Ask a professional detailer...

Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage.com

Makes perfect sense and it's a common problem. Before cleaning the glass put the glass down all the way. I would take a product like the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover, P21S Total Auto Wash or similar product and thoroughly wipe down the trim where the glass touches. Make sure you do both sides multiple times and don't forget to wipe down the top piece as well. I often find this area can be extremely dirty and it requires quite a few passes to get it thoroughly clean. After this task roll the window up and inspect it. If you see any more build ups you may need to repeat the process. After that clean the glass like normal. I would also highly recommend reading our detailing guide for Glass Care to ensure you are getting the best cleaning possible and not leaving streaks behind. Often times the streaks are not visible at first but can be later seen in different lighting. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Great thanks for advise. One other question I had that I forgot to mention. It is extremely hard to get in between the trim and the window and there doesn't seem to be enough space to even get a rag in there. Is there a special tool, method, or rag that you use to get in between the glass and the trim? Also on an unrelated note what AIO polish and sealant that DI sells is the best? I'm not worried about the price just the best product. Thanks again for all your help.

Originally Posted by adroc33

Great thanks for advise. One other question I had that I forgot to mention. It is extremely hard to get in between the trim and the window and there doesn't seem to be enough space to even get a rag in there. Is there a special tool, method, or rag that you use to get in between the glass and the trim? Also on an unrelated note what AIO polish and sealant that DI sells is the best? I'm not worried about the price just the best product. Thanks again for all your help.

I understanding it may be tight but you should be able to get a rag in there. If you need assistance place the rag around a plastic putty knife or a similar flat and not too sharp object. Carefully slide it in the there and it should help you clean it out. No special cloth is needed I generally use the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. If that is too "grippy" try a regular old cotton t-shirt or rag.

For an AIO product we have tons of great ones but the Klasse All In One (AIO) is a favorite of so many people. You only need about 1oz per coat and it will help clean and protect the surface in one step. You can also use this on your glass to help the water bead off of it.

One other glass care product I have to mention is the Glass Science Glass Scrub. I use this on the exterior glass to deep clean it. You would be surprised how helpful this step is. After you are done you can then use the AIO or other sealant to protect the glass. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hi Greg,

Please recommend products for:

• Good Wash and Dry Kit
  
• I got a detail and color sanding about 4 months ago and they recommended a Meguire Number ? to maintain the finish. I have not done this. What would you recommend?
  
• A product to take jean stains off Tan Leatherette. Pretty ingrained at this point.
  
• A quick detailer.

Thanks very much.

Originally Posted by edjerum

Hi Greg,

Please recommend products for:

• Good Wash and Dry Kit
  
• I got a detail and color sanding about 4 months ago and they recommended a Meguire Number ? to maintain the finish. I have not done this. What would you recommend?
  
• A product to take jean stains off Tan Leatherette. Pretty ingrained at this point.
  
• A quick detailer.

Thanks very much.

Thank you for the inquiry and I'd be happy to help. For washing and drying we have several kits that offer a great value. I most commonly recommend our Washing and Drying Starter Kit listed below, but I'll list some others as well.

DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package
DI Packages Washing and Drying Advanced Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Ultimate Kit

We carry a wide variety of the Meguiar's on our site to help you out. I'm not sure what they are referring to but you may need to polish and protect the paint. The Meguiar's M205 and M105 are the most effective polishes I have used from them. After that I protect the paint with a sealant like the Meguiar's Synthetic Sealant 2.0 M21. I personally like the Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant and Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger better for my sealant but if you feel more comfortable with the Meguiar's products that is fine as well.

The dye from jeans can be tough to remove but it is possible. I start off with a good leatherette cleaner and conditioner like Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil. They are a powerful combination that helps restore seats to like new condition. If you need a less expensive or one step option try the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff. If those products do not fully remove the dye then I would use a product like the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover. I normally use it just on fabrics, vinyl, plastic, etc. but I will sometimes spot treat stubborn stains on leather/leatherette with it. When I'm done I use a leather conditioner on that area to ensure it stays in peak condition.

For a Quick Detailer we have tons of great options. If you want to just clean the surface the Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe (S&W) is a great option. If you want to clean the paint and add a little bit of shine then Poorboy's World Spray & Gloss (S&G) may be a better option. If you want a spray on form of protection I recommend the Optimum (OPT) Car Wax. Just mist it on, buff it on and off for a quick layer of wax and a nice shine!

If you have any questions about these products or if you would like more information about any part of the process please don't hesitate to ask. Take care!

This may have already been covered, but how do you determine where to start when polishing a "new" car for the first time.

I'm used to working on my car and my wife's Audi, but I want to do my dad's Titan for him. I know Nissan clear is supposed to be softer than german stuff. Do I just start light in a test section and then go more aggressive as necessary? Is it just an experience thing?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by aggieE46

This may have already been covered, but how do you determine where to start when polishing a "new" car for the first time.

I'm used to working on my car and my wife's Audi, but I want to do my dad's Titan for him. I know Nissan clear is supposed to be softer than german stuff. Do I just start light in a test section and then go more aggressive as necessary? Is it just an experience thing?

Thanks!

Good question. If you have a ton of experience you may have a good idea what the vehicle may need upon inspection. However good lighting is often needed like the ones provided with special flashlights (coming soon to DetailedImage.com) for a proper inspection. Additionally if you want to get really exact you would need the DeFelsko PosiTest DFT Paint Thickness Gage. Assuming you are not a professional or if you don't have this equipment then I would just suggest doing what you said. You start with a light polish and use more aggressive ones as need be. I inspect the paint after each combination of pad and polish. If you don't have the special flash lights or bright florescent lights then direct sun is helpful. For virtually any new car you will need a light polish and most times a medium cutting polish is still very helpful to remove the majority of swirls. Unfortunately brand new cars still have plenty of swirls. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

Greg
Whats the best way the get creases out of leather

thanks

Unfortunately there is no easy fix. I generally recommend just cleaning, conditioning and protecting the seats on a regular basis from UV fading. There are some interesting options people have tried to fix the creases but I have yet to hear of any solution that works. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Greg,
I have a small area on the top section (vinyl) of my driver's door that's sticky. It's about 1.5 inches in diameter. I can't see anything on the grey vinyl but I've tried various soaps and stuff to get it off. No-Go! Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mark

Hi how are ya, great thread.

I recently bought a set of Work-vs xx for my M3, ive started to notice that their are a few stains forming on the polished rims, what would be the best thing to get rid of these and bring back the best shine??

Thanks alot. Ive been using a Poorboys wheel sealant on them

Originally Posted by markusmarkus

Greg,
I have a small area on the top section (vinyl) of my driver's door that's sticky. It's about 1.5 inches in diameter. I can't see anything on the grey vinyl but I've tried various soaps and stuff to get it off. No-Go! Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mark

Mark,

My first step would be to use a cleaner like the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover. It helps remove the majority of builds I encounter. If this is really bad a light degreaser could help like the P21S Total Auto Wash. A degreaser should help remove it if you take your time. If that doesn't work and you really want this gone you can try something more aggressive like an adhesive remover (ie 3M) but use it with caution. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by HarryMarkCS

Hi how are ya, great thread.

I recently bought a set of Work-vs xx for my M3, ive started to notice that their are a few stains forming on the polished rims, what would be the best thing to get rid of these and bring back the best shine??

Thanks alot. Ive been using a Poorboys wheel sealant on them

Glad to hear the thread is useful for you, we're happy to help when we can. It's hard t say since we don't know what's causing the stains. If you have any ideas, a description of them or a picture that can help narrow it down. Here are some of my tips though based on those wheels. Make sure you are cleaning those rims with a pH neutral cleaner. If you use something too strong it can cause oxidation, stains, etc. The Chemical Guys Diablo Gel Rim and Wheel Cleaner is one of my favorite cleaners for this job. Also be careful if you clean them in direct sun, you can easily get watermarks on the surface. If you have stains a good metal polish (P21S Finish Restorer or the Optimum (OPT) Metal Polish) will help restore the shine. After you are done a good coat of protection from the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant should be a big help. I hope this info helps!

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage.com

Mark,

My first step would be to use a cleaner like the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover. It helps remove the majority of builds I encounter. If this is really bad a light degreaser could help like the P21S Total Auto Wash. A degreaser should help remove it if you take your time. If that doesn't work and you really want this gone you can try something more aggressive like an adhesive remover (ie 3M) but use it with caution. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

Mike,
Thanks for the information. BTW, I've been polishing the family's cars with the PC buffer and Meguiars products. You should see my wife's "never been waxed" 1994 Honda Accord!! Whow!! Thanks!!!

I own a 2002 M3 Jet Black, and I am about to do a full cut/polish/sealant/wax job on it with pc7424. Before I attempt this I was concidering wet-sanding the entire vehicle with 2500 sand paper very carefully, and hitting some scratches with 2000 grit lightly in an attempt to minimize the appearance of orange peel. I wanted to ask what is generally the thickness of OEM clearcoat on these e46 m3's? (2001-2006)(I also do not own a clearcoat measuring device). Also I purchased a 3m rubber block and wanted to ask if it would be better to use the block on just the really flat surfaces or if it is better still to sand by hand being careful not to leave finger indentations on these flat panels? Also do you use rubber blocks on slightly curved panels similar to the door panels found on my generation of vehicle?

Originally Posted by parad0x

I own a 2002 M3 Jet Black, and I am about to do a full cut/polish/sealant/wax job on it with pc7424. Before I attempt this I was concidering wet-sanding the entire vehicle with 2500 sand paper very carefully, and hitting some scratches with 2000 grit lightly in an attempt to minimize the appearance of orange peel. I wanted to ask what is generally the thickness of OEM clearcoat on these e46 m3's? (2001-2006)(I also do not own a clearcoat measuring device). Also I purchased a 3m rubber block and wanted to ask if it would be better to use the block on just the really flat surfaces or if it is better still to sand by hand being careful not to leave finger indentations on these flat panels? Also do you use rubber blocks on slightly curved panels similar to the door panels found on my generation of vehicle?

You certainly could use the wet sanding on the whole car but I'm not sure it will help enough to make it worth your while. If you are spot treating scratches, etc. yes wet sanding is probably the way to go. Honestly I think you would be much better off investing in a higher speed buffer (i.e. Makita 9227C-X3 Rotary Buffer) and just doing a traditional polish with them. It will give you more cutting power and probably produce a much better overall finish.

If you do want to wet sand the clear coat is plenty thick to withstand the 2500 grit work. I would use the rubber blocks so there is more even distribution of your arm strength. I would use it carefully on curved pieces when possible Again if you do use the wet sanding I would HIGHLY recommend you do the process on a small section of your paint with the wet sanding and polishes. When you are done wipe it down with a 50/50 mix of IPA or Menzerna Top Inspection Spray to ensure there is nothing left on the surface. Then inspect the results carefully. Be sure you like the results before proceeding through the rest of the car. Let me know if you have any questions.

Hi Greg,

My e46 sedan definitely needs some TLC - haven't done more than a brief wax since I got her back in '08. I've been reading this thread and the articles on your page, and figure its roughly the same price to actually buy and own these products (and a rotary buffer) than to get it done by someone else... plus doing it myself ensures its done right, since I'm an anal-retentive perfectionist. Was hoping you could comment on my tentative game plan:

* Step 1: OPT Hypder Compound on on purple pad
* Step 2: Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on orange pads
* Step 3: Menzerna PO106FA on white pads
* Step 4: Menzerna PO85RD on black pads
* Step 5: Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II on black pads
* Step 6: Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (HGSG) - on black pads
Let sit 24 hours
* Step 7: Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax or Blackfire Midnight Sun Carnauba Paste Wax
Let sit 24 hours between coats

Here are some shots of my car - There are some scratches on the driver-side door I'll have to touch-up (which I'll [learn to] do first)... other than that, I got my car back from the body shop back in december and there are quite a few imperfections I'd like to clean up:
PS the white "dots" is just dust/debris from sitting out.

Got my windshield replaced a while back, seems they (or someone else) gouged out the molding:

I just posted this in a separate thread, but I thought Greg or someone at DI might know better:

Just got my car delivered yesterday. Everything was ok (minus some scratching), but found that the previous owner had installed pinstriping down the length of the car.

How do I safely remove it? I thought of using a credit card... would that work?

Also, The metallic trim (not sure if it's actually metal) around the doors has water spots. Will 000 steel wool and some SSR1 work?

Originally Posted by fibonacci00782

Hi Greg,

My e46 sedan definitely needs some TLC - haven't done more than a brief wax since I got her back in '08. I've been reading this thread and the articles on your page, and figure its roughly the same price to actually buy and own these products (and a rotary buffer) than to get it done by someone else... plus doing it myself ensures its done right, since I'm an anal-retentive perfectionist. Was hoping you could comment on my tentative game plan:

* Step 1: OPT Hypder Compound on on purple pad
* Step 2: Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on orange pads
* Step 3: Menzerna PO106FA on white pads
* Step 4: Menzerna PO85RD on black pads
* Step 5: Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze with Acrylic Shine II on black pads
* Step 6: Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (HGSG) - on black pads
Let sit 24 hours
* Step 7: Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax or Blackfire Midnight Sun Carnauba Paste Wax
Let sit 24 hours between coats

Here are some shots of my car - There are some scratches on the driver-side door I'll have to touch-up (which I'll [learn to] do first)... other than that, I got my car back from the body shop back in december and there are quite a few imperfections I'd like to clean up:
PS the white "dots" is just dust/debris from sitting out.

Thank you for the message and I'd be happy to help. I think overall you listed a great routine to restore the paint to like new, if not better. I'm not sure what rotary buffer you have or are planning on using but if you don't already have one I suggest the Makita 9227C-X3 Rotary Buffer. It's one of the easiest and safest to use rotary buffers I have ever heard of or used. If you have never used one make sure you practice first so you are comfortable with the unit. If you need help please check out our detailing guide or let me know.

As for your products and pad combos they were all very good. The only step you missed which I highly recommend doing before polishing is to use a clay bar. It will help deep clean the paint and ensure you get better results with your polishes, sealant, etc. I also am more likely to use the Menzerna Power Gloss instead of the Optimum Hyper Compound but both will work just fine. For the sealant the Klasse HGSG is really strong and glossy but it can be a little bit of a pain to work with. Make sure you apply it very thing and remove the excess product about 15 minutes after application. If you want something a little easier to work with the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my recommendation. It's also very durable and glossy but it's just far easier to work with. As for your wax I personally would recommend the Blackfire Midnight Sun Carnauba Paste Wax out of those two options. I would also suggest considering the Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard wax. Upon completion the paint should look insanely glossy while thoroughly protected. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI

Originally Posted by mrbcc

I just posted this in a separate thread, but I thought Greg or someone at DI might know better:

Just got my car delivered yesterday. Everything was ok (minus some scratching), but found that the previous owner had installed pinstriping down the length of the car.

How do I safely remove it? I thought of using a credit card... would that work?

Also, The metallic trim (not sure if it's actually metal) around the doors has water spots. Will 000 steel wool and some SSR1 work?

If you use a blow dryer you can usually loosen the adhesive holding it on there and start pulling up a corner with your finger. I would not recommend using a CC on your paint. Continue to use the blow dryer and pull it up until you are done. Upon completion I would clay the area or use the 3M Adhesive Remover to remove any remaining residue. Finally I polish the area so you can no longer see any differences between the paint protected by the pin stripe. If you need a polish recommendation please let me know.

Unfortunately for the trim there may not be a good fix for them. BMW trim is notorious for problems that can not be readily fixed. I would start with a metal polish (Optimum (OPT) Metal Polish), chemical polish (P21S Paintwork Cleanser) or an AIO type product (Klasse All In One (AIO)). These products have chemical cleaning agents that can help remove those marks if they are very light. Next you could try a light cutting polish like the SSR 1, Menzerna PO106FA, etc. but if that doesn't work I'd probably suggest stopping there. The problem unfortunately is probably too far gone and may need to be replaced. You can try more aggressive polishes but do it at your own risk of making the surface look hazy or removing too much material. I would not use the steel wool in this instance.

If you have any other questions please let me know.

Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage.com

If you use a blow dryer you can usually loosen the adhesive holding it on there and start pulling up a corner with your finger. I would not recommend using a CC on your paint. Continue to use the blow dryer and pull it up until you are done. Upon completion I would clay the area or use the 3M Adhesive Remover to remove any remaining residue. Finally I polish the area so you can no longer see any differences between the paint protected by the pin stripe. If you need a polish recommendation please let me know.

Unfortunately for the trim there may not be a good fix for them. BMW trim is notorious for problems that can not be readily fixed. I would start with a metal polish (Optimum (OPT) Metal Polish), chemical polish (P21S Paintwork Cleanser) or an AIO type product (Klasse All In One (AIO)). These products have chemical cleaning agents that can help remove those marks if they are very light. Next you could try a light cutting polish like the SSR 1, Menzerna PO106FA, etc. but if that doesn't work I'd probably suggest stopping there. The problem unfortunately is probably too far gone and may need to be replaced. You can try more aggressive polishes but do it at your own risk of making the surface look hazy or removing too much material. I would not use the steel wool in this instance.

If you have any other questions please let me know.

Thanks, Greg. I'm about to get your SSR 2.5 for a few clear coat scratches on the hood. Will that work for paint under the pin striping?

I was planning on using a clay bar on the whole car (the paint isn't smooth), followed by spot polishing with the SSR 2.5 on the clear coat scratches, then going with the Klasse AIO for the whole car, followed by a caranuba wax to finish up. not sure which pads to use for what, but I did order several colors from heavy to light.