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Old 06-01-2004, 06:53 PM   #81
Rondor
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So to avoid my own confusion...

I have a 2004 M3. You would recommend that I use the Castrol TWS 10w-60 every 7500 miles? Did I get that right?

Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by cary1
I personally like Redline Tranny Fluids for both manual and automatic transmissions. Which fluid you use depends on what your transmission originally required. If you e-mail redline they will tell you what they recommend. Generally a 30,000 mile change interval is what I find best.

IMPORTANT CAVEAT: BMW Automatic transmissions use so many different types of fluid it is hard to keep straight. Be very careful what you use and follow the manufacture guidlines. I know the ZF trannies use special shellor Texaco fluids that cannot be substituted with normal ATF fluids. Here is a link to a chart with the different fluid requirements.

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/SD92-113.pdf

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Old 06-02-2004, 12:58 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rondor
So to avoid my own confusion...

I have a 2004 M3. You would recommend that I use the Castrol TWS 10w-60 every 7500 miles? Did I get that right?

Thanks
Yes. If you have a M car that calls for the Castrol 10w-60, use only that oil. I would recommend 7500 mile changes. Note, I only have used oil analysis for the non-M cars, showing the BMW oil cannot go the 15,000 mile interval (do a search on bobistheoilguy.com under used oil analysis for bmw), but there have been no used oil analysis posted of the 10w-60. Given the high strain that the M motors are under, I believe 15,000 miles is way to long.

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Old 06-02-2004, 01:19 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cary1
Yes. If you have a M car that calls for the Castrol 10w-60, use only that oil. I would recommend 7500 mile changes. Note, I only have used oil analysis for the non-M cars, showing the BMW oil cannot go the 15,000 mile interval (do a search on bobistheoilguy.com under used oil analysis for bmw), but there have been no used oil analysis posted of the 10w-60. Given the high strain that the M motors are under, I believe 15,000 miles is way to long.

Cary
I can shed some light on the S54 with the 10w-60 used oil analysis. Several of my M Couep buddies with the S54 engine did just that. They were worried about the engine blowing up and the high chromium content that seems to show before the engine blows.

Anyways at 7500miles, the oil was still clean and able to protect the engine and the internals.
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Old 06-02-2004, 01:28 AM   #84
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Cary:

Are you a regular on BITOG ? I used to frequent a lot back in the day and don't recall seeing you there. Curious that's all.

I'd like to point out to my fellow Canadian Fanatics (in case it didn't come up in the whole thread), to stick with GC 0W30 for the winter months. Otherwise you may end up getting a check engine light because the Vanos is clogged up.
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Old 06-02-2004, 08:52 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmodeus
Cary:

Are you a regular on BITOG ? I used to frequent a lot back in the day and don't recall seeing you there. Curious that's all.

I'd like to point out to my fellow Canadian Fanatics (in case it didn't come up in the whole thread), to stick with GC 0W30 for the winter months. Otherwise you may end up getting a check engine light because the Vanos is clogged up.
Yep, just check under my name. BTW, since you brought it up, you should explain what GC is (I didn't because of all the confusion it would cause).

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Old 06-02-2004, 09:43 AM   #86
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I'll pay more attention next time I swing by BITOG.

In a nutshell GC stands for German Castrol.

Until a few years ago, North America had a NA blend of 0W30 Castrol Oil. If I'm not mistaken (Cary, feel free to make any corrections here), we now only receive Germany's Castrol 0W30 formulation.

In a nutshell, you can identify GC since the bottle is black and the lettering is Red. Whilst NA version has yellow lettering and sometimes there are snow flakes on the logo.

The main differences between the GC and NA version, following the KISS method:

GC is A3 certified, NA is not (A1 only)
GC is BMW LL01 (LongLife01) approved, NA is not
GC is green in colour, NA is not


.....

Two years ago I had a Check Engine Light appear after start up one febuary morning. Went to the stealership and they informed me that with our Canadian winters, 5W30 was often too viscous for the VANOS to function properly. The remedy was to switch over to 0W30 oil. I have been doing it ever since and haven't had an issues.

Oh and my car is hella faster because of that over seas green oil in my engine during the winter time. At least.... 25 HP to the wheels
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:56 AM   #87
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this is definitely some good stuff...thanks for the info!
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:58 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmodeus
I'll pay more attention next time I swing by BITOG.

In a nutshell GC stands for German Castrol.

Until a few years ago, North America had a NA blend of 0W30 Castrol Oil. If I'm not mistaken (Cary, feel free to make any corrections here), we now only receive Germany's Castrol 0W30 formulation.

In a nutshell, you can identify GC since the bottle is black and the lettering is Red. Whilst NA version has yellow lettering and sometimes there are snow flakes on the logo.

The main differences between the GC and NA version, following the KISS method:

GC is A3 certified, NA is not (A1 only)
GC is BMW LL01 (LongLife01) approved, NA is not
GC is green in colour, NA is not


.....

Two years ago I had a Check Engine Light appear after start up one febuary morning. Went to the stealership and they informed me that with our Canadian winters, 5W30 was often too viscous for the VANOS to function properly. The remedy was to switch over to 0W30 oil. I have been doing it ever since and haven't had an issues.

Oh and my car is hella faster because of that over seas green oil in my engine during the winter time. At least.... 25 HP to the wheels

Last thing to check to make sure it is German Castrol is it says on the back, made in Germany. Here is a link to a whole thread on how to identify it. http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...=003494#000000

Personally, I recommend the Mobil 0w-40 because of ease of finding it, German Castrol can be a pain to find. I agree with Asmodeus about the Vanos issue, one reason I don't generally recommend the 15w-50. Either the GC or M1 are better choices than the Factory 5w-30.

Cary
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Old 06-02-2004, 02:42 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rondor
So to avoid my own confusion...

I have a 2004 M3. You would recommend that I use the Castrol TWS 10w-60 every 7500 miles? Did I get that right?

Thanks
I would do it more like every 6,000 miles.

The scheduled maintenance tends to come every 12,000 miles, not 15,000.

Mine came about every 11,000, so I usually do one oil change on my own dime every 5,500 miles between the free ones.
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Old 06-02-2004, 02:56 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atyclb
I would do it more like every 6,000 miles.

The scheduled maintenance tends to come every 12,000 miles, not 15,000.

Mine came about every 11,000, so I usually do one oil change on my own dime every 5,500 miles between the free ones.
Holy Cow, something we agree on!!!!!

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Old 06-02-2004, 09:55 PM   #91
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Holy Cow, something we agree on!!!!!

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Old 06-02-2004, 10:13 PM   #92
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i really dont udnerstand alot of this info, but can someone please answer my really simple question since my yellow oil light goes on alot lately... which oil should i go and buy... brand and model please i really need a concrete answer from one of you, thanks!
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Old 06-03-2004, 01:13 AM   #93
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Cary:

GC is very easy to find in Canada given our cold winters. Canadian Tire and Wallmart are always stocked. Thank goodness for that.

I'm going to start stocking up again soon. I think last year i had 32L of the stuff.
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Old 06-03-2004, 09:10 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by pimpn04coupe
i really dont udnerstand alot of this info, but can someone please answer my really simple question since my yellow oil light goes on alot lately... which oil should i go and buy... brand and model please i really need a concrete answer from one of you, thanks!
buy the brand and model listed in your owner's manual
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Old 06-05-2004, 02:00 PM   #95
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Great thread!! I'm about to do an oil change.
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Old 06-05-2004, 02:16 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtt777
Cary,

I work in the lubricants industry and want to comment on a few of these items. There is nothing wrong with using the 5W-30 Mobil 1 oil if you are concerned about the ACEA requirements. It is an ACEA A5 oil which adds ontop of A3's requirements with fuel economy. The engine oil manufactuer/lubricant additive company must prove that the oil proves fuel economy over a base oil. Its quite possible that other oils also meet this, but this is another costly certification that they may not choose to run for all oils. All certifications cost money. The additive packages you get in all the mobil 1 grades is not going to vary performance wise. they dont make the 0-40 better than the 5W-30 by adding more anti-wear, dispersants or detergent additives.

Also i think you were concerned about the weights of the oil. The company cannot brand the oil at a 5W-30 unless it meets certain viscosity ranges. I highly doubt your going to experience substantial engine wear if you are 2 cst off of the BMW target but you have a great additive package (which mobil 1 does). Its the additives that do all the protection.

Lastly about using oils not from major companies... I really would not recommend it. Companies like ExxonMobil and Castrol actually do a lot of engine testing and are very involved in selecting the best additives and making sure the package works together well with the oil. They spend lots of money to get approvals. The smaller companies cannot do all this testing and get so involved with fine tuning the oil. They buy a good base stock but what about the additive package? Theres a lot of science that goes into makign a good additive package and i doubt if they a lot of times have the resources to develop one. Often times a lot of these packages are the same ones used by a big name company just stuck in a different base stock with no testing. You dont see formula one cars running around with joe schmoe oils in them now do you?

Bottom line, anyone using 5W30 Mobil 1, dont worry about. your engine is going to last a long long time and i wouldnt change a thing.

-Jeff
Both offer good info... but I have been using M1-5w30 and I guess I can continue it
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Old 06-05-2004, 06:45 PM   #97
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Nice informative write up.
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:10 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cary1
Do you have any recommendations for replacing the oil in manual transmissions and the differentials? I've asked the parts dept. at my local BMW dealer and they don't know. Because it's lifetime they have never replaced it for anyone.
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Old 06-07-2004, 11:26 AM   #99
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Redline fluids.

I did mine last summer at about 50,000.


EDIT: QUESTION - I changed my oil with Mobil 1 5w 30 about 1500 miles ago. I want to switch over to the 0w 40 now; can I change the oil only, or do you guys recommend I do both oil and filter? Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2004, 11:37 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by dboffa
Redline fluids.

I did mine last summer at about 50,000.


EDIT: QUESTION - I changed my oil with Mobil 1 5w 30 about 1500 miles ago. I want to switch over to the 0w 40 now; can I change the oil only, or do you guys recommend I do both oil and filter? Thanks.

Why don't you just change the oil first then about 3000 miles after you change the oil change the filter. IT shouldn't be hard to change the filter. Quick 5 minute job. Filter is like $8 right?
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