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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 10-16-2008, 10:51 PM   #2261
AlpineCI
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Hey Greg,

I do plan on upgrading my brake pads at some point, but for now, I'm stuck with painfully having to wash my wheels practically every 3/4 days. It's ridiculous how much my pads dust. It also gets all over the rear bumper and side skirts and when you have a white car like me, it really shows.

Enough about dust, lets focus on wheels. I've read the description and reviews of all of the wheel care products on your detailedimage site. I'm not going to assume the most expensive product is the best, or should I? I've seen posts of Poorboys World Wheel Sealant as being a superior product in the past, but I wasn't sure if you had received anything as of late that put this to the test. Thanks in advance.


On a side note, I'd like to take a quick sec to rave about the waffle weave drying towel. It is a far superior towel than more expensive towels I've tried. Is it just me or does it work better when slightly wet. I will be placing an order soon for another one of these towels and the recommended wheel cleaner/sealer product.


EDIT: Please include recommendations for tire products as well.
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:50 PM   #2262
iigigol0ii
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okay, so what are the proper detailing steps to get a car looking how you guys have it, i have a professional rotary buffer, i am pretty good and comfortable with it, i have a clay bar.
I have a 3M foam pad, and a 3M wool pad, p21s paintwork prep or whatever its call, p21s 100% caurnuba ( siler cap )

all types of stuff...

well i want to know what i should be using, i have a bunch of 3M stuff, like extra cut, glaze, swirl remover.... all types of stuff

I just want to know

what products i should use in what order, and with polishing, what order with what pad..

basically what you did to get the cars you have up looking how they do....

my paint feels extremely smooth, so i know i dont need a clay, but i do have small scratched and some swirls i didnt get out that the detail shop left

my car has been buffed a few times in about a year, so i dont know about buffing it again, ......




the scratches you can only see in direct headlights or direct sunlight...


so i also basically want to know...

what is the proper order?

wash, dry, clay, seal...etc... and what products i should use with what pad..

thanks a lot
will...

my color is carbon black, but i will also be doing a white car.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:12 AM   #2263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineCI View Post
Hey Greg,

I do plan on upgrading my brake pads at some point, but for now, I'm stuck with painfully having to wash my wheels practically every 3/4 days. It's ridiculous how much my pads dust. It also gets all over the rear bumper and side skirts and when you have a white car like me, it really shows.

Enough about dust, lets focus on wheels. I've read the description and reviews of all of the wheel care products on your detailedimage site. I'm not going to assume the most expensive product is the best, or should I? I've seen posts of Poorboys World Wheel Sealant as being a superior product in the past, but I wasn't sure if you had received anything as of late that put this to the test. Thanks in advance.


On a side note, I'd like to take a quick sec to rave about the waffle weave drying towel. It is a far superior towel than more expensive towels I've tried. Is it just me or does it work better when slightly wet. I will be placing an order soon for another one of these towels and the recommended wheel cleaner/sealer product.


EDIT: Please include recommendations for tire products as well.
I'll take a stab at this if you don't mind

The Poorboys Wheel Sealant is by far the best protection on the wheels I have ever used! It is made of pure sealant, and no gloss or shine (unlike other wheel sealants) this is what makes it the ultimate protection.

Just apply it and I usually let it sit on my wheels for 10 minutes, then remove it. It beads up water like no other and actually repels the brake dust. Of course, some time the brake dust will appear, but it makes this period about (I would say) a 5/6 days longer.....

This also makes you life alot easier when it comes to cleaning. Usually, I was left with my pressure washer and a bottle of degressor to get my brake dust off with my other wheel wax. Not I'm just left with my pressure washer and the dust basically falls off. It'a a fantastic product you won't be disappointed with!

For tire products right now, its all up to personal choice. You can either go the gel type, or the water based......

Personally, I love Poorboys Bold N Bright. It is water-based (which means no slinging of product all over your fenders). It gets absorbed into the tire and helps nourish the tire itself. This will leave you with a Flat Black Shine on the tire

Hope this helps

-Kyle
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:07 PM   #2264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineCI View Post
Hey Greg,

I do plan on upgrading my brake pads at some point, but for now, I'm stuck with painfully having to wash my wheels practically every 3/4 days. It's ridiculous how much my pads dust. It also gets all over the rear bumper and side skirts and when you have a white car like me, it really shows.

Enough about dust, lets focus on wheels. I've read the description and reviews of all of the wheel care products on your detailedimage site. I'm not going to assume the most expensive product is the best, or should I? I've seen posts of Poorboys World Wheel Sealant as being a superior product in the past, but I wasn't sure if you had received anything as of late that put this to the test. Thanks in advance.


On a side note, I'd like to take a quick sec to rave about the waffle weave drying towel. It is a far superior towel than more expensive towels I've tried. Is it just me or does it work better when slightly wet. I will be placing an order soon for another one of these towels and the recommended wheel cleaner/sealer product.


EDIT: Please include recommendations for tire products as well.
Thank you for taking the time to write up a detailed list of questions, that really helps me provide a specific answer. The Wheel Sealant is still my product of choice for wheel protection. It should make future cleanings much easier!

For tires I really like the Poorboy's World Bold N Bright tire dressing. It's a water based dressing that is good for the rubber and leaves a nice dark and glossy shine. I also recommend cleaning the tires first with a light degreaser and scrub brush to get the maximum results from your tire dressing.

Glad to hear you like our WW Drying Towels. I really love them for drying safely and effectively. I also agree they do work better when they are damp and wet. Sometimes I'll blot dry the worst areas first to get the towel a little damp. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:50 PM   #2265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iigigol0ii View Post
okay, so what are the proper detailing steps to get a car looking how you guys have it, i have a professional rotary buffer, i am pretty good and comfortable with it, i have a clay bar.
I have a 3M foam pad, and a 3M wool pad, p21s paintwork prep or whatever its call, p21s 100% caurnuba ( siler cap )well i want to know what i should be using, i have a bunch of 3M stuff, like extra cut, glaze, swirl remover....
I just want to knowwhat products i should use in what order, and with polishing, what order with what pad..basically what you did to get the cars you have up looking how they do....my paint feels extremely smooth, so i know i dont need a clay, but i do have small scratched and some swirls i didnt get out that the detail shop left. my car has been buffed a few times in about a year, so i dont know about buffing it again, ......the scratches you can only see in direct headlights or direct sunlight...so i also basically want to know...what is the proper order? wash, dry, clay, seal...etc... and what products i should use with what pad..my color is carbon black, but i will also be doing a white car.
Will,

Thank you for your questions I think we can help you get on the right track. Here is the correct order for applying products. Wash, Dry, Clay Bar, Polish(s), Glaze, Sealant and Wax. The key step is really polishing if you want to improve the appearance of the paint. Washing and drying is where most swirls are added to the paint so make sure you have good products and proper techniques. I use a clay bar even on brand new vehicles, so really any vehicle can definitely use a clay bar. By removing contaminants your polishes will be more effective and your sealant/wax can bond to the paint better.

Polishing is the step where you can make the biggest improvement in the appearance of the paint. The key here is to go slow and really work the polishes in. Glazes, sealants and waxes can be applied a little quicker. I would suggest using at least one medium and light polish with matching pads. My favorite medium cutting polish is the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and my favorite light cutting polish is the Menzerna PO106FF. You can certainly use other options but these are my favorite ones to get the best results possible. I would use the medium polish with a medium cutting pad like our Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad. This will help remove some of the deeper imperfections. The Lake Country White Polishing Pad is what I use with my light polish to remove any haze and restore the optical clarity to the surface. Wool pads can be quite aggressive so a medium cutting foam pad would be more ideal.

Glazes are great and they help further hide imperfections and add more gloss. This is probably the least essential step but it is great to have if you want maximum results. The Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze or the Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze are my products of choice. I use the Lake Country Black Finishing Pad here.

Sealants provide the longest lasting protection so I highly recommend using one. I really love the Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 for this task. It is outstanding form of protection and it really makes the paint shine. Not to mention it is one of the easiest products to apply and remove. I apply sealants with the Blue Fine Finishing Pad.

You can stop with the sealant or get more protection and shine from layering a wax on top. Dodo Juice waxes are some of my favorites with the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue/Red Paste Waxes providing the most value.

Let me know if you need more information and advice on pads, polishes or any step in the process.

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:24 PM   #2266
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Question regarding wash your car during the winter.


My car is not garaged. I wanted to know if it's safe to wash my car during winter. I use Optimum No Rinse Wash, so I can get the water from inside the house (i.e., bucket and bathtub). I also have a waterproof microfiber mitt, so I'm not worried about frostbite either

What temperature should I make the water? I don't want to make it warm, then apply it to my car and have something crack. Any advice?
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Old 10-19-2008, 12:42 PM   #2267
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I think your process is just about spot on. When I wash in the winter I tend to use luke-warm water just so my hand doesn't freeze. I don't think you should have any issues with it being more dangerous and cracking. I also sometimes where a rubber glove to help keep the moisture off my skin. Let me know if you need any other tips.

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Old 10-20-2008, 09:13 PM   #2268
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Quick question, maybe not on product, but on swirl/scratch avoidance....

My car gets parked in an open, uncovered lot while I'm at work. If it snows during the day, I'm faced with a car covered with a layer of snow (sometimes pretty thick) when it's time to go home. I can use the scraper/brush on the windows, but I would imagine those things would wreck all kinds of havoc on the paint.

How do you guys get the remove snow without scratching the heck out of your paint?
thanks!
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:14 PM   #2269
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Originally Posted by uglycicles View Post
Quick question, maybe not on product, but on swirl/scratch avoidance....

My car gets parked in an open, uncovered lot while I'm at work. If it snows during the day, I'm faced with a car covered with a layer of snow (sometimes pretty thick) when it's time to go home. I can use the scraper/brush on the windows, but I would imagine those things would wreck all kinds of havoc on the paint.

How do you guys get the remove snow without scratching the heck out of your paint?
thanks!
If you don't use a scraper on the paint itself, you should be fine......

I have a snowbrush that has ultra fine bristles that are super soft......I have no problems so far causings swirls on my paint

-Kyle
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:26 PM   #2270
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thanks M0nk3y.
I'd never use the scraper on the paint, , but was worried more about the brush side and if anyone has had problems or used a different method.

maybe some of this comes from doing a full polish/wax this weekend ... don't want to ruin anything
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:47 PM   #2271
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thanks M0nk3y.
I'd never use the scraper on the paint, , but was worried more about the brush side and if anyone has had problems or used a different method.

maybe some of this comes from doing a full polish/wax this weekend ... don't want to ruin anything
My car was just detailed this last weekend. You should check out my thread

When my car has all of it's sealant, and wax on the car. It seems like my car is the only car that doesn't have snow on it in the whole parking lot. Believe it or not, Wax does help snow NOT stick to paint. I usually never have to brush off my car unless we get poured on with snow........

But the way I usually brush off snow is to never contact the paint itself. I usually just take layer off, each time with a swipe of the brush. Then I am left with a thin layer on the paint.......Then that usually just blows off after I get moving

Good luck, be safe this winter
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:04 AM   #2272
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Greg

Just placed my order. Thanks again for answering all of my questions.

Darby
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Old 10-21-2008, 12:18 PM   #2273
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Originally Posted by uglycicles View Post
Quick question, maybe not on product, but on swirl/scratch avoidance....

My car gets parked in an open, uncovered lot while I'm at work. If it snows during the day, I'm faced with a car covered with a layer of snow (sometimes pretty thick) when it's time to go home. I can use the scraper/brush on the windows, but I would imagine those things would wreck all kinds of havoc on the paint.

How do you guys get the remove snow without scratching the heck out of your paint?
thanks!
I typically use the softest brush possible and I only remove the top layer of snow. I usually leave about 1/2 inch to 1 inch on the paint. I also usually warm up my car for about 10 minutes so the snow melts as well. Always use safety first though and make sure you can drive safely.

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Old 10-21-2008, 12:19 PM   #2274
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Greg

Just placed my order. Thanks again for answering all of my questions.

Darby
Thank you for the purchase, you should receive the order shortly.

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Old 11-27-2008, 08:41 PM   #2275
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my car has a of swirls there not extremly bad but i want them gone. is the ssr2.5 to rough or should it be fine if followed by ssr1
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Old 11-28-2008, 01:18 AM   #2276
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I've noticed that there's a lot of swirl marks on my thule fairing, and I'm just wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of them.
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Old 11-28-2008, 01:18 AM   #2277
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I've noticed that there's a lot of swirl marks on my thule fairing, and I'm just wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of them.
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Old 11-28-2008, 01:12 PM   #2278
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my car has a of swirls there not extremly bad but i want them gone. is the ssr2.5 to rough or should it be fine if followed by ssr1
Now when you look at the paint there are two primary ways to evaluate the paint. You can look at the number of swirls and then their relative depth. Knowing the depth of imperfections is extremely difficult, however the law of averages will tell you that some are just bound to be deeper than others. If you have a lot of swirls you are more likely to need a multi-step polishing process. However many people with light to medium swirls make the mistake of thinking that a one step or two step process will totally restore their paint to like new. A one to two step polishing process may significantly improve the clarity of the clear coat but it may not fully remove all of the imperfections. Therefore just because you may only have a light to medium amount of swirls it can still take a multi-step process to remove all the imperfections.

Therefore I don't the SSR 2.5 would be too strong at all. Even on brand new vehicles I don't think there is anything wrong with using a medium polish like the SSR 2.5. I like the SSR 2.5 but I would suggest the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish or Intensive Polish over the SSR 2.5. In my experiences the Menzerna polishes generally gave me better results. I would probably use the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish and follow up with the Menzerna PO106FF. If you use the SSR 2.5, you'll be fine if you just follow it up with the SSR 1 or other quality light polish. Ideally you should apply any polish with a buffer. Polishes require a lot more heat and pressure to be properly worked in to the surface, so a buffer is very helpful for this step.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Old 11-28-2008, 01:14 PM   #2279
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I've noticed that there's a lot of swirl marks on my thule fairing, and I'm just wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of them.
I'm not exactly sure what the material is on that and what if any coating is on it. I would contact the mfg for polishing and protection recommendations. I would maybe do a little trial and error but that should be done at your own discretion. Please let us know if you find out anything important, I'm sure others would have the same question.

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Old 11-28-2008, 01:42 PM   #2280
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Thanks Greg, I was thinking about testing a little spot, but I just emailed them and I'll post back any info I get. Thanks


*UPDATE*


I received the following response from Thule Customer Service

Response (Michel) - 11/28/2008 05:49 PM
Thank you for your purchase of THULE products.

I have used car wax. It will do the most to improve appearance.

Please do not hesitate to write me if you require any further assistance.

Best regards,

Michel
Thule Consumer Service

Last edited by SDIREP; 11-28-2008 at 04:59 PM.
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