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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 11-29-2008, 10:27 AM   #2281
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Thanks for the update. I can see where a wax or sealant may protect the surface and temporarily hide the imperfections. However a wax or sealant will not correct the surface. If you are going to apply anything I would definitely use a sealant over a wax. It should last far longer, especially on a black surface that gets plenty of sun exposure.

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Old 12-01-2008, 05:14 AM   #2282
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I believe I read a post somewhere in this thread saying it should take about 1 hour to clay an entire car (assuming avg. sized coupe or sedan). Either that individual is on crack or I am waaaay overdoing it as it takes me at least 4-5 hours to clay my entire car (with maybe 2 small breaks as I'm going as fast as I can). This includes prepping the clay, claying every single piece of paint on the car minus the engine and trunk wells and wiping clay/detailing spray off each area so a second wash/dry is unnecessary.
So how long should it take to clay a coupe?

Also, when doing the following by hand, how long should it take:
apply/remove a mild polish?
apply/remove glaze and sealant?
apply/remove wax/top?

For the record, my experience with claying and polish is that they are miracle workers on dark colors (ie, carbon black metallic) and an absolute must-do at least twice a year. The first time I clayed/polished/waxed my '04 carbon black e46, I was floored by the results and that was just using off the shelf Meguiars products. The results were incredible.
However, the benefits were not nearly as noticeable on a light color (ie, alpine white) and if you clayed/polished once a year or four times a year, the noticeable difference would be minimal IMO. After spending 10 hours doing this on an '04 alpine white e46, I was actually pretty disappointed at first because while the car was obviously very clean and shiny, the results didn't coincide with the amount of work required. I know that a basic white colored paint cannot match a dark metallic paint in terms of depth and pop but is there a way to acheive better results on white paint with the various products? If so, what do you suggest?
Thanks!
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:37 PM   #2283
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Originally Posted by hexadecim8 View Post
I believe I read a post somewhere in this thread saying it should take about 1 hour to clay an entire car (assuming avg. sized coupe or sedan). Either that individual is on crack or I am waaaay overdoing it as it takes me at least 4-5 hours to clay my entire car (with maybe 2 small breaks as I'm going as fast as I can). This includes prepping the clay, claying every single piece of paint on the car minus the engine and trunk wells and wiping clay/detailing spray off each area so a second wash/dry is unnecessary.
So how long should it take to clay a coupe?

Also, when doing the following by hand, how long should it take:
apply/remove a mild polish?
apply/remove glaze and sealant?
apply/remove wax/top?

For the record, my experience with claying and polish is that they are miracle workers on dark colors (ie, carbon black metallic) and an absolute must-do at least twice a year. The first time I clayed/polished/waxed my '04 carbon black e46, I was floored by the results and that was just using off the shelf Meguiars products. The results were incredible.
However, the benefits were not nearly as noticeable on a light color (ie, alpine white) and if you clayed/polished once a year or four times a year, the noticeable difference would be minimal IMO. After spending 10 hours doing this on an '04 alpine white e46, I was actually pretty disappointed at first because while the car was obviously very clean and shiny, the results didn't coincide with the amount of work required. I know that a basic white colored paint cannot match a dark metallic paint in terms of depth and pop but is there a way to acheive better results on white paint with the various products? If so, what do you suggest?
Thanks!
Great questions. Everyone's process and expectations are different so I'm not surprised that it took 5 hours. It does seem a little bit long, but if you are very meticulous and the vehicle was heavily contaminated I could easily see it taking that long. I think one hour or less is tough to do unless it's a smaller vehicle that has very light contamination. I would say 2 - 3 hours is more the norm for a quality clay bar job on an average size vehicle with medium build ups.

Again the time it takes to apply the other products is going to vary quite a bit based on your technique, product choice, application method, etc. The polishing step would most likely take the longest. This is the step where you can most noticeably improve the appearance of the clear coat by removing imperfections and making the surface optically clear. Polishes require more heat and pressure to be broken down and worked into the surface. This is also the step you really want a buffer for significant results. This would be a great way to improve your results. Ballpark figure here is about 1.5 - 2 hours per coat.

Applying the glaze, sealant and wax is basically all the same because you are basically spreading the product. I would say about 1 hour - 1.5 hours is about normal.

Try not to focus too much on the time, because really it will vary quite a bit based on so many different factors. For better results try doing a medium and light polish with a buffer. I would say this will help provide the most significant improvement. You may also want to investigate some other products for glazes, sealant and waxes to best meet your vehicles needs. If you would like a recommendation please let me know what you are using and what areas you would like more information on.

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Old 12-02-2008, 06:00 PM   #2284
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Today's Daily special (December 2, 2008) is Optimum (OPT) Opti-Seal.



Regular Price for 8 oz is $24.99. Today's price is $17.50!
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:33 AM   #2285
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Great questions. Everyone's process and expectations are different so I'm not surprised that it took 5 hours. It does seem a little bit long, but if you are very meticulous and the vehicle was heavily contaminated I could easily see it taking that long. I think one hour or less is tough to do unless it's a smaller vehicle that has very light contamination. I would say 2 - 3 hours is more the norm for a quality clay bar job on an average size vehicle with medium build ups.

Again the time it takes to apply the other products is going to vary quite a bit based on your technique, product choice, application method, etc. The polishing step would most likely take the longest. This is the step where you can most noticeably improve the appearance of the clear coat by removing imperfections and making the surface optically clear. Polishes require more heat and pressure to be broken down and worked into the surface. This is also the step you really want a buffer for significant results. This would be a great way to improve your results. Ballpark figure here is about 1.5 - 2 hours per coat.

Applying the glaze, sealant and wax is basically all the same because you are basically spreading the product. I would say about 1 hour - 1.5 hours is about normal.

Try not to focus too much on the time, because really it will vary quite a bit based on so many different factors. For better results try doing a medium and light polish with a buffer. I would say this will help provide the most significant improvement. You may also want to investigate some other products for glazes, sealant and waxes to best meet your vehicles needs. If you would like a recommendation please let me know what you are using and what areas you would like more information on.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Great information Greg, thanks for replying! I will keep this and PM you sometime in the next couple of months when I'm ready to spend a wad on some of your quality products
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Old 12-08-2008, 08:29 PM   #2286
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Great information Greg, thanks for replying! I will keep this and PM you sometime in the next couple of months when I'm ready to spend a wad on some of your quality products
Glad to hear the information was helpful. I look forward to hearing from you when you are ready!

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Old 12-08-2008, 09:32 PM   #2287
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Hey Greg, what are the options of taking off a pinstripe? I may have a customer who might request that soon for his car. I know there is the 3M tool and razorblade options but is that it? Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2008, 01:08 AM   #2288
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Hey Greg, what are the options of taking off a pinstripe? I may have a customer who might request that soon for his car. I know there is the 3M tool and razorblade options but is that it? Thanks!
Yeah, 3M pinstripe removal tool or hairdryer & razorblade or hairdryer & fingernail are what I know of.
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Old 12-14-2008, 11:15 AM   #2289
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Sorry I'm not sure how I missed this post earlier. Assuming it's a pinstripe on top of the clear coat you should be able to remove it no problem. I would avoid the razor blade if at all possible. I would use a hair dryer and try and loosen up the adhesives with my hand. Usually I can get the corner of it pretty easy then it's just a matter of going slow pulling the stripe and holding the hair dryer close to the stripe. When you are done you can remove excess residue with some clay bar or Goo Gone. I also recommend polishing the surface after just so the clear coat looks and feels totally uniform. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Old 12-14-2008, 08:32 PM   #2290
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how come yall stopped carrying the aerospace general purpose cleaners? Is there something better you recommend, I was looking for something particularly for the interior?
Thanks A lot
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:00 PM   #2291
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wow my mistake I typed in detailed image on google and was on some other detail site that was very similar to yours i thought yall had updated or something my bad. Anyways what would be a good degreaser or something to remove some really stubborn sap that has dried up and some bug grime?
Thanks
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:32 PM   #2292
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Hey greg. I had my car buffed about two years ago at a dealership and they made my perfect paint look like this --->
My swirls are in a circular fashion sized perfectly to a buffer pad. They refunded me my money so I decided fine Ill try again. Well after time i noticed i have swirl marks up and down the doors and panels of the car EVERYWHERE. I had someone else try just two months ago and they made some spots look better but ALL of the damage done by the initial buffing remain. Do you think its possible to do anything about it or is the paint a lost cause. I'm assuming the last thing I can do is get my hands on my friends porter cable and order some products and pads and try myself. what do you think?
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:57 PM   #2293
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wow my mistake I typed in detailed image on google and was on some other detail site that was very similar to yours i thought yall had updated or something my bad. Anyways what would be a good degreaser or something to remove some really stubborn sap that has dried up and some bug grime?
Thanks
Glad to hear you found our site. For general cleaning on the interior (carpets, vinyl, plastics, etc.) I recommend the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover to most people, it's simply amazing. If you want the best value you can get this cleaner concentrated with the 303 Fabric and Vinyl Cleaner. I typically dilute it around 8:1 (water to cleaner) for an outstanding value.

Sap is a detailers worst nightmare, especially if it dried out. I've used a pressure washer on them with some good success, especially if it's fresh. I have used a variety of products with moderate success like Goo Gone, 3M Adhesive Remover, Mineral Spirits etc. This process can take A LOT of time, but it pays to be patient. I typically soak a soft cloth and carefully rub the area and remove section slowly. When I'm done I recommend you thoroughly wash the area and use a clay bar and polish to fully remove the remaining residue and ensure the surface is back to new again. Good luck!

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Old 12-15-2008, 05:18 PM   #2294
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Hey greg. I had my car buffed about two years ago at a dealership and they made my perfect paint look like this --->
My swirls are in a circular fashion sized perfectly to a buffer pad. They refunded me my money so I decided fine Ill try again. Well after time i noticed i have swirl marks up and down the doors and panels of the car EVERYWHERE. I had someone else try just two months ago and they made some spots look better but ALL of the damage done by the initial buffing remain. Do you think its possible to do anything about it or is the paint a lost cause. I'm assuming the last thing I can do is get my hands on my friends porter cable and order some products and pads and try myself. what do you think?
Sorry to hear about your unfortunate detailing experience. It's pretty common for a detailer to leave the marks in the surface shown in the photo above. The worst part is that often times the wax, etc. covers it up temporarily and it's hard to see without proper lighting. Removing those marks is definitely possible but a buffer is most likely going to be required. I think you hit the nail on the head with borrowing your friends PC 7424. It's possible you could need even a stronger buffer but the PC 7424 should at least significantly improve the surface if not totally fix it. If interested a Flex XC 3401 VRG may be a better option but I realize this would be a lot bigger investment. With either buffer I would suggest using at least a medium and light polish with the PC 7424. I most likely would start with the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (medium) with the orange light cutting pad and then use the Menzerna PO106FF (light) with the white polishing pad. If you want a cheaper option try the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Menzerna Final Polish II. Assuming your friend has a buffer with a backing plate you should only need those other four items (2x polishes and 2x pads) plus some good microfiber towels to buff off the excess product. With either combination you'll want to go nice and slow and apply a fair amount of pressure to the buffer for increased heat and pressure. This combination should help remove a lot of the surface imperfections and restore a more optically clear surface. Let me know if you have any questions or concerns.

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Old 12-17-2008, 03:47 PM   #2295
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hmm. Okay then. I guess I'll get in touch with him at some point and see if he is willing to help me out with my problems Thanks
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:42 AM   #2296
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Sounds like a plan. Give yourself plenty of time to complete the detail and I also recommend practicing a little bit to get the best results possible. Sometimes I just do one panel with different combination's of speed, pressure, pads, polishes, etc. to make sure I'm getting the desired results. Keep us posted on how it goes and if you are able to improve the surface.

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Old 12-26-2008, 12:49 PM   #2297
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Hey Greg...

My dad just bought me the porter cable kit from your site, MERRY christmas to me!

Cant wait to try this stuff out, any suggestions for a first timer past those on your website?

thanks

Devon
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Old 12-26-2008, 12:49 PM   #2298
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Hey Greg...

My dad just bought me the porter cable kit from your site, MERRY christmas to me!

Cant wait to try this stuff out, any suggestions for a first timer past those on your website?

thanks

Devon
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:39 PM   #2299
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Glad to hear you got an awesome Christmas present! After you have read our Guide I would suggest taking your time and practicing before you start a full detail. I usually practice on a panel and make sure I'm getting the results I want before I doa full detail. I also recommend giving yourself more time than you think you need, just in case you need it. For maximum cutting power, with the polishes, don't be afraid to apply a light to medium pressure to the back of the PC 7424. I also suggest joining our detailing forum (www.detailuniversity.com) to see what other detailers are suggesting. If you have any questions please let me know. Good Luck!

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Old 12-26-2008, 05:28 PM   #2300
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Hey thanks man...

we both tried it this morning on his volvo... with fantastic results, I'll have some pictures up in this thread later this weekend probably. YGPM

thanks again
Devon
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