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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 07-22-2006, 01:40 PM   #61
shurpa14
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a little help

I have a 2000 328i, and I've just ordered the FSR. I see the FSR, but that thing in front is blocking it. When I loosen those two screws on the FSR, will the part in front of the FSR loosen up as well? Thanks, and I can't wait to have air. Mine only comes on 30% of the time and it's HOT.
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:30 PM   #62
nEVERCLEAR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shurpa14
I have a 2000 328i, and I've just ordered the FSR. I see the FSR, but that thing in front is blocking it. When I loosen those two screws on the FSR, will the part in front of the FSR loosen up as well? Thanks, and I can't wait to have air. Mine only comes on 30% of the time and it's HOT.

From memory there are 4 screws, 2 hold the thing on the front on and 2 hold the FSR in place.
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:39 PM   #63
kmw
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just did it this weekend. there are 2 t20 screws holding the part in front of the fsr. one screw is accessible from below the air duct and the other is accessible from above the air duct. make sure you have a long skinney screw driver. once you remove this part the fsr is just press fitted on ....... mine did not have any screws holding the fsr in place.. (however many people have said that there are screws holding it in place...i guess it depends on year model)
mine did not have any screws on there... just a clip holding it in place.

but to answer your question ... once you get the first 2 screws out ..... the part in front of the fsr can be moved out of the way (not completely though)


P.S. thanks to whoever wrote the writeup..... it helped alot. and saved me some cash.
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:06 PM   #64
nEVERCLEAR
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Looking at this picture you can see the screw still in the FSR and an empty screw hole.


It seems like they are all the same so I dont think some have screws and some dont. It is weird some have 2 and some have 4 screws. I'm not disagreeing with anyone just mentioning that if you are having trouble removing the FSR you might want to look and see if there are any other forgotten screws. I know it is hard to see in there so any info seems like a good thing.
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Old 07-24-2006, 09:25 PM   #65
kmw
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it was the exact same as the picture you posted ...except no screws ..... the only thing holding it in place is the black plastic clip (exactly to the left of the screw in the picture you posted).

i did some additional research before i started work and it seems like most people with 325/330's did not have screws holding it and many people with 328's did.

also .... i think all e46's use the same part number so its the exact same part too

cheers.
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Old 08-07-2006, 08:36 AM   #66
Chatsubo
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Hey guys, removed my FSR this weekend, some notes...

My blower never did the cycling thing, blowing full force, etc. It just completely stopped working one day, regardless of the display. Turning on/off repeatedly, etc. It's just plain dead. Should I still considder the FSR to be the likely cause? (which is what I'm doing at present)

I'm from South Africa so I have an European version, Right hand drive car. (2001 318i)

In this car (as I discovered this past weekend) the FSR is NOT on the glovebox side, but on the steering wheel side. It seems like one of those things that doesn't get mirrored. I was in there scratching my head looking for the damn thing for ages before I realised you guys have left-handed cars. (I'm such an idiot). My neck still hurts because I had to depress the clutch using my head to be able to see the top torx screw. But finally got the damn thing out.

So, anyway, I have the old one out now, but haven't bought a new one. Since I'm not 100% on the diagnosis yet. And I'm thinking, since it's just a set of resistors, one should be able to measure the resistances between the pins on a good one, then compare with a bad one, and viola! A dead simple diagnosis. Anyone wanna post the readings on a good FSR? Or is this not a fool-proof test?
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Old 08-08-2006, 01:00 AM   #67
CortinaD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chatsubo
Hey guys, removed my FSR this weekend, some notes...

My blower never did the cycling thing, blowing full force, etc. It just completely stopped working one day, regardless of the display. Turning on/off repeatedly, etc. It's just plain dead. Should I still considder the FSR to be the likely cause? (which is what I'm doing at present)

I'm from South Africa so I have an European version, Right hand drive car. (2001 318i)

In this car (as I discovered this past weekend) the FSR is NOT on the glovebox side, but on the steering wheel side. It seems like one of those things that doesn't get mirrored. I was in there scratching my head looking for the damn thing for ages before I realised you guys have left-handed cars. (I'm such an idiot). My neck still hurts because I had to depress the clutch using my head to be able to see the top torx screw. But finally got the damn thing out.

So, anyway, I have the old one out now, but haven't bought a new one. Since I'm not 100% on the diagnosis yet. And I'm thinking, since it's just a set of resistors, one should be able to measure the resistances between the pins on a good one, then compare with a bad one, and viola! A dead simple diagnosis. Anyone wanna post the readings on a good FSR? Or is this not a fool-proof test?
Mine also stopped completely in the end man

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...2&postcount=14
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:56 PM   #68
devm635csi
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Just swapped out my FSR - fixed up the problem right away. The instructions and advice in this thread were spot on. 6 screws on the glove box, remove the footwell lighting panel (and all lighting harnesses). Picked up a 6" T20 screwdriver from Sears on the advice of a previous fanatic and was able to reach the 2 T20 screws holding the part in front of the FSR. Did not remove the hose in front of everything so it was tight and, depending on how agile you are, you're flying blind when deal with that upper screw. Push the part out of the way and grab some needlenose pliars to yank out the old FSR. Used a flat-head to pry back the clip holding in the FSR (no screws holding the FSR itself, I have a 2001 330xi). The new FSR is shorter (thank God cuz it's tight in there) but everything fits back perfectly.

I'm usually shy about tearing into the car but this was definitely doable. All-in-all about an hour of sweat. Like everyone else said, it's the position you have to be in that makes it challenging. I was outside the car on the ground leaning into the footwell on my back. Do yourself a favor and get a small flashlight you can either clip somewhere or keep in your teeth - you'll need both hands. One last tip - when you test the new FSR before sealing everything back up, watch out - they didn't put all those cooling fins on it for looks. After just 15 or 20 seconds of running the fan it was just barely touchable.

FYI - I had the varying fan speed symptoms for a couple weeks but fortunately I didn't wait until it died completely. Picked up the part at Pelican Parts w/free shipping - around $78 total.

Thank you!!!

Last edited by devm635csi; 08-25-2006 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 09-01-2006, 11:37 AM   #69
zuluzu
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Cool Ordered the FSR

Encouraged by so many successful DIY attempts on this I thought i will give it a try myself. My fan/blower has been in that 'random' mode for about a week. I have never done anything (except yanked out the blinkers and replaced the bulb using instructions in another board) myself on my car. So all these instructions and experiences will be definitely helpful when i do this thing next week.. Will keep a printout of the entire discussion with photos handy. Ordered my FSR from Pelican parts as somebody suggested. I hope it is the right one called - Final Stage Unit at Pelican parts.. $82.27 including taxes. Wish me luck!!!

Oh yeah.. got to this wonderful site from a response of Evan Slater athttp://experts.about.com/q/BMW-Repair-805/. Thanks Evan!!
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Old 09-02-2006, 08:54 PM   #70
jgrover2b
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I replaced my final stage resistor today following most of your instructions and my fan seems to be operating perfectly. It appears to me that the orignial resistor heat exchanger fins didn't have enough surface area and it overheats. The replacement resistor should run much cooler.

Here's a couple of notes that might help others:
First - remove the ventilation duct. Just pull on it and it will come free. I know this is a tough sell for most do it yourselfers, but I read another web page that said it would come free and being 60 years old and 20 pounds over weight there's no way I was going to get at those screws before freezing in position. The duct mates up easily when you reinstall and a perfect match isn't necessary since it simply directs air to the floor.

Secondly, the little gizmo that you have to remove is the recirculation damper control. Just be careful to note the position of the control arm before you move it and return it to the same spot.
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Old 09-13-2006, 02:47 AM   #71
ACSchnitzer3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chatsubo View Post
Hey guys, removed my FSR this weekend, some notes...


In this car (as I discovered this past weekend) the FSR is NOT on the glovebox side, but on the steering wheel side. It seems like one of those things that doesn't get mirrored. I was in there scratching my head looking for the damn thing for ages before I realised you guys have left-handed cars. (I'm such an idiot). My neck still hurts because I had to depress the clutch using my head to be able to see the top torx screw. But finally got the damn thing out.
Just completed this fix last night,, and like Chatsubo I have a RHD BMW - Man, talk about awkward. Getting that top torx screw out was a nightmare with the steering column in the way.Actually the Torx screws were T15's and not T20's as others have reported. Tough enough to get in there also with the clutch pedal stuck in the side of your head. Having said that, the fix is done and dusted and took a little over 2 hours including breaks to stop all the blood rushing to my head.

Although the write up was for a LHD, it show me exactly what I was looking for and where to find it. FSR replaced and AC working perfect. Top Notch DIY

For anyone doing this on a right hand drive car, it is not possible to see the top Torx screw holding the solenoid bracket in place. If you can carefully remove the solenoid (bottom piece of it first and then pop the top part off the bracket, careful not to lose the motor cog or the spring) you should be able to get a better visual of the FSR and it will make it much easier to unlplug the harness. At the top of the solenoid bracket you should be able to feel 2 plastic fins. If you run your finger down between these fins you find find the Torx screw at the end. Run your Torx driver down this groove and gently move the tip of the torx driver until it sits into the screw and away you go. When putting it back in use a magnetised torx driver or you'll never get it on the threads. Alos be extremely careful when re-assembling the solenoid, there is only one right way to do this: Place the top part of the solenoid into the bracket and click it into place. Then carefully slide the shaft of the motor (Bottom part of solenoid) into the cogs above until it clicks into place with the mechanism. This might require you to squeeze the 2 parts together a little to make the clips catch.
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Old 09-16-2006, 02:45 PM   #72
zuluzu
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Done!!! but after dedicating my flashlight to the AC duct

well, i guess i am not that good at DIYers. The success came after 6 hours, 2 badly scratched knuckles and a gallon of sweat.

One mistake to avoid, if you can do it without removing the AC ducting blocking the FSR, do that. I tried to get it done a little easy, my flashlight fell into the ducting going down into the center and it is tight and deep in there. Two fat fingers tried to grab it but it kept pushing it deeper and deeper. Knuckles were scraped to half their thickness - well almost. But finally after spending 2-3 hours doing that, i decided to leave it there.. and get the job completed. as everybody else mentioned the top torx screw is the painful part.

But my blower is fine and 'controllable' now. Thanks for all the great instructions.
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:45 PM   #73
Euclid537
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Where's the cheapest place to order one of these from?
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:12 PM   #74
twistedangel
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This is an awesome DIY. Thx.

for the record (if anyone is keeping track of models affected) mine is a 2000 328i w/ 75K mi.

Also, my climate control just switched to Celsius from Fahrenheit before this happened... anyone know how/why this happened?? Do I have to take it to the dealer to fix the settings?? TIA
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Old 10-19-2006, 01:39 PM   #75
archdog99
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Not bad...but not easy

Awesome DIY by the way and without the instructions on page 1 i would have been lost. This was my first DIY so I am a rookie.

Took me about 3 hours to do it and unless you are from middle earth, the space is going to be tight. Really tight.

Fixed my problem though so I am happy today.

FYI - I have a 2001 M3.

-a

Last edited by archdog99; 10-19-2006 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 10-30-2006, 08:02 PM   #76
Ronniebug
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I had the same issue with my 2001 325i with 100,000 miles on it. Luckily I found this site and the directions and pics provided. I ordered new FSR at Auto Parts Warehouse on line for $72. I took my time and it took me 2 hours to do start to finish. Thanks for the fix info! Just be patient when you do it and don't force anything so you won't break anything. Biggest obstacle is not having enough light to work with so plan for that. Also very awkward location, but you can get to it and it will save you $200 at least!
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Old 10-30-2006, 08:06 PM   #77
Ronniebug
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sounds like you need to select the temp mode on your steering column control tree, then press the right hand control knob on your meter cluster to change it back to F.
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:10 PM   #78
Mautofied
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Perfect!!

I know this thread keeps getting bump to the top... but this is such a great DIY and can save you hundreds of dollars. My dealership wanted $300 labor to do this. It took me about 45 minutes from start to finish.

This DIY was right on... I have a 02 325CI w/ 86,000 miles. My FSR did not have any screws but was held in by clips. It has a place for you to put screws in... so I bought some screws and put them in. At first I thought this was changed out before and the person did not put the screws back in. But after reading some, I guess the 325's did not have screws and was only held in by clips.

Very difficult to get out if you have big hands... actually that was the most difficult thing. Good luck to everyone else who tries this. If you guys need any advice or help, pm me!

BTW, I bought my Final Stage from PACIFIC BMW @ 57.71 + shipping. Worth every penny since I now have a heater!!!
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Old 11-10-2006, 01:02 PM   #79
BMW_E46
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Finally got mine fix! Thanks for the great write up! Everything go smoothly! Got it done in about 40min. The hardest part is to remove the sensor itself. One advise is you don't have to remove the glove box door itself. You remove the whole glove box assembly, not the door.

Again, thanks guys!

Steve
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Old 11-11-2006, 10:44 AM   #80
jlboygenius
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I think i've got a bad FSR too. My HVAC wouldn't turn off, even if the car was off! Sounds like others have had the same problem. Unfortunatly, It ended up killing my battery. I roll-started it, and now the idle is all screwy. Ended up calling bmw service, and had it towed to the dealer. Fortunatly, my car is still under warrenty.
It sounds like i might have the newest car with this problem, mine is an 04 with ~35k on it!!! I would think i'd have another few years before this became a problem. At least when it happens again, i'll know how to fix it
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