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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 06-02-2008, 01:10 AM   #2061
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As I am a huge noob to detailing and there isn't a reputable detail shop in my town that charges under 100 dollars an hour, I would like to do everything myself.

So my request is a complete list of every product I would need to detail a dirty/swirl ridden exterior and a sticky/funny odory interior with stained carpet. My wheels also have some kind of dirt that will not come off them.

I want the real deal stuff, but I wouldn't know where to start. I have the tools to use the spinning pad with.
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:47 AM   #2062
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Greg, one question what would you do with fine scratches on FLAT black wheels....how could i remove them...polish them? if so....menzerna nano or ssr1, ssr2.5 ssr3...which would be the best polish to go with..? im thinking ssr1 as its really light polish...can you please let me know? ALSO should i use white pad or black pad...thank you
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:35 AM   #2063
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Originally Posted by 00'323i View Post
As I am a huge noob to detailing and there isn't a reputable detail shop in my town that charges under 100 dollars an hour, I would like to do everything myself.

So my request is a complete list of every product I would need to detail a dirty/swirl ridden exterior and a sticky/funny odory interior with stained carpet. My wheels also have some kind of dirt that will not come off them.

I want the real deal stuff, but I wouldn't know where to start. I have the tools to use the spinning pad with.
No problem at all we have a package that I think will be perfect for you! Our All The Detailing Essentials Package will give you what you need to restore and protect the exterior, clean the carpets, condition leather, care for the glass, clean and polish the wheels and so much more. This package has everything you need for a full detail. The only additional product you may want to buy for the odor is the Chemical Guys Sofast Odor Eater

All The Detailing Essentials
is a complete detailing kit that gives you all the most necessary products to complete a show car worthy detail. Don’t just get pieces of a detail when you can have everything you need for a thorough detail. Removing contaminants from the exterior is the first step which can be done with the Poorboy’s World Super Slick & Suds and the Sheepskin Wash Mitt. Fill two buckets two-thirds full with water and put the Grit Guard in one and pour shampoo in the other. Add more water to the shampoo and water mix to create a rich lather of suds. Soak the Sheepskin Wash Mitt in the shampoo mix and wash the vehicle from top down. After every 1 – 2 panels you should dunk the Sheepskin Wash Mitt in the Grit Guard bucket. Lightly wipe the mitt against the Grit Guard to help release contaminants and then continue washing. Use the Lake Country Ulti-Mit to wash the lower panels, wheels and other areas that are heavily contaminated. Do your best to preserve the mitts so they remain clean and safe to use on the paint. After you’re done thoroughly rinse the paint from the top down and move the vehicle in to a shaded area if it’s not already. Then use the Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towels to thoroughly dry the paint.

The paint may look totally clean now but many contaminants remain bonded to the clear coat or stuck in the micro-ridges of the clear coat. Much like your skin there are tons of microscopic pores in the clear coat where contaminants become embedded. By removing these contaminants you’ll help the polish, sealant and wax do their jobs better. A clay bar will help remove these contaminants, leaving your paint much smoother and optically clear. Simply spray the clay lube (Poorboy’s World Spray & Wipe) over a small area (2ft x 2ft). Then gently glide the bar side to side and it will pick up contamination. Wipe the area clean with an All Purpose Microfiber Towel, then remold the clay and repeat the process on a new area. When you’re all done you won’t believe how much contamination you removed and how smooth your paint feels. Now the paint looks better and is perfectly ready to be polished.

Polishing your paint is the process by which you work in tiny particles that permanently removes swirls and other fine imperfections. Swirls cause light to fragment when it passes through the clear coat, which diminishes your paint’s ability to show it’s true shine. By removing those imperfections you allow the light to pass directly through the paint and thus a deep shine. The Porter Cable 7424 is a major asset in this process because of its ability to effectively work in the polish. Polishes need lots of heat and pressure to break down and work in to the clear coat properly. Generating an equivalent amount of pressure by hand is nearly impossible over an entire detail. To begin using the buffer you should first replace the 5” counterweight weight with the 6” counterweight, to help reduce vibration. Then screw in the 6” backing plate so you can attach the Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad. Apply several small drops of the Menzerna Intensive Polish to the outside edge of the pad and then smear the pad over a small area (2ft x 2ft) with the buffer off. You may need to use a little extra product for the first one to two applications so the pad has enough polish on it. Turn the buffer on speed 6 and move the buffer slowly up and down and then side to side. Remove the excess product with a clean All Purpose Microfiber Towel and repeat the process on the rest of the vehicle. It will likely take 2 – 4 All Purpose Microfiber Towels to thoroughly remove all of the product. After you are done repeat the same process with a White Polishing Pad and the Menzerna Final Polish II. This combination of polishes will make the clear coat a light more vibrant and shinny. You only need to polish the paint 1 – 2 times per year, so these steps are not generally included in your normal routine.

Having smooth and clean paint will allow the sealant to adhere to the paint much better so you get longer lasting protection! Attach your Blue Fine Finishing Pad and apply a tiny amount of the Poorboy’s World EX-P. With the EX-P you’ll use less product than you would with the polishes, approximately 1 oz per coat. The EX-P leaves an acrylic layer of protection that will protect your paint for about 3 – 6 months depending on conditions. The paint will look highly reflective and sharp after completing this step. We recommend waiting at least one hour before applying another coat and ideally 12 – 24 hours for the maximum curing time. To increase the protection and really enhance the depth and gloss of the paint use the Poorboy’s World Natty’s Blue Paste Wax. Wipe your Microfiber Hand Applicator Pad in the jar in a circular motion to gather a light coating of wax on the applicator. Apply the product by hand to your paint and hand remove the left over wax with a clean All Purpose Microfiber Towel. You will be amazed at how much deeper you paint looks with one coat of this wax. Additionally you’ll add more protection which will help preserve the underlying coat of sealant. Step back when you’re done and take a look at your stunning paint!

Clean your wheels with the pH neutral P21S Wheel Gel. This solution is safe on ALL wheels and helps gently separate contaminants from your wheel without using harsh acidic formulas. The gel formula clings to horizontal and vertical surfaces where pure liquids often run down quickly. This helps the formula stay in contact with more parts of the wheel and loosen more contaminates. You can agitate more difficult build ups with the Lake Country Ulti-Mit. If deep stains still remain like oxidation, embedded brake dust, rust, etc. use the P21S Finish Restorer and the Two Sided Microfiber Towel. Apply a small drop of the polish to the more textured side of this towel and buff the contaminated area. Then remove the remaining residue with the smoother side of the towel. You’ll restore an amazing glow to any metal or clear coated surface. Do not use this metal polish on painted, hard cast aluminum or anodized surfaces. You can also use this polish in the engine bay, exhaust tips, trim, around the home, etc. After the wheels are thoroughly cleaned and polished you should apply the Poorboy’s World Bold n Bright to the Tire Dressing Applicator. Wipe on the dressing and you’ll instantly notice a bold new finish to your tires. The Bold n Bright is a water based dressing that can actually be absorbed in to the leather to nourish it so it remains flexible yet strong.

Cleaning the glass can be challenging but we’ve provided you all the tools to make the job a lot easier. For your exterior glass you will want to use the Glass Science Glass Scrub when you are washing your vehicle. Wet the glass and apply a nickel sized drop of Glass Scrub on your Foam Applicator Pad. Buff the product on your exterior glass with medium pressure and rinse the glass thoroughly when done. This process deep cleans the micro-pores of your glass so you can see what truly clean glass looks like. After you have dried the exterior glass you can seal it with the Rain Clear Gel. Apply a small drop on a Microfiber Applicator Pad and buff it on the glass in a circular motion. Remove the excess product with a clean All Purpose Microfiber Towel. The Rain Clear Gel helps seal the micro-pores in your glass and force moisture to bead up tightly. Moisture will roll of the glass and you’ll have improved vision while driving in any condition. For the interior glass start off with the Stoner Invisible Glass, 2x All Purpose Microfiber Towels and 1x Glass Microfiber Towel. The Stoner Invisible Glass is completely safe on tinted windows. Spray a light mist of the Invisible Glass on an All Purpose Microfiber Towel and wipe the glass until it’s clean. Follow up this application with a slightly damp microfiber towel and wipe the windows you just cleaned to remove any remaining residue. Lastly, you wipe down the glass with the Glass Microfiber Towel to ensure you have absolutely streak free glass. The low nap and special materials used in this towel make flush contact with the glass and let no streaks escape. Use this same process on the exterior glass if you don’t want to use the Glass Scrub in the beginning of your routine.


The interior of your vehicle can seem complicated but after you have just cleaned the glass we can clean and protect most of the rest of the interior with just three products. Clean your carpets, dashboard, console, doors, armrests and more with the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover. 1 – 2 sprays on an All Purpose Microfiber Towel will give you enough cleaning solution to wipe down those surfaces and safely remove dust, stains, etc. Apply more product as needed, but try not to saturate the towel. Follow up this application by spraying 1 – 2 sprays of the 303 Aerospace Protectant on a clean All Purpose Microfiber Towel. Then wipe down any vinyl, rubber, leather or plastic surface. You’ll add a nice bold finish with UV protection, without the greasy or oily feeling. The Poorboy’s World Leather Stuff will help you clean your leather or leatherette (synthetic and coated leather) seats. Leather Stuff helps clean, condition and protect your leather all in one step. Apply a nickel sized drop of Leather Stuff to a clean Microfiber Applicator Pad and buff it in to your seats. Use more product as needed and let the product sit for at least fifteen minutes before removal. Some contaminates will rise to the surface so it’s important to wipe down the seats with a clean All Purpose Microfiber Towel. To add more protection to the seats you can also wipe them down with the 303 Aerospace Protectant when you are done with the Leather Stuff.

To clean your engine bay you will use all of the same products you just used throughout other steps in the detailing process. Detailing the engine bay can seem overwhelming but really the process is quite simple and easy. Most engine details only take about 30 – 50 minutes. Assuming the engine is cold run the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes to warm it up a little bit. If the vehicle is already warm you should wait until it is cool before starting. Cover air filters, intakes and electrical connections with saran wrap or tin foil and mist water over the bay. Spray the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover all over the engine bay and let it soak for about 1 – 2 minutes. Avoid spraying hard cast aluminum and mechanical parts like fans and belts. Agitate stubborn build-ups with an old rag until clean. Rinse the bay down upon completion and remove the tin foil or saran wrap. Dry the engine bay with a rag as well and apply a drop of the P21S Finish Restorer to your Two Sided Microfiber Polishing Towel. Buff any metals to a high shine so they look like new again. The last step is to apply the 303 Aerospace Protectant to an All Purpose Microfiber Towel. Wipe down all the non-mechanical rubber, vinyl and plastic surfaces. You’ll instantly notice the rich shine and bold appearance. The engine bay will stay cleaner with this application and make future cleanings much easier.

You can step back now and admire a beautiful engine bay and completed detail. This whole process will help transform your vehicle so it looks better than new. Upon completion you will feel extremely proud at what you have accomplished through this detail. You will also have learned about your vehicle and how to properly care for it. This is a very rewarding process that will help you take your detailing to the next level. Don’t delay, get the “All The Detailing Essential” today!

Let me know if you have any questions about this package or any part of the process.

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:52 AM   #2064
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Originally Posted by xjunmoonx View Post
Greg, one question what would you do with fine scratches on FLAT black wheels....how could i remove them...polish them? if so....menzerna nano or ssr1, ssr2.5 ssr3...which would be the best polish to go with..? im thinking ssr1 as its really light polish...can you please let me know? ALSO should i use white pad or black pad...thank you
Typically I use a light polish/pads first and use more aggressive ones as needed. It's pretty common that you'll need a medium polish and pad to remove them thought, so I wouldn't be surprised if you need at least a medium polish to remove the marks. This process also depends a lot on your application method. Hand applications can be more challenging to remove imperfections. A buffer with the right pads will be a huge help as well.

Start with a light pad/polish, then a medium polish/pad and finally a heavy polish/pad. You can use any light, medium and heavy polish in this process. My ideal process would be to start with a white pad/Menzerna P0106FF, then move onto the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish/orange pad and finally the Menzerna Power Gloss/yellow pad. The black pad is pretty soft and I typically don't use then when polishing. I would only use that when polishing if I was using a chemical polish or a really light polish. Typically the black pad is also only used for polishes when you have a high speed buffer.

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Old 06-02-2008, 01:48 PM   #2065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs View Post
No problem at all we have a package that I think will be perfect for you! Our All The Detailing Essentials Package will give you what you need to restore and protect the exterior, clean the carpets, condition leather, care for the glass, clean and polish the wheels and so much more. This package has everything you need for a full detail. The only additional product you may want to buy for the odor is the Chemical Guys Sofast Odor Eater

All The Detailing Essentials
is a complete detailing kit that gives you all the most necessary products to complete a show car worthy detail. Don’t just get pieces of a detail when you can have everything you need for a thorough detail. Removing contaminants from the exterior is the first step which can be done with the Poorboy’s World Super Slick & Suds and the Sheepskin Wash Mitt. Fill two buckets two-thirds full with water and put the Grit Guard in one and pour shampoo in the other. Add more water to the shampoo and water mix to create a rich lather of suds. Soak the Sheepskin Wash Mitt in the shampoo mix and wash the vehicle from top down. After every 1 – 2 panels you should dunk the Sheepskin Wash Mitt in the Grit Guard bucket. Lightly wipe the mitt against the Grit Guard to help release contaminants and then continue washing. Use the Lake Country Ulti-Mit to wash the lower panels, wheels and other areas that are heavily contaminated. Do your best to preserve the mitts so they remain clean and safe to use on the paint. After you’re done thoroughly rinse the paint from the top down and move the vehicle in to a shaded area if it’s not already. Then use the Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towels to thoroughly dry the paint.

Let me know if you have any questions about this package or any part of the process.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Holy crap! Thanks so much man, hope you didn't type all that just for me.
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Old 06-02-2008, 01:58 PM   #2066
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Greg,

Quick question. I bought the Nattys Blue paste wax from you and I had a question about hazing of the wax. First of all, I am using a dry microfiber applicator pad. The wax comes packaged very hard and brittle. Are you supposed to pre-treat the wax so that it spreads a little better?

Anywayz, I just wiped the appl pad onto the wax and smeared it onto my paint (alpine white). I was having a difficult time seeing any hazing of the wax. Is this normal? I glanced down at the paint at a hard angle and wiped off what I could see, but just looking at the paint, I could not tell where I had waxed or not. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: What is the best wax you carry for light colored cars (alpine white)? Thanks
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:40 PM   #2067
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I don't know about the wax, but try misting the pad with quick detailer to where the pad is slightly damp. It preps the pad, and keeps the wax more on top instead of just asorbing into the pad.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:52 AM   #2068
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I don't know about the wax, but try misting the pad with quick detailer to where the pad is slightly damp. It preps the pad, and keeps the wax more on top instead of just asorbing into the pad.
ya, i misted the pad with a lil water before working and that really didnt seem to help much. i mean i think i did it right, i just wiped the pad onto the wax aggresively at times to get a very little amount onto the pad, and then kinda buffed the paint with it. i could see it on the paint, but i mean it wasnt obvious.

thanks for your input tho
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:32 AM   #2069
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Leatherique Pristine Cleaner and Oil Rejuv is AMAZING! Love the matte finish it gives. Despite its price, its worth it!!! Thanks Greg!
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:07 AM   #2070
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Holy crap! Thanks so much man, hope you didn't type all that just for me.
I can not lie, that was almost entirely something I had already typed up. I hope it was helpful and what you were lucking for. The package is an outstanding value and should give you high quality products to do a detail from start to finish. If you would like another recommendation that better fits your needs, please let me know how I can help.

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Old 06-03-2008, 09:33 AM   #2071
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Greg,

Quick question. I bought the Nattys Blue paste wax from you and I had a question about hazing of the wax. First of all, I am using a dry microfiber applicator pad. The wax comes packaged very hard and brittle. Are you supposed to pre-treat the wax so that it spreads a little better?

Anywayz, I just wiped the appl pad onto the wax and smeared it onto my paint (alpine white). I was having a difficult time seeing any hazing of the wax. Is this normal? I glanced down at the paint at a hard angle and wiped off what I could see, but just looking at the paint, I could not tell where I had waxed or not. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: What is the best wax you carry for light colored cars (alpine white)? Thanks
The Natty's Blue is a great wax and learning how to best use it does take a little experience. The very top layer of some carnauba waxes is a little dry so it takes a little bit of movement from your pad to help it move easier. I use a dry microfiber or foam applicator and rub it in a circular motion with medium pressure. Typically you only need a very light coating to cover a section of the paint 2ft x 2ft. After you do this once or twice you should be able to get enough product on the pad with relative easy. Newer users of paste waxes often use far too much product and expect to see a thick white haze when it's applied. Only a very thin coating will actually bond to your clear coat and the rest is just wasted and creates more removal work. The wax should look relatively clear when it's applied and while drying. It is somewhat tough to see but good lighting and working in a logical pattern while removing excess product will help you do a thorough job. If you want a little extra help you can spray a little quick detailer on your applicator pad.

For lighter colors my favorite wax would probably have to be the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Wax. It like the way this wax makes the paint look almost alive. Best of all it's 16oz so it's a much better than value then other 8oz containers.

Let me know if I can help you any further.

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Old 06-03-2008, 09:35 AM   #2072
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Leatherique Pristine Cleaner and Oil Rejuv is AMAZING! Love the matte finish it gives. Despite its price, its worth it!!! Thanks Greg!
I agree it is a little bit pricey but the results are well worth it. I have yet to find anything better for the BMW seats. I'm also a big fan of the totally natural finish it leaves behind. It has not fillers or any gloss adding products. Leatherique is very focused on results, not fancy packaging and temporary results.

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Old 06-03-2008, 09:53 AM   #2073
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thanks greg
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:57 PM   #2074
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Originally Posted by Gregs View Post
I can not lie, that was almost entirely something I had already typed up. I hope it was helpful and what you were lucking for. The package is an outstanding value and should give you high quality products to do a detail from start to finish. If you would like another recommendation that better fits your needs, please let me know how I can help.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Say I already have a buffer and I don't need another.
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:35 PM   #2075
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Say I already have a buffer and I don't need another.
I would get the following kits and then piece together the remaining items from the All The Essentials Detailing Kit individually (pads, etc.)

Washing and Drying Starter Kit

Polish and Protection Starter Kit
Interior Starter Kit
Microfiber Starter Kit
Wheel and Tire Package

These packages should help you save some money and get almost everything in the the All The Essentials Detailing Package. Let me know if I can help you any further.

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Old 06-05-2008, 01:29 PM   #2076
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I'm learning so much. This thread is amazing. When I get back from FL, I'll be able to have my big shopping cart checked out!
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Old 06-05-2008, 03:01 PM   #2077
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I'm learning so much. This thread is amazing. When I get back from FL, I'll be able to have my big shopping cart checked out!
Excellent!!!! I'm really happy that you were able to take advantage of some of the information in this thread. I've tried to provide some quality material for others to learn from as well. If you need any help finalizing an order please let me know.

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Old 06-07-2008, 12:42 AM   #2078
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Greg, quick question(s):

How is the Poorboys Bold n' Bright Tire Dressing? Does it last only a week or so. Or can it protect tires for a couple weeks, to a month?

Is it gel based, or liquid form?

Right now I am using Meguiars Tire Endurance Gel, and the quality is ok........But I don't really like the gel part........How does it compare to the Poorboys?

Also, how is Klasse HGS compared to Poorboys Ex-P (In durability, depth, shine)

I need to know by mid-night tomorrow. Gotta order w/special

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Old 06-07-2008, 03:22 AM   #2079
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Since you're in a hurry i'll answer now if thats ok. I have had the big bottle of Bold n Bright for about 2 years now and am only 1/2 through it. It's liquid form. The durability depends on the conditions it is put through. Its not going to last as long as your Meguiars and OTC tire gels, but...it is better for your tires. From my understanding, the Megs and other stuff like that is silicon based(?) and it just lays on top of your tires. That creates slingage down the side of your car, and can also discolor your tires. The Bold n Bright is water based and therefor absorbs into the tire. The result is a healthier tire. It's not super shiny. It's shiny at first, but later it becomes a deep black which I personally think looks better. I don't know about the Klasse HGS. I hope this answered your quesion about the tire dressing. And if i'm wrong on any of this Greg let me know!
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Old 06-07-2008, 04:10 AM   #2080
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I appreciate your help man, I'll try out that Bold n' Bright and see how I like it.........

Just yet another question that either of you two can answer. How many Purple Wool Pads do I need to use on a normal sized car? I didn't know if the wool pads cake up like the normal foam pads do. Right now in my cart I have 2, do I need any more??

(And I need to order by 11:59 tonight est time, I wanna try out the Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax and see if all the hype is really worth it)
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