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Old 12-15-2004, 09:50 PM   #1
djabaley
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question about wire into doors: rcurley55 - your advice would be good

Ok, so I was browsing the carsound.com boards today, and I ran across rcurley's sound domain page. Of particular interest was this bit about running wires into the doors: http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/656122/3

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Let me say that's the most helpful information I've ever seen about this issue. My question is this...

This is an excellent method. Does anybody have any other ideas? I'm in the final stages of re-doing my system, and I'm tired of compromising and using the factory wire. Also, I already have all of the speaker wire run, so there's no stopping now Any advice?
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Old 12-16-2004, 11:17 AM   #2
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Why don't you and rcurley get a frickin room!



Seriously, what added value does 14 ga wire have over the factory 16 ga? Unless you are powering your mids by a couple of hundred watts, I don't think that there is any value added.

I like the install a lot... especially the PPI Art series amps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by djabaley
Ok, so I was browsing the carsound.com boards today, and I ran across rcurley's sound domain page. Of particular interest was this bit about running wires into the doors: http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/656122/3

Preview:



Let me say that's the most helpful information I've ever seen about this issue. My question is this...

This is an excellent method. Does anybody have any other ideas? I'm in the final stages of re-doing my system, and I'm tired of compromising and using the factory wire. Also, I already have all of the speaker wire run, so there's no stopping now Any advice?
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Old 12-16-2004, 12:45 PM   #3
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haha, this thread is funny - I was going to post my method, but I thought I would wait for a bigger update....

This method will only work with something like a 14ga standard wire. You MIGHT be able to squeeze in two pair of 16 ga, or something larger if you used a Canare StarQuad speaker wire.

This method is so freakin easy it's scary - 15min a door tops.
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Old 12-16-2004, 12:47 PM   #4
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Seriously, what added value does 14 ga wire have over the factory 16 ga? Unless you are powering your mids by a couple of hundred watts, I don't think that there is any value added.
No cutting of factory system. With this method, the car goes back to stock...and the increased size can't hurt.

Quote:
I like the install a lot... especially the PPI Art series amps.
Thanks - I should be done by the first of the year because of all the time off I'll have over the holiday season.
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Old 12-16-2004, 01:11 PM   #5
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bigjae owns me


Basically, when I got the car I didn't have a lot of time to work on it, but I knew that I would quickly grow tired of the factory system. What I did was do about half of the install myself and then use my normal shop to do the other half in terms of fabrication and the like.

Looking back on it now, I'm not happy with some of the compromises both I and they made. I just want djabaley's system version 2 to be the best I could muster.

Also, I already ran the speaker wire - so it's full speed ahead damn it.
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Old 12-16-2004, 03:10 PM   #6
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Djabaley,

haha.

rcurley,

I know you have told me about the liquid glass stuff you used on your head unit trim. Where do I get it from and how does it work? Is it like pourable bondo?
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Old 12-16-2004, 03:13 PM   #7
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I didn't use liquid glass - that's something that tim ballie (www.hzemall.com) uses.

I used something from evercoat called icing - comes in a tube or can - pink label. I also used ultimate bondo and dynaglas
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Old 12-16-2004, 03:27 PM   #8
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Sorry, I meant the dynaglas.
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Old 12-16-2004, 03:30 PM   #9
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dynaglas works just like bondo, only it's stronger b/c it has glass fibers in it. you can get it all kinds of places - i have tapplastics.com local to me. Just mix in the hardener and you are good to go.

I use it for structural things - like building up thickness in parts that are for trim only that I have fleeced, or to fill gaps in parts. It's pretty strong, but you get lots of air bubbles with it, and it doesn't spread very smooth - it's what I start with if I need to build up.

check out the build ups of alpine's demo cars, yato and brown live by the stuff...
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Old 12-16-2004, 04:24 PM   #10
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Combine dynaglass with fiberglass resin, and you get a speadable, sandable, evenly coated mixture. Use the liquid MEK hardener, and this stuff is incredible!

Extremely versatile!

We use it to line subwoofer enclosures, and for any application where smooth, evenly distributed strength is required.


For dash pieces, while it isn't necessary to use dynaglass, it certainly never hurts.

Chassis flex will crrrrraccckkk your dash pieces if they aren't up to par!!
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Old 12-16-2004, 04:42 PM   #11
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intersting idea jason.....I like to add cab-o-sil filler to resin to make it a bit thicker - it's great for spreading on the outside/inside of a fiberglass part - self leveling - makes a flat surface, and would seal the box perfectly.
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Old 12-16-2004, 05:58 PM   #12
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Another great thing about that mixture is that after you have made your initial mold for the enclosure, you can just pour it in like soup and slosh it around in there.

About 3 minutes later, its evenly distributed, and you can begin builing up your layers from the inside.

Very time efficient. We can get together a complete mold of the spare tire well, fabricate the enclosure, start to finish: two hours! Including covering the enclosure and loading it with a woofer!!

Give it a try. Just mix it until it is the consistency of really thick soup.

Don't forget that respirator!
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Old 12-16-2004, 06:00 PM   #13
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are you suggesting to lay down the first layer of glass, then this concoction, only to follow up with more glass?
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Old 12-16-2004, 06:09 PM   #14
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No. What you do is frame your creation. Stretch mold fabric over it. Resin the mold fabric. Allow it to dry. Resin the mold fabric again, from the top.

Now, make the "concoction", and begin to build up your layers internally.

This eliminates all that crazy sanding of dynaglass, which SUCKS!!!

Just keep building up internal layers using the "concoction", and you're done in no time!!

Of course you'll still need to use some spray bondo on the surface to smooth things over, but you'll spend a minimum amount of time breezing through that with some 120 grit!!
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Old 12-16-2004, 06:31 PM   #15
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No. What you do is frame your creation. Stretch mold fabric over it. Resin the mold fabric. Allow it to dry. Resin the mold fabric again, from the top.

Now, make the "concoction", and begin to build up your layers internally.

This eliminates all that crazy sanding of dynaglass, which SUCKS!!!

Just keep building up internal layers using the "concoction", and you're done in no time!!

Of course you'll still need to use some spray bondo on the surface to smooth things over, but you'll spend a minimum amount of time breezing through that with some 120 grit!!
nahhh, not my cup of tea...

I prefer to stretch my fleece, then let cure for 24. once cured, I apply layers to the rear of knytex....I'd never use any kind of concoction like that for a structural part (i.e. part of a sub box). I could see that for a trim piece, but not for structure.

I never apply fiberglass directly to the "show" side unless absolutely necessary...
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