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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 05-16-2014, 03:00 PM   #1
PatriotJack42
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Need to pass inspection

2000 323i 218k miles; Peake metor error codes: E3, E4, C6, CA; replaced upstream and down stream oxygen sensors over a year ago; Engine Service Light comes on and stays on; will not pass inspection; checked all vac hoses ok; any suggestions?

Last edited by PatriotJack42; 06-10-2014 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 05-22-2014, 01:39 AM   #2
Snipez4664
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you will probably get more help if you post what the peak error codes actually mean. i did a quick search but gave up. People on here are much more familiar with the pXXXX codes.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:01 PM   #3
wildcat293
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check upper and lower intake boot. you should remove them to check thoroughly as installed they can look fine.
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:13 PM   #4
DNTHATE
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Need to pass inspection

Remove all the hoses and recheck them, listen around your secondary air pump, not sure how to explain what a bad one sounds like, it's been so long, but it pumps oxygen into the exhaust for emissions so I'd check this pretty good. If those hoses are soft at all try replacing them. Clean the Idle control valve since your already going to take off all the intake boots again and post up what those codes mean.
Do you know if your even close to passing? A can of that **** you dump In your gas tank might get you to pass and then you can come back and fix the real problem
Did the o2 sensors have **** all over them? I kept getting o2 codes, but it was being caused by a vacuum leak that made me run lean, fixed that issue and no more o2 codes.



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Last edited by DNTHATE; 05-23-2014 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 05-24-2014, 08:30 PM   #5
PatriotJack42
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Failed Inspt

Thank u DN, I will ck for vacuum leaks etc, what is the name of the $hit u suggested I dump in tank
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Old 05-24-2014, 08:54 PM   #6
DNTHATE
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Originally Posted by PatriotJack42 View Post
Thank u DN, I will ck for vacuum leaks etc, what is the name of the $hit u suggested I dump in tank

Here is a link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CI...&robot_redir=1
I've never seen it in stores because it is frowned upon. I'd suggest you do still find the root of the problem as it will save you $$$ in the long run in MPG or repaired that need to be made caused by this.

Here's a link on how to get the ICV out, it's an e39 he's working on but it's all the same. I used carb cleaner instead of break cleaner and I jammed my pinky finger in there to help get the caked on **** off. The ICV controls air going to the engine under 3,000 rpm, so it's at work when they are doing emission tests.


Any word on what the codes mean? I have a guess that one of them is a misfire in cylinder 5.



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Old 05-25-2014, 10:04 AM   #7
markusmarkus
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Make sure you change the oil and filter if you use the CRC stuff from amazon. It'll contaminate your oil as it doesn't burn the same as gasoline.


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Old 05-25-2014, 05:06 PM   #8
PatriotJack42
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Failed Inspt.

Thank U DN and Utters for your input,
I removed the ICV and cleaned thoroughly with carb cleaner IAW the video DN posted TY; getting those 2 clamps lose was a trip; it gives a whole new meaning to persevere, anywho got err done and ran engine; runs fine; then I cleared all the peake error codes E3 E4 oxygen sensor adaption limit, cyl 1-3, 1-4; CA oxygen sensor control limit, cyl 1-3; F2 misfire cyl 5; EE misfire cyl 1. Now because I cleared all the codes with my Peake diagnostic thing I need to put a bunch of miles on it before taking BMW to get inspected; but if the service light comes back on after driving a bunch of miles I would just be wasting my time trying to get said BMW to pass. Next I found the $hit DN told me about in my local wal-mart store; but I have to wait till the end of the month when my annuity ck comes in before I can purchase said can of $hit and fill the gas tank, then hopefully will get my 14 year old 220k BMW though inspt, Hope Rings Eternal! Thank Y'all again I really appreciate all the thoughtful input. PJ
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Originally Posted by DNTHATE View Post
Here is a link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CI...&robot_redir=1
I've never seen it in stores because it is frowned upon. I'd suggest you do still find the root of the problem as it will save you $$$ in the long run in MPG or repaired that need to be made caused by this.

Here's a link on how to get the ICV out, it's an e39 he's working on but it's all the same. I used carb cleaner instead of break cleaner and I jammed my pinky finger in there to help get the caked on **** off. The ICV controls air going to the engine under 3,000 rpm, so it's at work when they are doing emission tests.


Any word on what the codes mean? I have a guess that one of them is a misfire in cylinder 5.



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Old 05-25-2014, 05:12 PM   #9
DNTHATE
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Hopefully the codes stay gone, if not post the ones that come back up and we'll see what we can think of!


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Old 05-25-2014, 05:21 PM   #10
DNTHATE
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In both my 3 series and 5 series every time I had a misfire in cylinder 5 it was because of a vacuum leak, misfire in cylinder 1 I'm not so sure, and I'm guessing the other codes are a result of your problem, I'm sure if you fix the misfires in 1 and 5 the other codes will go away.


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Old 05-25-2014, 08:16 PM   #11
PatriotJack42
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Thanks again, I'll keep y'all posted
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:49 PM   #12
PatriotJack42
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Thanks again, I'll keep y'all posted
Purchased bottle of CRC guaranteed to pass crap; dumped in tank and filled err up; after driving about 20 miles the service engine light came back on (oh crap) and with AC on engine starting hunting, engine would not settle back down to a normal 800 rpm idle; when I would stop with AC on rpm's would go up to 1700 then immediately drop back below 1000 rpm them immediately go up to 1700 rpm this would continue until I shut AC off; with AC off idle would be normal; engine would settle down immediately to 800 rpm with NO rpm hunting; BUT when I put the AC on the rpms at idle would go wacko again. Then I drove about another 20 miles and all of a sudden the service engine light went out and with AC on engine rpm's stop hunting and engine operation with AC on or off engine rpm's went to normal operation and service engine light remains off; I did not think the bottle of CRC engine fix Crap in a bottle was going to fix anything but at this point anything that gets my 220k 323 through inspt is worth a try. I need to put a bunch more miles on it before going to inspection again so there is enough data for mr inspection machine to read. I'm keeping my fingers and feet crossed that the bottle of $hit gets my BMW 323 in the pass zone. Stay tuned!!
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:52 PM   #13
PatriotJack42
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oops

Last edited by PatriotJack42; 05-31-2014 at 12:03 PM. Reason: mistake/duplicate
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:59 AM   #14
wildcat293
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did you ever check the intake boots? this is classic for massive leak at intake boots
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:59 AM   #15
PatriotJack42
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Fail inspt

Yes checked ALL hoses / intake boots -all ok, and the good news is after cleaning that idle valve with the hard to get at clamps and shortly after filling gas tank and dumping in bottle of CRC guaranteed to pass $hit the engine service light went out and remains out and idle with AC on or off settled down to normal with NO rpm hunting; need to drive it a couple more days then have it inspected - so far life is good
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:32 AM   #16
PatriotJack42
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Failed Inspt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PatriotJack42 View Post
Purchased bottle of CRC guaranteed to pass crap; dumped in tank and filled err up; after driving about 20 miles the service engine light came back on (oh crap) and with AC on engine starting hunting, engine would not settle back down to a normal 800 rpm idle; when I would stop with AC on rpm's would go up to 1700 then immediately drop back below 1000 rpm them immediately go up to 1700 rpm this would continue until I shut AC off; with AC off idle would be normal; engine would settle down immediately to 800 rpm with NO rpm hunting; BUT when I put the AC on the rpms at idle would go wacko again. Then I drove about another 20 miles and all of a sudden the service engine light went out and with AC on engine rpm's stop hunting and engine operation with AC on or off engine rpm's went to normal operation and service engine light remains off; I did not think the bottle of CRC engine fix Crap in a bottle was going to fix anything but at this point anything that gets my 220k 323 through inspt is worth a try. I need to put a bunch more miles on it before going to inspection again so there is enough data for mr inspection machine to read. I'm keeping my fingers and feet crossed that the bottle of $hit gets my BMW 323 in the pass zone. Stay tuned!!
6-6-14 last day to pass inspt. before 10 day extension runs out; then we be illegal to operate veh. Service engine light back on and Peake meter numerous faults as follows:
Table 15
F2 - Misfire cyl. # 5
F3 - Misfire cyl. # 6
CC - Idle control system , Idle speed not plausible ?
CA - Oxygen sensor control limit, cyl. # 4-6
E4 - Oxygen sensor adaption limit, cyl. # 4-6
E3 - Oxygen sensor adaption limit, cyl. # 1-3
97 - Pre cat Oxygen sensor short to ground, cyl. # 1-3
9A - Pre cat Oxygen sensor short to ground, cyl. # 4-6
EE - Misfire detected, cyl. # 1
And Engine runs like a Swiss clock, most of the time until at idle after engine warms up all of a sudden engine starts misfiring; then I shut engine off and immediately restart and no more misfiring- engine runs like Swiss clock again.
With engine service light on and ALL those Peake meter test faults I know I'm wasting my time going to get it inspected again. HELP
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:37 PM   #17
DNTHATE
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I'm getting most of what you are getting, o2 sensor, for bank 2, adaption limit, mis in 5 and 6.

Today I took my intake manifold off and found that the vacuum line under the back side of it was completely rotted and broke, replacing that right now as soon as I get some input on how the line runs since my heinous self forgot to look before ripping the line out.

Soooo it's pretty much a one or the other thing in our case, one being something like an air leak is causing the adaptions to max out trying to keep the air/fuel correct. The other would be the air/fuel is fine until the adaption maxes out and that causes your problems.

I've had all my problems on start ups and as soon as I kill the engine and refire it, it'll run like a champ, you seem to have the opposite, but I'm not quite sure if that means your problem is the opposite of mine.

Little to no help post here sorry


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Old 06-06-2014, 04:10 PM   #18
PatriotJack42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNTHATE View Post
I'm getting most of what you are getting, o2 sensor, for bank 2, adaption limit, mis in 5 and 6.

Today I took my intake manifold off and found that the vacuum line under the back side of it was completely rotted and broke, replacing that right now as soon as I get some input on how the line runs since my heinous self forgot to look before ripping the line out.

Soooo it's pretty much a one or the other thing in our case, one being something like an air leak is causing the adaptions to max out trying to keep the air/fuel correct. The other would be the air/fuel is fine until the adaption maxes out and that causes your problems.

I've had all my problems on start ups and as soon as I kill the engine and refire it, it'll run like a champ, you seem to have the opposite, but I'm not quite sure if that means your problem is the opposite of mine.

Little to no help post here sorry


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Thanks for the input DN; I think I have a vacuum problem too; I'm going to remove intake manifold with hopes of seeing something amiss to be continued
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:19 PM   #19
DNTHATE
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Originally Posted by PatriotJack42 View Post
Thanks for the input DN; I think I have a vacuum problem too; I'm going to remove intake manifold with hopes of seeing something amiss to be continued

I think this fixed my problem, the car still stumbled on start up, but not as bad. I tore one of the intake boots getting it off so I have a new vacuum leak, but I'm pretty sure one I get that I'm all good to go.

Check out your intake manifold gaskets while you have the damn thing off, I replaced mine, but I'm sure the ones I pulled would have been ok to put back on, just make sure they are nice and rubbery.


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Old 06-07-2014, 04:04 PM   #20
DNTHATE
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Next time your at home and have a minute get a plastic baggy and put some air in it, start your car, pull off the oil cap and put the baggy over it, there should be a slight vacuum there. Put the cap back on and then pull the dipstick out and do the same


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