E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Car Care & Detailing

Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 37 votes, 5.00 average.
Old 01-21-2009, 11:02 PM   #2321
New_2_BMW
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 121
My Ride: '03 325xi
I have a question about the detailing process and haven't able to find it. I recently had my car painted and at the 60 day mark, I plan to do a full detail. My questions are these:
1) I want to used trim treatment, do i put it on first, then tape it off and wax OR do I wax first, then treat the trim?
2) The shop i had it pained at told me that they polished it after painting and that all i needed was a wax at 60 days. I already see spider webbing (paint is oriental blue) and am wondering if i should use a sealant before i wax?

Thank you
New_2_BMW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 09:25 AM   #2322
330CiC2001
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Hartford,ct
Posts: 64
My Ride: 01 330CiC
Greg,

Im trying to buy a product for my convertible top that will REPEL the water off the top,, I saw this video of 303 high tech fabric guard and im considering buying it. I just wanted to know if I am going to get the same results as in this video below??? will this product repel water that good??


thanks
__________________
Detailed Image Auto Detailing Supplies
330CiC2001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 11:18 AM   #2323
boltonic
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 258
My Ride: 2005 325cic
Quote:
Originally Posted by 330CiC2001 View Post
Greg,

Im trying to buy a product for my convertible top that will REPEL the water off the top,, I saw this video of 303 high tech fabric guard and im considering buying it. I just wanted to know if I am going to get the same results as in this video below??? will this product repel water that good??


thanks
303 does work. I have it and have no complaints.
boltonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 11:24 AM   #2324
330CiC2001
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Hartford,ct
Posts: 64
My Ride: 01 330CiC
/\ does it repel as good as in the video?
__________________
Detailed Image Auto Detailing Supplies
330CiC2001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 01:41 PM   #2325
alibusoul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fort Worth, TX - TCU
Posts: 1,357
My Ride: TiAg e46 Vert
Hi Greg my dad has a 91 Jag (its only got 41k miles) well its got really bad hazing and on the the roof and trunk (i have pics attached).

I took it in to a car wash to get a quote to buff and clean it up and they want $300 at the least for the whole car. I know that doesnt sound right. Could you give me a list of all the products to use (i will purchase them from so since you helped). And could you give me instructions on how to tackle this!

Im new to detailing so i want to do it by hand. i know a buffer is the best choice but I dont want to attempt for obvious reasons.

In the top right corner of the trunk is where the detailer showed me a little sample of whats it would look like, it looks great! it took him like 30 sec to do that, i couldnt believe he wanted to charge me that much. he gave me this big speech of how much labor he would have to do I know its bad but damn!

And on a side note, would you recommend 303 fabric guard or the aerospace protectant for my top?? thanks Greg
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC04389.JPG
Views:	50
Size:	192.0 KB
ID:	299609   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC04391.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	169.8 KB
ID:	299610  

Last edited by alibusoul; 01-22-2009 at 02:01 PM.
alibusoul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2009, 09:31 PM   #2326
eyezack87
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: 949 SoCal
Posts: 1,444
My Ride: ...
Greg, so far the Makita with the stock BP is working pretty well on my test trunk. I managed to get rid of 80% of the defects with FPII and a white LC pad. After that was taken care of, I upped it to orange LC with SIP. 100% corrected except a heavily etched in bird dropping. I'll post pics when I finish the 1/4 panel
__________________
Need a detailer in SoCal? Shoot me a PM. I am located by Mission Viejo/Irvine
eyezack87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2009, 11:28 AM   #2327
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by M0nk3y View Post
Greg,

Does your company ever have plans to stock more Wool Pads?

Now that I am completely switched over to a rotary, the Orange LC pads skip a ton and are a PITA to handle.....

After seeing what a PFW can do with SIP, I just wanna trade my LCC Foam pads in for some Wool.....

Ideas?
The Lake Country purple foamed wool pad does work great. It has excellent cutting power and finishes down very smooth. It is also easier to use with a rotary buffer as you mentioned. At this time we don't have plans for more wool pads. If you see something from Lake Country or another site you like feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail. We're always looking for input on new products so please feel free to share your thoughts.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2009, 11:43 AM   #2328
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by New_2_BMW View Post
I have a question about the detailing process and haven't able to find it. I recently had my car painted and at the 60 day mark, I plan to do a full detail. My questions are these:
1) I want to used trim treatment, do i put it on first, then tape it off and wax OR do I wax first, then treat the trim?
2) The shop i had it pained at told me that they polished it after painting and that all i needed was a wax at 60 days. I already see spider webbing (paint is oriental blue) and am wondering if i should use a sealant before i wax?

Thank you
I would suggest waxing first and taping off the trim. Then remove the trim and treat the trim carefully. If you happen to get any on the paint it should wipe up easily.

Your second question is more puzzling to me, because if they just painted it, there really shouldn't be spider webbing or swirls. Additionally after a good polishing there should be less swirls because this step is designed to eliminate them. As you suggested yes I would recommend that you apply a sealant (i.e. Chemical Guys Jetseal 109) before applying a wax. A sealant will generally last much longer and you can layer a wax over it for added depth and protection. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2009, 11:46 AM   #2329
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by 330CiC2001 View Post
Greg,

Im trying to buy a product for my convertible top that will REPEL the water off the top,, I saw this video of 303 high tech fabric guard and im considering buying it. I just wanted to know if I am going to get the same results as in this video below??? will this product repel water that good??
thanks
I know we covered this in your other post about this but I'll copy my response here as well. For soft tops the 303 Convertible Top Cleaner and the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard are my products of choice. With the right application you can get comparable results to the video. The first step would be to make sure the surface is clean as possible. Spray the affected areas with the 303 Convertible Top Cleaner and agitate them with a soft brush or towel. Repeat as needed until the surface is clean and then let the entire surface fully dry. Next spray the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard all over the top. Try and apply nice even coats by holding the bottle the same distance away. Make sure the surface is thoroughly coated for best protection. You can tape of the trim and use a towel to help prevent over spray on to the paint. If you do get it on other surfaces just wipe them up quickly. I have even cut out the bottom of a shoe box and sprayed it through there to help evenly apply the product and prevent over spray. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2009, 12:57 PM   #2330
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by alibusoul View Post
Hi Greg my dad has a 91 Jag (its only got 41k miles) well its got really bad hazing and on the the roof and trunk (i have pics attached).

I took it in to a car wash to get a quote to buff and clean it up and they want $300 at the least for the whole car. I know that doesnt sound right. Could you give me a list of all the products to use (i will purchase them from so since you helped). And could you give me instructions on how to tackle this!

Im new to detailing so i want to do it by hand. i know a buffer is the best choice but I dont want to attempt for obvious reasons.

In the top right corner of the trunk is where the detailer showed me a little sample of whats it would look like, it looks great! it took him like 30 sec to do that, i couldnt believe he wanted to charge me that much. he gave me this big speech of how much labor he would have to do I know its bad but damn!

And on a side note, would you recommend 303 fabric guard or the aerospace protectant for my top?? thanks Greg
Great to hear you are ready to tackle this job and restore the shine. That is a tremendous amount of haze but it looks like you should be able to significantly improve the surface. $300 is about the normal price for a full detail where there is a multi-step polishing process, assuming they do high quality work.

You can certainly do this by hand to some extent but a buffer would be very helpful if you want to remove the swirls as well as some of the oxidation. A buffer can generate more heat and pressure to really work in the polish for optimal results. I know a buffer can seem intimidating but we do have some very safe and easy to use buffers like the Porter Cable 7424 or Flex XC 3401 VRG if you are interested.

At a bare minimum I would recommend you use a light polish (Menzerna Final Polish II) to help remove the oxidation and some light imperfections. Using a medium polish (Menzerna Intensive Polish) and light polish (Menzerna Final Polish II) would be more effective and help remove more of the swirls, etc. I would recommend applying them with our red foam applicator and removing the excess product with the DI All Purpose Microfiber Towel.

After polishing it's important to apply a quality sealant to the paint for valuable protection. The Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 is probably the strongest form of protection and it's on sale this month so you'll save $10.

For the top if it's clear coated like the rest of the vehicle you can protect it with the same sealant you use on the paint. If it's a vinyl top I recommend the 303 Aerospace Protectant. For fabric tops the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard is my product of choice.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2009, 12:58 PM   #2331
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyezack87 View Post
Greg, so far the Makita with the stock BP is working pretty well on my test trunk. I managed to get rid of 80% of the defects with FPII and a white LC pad. After that was taken care of, I upped it to orange LC with SIP. 100% corrected except a heavily etched in bird dropping. I'll post pics when I finish the 1/4 panel
Glad to hear things are going well and you're already getting great results. I look forward to seeing the pictures.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2009, 03:33 PM   #2332
alibusoul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fort Worth, TX - TCU
Posts: 1,357
My Ride: TiAg e46 Vert
Thanks greg! im about to put in that order, what order should i do it in (im buying both polishers)? Of course i should wash and dry the car first, but should i wash and dry after??
alibusoul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2009, 07:23 PM   #2333
eyezack87
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: 949 SoCal
Posts: 1,444
My Ride: ...
Hehe, this is what I do when I'm bored and its raining outside. Too bad my PC isn't back () for comparison shots though . All done with Makita, LC orange+SIP and LC white+Menzerna FPII

Split the hood in 4 and tackled the part you see here:


Not Corrected:


Corrected:


Not Corrected:


Corrected:


Obviously there are slight holograms in it but for my first time, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I think the body shop will be impressed when I bring it back to them to throw the bootlid away
__________________
Need a detailer in SoCal? Shoot me a PM. I am located by Mission Viejo/Irvine
eyezack87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 10:22 AM   #2334
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by alibusoul View Post
Thanks greg! im about to put in that order, what order should i do it in (im buying both polishers)? Of course i should wash and dry the car first, but should i wash and dry after??
If you are going to get both apply the medium polish first (Menzerna Intensive Polish) and follow it up with the light polish (Menzerna Final Polish II). Take your time and apply good medium to firm pressure for best results. Thank you for your support and good luck with the upcoming detail.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 10:27 AM   #2335
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyezack87 View Post
Hehe, this is what I do when I'm bored and its raining outside. Too bad my PC isn't back () for comparison shots though . All done with Makita, LC orange+SIP and LC white+Menzerna FPII

Obviously there are slight holograms in it but for my first time, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I think the body shop will be impressed when I bring it back to them to throw the bootlid away
Excellent work on removing the imperfections! It looks like your getting good with the buffer rather quickly. Eliminating that light hologram can be tough. You can try using a black finishing pad or the blue fine finishing pad and a light polish to further reduce them. Additionally you can use an ultra fine polish like the Menzerna PO85RD if desired for one of the finest polishes out there. I'm sure you'll get the hang of it with some more practice. Thanks for sharing!

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 06:16 PM   #2336
eyezack87
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: 949 SoCal
Posts: 1,444
My Ride: ...
After those pictures, I managed to remove the holograms with FPII and a black pad @ 600rpms. I think that was too slow of an rpm since it lasted well over 10 minutes but it worked lol

I also experimented with mixings for the orange pad. I did a 70% SIP and 30% FPII mixture and it worked longer with less dusting. The finish was even better than that picture too after one hit . Might be a good one step polish if I can get the ratios right and the holograms eliminated
__________________
Need a detailer in SoCal? Shoot me a PM. I am located by Mission Viejo/Irvine
eyezack87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2009, 05:36 PM   #2337
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
Excellent work! Sounds like everything is progressing nicely. It's also great that you have a rotary that goes down to 600 RPMs, most of them start much higher. As for your SIP and FPII mix Menzerna has already beat you to the punch with the Menzerna Power Finish aka Menzerna PO203S. This is a light to medium polish that shouldn't dust much and can finish down quite well. A lot of detailers like to follow this up with the Menzerna PO85RD and a blue pad to burnish or "jewel" the paint.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2009, 12:44 AM   #2338
eyezack87
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: 949 SoCal
Posts: 1,444
My Ride: ...
Ahh, so its similar to my mixture. I have not heard much about Power Finish's capabilities in detail. Hmm, I may add it to my package of $150 in presents for my new Makita

Small update on my PC though. Since they have not called me for an update like they said they would. I'm calling tomorrow and seeing what is up. 2 weeks in the sick bay should be plenty of time for a place that doesn't receive much traffic
__________________
Need a detailer in SoCal? Shoot me a PM. I am located by Mission Viejo/Irvine
eyezack87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2009, 11:35 AM   #2339
eyezack87
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: 949 SoCal
Posts: 1,444
My Ride: ...
Update:

It must have been some parts that weren't designed to break as they are still waiting on the shaft+housing replacements . Maybe I should pull an FMINUS and buy 2 of them like he did to solve his Metabo overheating problem
__________________
Need a detailer in SoCal? Shoot me a PM. I am located by Mission Viejo/Irvine
eyezack87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2009, 01:10 PM   #2340
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,961
My Ride: is clean & protected
The Power Finish is a newer formulation that doesn't get too much hype but it's an exceptional product. It seems like most people like to use the Menzerna SIP and PO106FF while some others prefer the Power Finish and PO85RD. Like most things in detailing it really comes down to your personal preference.

Good to know. Most of the repairs can be done quickly but I could see where a more uncommon problem may slow things down. Giving the occasional call will hopefully keep things moving so they can get back to you in a timely manner. I always kept two PC's around as an insurance that I would never be without one. Hopefully you two will be reunited soon. Take Care!

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use