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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-03-2007, 03:31 PM   #41
schnejerator
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I was unable to get my fan assembly off the water pump - a stubborn @$^# to say the least, but as dflteam pointed out there is another way.

I only have so many saturday afternoons, so off to the mechanic it will go...
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:52 PM   #42
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Just another reason to get a manual tranny, the fan is stupid easy to get off!

Did mine today, this was easier and cheaper than the stupid final stage resistor I also had to replace today. I did not drain the block, only the radiator. Didn't have a drop come out of the hoses so you really only need to do a full drain if you want to replace all the coolant.

It is notable that the coolant hoses come off much easier if you completely remove the clips. Not sure if it supposed to make a difference, but for me it did. The seal on my old stat was pretty much disintegrated. Wish I had a plastic brush or something to clean the gunk off the block, I used my finger nails and a paper towel to do the best I could.

Bentley doesn't list a torque for the stat bolts. I did 7 ft-lbs because thats what it listed for the M3. Even that felt like I was pushing it though.

One nice additional benefit is my MPG seems to have jumped a lot. Maybe it was just running at a really inefficient temp before because I was getting 22.5MPG on the OBC. After a 15 mile drive it was on 28MPG. We'll see if this holds through the week when I get do my ussual commute.
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Old 04-06-2007, 08:36 PM   #43
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Stupid easy?

Okay I have to say the actual changing out of the thermostat here is very easy but getting the fan and the shroud out was a royal pain in the ass. I must have been doing it the hard way because it took most of the two hours to do this just to get the fan off. who the hell designed that shroud to be one piece, ****ing idiot. So i managed to get enough room to get my hand in front of the fan by moving the shroud back while i unscrewed the three bolts holding the fan to the clutch. then it came out no problem... but getting the fan bolted back on was difficult.
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Old 04-13-2007, 11:58 AM   #44
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Taking the fan off on mine was the longest part of the job! Tighter than a MOFO with two of us pushing/pulling on the wrench/clutch fan tool!

Those of u who did it in 3 mins are bloody lucky!!
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Old 04-13-2007, 11:17 PM   #45
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So the fan tool and a 32mm thin wrench are a must? WOudl a serpentine belt tool that Sears sell work as the fan clutch tool
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Old 04-26-2007, 12:59 AM   #46
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just as a reminder, if you are getting close to 100K miles, go ahead and replace the hoses too, better safe than sorry. By the way, getting the hose that goes from thermo to the bottom of the radiator off took me about an hour and a half when I did it, total PITA. Why--I have no idea, I pulled and pushed and levered the thing to death, I even cut the hose off of the connector, but finally, it just nearly fell off as if to taunt me for all the time I spent trying to get it off......
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:38 PM   #47
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My 2001 330Ci (94k) SES light came on recently and sure enough its a P0128, Operating Below Normal Temp, which means that my thermostat is stuck open. After reading this thread I am confident I can DIY, but have a few questions:

1. Which thermostat is better - Whaler or Behr?
2. Where should I order it from?
3. What tools do I need?
4. Is it a good idea to also replace the water pump/hoses?

I would sincerely appreciate it if anyone in Cincinnati (Florence, KY) has the tools/time to help.
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:42 PM   #48
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I just recently replaced my t-stat and I couldnt have done it without the fan wrench tool i purchased from bimmertools.com. I had a hard time trying to get the fan nut loose because I didnt have the right tools. I'd recommend their site to buy the tools you need to replace your t-stat and/or water pump if you choose to.

GO GOLDENSTATE WARRIORS!!!
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:54 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by dashoshot View Post
I just recently replaced my t-stat and I couldnt have done it without the fan wrench tool i purchased from bimmertools.com. I had a hard time trying to get the fan nut loose because I didnt have the right tools. I'd recommend their site to buy the tools you need to replace your t-stat and/or water pump if you choose to.

GO GOLDENSTATE WARRIORS!!!
That fan wrench is also the same type used in bikes. But the most important part is that, that wrench is only needed for those with automatics. Manuals don't have two fans.
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:34 PM   #50
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yea i forgot to mention that. my bad.... my bad
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:14 AM   #51
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does anyone know what's the torque spec. for the 4 thermostat bolts ~ ( 3 x M6 & 1 x M8 ) ?
I don't see it listed in the E46 Bentley service book either !


THX in advance

PS: NOT the engine block drain plug to block 25NM or radiator drain plug to radiator 2-3NM ! but the termostat bolts itself ?
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Old 05-11-2007, 11:33 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by UK Beemer View Post
Taking the fan off on mine was the longest part of the job! Tighter than a MOFO with two of us pushing/pulling on the wrench/clutch fan tool! Those of u who did it in 3 mins are bloody lucky!!
The trick to doing this is to put the 32 mm wrench on the nut positioned at about 12:30 and use a metal hammer (NOT a rubber mallet) to give it a couple whacks down and to the right (toward the driver's side in the US or pax side UK). This acts like an impact wrench and will loosen the fan in 2-3 hits, typically. No water pump holding tool is required to remove the fan unless the belt is not installed for some reason.

That technique works for reinstalling the fan as well...except you'll need about 10 good whacks to achieve the desired torque...keeping in mind, of course, that rotation of the wrench means nothing in terms of torque in this case since the pulley WILL slip a bit under the belt with each whack. You'll need to reseat the wrench on the fan nut several times for this reason.

You can confirm you're tightening it properly by loosening it again. If it breaks loose in 2-3 hits, you're on the mark. Definitely make sure the fan is tight, though. If it's loose, it can further loosen if you rev high and let off the gas quickly. My tech told me of a case where that happened (not to him, but another DIYer) and it created a lot of collateral damage.

-Doug
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Old 05-11-2007, 03:38 PM   #53
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Quote:
1. Which thermostat is better - Whaler or Behr?
Wahler
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Old 05-11-2007, 05:23 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by GRIDLOCK View Post
Wahler


I'll vote for Behr. Wahlers last about a year on my car.
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Old 05-12-2007, 08:51 AM   #55
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IIRC Behr is the replacement brand unit that went on mine for the emissions recall - I believe it replaced a Wahler.

Mark
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:32 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwvcfii View Post
The trick to doing this is to put the 32 mm wrench on the nut positioned at about 12:30 and use a metal hammer (NOT a rubber mallet) to give it a couple whacks down and to the right (toward the driver's side in the US or pax side UK). This acts like an impact wrench and will loosen the fan in 2-3 hits, typically. No water pump holding tool is required to remove the fan unless the belt is not installed for some reason.

That technique works for reinstalling the fan as well...except you'll need about 10 good whacks to achieve the desired torque...keeping in mind, of course, that rotation of the wrench means nothing in terms of torque in this case since the pulley WILL slip a bit under the belt with each whack. You'll need to reseat the wrench on the fan nut several times for this reason.

You can confirm you're tightening it properly by loosening it again. If it breaks loose in 2-3 hits, you're on the mark. Definitely make sure the fan is tight, though. If it's loose, it can further loosen if you rev high and let off the gas quickly. My tech told me of a case where that happened (not to him, but another DIYer) and it created a lot of collateral damage.

-Doug

Thanks for the tips...I can't wait to get back in a stick anyway though!
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:18 AM   #57
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I just bought a Wahler from BMW to replace a Behr that had 90K on it and was still going strong. The Behr had lots of metal, the Wahler was mostly plastic. Go for the Behr.
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Old 05-17-2007, 02:31 PM   #58
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Seems like Behr is what I should go with. What's the best place to order it from?
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Old 05-20-2007, 09:11 PM   #59
elbee
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You can check the sponsers of the forum to see if they have it. I think alleurasianautoparts.com might have it too.
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:32 PM   #60
BrianLeveille
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All,

I followed the 'easy' route and did not drain the radiator or the block. I just removed the fan (I have an electric fan, so that took 60 seconds to remove), removed the thermostat (some fluid came out), unclipped and removed the hoses, then reversed it all when installing the new thermostat. Took less than 1 hour.

My question: I didn't bleed the coolant system after doing this. Do I now have air bubbles in my coolant system? Can I just bleed the system to remove any bubbles?

Thanks,

-BL

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stock323iSaloon View Post
Silroc, this is easy DIY. I cheated by not draining the entire block - just unclipped the 2 radiator hoses from the therm unit and them topped the fluid up later. Refer to some posts that I have put in, this shouldn't take you more than 30min. the pic attached has some questions on it but that was just me trying to get help from thsi forum. all u need to do to remove the nunit is to remove the metal clips using a flat screw driver, pull the hoses off, unscrew the 4 bolts from the therm and you're done
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