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Old 06-29-2005, 01:46 AM   #1
rcurley55
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Official Midbass Fitment Guide - Let's start one - EVERYONE READ

So here's what I'm thinking....everyone is always confused as all hell when it comes to fitting aftermarket midbasses in E46 doors. I say we all contribute a little here and fill out the following info:

Body Style:
Midbass Brand/Model:
Midbass Size:
Mounting Method:
Mods to Door:
Mods to Doorpanel:
Additional Info:

quote this thread and add in your info...let's try to make this a reference for those looking for new speakers
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Old 06-29-2005, 01:48 AM   #2
rcurley55
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Location: SF, CA
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My Ride: 2001 IR M3 Coupe
Body Style: Coupe
Midbass Brand/Model: DLS Ultimate Iridium
Midbass Size: 6.5"
Mounting Method: Custom MDF mount bolted to the door
Mods to Door: Small hole cut in the door to create IB alignment, door layered with Raammat BXT and Ensolite foam
Mods to Doorpanel: Trimmed back of factory grille, wrapped in grille cloth
Additional Info: DLS's are only 2.5" deep and use a neo magnet so they are very easy to fit
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Old 06-29-2005, 08:44 AM   #3
ca1242
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As far as getting midbases into a door panel into ANY E46 (coupe/sedan):

1. Build a "spacer" out of MDF rings stacked over each other, attach to the door metal.
2. For better results, cut metal behind speaker to give the driver "room to breathe". On coupes, you have a window rail behind the speaker, so you have to cut two 1/2 circles instead of a big one. On sedans, you can cut a circle, although it is a tad harder because the metal is a heavier gauge in certain parts.
3. "Seal" where the wood meets the metal using Dynamat extreme or similar product.

Using the above method, you can pretty much fit any 6.5" speaker with optimum results as far as sound quality, midbass output and minimizing potential for rattles. The biggest speaker I have done using this method was a Boston Acoustics Z6 on a coupe with no problems.

For even better results, you can avoid the doors all together. I hate to have speakers in doors because of non-optimal staging and imaging and because a door will always end up rattling sooner or later with the vibration of the midbass. ...so I have my front speakers in custom kick panels.

I know this is not the answer you were looking for, but personally, I think it is the best approach by far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcurley55
So here's what I'm thinking....everyone is always confused as all hell when it comes to fitting aftermarket midbasses in E46 doors. I say we all contribute a little here and fill out the following info:

Body Style:
Midbass Brand/Model:
Midbass Size:
Mounting Method:
Mods to Door:
Mods to Doorpanel:
Additional Info:

quote this thread and add in your info...let's try to make this a reference for those looking for new speakers
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Old 06-29-2005, 10:26 AM   #4
rcurley55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1242
I know this is not the answer you were looking for, but personally, I think it is the best approach by far.
Yeah, not the answer I was looking for

At the end of the day, many people are going to locate midbass drivers at the factory location, so it would be great for you to post what you have personally fit there and what it took so we can all learn from it - that's the point, not to have a discussion about kicks v. doors.

I'm just hoping to tap all the knowledge at this site so everyone can benefit, so throw up what you have installed!!
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Old 06-29-2005, 10:55 AM   #5
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You are right, I apologize. What I described first still applies, using the factory location, but a different mounting option.
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:23 PM   #6
kwang125
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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Posts: 454
My Ride: 323i
Body Style: Sedan
Midbass Brand/Model: DLS Iridium 6.5
Midbass Size: 6.5"
Mounting Method: Door Panel
Mods to Door: N/A
Mods to Doorpanel: Trim back of speaker gril;
Additional Info: DLS tweeter is 1" deep. Very difficult to fit in factory A-pillar position. Had to make fiberglass tweeter pod.



Body Style: Sedan
Midbass Brand/Model: Diamond Audio HEX 6.0
Midbass Size: 6.0"
Mounting Method:Door Panel
Mods to Door: N/A
Mods to Doorpanel:Trim back of speaker grill
Additional Info:
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Old 06-29-2005, 03:55 PM   #7
Tom Busby
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My Ride: 2001 325i, 1995 318i
I installed jlaudio 3-speaker components in my driver's side door last weekend, and plan to do the passenger side door this weekend.

The car is a 2001 325i with 3 OEM speakers in each front door.

The stock woofer is 6 1/4" diameter by 2 3/4" deep. The jlaudio midbass is 6 1/2" by 2 7/8" deep, and is mounted to (essentially) two 3/4" MDF rings on the metal inner doorpanel.

The 6 1/2" midbass just barely fits and requires a lot of blind try-fitting. A list doesn't really show how very difficult it is to do this installation. Read on if you want the blinding details:

The 1st mdf ring is just a partial ring (a crescent moon shape where the MDF is mitered-across to about 3/8" thick in the back and thinning out to zero at the front 2 clip-holes). I wanted to engage all 3 of the door clips on the posts of the inner leatherette/plastic doorpanel. The 2nd and 3rd 3/4" MDF rings are also notched to clear the three posts for the doorpanel clips, and the MDF rings are bolted to the metal panel. The speaker is screwed to the MDF.

I also ground flush the OEM plastic speaker mounting ring on the leatherette/plastic doorpanel to ensure cone clearance. I'm not sure if that was necessary, but I didn't want to re-do the install to fix a cone excursion problem.

It was necessary to drill a 4" hole into the metal panel behind the woofer. If the speaker had been 1/8" less deep the hole wouldn't be necessary for the speaker to fit physically, except that an infinite baffle setup requires about 1 cu.ft. of air to sound right. I also put in about 3 sq.ft. of Home Depot shelfliner (white closed cell foam, very cheap but similar to sorbathane (sp?)) inside the door to partially damp the soundwave that comes off the backside of the woofer, and to keep water off the woofer. I am not a fan of heavyweight dampers like Dynamat because it takes about 20 pounds per door. There is about 1/4" of clearance left for the window to go up and down. A very tight fit.

The jlaudio 4" speaker fits into the same location as the stock 2 1/2" midspeaker. The jlaudio midspeaker is 2 1/4" deep compared to 1 1/2" for the stock speaker. I made a 6" diameter by 3/4" thick MDF ring, cut in slightly to hold the speaker flush. The circumference of the MDF ring has an outside radius so it will look nice under the leatherette, and is both a circle and an ellipse to clear the mappocket on the door-bottom and the armrest on the top. The stock leatherette peeled up easily with my fingers, and then the MDF ring slid underneath the leatherette after the MDF ring was sawed in half straight down the middle. The speaker is then screwed into the MDF from the front and the MDF is screwed to plastic door panel from the back.

The jladio tweeter is 1" and the stock tweeter is 5/8" and the new tweeter fits into the large amount of OEM foam in the stock tweeter pod. I mounted the new tweeter loosely to the stock tweeter mount (with thin wire) so it wouldn't fall off during installation, and then pushed the tweeter into the OEM foam. The foam is tight but compliant so the tweeter is aimable.
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Old 07-08-2005, 08:33 PM   #8
guestlinger
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 5
My Ride: E46 320d
Body Style: E46 Touring (2004)
Midbass Brand/Model: Dynaudio 260GT
Midbass Size:6.5"
Mounting Method:direct to BMW mounting
Mods to Door:none
Mods to Doorpanel: none
Additional Info:it fits perfectly - no mods required
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Old 07-08-2005, 09:26 PM   #9
tff
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Posts: 20
My Ride: 328i
Body Style: 328i Sedan (1999)
Midbass Brand/Model: a/d/s/ 346cs
Midbass Size: 6.5 inch
Mounting Method: single 3/4 mdf cam plate bolted to door metal, door dynamated (extreme) and cam plate sealed to door metal with dynamat extreme
Mods to Door: cut hole in door for speaker, drill 2 holes for cam plate (using one stock hole in front lower corner of door where the door panel used to snap to, see below)
Mods to Doorpanel: I had to trim down the ring on the inside of the door panel that interfaces with the stock speaker and cut the mounting post for one of the three door panel snaps around the stock speaker (the other two are still functional).
Additional Info: The speaker has about 3/8 or less clearance to the window from the magnet and to the factory speaker grill from the surround. In summary, a tight fit. Tweets are mounted in the stock sail location surrounded by foam (easier than fabbing a mount), crossovers are in the trunk. I made a plastic moisture barrier (out of a single layer of a zip lock bag) behind the magnet of each speaker sealed on top with tape, but open on three sides (it just hangs over the back speaker and is too light to make any rattling noise). There are three levels of "flat" (nonconcave) metal in the door. I mounted the cam on mdf "washers" (about 1" round) to lift the back of the cam out to the plane of the door panel.
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Old 07-08-2005, 11:06 PM   #10
bigjae1976
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DA Hex 6" mids are a true 6", not a 6.5" and fit the factory location perfectly although you pay for it with somewhat weaker midbass.

I measured a max depth of ~ 3.5" in a coupe when you shave the back of the grill like this:



and cut the metal like ca142 mentioned.
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Old 08-13-2005, 03:42 PM   #11
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Bump...for a good thread
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Old 07-26-2007, 12:59 PM   #12
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Bump. Let's get some new info
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Old 07-26-2007, 01:16 PM   #13
Bruce Wayne
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 206
My Ride: 330Ci
Body Style: Coupe
Midbass Brand/Model: JL XR 6.5
Midbass Size: 6.5"
Mounting Method: Custom MDF mount bolted to the door
Mods to Door: 12 inch square of dynamant behind speaker
Mods to Doorpanel: Trimmed back of factory grille
Additional Info: take the rubber magnet cover off of the back of the speaker, for extra room
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Old 08-03-2007, 08:08 PM   #14
Boredfangy
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any more??
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Old 08-03-2007, 11:40 PM   #15
islandjim
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Palm Springs, Ca
Posts: 17
My Ride: 528i, 318i
Body Style: 2000 Coupe
Midbass Brand/Model:MBQ RUA216
Midbass Size:6.5" (1.65" DEEP)
Mounting Method:European Auto Source adapter ring
Mods to Door:None
Mods to Doorpanel:None
Additional Info: May not be the best, but they are cheap ($120) and easy with decent SQ.
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:55 AM   #16
galege1
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Location: UAE
Posts: 90
My Ride: 323i
Body Style: Sedan 2000
Midbass Brand/Model:Kicker KX562
Midbass Size:5"
Mounting Method:I cut the edge of the stock speaker and used them as adaptor rings
Mods to Door:None
Mods to Doorpanel:None
Additional Info: tweets are on the stock sail location and crossover are in the trunk.
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Old 08-04-2007, 12:24 PM   #17
markusmark
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1,679
My Ride: 2001330Ci
Body Style: 2001 Coupe
Midbass Brand/Model: Diamond Hex S600S
Midbass Size:6.5"
Mounting Method: Removed old spreakers, used MDF speaker ring
Mods to Door:None
Mods to Doorpanel:None
Additional Info: tweets are on the stock location; using OEM amp so wiring is a straight shot - no mods.
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:42 AM   #18
bigjae1976
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Body Style: 2004 Coupe
Midbass Brand/Model: OZ AUdio CS180
Midbass Size:6.5"
Mounting Method: Ring stack mounted to the door
Mods to Door: Cut metal
Mods to Doorpanel: Shaved back of grille, cut OEM mounting points on door panel
Additional Info: Used OEM location for tweets...gives you a pretty good image/stage.
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:04 PM   #19
SamXp
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Body Style: 2001 Cabrio
Midbass Brand/Model: Seas L18RNX/p
Midbass Size: 7"
Mounting Method: Ring stack mounted to the door
Mods to Door: Cut opening behind driver, cut off excess on window track bolt - flush to nut.
Mods to Doorpanel: Shaved back of grille, cut OEM mounting points on door panel
Additional Info: Used cutoff wheel to trim mounting flange on driver to reduce from 176mm to 165mm. Not for the faint at heart - entire driver was masked off to prevent metal shavings from contaminating the open voice coil.
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:03 AM   #20
dubspinna
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: London, UK
Posts: 284
My Ride: E46 M3 2003.5
Body Style: 2003 M3 Coupe
Midbass Brand/Model: Focal 165K2P
Midbass Size:6.5"
Mounting Method: MDF Ring stack mounted to the door, sealed with fibreglass and covered with Dynamat (inside and out)
Mods to Door: Cut metal (full circle)
Mods to Doorpanel: Shaved back of grille, cut OEM mounting points on door panel
Additional Info: OEM location for tweeters
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