could use some camshaft sensor help

Is the bolt of the Torx standard (i.e. t-30)? Or is it Hex standard? I wanna make sure that I don't strip my bolt. If it's torx, what's the right size number torx bit I should use? Or if hex, what size should I use?

This is crazy I just got the P1397 code also. Looks like I know where to look now! Thanks

Originally Posted by asiangear

Is the bolt of the Torx standard (i.e. t-30)? Or is it Hex standard? I wanna make sure that I don't strip my bolt. If it's torx, what's the right size number torx bit I should use? Or if hex, what size should I use?

It's a regular hex-head bolt. It's been a while, I want to say it is a 10mm? Might be smaller...

Tighten the bolt to 3.5 ft-lb when you reinstall it.

Originally Posted by slow323ci

It's a regular hex-head bolt. It's been a while, I want to say it is a 10mm? Might be smaller...

Tighten the bolt to 3.5 ft-lb when you reinstall it.

I tried using a 5mm allen key and it seems to be a loose fit, but the next size up, 5.5mm, is too big for it. Is it ok for the allen key to be a little loose and not snug? Will it strip the bolt if I use it when the key is somewhat loose fit? Also how would i know when 3.5 ft-lb is met? The standard drive ratchet doesn't have torque settings. Thanks again slow323ci for your help!

Originally Posted by asiangear

I tried using a 5mm allen key and it seems to be a loose fit, but the next size up, 5.5mm, is too big for it. Is it ok for the allen key to be a little loose and not snug? Will it strip the bolt if I use it when the key is somewhat loose fit? Also how would i know when 3.5 ft-lb is met? The standard drive ratchet doesn't have torque settings. Thanks again slow323ci for your help!

If it's a little loose that should be OK, since the bolt should not be very tight. 3.5 ft-lb is just a little tighter than you could make it with your fingers.

You can get a simple torque wrench from Sears for under $20. It's handy for stuff like this, or for changing spark plugs. Good for pretty much any bolts on the car except the wheel bolts.

Ok, I just went around shopping at all my local auto part stores, Sears, and Home Depot. I bought and tested all different types of hex and torx drive bits. After testing each type of drive bit, I have discovered that the Torx T-30 size drive bit works the best with minimal stripping; it still stripped the screw "just a little bit" (pardon the 50-cent reference). It gave the snuggest fit (even though not perfect) compared to the other Torx and the Hex drive bits.

As for the OBD II scan, after I install the new sensor, I assume I have to reset my OBD II computer. I went ahead and used my OBD II scanner to reset it. So if the problem is diagnosed correctly (P1397 exhaust camshaft position sensor), after all the diagnostic sensors have run through their tests, I should not see an error code anymore, right? I am not sure if this is normal, but after I reset my OBD computer and use the scanner again, the scanner shows that all the diagnostic sensors in their scanning phase, yet I still get the "MIL ON" indicator on the scanner. Once the sensors all clear their diagnostics, should this "MIL ON" icon on my scanner disappear or does it mean that there is still a problem even before all diagnostics have run? FYI, P1397 is the only code that my OBD II lists. I really hope I got the right part and fixed the right problem >_< Thanks again. Good night, and good luck! ^^

The OBDII scanner should clear the code and turn off the MIL on the dashboard. Then the OBD system has to complete its various readiness tests before you can be tested for emissions.

As far as what any specific scanner will read after reset I really don't know. Mine shows no codes and all the readiness flags as unset.

Originally Posted by slow323ci

The OBDII scanner should clear the code and turn off the MIL on the dashboard. Then the OBD system has to complete its various readiness tests before you can be tested for emissions.

As far as what any specific scanner will read after reset I really don't know. Mine shows no codes and all the readiness flags as unset.

Yeah, the SES light in dashboard isn't on, but I figure after a reset, it turns it off until all readiness sensors complete their diagnostics. What brand of scanner are you using? By "unset", do you mean they have completed their tests? I have the Innova 3030 CANOBDII scanner. Does erasing the codes from the OBD II counts as resetting, or do I need another device to do that?

Originally Posted by asiangear

Yeah, the SES light in dashboard isn't on, but I figure after a reset, it turns it off until all readiness sensors complete their diagnostics. What brand of scanner are you using? By "unset", do you mean they have completed their tests? I have the Innova 3030 CANOBDII scanner. Does erasing the codes from the OBD II counts as resetting, or do I need another device to do that?

The MIL will turn on again even if the readiness routines have not completed if there is still a triggering malfunction. By "unset" I mean that the readiness tests have not yet been completed.

Erasing the error codes is what is meant by resetting.

I use Auterra OBDII software and cable with my Palm Tungsten|T handheld. www.auterraweb.com

Originally Posted by slow323ci

Yes. P0369 = exhaust camshaft position sensor intermittent. All the DIY info you need is under the photo.

Slow, can you repost the DIY and photo? It doesn't seem to be up anymore...I too just got the P0369 code. thanks.

Originally Posted by belaire46

Slow, can you repost the DIY and photo? It doesn't seem to be up anymore...I too just got the P0369 code. thanks.

It's the #2 post on page 1 of this thread. Maybe my server was down for a little while or something, but it seems ok now

a newb question, but how do i unclip the wires? i'm guessing that i just push on the two tabs and pull?