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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 11-11-2009, 12:20 PM   #121
bbhart
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The 49-DL worked great for me, too (2003 325i). I'm not mechanically inclined but it was really a straightforward swap-out using the instructions in this thread. Make sure to pull out the white spacer from the bottom and hook up the vent tube. Went with a pack of playing cards on top to make up the difference in height.

Hardest part for me was that I dropped one of the bracket screws down into the battery compartment when unscrewing the old battery... forgot it was down there, put the new battery in place and got 'er all hooked up, then... d'oh. Curse, unhook everything, lift, fetch, replace, curse, done.
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Old 11-29-2009, 09:11 PM   #122
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ok really stupid question:

how do I take that dang plastic cover off..The one covering the battery itself?! I took out the 2 plastic screws but something seems like its holding it from the other side. I can get it halfway off, but it doesn't seem to budge when I try pulling it out (I'm pulling pretty hard too)!

Sorry for the ignorant questions. Help?
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:39 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by tK715 View Post
ok really stupid question:

how do I take that dang plastic cover off..The one covering the battery itself?! I took out the 2 plastic screws but something seems like its holding it from the other side. I can get it halfway off, but it doesn't seem to budge when I try pulling it out (I'm pulling pretty hard too)!

Sorry for the ignorant questions. Help?
The black plastic tray tucks under the grey inner trunk liner, so you have to disengage the two. It can be kinda tricky, but perservere and you will get it loose.
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:42 AM   #124
ca1242
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There is a piece of metal that goes into the right side of the tray, under the liner. You need to lift up the rightmost part of the tray and slide left.
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Old 11-30-2009, 09:47 AM   #125
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Depends on how "charged" the baterry is when you buy it. Typically, they are fully charged, so no need to do anything special. Easiest way to tell is the first time you start the car after installing the battery. If it starts right up, you are good. If it takes a bit longer than usual, you should charge it.
The myth of driving a car after installation is in fact just a myth. What should happen is to have the new battery charged (AutoZone will put it on the chargers in the store for 10 minutes). This practice is called "finished forming" which will make sure everything is great for a long time. The car's electrical system is designed to "maintain" the system and by putting a battery on (that is lets say 85-90% state of charge) you can hurt the system as it is trying to maintain everything and charge the battery.
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:33 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikergeek View Post
The black plastic tray tucks under the grey inner trunk liner, so you have to disengage the two. It can be kinda tricky, but perservere and you will get it loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1242 View Post
There is a piece of metal that goes into the right side of the tray, under the liner. You need to lift up the rightmost part of the tray and slide left.

Great, I will try that! thx fellas!
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:44 PM   #127
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Just one tip: NEVER SMOKE when replacing car battery!!!
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:20 PM   #128
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E46 Battery replacement

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Originally Posted by Tim30250 View Post
Not too much to it...

Go into the trunk and lift out the spare tire cover. Look all the way to the right and note the plastic battery cover. Remove the two plastic screws holding it down with a flathead screwdriver. Then lift the battery cover off. Battery will now be exposed. Remove the plastic cover over the positive terminal. You should be able to do this with your bare hands. Using a wrench or a socket (10mm IIRC) loosen and remove the negative cable from the battery, and then the positive cable. Finally, there will be a tall screw that attaches the battery to the bottom of the battery tray. You can loosen this with a phillips head screwdriver. Lift out battery, and reverse directions for installation.

It's not a bad job at all. It shouldn't take any more than about 15 or 20 minutes tops, and you'll save over $100 vs. letting the dealership rip you off.

EDIT: I almost forgot, there is a rubber vent tube that will need to be disconnected between the part about the tall screw and lifting out the battery. This just simply pulls off, and you can just simply push it back on the new one. My tube was semi-hidden behind the battery, but it became clearly visible when I tilted the battery just before I lifted it up to remove it.
Our 2002 325i original battery was exhibiting the symptoms described in this forum (headlights flashing when trying to start), so after a jump, we went to the nearest Autozone in Oakland, bought a 49-DL, had the counter guy put it on the charger while I removed the old battery in the parking lot (brought my tool kit with me), took the old one in for the core refund, put in the new one according to the instructions in this thread, cinched a 1/2" piece of wood down to get a tight fit with the battery bracket, we were done in about 20 minutes. Thanks to this forum for giving the confidence and saving us the money over having someone else do it.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:41 AM   #129
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I replaced my dead OEM battery with a Silver Bosch (sealed) one which was about 3 inches shorter in length and a fair bit lighter than the original. Vent hose is dangling now, but perfectly fine after doing about 1000 miles in the past week.

Nearly gave myself a hernia lifting that old yoke out and dragging it in the shop for disposal...

That info that the guy in the shop said about unsealed batteries emitting hydrogen when charged is true. I tried to resuscitate my OEM after leaving the car in storage for 9 months. My hallway smelled awful after 10 mins, and yes that Hindenburg scenario could happen! So perhaps a sealed battery is best here?

Only thing I had to reset was the clock, and the EML light was on for a short while after changing the battery. All gone now

Just need to put on the battery holder now, although it's be fine without since the change.

I dunno what some of you are saying about the plastic tray being hard to remove is all about. If you think about it, it's a good thing that it's securely fastened and sealed. You don't want any rain water etc dripping through.

After fixing a few things in the car, I noticed that everything they have put in it has a purpose and works perfectly as designed. They sure know how to build a car (and tune engines for that matter) even though they speak a dodgy language

Japanese and German cars are all I'd ever buy from now on.
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Old 04-17-2010, 10:24 PM   #130
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Hi all.

Replacing my battery tomorrow, and I did the autozone website search. They pointed to the duralast 94R-DLG. Has anyone used this one and/or recommend it over the 49-DL?

Thanks!

Last edited by kurahee; 04-18-2010 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 04-18-2010, 05:05 PM   #131
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Hi all.

Replacing my battery tomorrow, and I did the autozone website search. They pointed to the duralast 94R-DLG. Has anyone used this one and/or recommend it over the 49-DL?

Thanks!

Did the replacement this afternoon.

49-DL was the battery I purchased, and replacement went without a hitch.

Good thread!
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:30 PM   #132
weigun
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Just a information

Battery Selector:
http://www.autobatteries.com/selector/index.asp
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:12 AM   #133
catso
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Wallyworld Everstart 94RN battery; 3/8 yr warranty, $75-$80 cost. Identical to OEM. No modification neccessary.
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:46 PM   #134
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This thread is awesome!

Went to autozone, gave them my vehicle information, and they provided me w/ a duralast 49D. Except it wasn't $70 like you guys say; it was $144!

Oh well.
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:50 PM   #135
djnekkon
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This thread is awesome!

Went to autozone, gave them my vehicle information, and they provided me w/ a duralast 49D. Except it wasn't $70 like you guys say; it was $144!

Oh well.
You got ripped!! my friend.
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Old 04-20-2010, 07:06 PM   #136
r2d2
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This thread is awesome!

Went to autozone, gave them my vehicle information, and they provided me w/ a duralast 49D. Except it wasn't $70 like you guys say; it was $144!

Oh well.
ouuuuuch
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:44 PM   #137
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Not too much to it...

EDIT: I almost forgot, there is a rubber vent tube that will need to be disconnected between the part about the tall screw and lifting out the battery. This just simply pulls off, and you can just simply push it back on the new one. My tube was semi-hidden behind the battery, but it became clearly visible when I tilted the battery just before I lifted it up to remove it.
I replaced the battery. All went well. The car even seems to accelerate better now. Question.. I accidentally pulled the venting tube right out of the side of the car. And then realizing what I did, shoved it back into the hole it came out of.. Any idea if the end of the tube is attached to anything inside the chassis of the car?? I'm hoping not, as I don't want to leave it like that if it is supposed to be attached to something in there in order to vent properly..
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Old 06-20-2010, 08:04 PM   #138
stapler12345
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do i need an insulated ratchet to remove the battery?
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Old 06-20-2010, 11:53 PM   #139
catso
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You don't even need a ratchet. The tools in the trunk lid are enough. Make sure you disconnect the negative terminal first.
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Old 06-20-2010, 11:56 PM   #140
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ouuuuuch
Wallyworld Everlast 94RN battery, 3/8 yr. warranty. Exact fit, no modification neccessary. Much better option than Azone. I've had one for 7 months, works perfect.
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