy from East Coast Honda - VW Read about my experience here

Some people dream of speed-others create a damn jet powered shopping cart.
Curious about VoIP and Vonage click here
nEVERCLEAR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2005, 04:19 PM   #76
knifegun
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 28
My Ride: BMW E46/S2000
Urethan Bushing moving?

I installed the PowerFlex Urethane bushings on my car and it looks like the inner sleeve (purple part) has creeped out of the carrier. Has anyone else had this issue? Here is a photo. Notice the purple inside sleeve of the bushing is out about 1/2 centimeter.

knifegun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2005, 06:57 PM   #77
Yobroe
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 5
My Ride: 2000 323i
Send a message via Yahoo to Yobroe
Quote:
Originally Posted by nEVERCLEAR
I was having the same problem everyone is describing with getting the bushing back one (OEM)

I took a scotchbrite pad and cleaned the surface good, a scotchbrite pad is just the right corseness to get the dirt, but not remove metal which would probably not be a problem if you did it lightly with sand paper.

I then used Sil Glyde that I bought from Napa Auto for my weatherstriiping, it rocked, I fought for 20 minutes and nada, then got the idea to clean and lub and they slid right on.

Hope this helps, and if anyone knows about the A/C chirping when I accelerate please tell me what to do.

I remember reading somone removed the blower motor and used powered graphite to lubricate the bearing in the blower and they said it works. I would rather not pull the dash apart without a second conformation of it being viable and long lasting.
Yeah, getting these things back on is a MUTHA!! I just tore the wife's car apart this last weekend, pressed the damn sleeve out of the old mounts (what a SUPER HUGE pain in the @#$) just to find out I had 60 mm instead of the powerflex 66 mm I ordered. So, I had to get this thing back on the road and went to a local store, BMW ONLY, in Bellevue, WA and bought 66mm OEMs. They did say that this production from BMW is a better bushing than stock, and should last 60k...we'll see. I think I saw someone in this thread a couple pages back that didn't even have a floorjack and was renting all his tools? I wonder what happened to him? Big problems...I hope not

Now back to the garage...to try to slip on my virgin bushings...damn, it's a hard push...and my HUGE HAMMER is not working!!!
__________________
2000 323i, Steptronic, Premium package--no sport package :(

1997 Toyota 4runner SR5 3.4l, 5 speed, 4wd, deckplate mod, ARB Bull Bar
Yobroe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2005, 08:57 PM   #78
Yobroe
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 5
My Ride: 2000 323i
Send a message via Yahoo to Yobroe
Well, with my wonder bar out prying against the exhaust pipe on the passenger side and using a screwdriver through the hole to line up, then push as hard as I could, the things are in! I used synthetic motor oil on the passenger side and it was HARD. I used Liquid Wrench on the driver's side and it seemed to go on better--but that might be because Mr. Control Arm met Mr. Dremel Tool and any of the slightest burs or anything were removed prior. I used the Scotch Brite pad like was suggested and that shined the arm up nice--that was a great tip. I did my wheel bearing last weekend...that was a breeze. This was a rotten dirty son of a suckin no good rat of a job.

Having said all that...I think the job would be easier if you use the Power Flex bushings instead of OEM. The idea of tapping the blue innard onto the arm, then sliding the bracket onto the blue piece looks a hell of alot easier than what I just went through. OEM will never go back on my BMW as long as I own it...what a of a job.

Oh yeah...I just took it out for a drive and it feels damn good. I slammed on the brakes after going a few miles and heard a clunk..those are definitely seated now
__________________
2000 323i, Steptronic, Premium package--no sport package :(

1997 Toyota 4runner SR5 3.4l, 5 speed, 4wd, deckplate mod, ARB Bull Bar

Last edited by Yobroe; 04-11-2005 at 09:02 PM.
Yobroe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2005, 10:38 AM   #79
WOSBY
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 2
My Ride: 07 BMW E90 335i
Send a message via Yahoo to WOSBY
Very thorough DIY install Tim. Thanks.

For those of you that are considering replacing your OEM bushings with Powerflex, you can make Tims DIY instructions even easier by also replacing the control arm, as the ball joints on them use "rubber sleeves" that are prone to wear. There are now control arms on the market with a "metal sleeve" ball joint, not prone to the oil leak failure of rubber ones.

Also keep in mind that any suspension work of this nature should be followed by a wheel alignment

Happy Motoring,
Wosby
WOSBY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2006, 11:49 PM   #80
davidwarren
Halfway to 2L
 
davidwarren's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: louisville, ky
Posts: 2,504
My Ride: 2010 335i
a good way to get the bushings back onto the control arm is with dish soap. they slide right on without any problems.
__________________

You down with UCC? Ya you know me!
sowing the seeds of jiggery pokery
davidwarren is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use