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I dont know the technical name for this procedure... is it worth getting a permagard or zymol or something coating?

Eg. www.permagard.info

These guys apply some kind of coating which then makes it simpler to wash your car.

Originally Posted by mustang1

I dont know the technical name for this procedure... is it worth getting a permagard or zymol or something coating?

Eg. www.permagard.info

These guys apply some kind of coating which then makes it simpler to wash your car.

Honestly its no different than doing it yourself and you'll probably get better results if you do it yourself! Pick up the right products and you'll get longer protection and better gloss and depth. Those things are just a scam and usually way overpriced for doing no more than putting a coat of sealant on. I've seen some stealerships charge upwards around $600-1000 which is a complete joke.

OK so this is not a PURE detailing question but perhaps you'll be kind enough to answer...

I was taking a basket of recycleables to the center, and I had a heavy metal piece of pipe that came out of the kitchen makeover. Of course I nicked the edge of the DS backdoor on the car side (not the door) about midway down the edge. I wasn't too worried as it was a small chip, about half the size of a pencil eraser and I was sure it was only down to primer.. Well, darned if it isn't starting to turn brown which means rust..


I have 2 tubes of touch up (the paint and the clear coat), and I've read about glueing sandpaper to pencil erasers, but I haven't had any success with that approach, So, my question is how FAR or should I say how much bigger should I sand around the chip before applying primer and then paint..

Whats the recommended waiting period between steps, and can I buy "Rustoleum" primer from Home Depot ....and spray it into a cap and use a artist brush to apply..

Any other secrets to making this look good...???

A million thanks !!

ED in NJ

Check out this thread that was made about using touch up paint Part I Part II

If you're having problems getting the sandpaper onto the pencil tip, you can use just a sanding block. You can wetsand around the area as much as you want, it will buff out but you're just creating more work for yourself. Make sure you end up wetsanding with super fine grades of sandpaper 2000 - 2500 or you'll have a tough time buffing out the wetsanding marks.

The key to a good touch up is wetsanding the blob of touch up you put on to a level surface then polishing it up to clean up the scuff marks.

Greg @ Detailed Image

How does one clean polishing pads they used for applying products like Klasse AIO etc? (If you don't have those little packets of cleaner?)

I just got the SSR 2.5 and the klasse AIO with the microfiber towels. Now as i was reading this thread it says to follow the 2.5 with the SSR 1. Is this necessary, im going to be doing my dads jet black 5 series. It has some minor swirls and scratches on it. Nothing like the black mercedes that u posted pictures of. I just need to know if its safe to just use the ssr 2.5 and then remove that and apply the Klasse AIO and remove. I was reading that you recommend the 1.0 too. I was hoping to skip that step but if its completely necessary i guess i will order that too. Please let me know what to do.

If I'm not mistaken didn't we end up suggesting going with SSR 2 (not the 2.5) since your car(s) just had some minor imperfections. When going with SSR 2, you can jump right to AIO afterwards. The reason the 2.5 and 1 go together is sometimes you will see a slight haze with the 2.5 and then the 1 cleans that right up, but you shouldn't see that with the SSR 2. I could be thinking of someone else, but double check I think you have the SSR 2

George

Originally Posted by 02White330Ci

I just got the SSR 2.5 and the klasse AIO with the microfiber towels. Now as i was reading this thread it says to follow the 2.5 with the SSR 1. Is this necessary, im going to be doing my dads jet black 5 series. It has some minor swirls and scratches on it. Nothing like the black mercedes that u posted pictures of. I just need to know if its safe to just use the ssr 2.5 and then remove that and apply the Klasse AIO and remove. I was reading that you recommend the 1.0 too. I was hoping to skip that step but if its completely necessary i guess i will order that too. Please let me know what to do.

Originally Posted by SladeCJ

How does one clean polishing pads they used for applying products like Klasse AIO etc? (If you don't have those little packets of cleaner?)

You can clean the surface of the pad by taking a damp towel/rag and wipe across the surface of the pad. This will help get some of the product off the surface. To get a deep cleaning I use the Snappy Clean powder packets.


Greg @ Detailed Image

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

If I'm not mistaken didn't we end up suggesting going with SSR 2 (not the 2.5) since your car(s) just had some minor imperfections. When going with SSR 2, you can jump right to AIO afterwards. The reason the 2.5 and 1 go together is sometimes you will see a slight haze with the 2.5 and then the 1 cleans that right up, but you shouldn't see that with the SSR 2. I could be thinking of someone else, but double check I think you have the SSR 2

George

I know that I had went with SSR 2 instead of 2.5, so maybe you were thinking of me? But I went ahead and did SSR 1 after 2, even though the hazing isn't as apparent as if I had used 2.5.

Originally Posted by Lugnut2683

I know that I had went with SSR 2 instead of 2.5, so maybe you were thinking of me? But I went ahead and did SSR 1 after 2, even though the hazing isn't as apparent as if I had used 2.5.

Haha, nope... we did a similar order AIO then SSR 2 to NJ within the last week or so, so I'm pretty sure its him Thanks for the response though!

How'd you like the SSR 2 though? Good results with it?

George

great thread.

I have a light scratch showing white on my black car. I have no prior experience using a scratch remover. Any recommendations on how to do this? The product I have is scratch-x.
I actually had a detailer come out and look at the car and suggested that i do it myself.

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

How'd you like the SSR 2 though? Good results with it?
George

It worked great, but in the future, even on a newer car, I think I will end up going with the 2.5.

Originally Posted by reactionsok

great thread.

I have a light scratch showing white on my black car. I have no prior experience using a scratch remover. Any recommendations on how to do this? The product I have is scratch-x.
I actually had a detailer come out and look at the car and suggested that i do it myself.

There's not that much too it... wash / dry surface... buff / rub on the scratch-x, remove left over polish... follow up with a sealant or wax to protect the area since the polish stripped any protection you may have.

If the scratch-x doesn't work its because its pretty fine polish, something like the SSR 2.5 would be more aggressive and you'd have better luck with that. Many people have tried scratch-x with little to no results then switch to the Poorboy's and it cleaned up their paint with ease.

George

Originally Posted by reactionsok

great thread.

I have a light scratch showing white on my black car. I have no prior experience using a scratch remover. Any recommendations on how to do this? The product I have is scratch-x.
I actually had a detailer come out and look at the car and suggested that i do it myself.

Could you clarify what you mean by "showing white"? Is the scratch down to the clear coat, paint or primer?

Greg @ Detailed Image

Originally Posted by Gregs

Could you clarify what you mean by "showing white"? Is the scratch down to the clear coat, paint or primer?

Greg @ Detailed Image

down to the clear coat.

Originally Posted by reactionsok

down to the clear coat.

I would then follow George's recommendation and get the SSR 2.5. Follow this up with the SSR 1.0 and that area should look as good as new.

Greg @ Detailed Image

if i get a PC, do you recomment Optimum or SSR? .. just want your opinion on it, i hear Optimum is easier to work with

Originally Posted by zaink

if i get a PC, do you recomment Optimum or SSR? .. just want your opinion on it, i hear Optimum is easier to work with

I haven't used the optimum polish so I can't really say. I have used a lot of different abraisve polishes though and the SSR's give the best results and easiest application when applying with a Porter Cable. The Poorboy's World SSR line has gained a lot of popularity due to its ease of application for experts and novices.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Haha, nope... we did a similar order AIO then SSR 2 to NJ within the last week or so, so I'm pretty sure its him Thanks for the response though!

How'd you like the SSR 2 though? Good results with it?

George

Yes that was me and you were right i did get the SSR 2, not the SSR 2.5 that i thought. I cant wait to use the products tommorow on my dad's car. I had my grandmothers car in the garage, so i cleaned half the hood off and used the SSR 2 and followed with Klasse AIO, and what a difference it makes. Great products!!!

This may be a dumb question but I've had my 2002 330i (Alpine White) for 3 1/2 years and I wash it at least every other week and wax it (Zymol) two times per year. The paint seems pretty good to me but I'd like to do a full clean/wax or whatever I need to do to make it look perfect again. I've never used a clay bar or done anything else besides wash and wax it and am not sure where to start other than that. What steps and or applications would you suggest??? Thanks in advance...