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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-02-2010, 12:45 PM   #101
Chocolate Lab
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Thanks for the reply, and yes, I meant to buy an OE part (sorry for the wrong term there).... Only got used because this is an old car I mean to sell, and need to fix this first. But I did want to fix it properly, which is why I was trying to avoid the aftermarket part.

So I should get an OEM part... That would be ideal as I'm sure it would be less than the $125 or whatever it would be from a dealer, but still reliable. I don't even know who makes these... Is it Bosch there as well?

Sorry for the noob questions. Changing my oil is normally about as far as I go on working on my car.

Last edited by Chocolate Lab; 09-02-2010 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 09-03-2010, 02:40 AM   #102
honkifyoubonk
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is this the same location for a 325ci?
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:10 AM   #103
OrientBlau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chocolate Lab View Post
Thanks for the reply, and yes, I meant to buy an OE part (sorry for the wrong term there).... Only got used because this is an old car I mean to sell, and need to fix this first. But I did want to fix it properly, which is why I was trying to avoid the aftermarket part.

So I should get an OEM part... That would be ideal as I'm sure it would be less than the $125 or whatever it would be from a dealer, but still reliable. I don't even know who makes these... Is it Bosch there as well?

Sorry for the noob questions. Changing my oil is normally about as far as I go on working on my car.
Yeah, then it sounds like maybe aftermarket or something used from a junk yard would suffice, if you are just prepping it for sale. I wouldnt spend on an OEM part if youre not gonna keep the car.
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:29 AM   #104
M3GAPL3X
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Hi guys,

Did this DIY today. I used a 32.77 mm max Crescent wrench from Lowes to get the Vanos solenoid off. I would like to add that removing the oil filter cover and oil filter made things a lot easier. In addition, I un-bolted the ATF fluid housing so I could move it around to get my arms in there to get to the sensor.

Took me about an hour and the hardest part was routing the wire for the CPS sensor. It's really tight in there. The Vanos solenoid came off pretty easy.

Make sure to use Loctite 221 (blue Loctite) on the threads of the camshaft position sensor 5 mm hex bolt. This can be picked up from Lowes as well. It takes 10 minutes to set but takes 24 hours to cure.

More info here:
http://www.reyher.de/download/Techni...octite_221.pdf

Thanks for this DIY. Saved a lot of money!
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:53 PM   #105
l8apex10
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Nice write-up - just completed the job and found this to be quite helpful.


Additional notes:

1) I purchased the cam sensor and bolt from the local dealer. If doing in the future, would recommend replacing the VANOS seal and crush washers for the oil line at the same time while you have it apart.

2) I removed the oil line, oil filter cannister and entire airbox assembly without any issues, this greatly simplified access. While it was apart, cleaned the MAF. Also, this would be good time to do an oil change to save on the mess.

3) I did not touch the breather tube to the valve cover gasket after seeing issues with damage noted by others - access was not an issue

4) I used a bent wire coat hanger to pull the new sensor wiring harness down to the connection point - it's pretty tight working in that area
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:56 AM   #106
tincup33
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Just did this today, holy crap what a difference. The longest part of this process for me happened to be when I was pulling out the old sensor, the part that plugs in got wedged. This took me about 10 minutes to unwedge. The rest went very quickly ~45 minutes (20 minutes waiting for the blue loctite to set).

I was able to do this without messing with the oil filter so that was cool.

Thank you for the pics!!!!
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Old 06-05-2011, 12:50 AM   #107
Mr_aaron_brown
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Great do it your self thread, two thumbs up.....took about an hour and saved 300 bucks.
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:40 AM   #108
John in VA
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Did the exhaust & intake sensors today. Much help from this DIY and http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ght=cam+sensor
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Old 10-15-2011, 04:27 PM   #109
anhtu402
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This DYI was a life saver to my engine troubles (shutting off around 800 rpms), car feels a lot better!!
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:18 AM   #110
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I need to do this this weekend.
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:58 PM   #111
G$_
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HELP.
Everything looks good, until I bought the replacement part in three different stores, the camshaft sensor tip looks different.
.
Mine looks like this (notice the tip ... its smaller at the end and thicker where the ring is):
.

.
All replacement parts (OEM and not OEM) look like this, the part where the ring is, is one size.
.

.
HELP
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:28 PM   #112
GG323i
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Great DIY, was getting the p0340 code with a misfire code. I changed the intake CPS last night. Only took about 30 minutes with small 5mm allen did not even need to remove filter/cover.

Car runs better not slugish no stalling, but the p0340 code returned late today???? I installed the Autohaus sensor by Meyel pt# 12 12 1 438 081. Should I do the exhaust side too?
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:16 AM   #113
Kirk330i
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This may or may not be my issue (cam sensor) but I'm at my wits end with this problem (been posting for days in another forum). Here's the scenario:
1) The car ('01 330i) starts to a rough idle when cold (it's been in the hi 30's around here lately) but smoothes out to a nice idle as it warms up. Just feels like a miss when cold.
2) As I accelerate away from a stop there is some vibration of the engine around 1500-2000 rpm (and a little vibration above that).
3) At cruising speed (let's say above 65) it runs great. Pulls well with no real problems (many of the freeways here, SF Bay Area, are pretty bad so it's had to feel any extra vibrations).
4) Upon decelerating to a stop, or coasting, at about 2000 rpm, it vibrates a lot! (On the other post, I likened it to the sound of a jake brake on a diesel truck). If I push in the clutch, the vibration stops (as the rpm go to 750, idle) so I don't think it's any of the running gear.
5) No codes set at all, just this stinkin' vibration! It seems really odd that something this pronounced would not set any codes.

I had a small vacuum leak a few months ago at the DISA valve interface to the intake. It made it run rough, kind of like this, but I sealed it up and all had been well until a week ago. I've scoured the engine bay for any vacuum leaks, none found. I've checked the coils (per some other feedback since they've never been replaced). All ok. Cleaned the IAC valve, it was a little sooty but not too bad. Cleaned the MAF sensor, pulled a spark plug, have gone over all I can think of that might cause a vibration without setting any codes. Other people have suggested changing the oil separator (looks like a PITA to change) since I'm still running the original but I can't find any definitive test on whether or not it would be bad.

My questions is, has anyone encountered this before and if so, do you think a cam sensor might cause this without setting a code? I'm getting near the point of actually taking the car to a dealer (heaven forbid, I would much rather do it myself). Help!
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:55 PM   #114
Dizzydelli
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Thanks so much for the write up. I searched a few different threads to figure this out since I could not find a DIY video for my specific car. I did watch a video just to familiarize myself with the names of different parts I've never heard of (yes, because I'm a woman, and I don't normally work on cars)! This took me about 2 hours, mainly because the oil filter lid was in the way and I didn't have a 36mm wrench to take it off. The allen wrench was too long and the space was real tight to get it turned to the next notch when removing the sensor. I was afraid I would strip the inside of the bolt. So I just went very slow and got it off.

I had no problem getting the vanos solenoid off. I did completely remove the air box, such a sinch (just two more bolts). I don't know How I would have ever been able to see, nor snake the new cable in with that air box still there.

My check engine light was not illuminated once I fired it back up and my car runs GREAT! I've put 85 miles on it (both hwy and through town)...no problems. THANKS SO MUCH!! (I'm copying this to the other thread I referred to as well).
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:08 PM   #115
spennI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzydelli View Post
Thanks so much for the write up. I searched a few different threads to figure this out since I could not find a DIY video for my specific car. I did watch a video just to familiarize myself with the names of different parts I've never heard of (yes, because I'm a woman, and I don't normally work on cars)! This took me about 2 hours, mainly because the oil filter lid was in the way and I didn't have a 36mm wrench to take it off. The allen wrench was too long and the space was real tight to get it turned to the next notch when removing the sensor. I was afraid I would strip the inside of the bolt. So I just went very slow and got it off.

I had no problem getting the vanos solenoid off. I did completely remove the air box, such a sinch (just two more bolts). I don't know How I would have ever been able to see, nor snake the new cable in with that air box still there.

My check engine light was not illuminated once I fired it back up and my car runs GREAT! I've put 85 miles on it (both hwy and through town)...no problems. THANKS SO MUCH!! (I'm copying this to the other thread I referred to as well).
Congrats Dizzy: Dig in. You can do more on these cars than you think (even as a woman).
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:38 PM   #116
stefano
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BIG THANKS !!! pigeon, demon eyes, and E46fanatics.....wouldn't have known where to start without the great write up and pics......
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:19 AM   #117
wacuna
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Easy DIY just one very IMPORTANT observation

Took me 30 min to do this DIY, the problem is I used a cheap aftermark part and the car had problems starting... do yourself a favor and buy OE or OEM. I had to re do it, now car is working properly. Thanks...
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:26 AM   #118
steve.k
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Big respect for this DIY. Only one thing, I didn't have any loctight, I used that really thin white tape you use for sinks and stuff. Is that ok?
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:26 AM   #119
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Bump! ^
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:38 AM   #120
Chocolate Lab
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JMO, but I don't think I would use plumbers tape... That's a lot different from loctite. Plumbers tape is more so the junction doesn't leak, right? While the loctite is to keep the heat and vibration from working the connection loose over time. But I'm no expert.

And since this thread was bumped and I had some old posts in it -- funny reading my own posts because I obviously didn't know anything then -- after I posted the questions above I did a lot of searching and reading, and did my cooling system, then about a month later did the CPS. I ended up not using the lousy aftermarket part I naively bought -- instead I put in an OEM model from oembimmerparts. It worked perfectly. The cooling system was a lot bigger job, but routing that CPS wire though those tight spaces to get it plugged in was more frustrating than any single part of the cooling system job IMO. Still not hard, just tedious.

And for the record, I didn't sell my car but in fact am still driving it... Over 15k miles later up to 176k and it's running great.
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