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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:52 PM   #3001
Lonely Tylenol.
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have a 2009 ninja no scratches or swirls ... best way to clean and detail
?
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:58 PM   #3002
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Thanks, Greg. I'm about to get your SSR 2.5 for a few clear coat scratches on the hood. Will that work for paint under the pin striping?

I was planning on using a clay bar on the whole car (the paint isn't smooth), followed by spot polishing with the SSR 2.5 on the clear coat scratches, then going with the Klasse AIO for the whole car, followed by a caranuba wax to finish up. not sure which pads to use for what, but I did order several colors from heavy to light.

The clay bar is a great option that I always recommend using before polishing. The SSR 2.5 is a good medium cutting polish however I would highly recommend the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83 or the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105. These polishes are more likely to get you better results. Additionally all three options are most likely followed up with a lighter polish and pad combo for best results.

If you prefer a one step polish that can still help you out try the Menzerna Power Finish PO203S. It's slightly less aggressive than the Menzerna PO83 or the SSR 2.5 and would be a better selection in my opinion. After that the Klasse AIO and a white pad would be great. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Old 05-27-2010, 03:30 PM   #3003
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Originally Posted by Lonely Tylenol. View Post
have a 2009 ninja no scratches or swirls ... best way to clean and detail
?
In short you can treat almost just like a car. They share many of the same exact materials which are treated the same way. The only major difference is you don't want to use a degreaser near the chains. Therefore soap and water and a quality sealant on the painted parts should be great. If you'd like a recommendation for any area let me know. I also suggest checking out the E-Z Detail Brushes which are very popular on bikes:

DI Accessories E-Z Detail Brush



Full Size Price $21.99
Mini Size Price $14.99
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:42 AM   #3004
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I just got some panels repainted on my car to repair scratches/chips. How soon should I wait to wash/clay/wax it, etc? It's already covered in pollen, and someone told me I shouldn't wash it for about a half month, I've never heard of this, but it made me nervous about even rinsing the car off with water. Any advice?
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Old 05-28-2010, 09:17 AM   #3005
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I just got some panels repainted on my car to repair scratches/chips. How soon should I wait to wash/clay/wax it, etc? It's already covered in pollen, and someone told me I shouldn't wash it for about a half month, I've never heard of this, but it made me nervous about even rinsing the car off with water. Any advice?
Assuming your paint was not baked dry, which is mainly reserved for brand new cars and complete re-builds here is what I recommend. After a couple of days you can wash, clay, polish and even glaze the paint. However you want to wait 30 - 90 days (ask body shop for a more specific time frame) before you apply any protection. So avoid any product that has wax or any kind of sealant in it. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Old 05-28-2010, 09:31 AM   #3006
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So it would be safe for me to at least rinse all the pollen off then, correct? Thank you for your help, I appreciate it.

EDIT: The reason I want to know about rinsing it is because my car club is having a get together tomorrow, we'll probably take a club photo. My car doesn't need to be 100% perfect, but I'd prefer if I could at least make it look halfway presentable.
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:07 AM   #3007
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So it would be safe for me to at least rinse all the pollen off then, correct? Thank you for your help, I appreciate it.

EDIT: The reason I want to know about rinsing it is because my car club is having a get together tomorrow, we'll probably take a club photo. My car doesn't need to be 100% perfect, but I'd prefer if I could at least make it look halfway presentable.
As long as it's been a couple days since it's been painted yes a wash should be fine. Take care!
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:30 AM   #3008
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So I've got several clear coat scratches on my paint (on the bonnet, roof and the boot) that I've been trying to remove with my PC 7424 XP, yellow pad, and Meguiar's M10532 Ultra Cut Compound. I'm using setting 4 to 5 and have done several times over with very limited results. The scratches are still there, most I can't feel with my fingernail, but some are barely catching. Regardless, I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere other than a nice general polish. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to wet sand or something??

My process:
Wash, remove wax
Clay bar area
Meguiar's Ultracut polish with yellow pad
Klasse AIO with orange pad
Meguiar's Caranuba Wax (2 coats)

However, the scratches (even the ones I can barely see) arn't coming off on the ultracut stage.

Please advise. thanks.
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:41 AM   #3009
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Hi

I have an engine bay question. I have an M3 and the engine compartment is very clean. The painted areas are relatively flat, i.e. no clearcoat on them. I have cleaned the areas that I can easily touch. However, there is a light haze over other areas. These can be seen by a judge but not wiped by me. I would rather not disassemble the engine bay to wipe these areas down. There has to be an easier way. Is there a spray that would clean the haze off that I would then rinse off using distilled water? Again, I don't think I need a degreaser. This engine bay is extremely clean and I don't want to leave a residue to attract more dirt. I have never used an engine bay 'dressing' as I don't like the look.

Thanks
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:50 AM   #3010
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Originally Posted by mrbcc View Post
So I've got several clear coat scratches on my paint (on the bonnet, roof and the boot) that I've been trying to remove with my PC 7424 XP, yellow pad, and Meguiar's M10532 Ultra Cut Compound. I'm using setting 4 to 5 and have done several times over with very limited results. The scratches are still there, most I can't feel with my fingernail, but some are barely catching. Regardless, I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere other than a nice general polish. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to wet sand or something??

My process:
Wash, remove wax
Clay bar area
Meguiar's Ultracut polish with yellow pad
Klasse AIO with orange pad
Meguiar's Caranuba Wax (2 coats)

However, the scratches (even the ones I can barely see) arn't coming off on the ultracut stage.

Please advise. thanks.
A yellow pad and the M105 is an aggressive combination that will basically max out the PC's potential. The only thing you may be able to do to further help is up the speed to 6, make sure you are moving very slow with overlapping passes and apply light to medium pressure to the back of the buffer. The pressure o the back of the buffer is critical! Assuming you have tried this there is really not much more you can do with the PC. It's only really designed to remove light swirls and ultra fine scratches. Even if you can't catch your finger nail on the scratch it still may be a bit deeper than you expect. Using a more powerful buffer like the Flex XC 3401 VRG or a rotary like the DI Packages Makita 9227C-X3 Starter Kit. I would probably try one of these buffers first before wet sanding.

Additionally if you are applying the M105 with a yellow pad you should definitely be following up with the M205 and a lighter pad (orange, cyan, green, white or tangerine depending on the results) to remove any haze on the surface. Then I would lastly apply the AIO with a white pad or softer pad. Going right from the yellow pad and M105 to the AIO is likely going to leave some haze on the surface.
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Old 06-10-2010, 12:01 PM   #3011
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Originally Posted by mousemaster View Post
Hi

I have an engine bay question. I have an M3 and the engine compartment is very clean. The painted areas are relatively flat, i.e. no clearcoat on them. I have cleaned the areas that I can easily touch. However, there is a light haze over other areas. These can be seen by a judge but not wiped by me. I would rather not disassemble the engine bay to wipe these areas down. There has to be an easier way. Is there a spray that would clean the haze off that I would then rinse off using distilled water? Again, I don't think I need a degreaser. This engine bay is extremely clean and I don't want to leave a residue to attract more dirt. I have never used an engine bay 'dressing' as I don't like the look.

Thanks
Mousemaster
Interesting situation, i'm not sure exactly what you mean by a haze on the surface. Are you referring to dirt, dust, etc.? Using a quality degreaser will very simply help clean the surface and it won't attract any more dust, dirt, etc. A very gentle degreaser like the P21S Total Auto Wash is a perfect choice for you. It's safe to spray on virtually any part of the engine bay (avoid any exposed moving belts, etc. which I don't think any newer M3 has). For protection and a relatively matte finish use the 303 Aerospace Protectant or the Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium. Both provide UV protection and a great appearance that is not glossy or oily.

One other product I wanted to mention to you is the DI Accessories E-Z Detail Brush. This is the full size and there is also a mini size which may help you do a quick cleaning in the engine bay.




If you read our engine detailing section of our detailing guide you'll get all the info for a complete detail. It usually only takes me about 20 - 30 minutes to do a pretty thorough engine detail as long as it's not filthy. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:19 PM   #3012
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Can the same results be seen using aggressive cutting compounds with PC for plastic pieces such as headlight plastic lenses, as opposed to using plastic polish compound?

and the second question being, what are the main differences in compound for plastic cutting compounds (such as meguiars plastx) and just normal cutting clear-coat cutting compounds?
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Old 06-12-2010, 08:34 AM   #3013
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To be honest I'm not completely sure of the exact molecular differences between traditional polishes for the clear coat/paint versus plastics. Most mfgs are tight with their exact formulations. The polishes you use on the paint are the same polishes I use on the headlights. The Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish works well on some ultra light imperfections. However if you want a more complete restoration I really like using a combination of polishes like the Menzerna PO83 and PO106FA with a buffer. If you need even more severe restoration a little wet sanding is helpful. Check out this headlight restoration article for more details.
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:19 AM   #3014
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Leather Dye

I just purchased a 2000 Steel Blue 323i and the exterior is in amazing condition but the interior color has rubbed off of the leather. Is there a product out there that will allow me to dye the leather? Is it something I can do or should I consult a professional?
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:21 PM   #3015
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I just purchased a 2000 Steel Blue 323i and the exterior is in amazing condition but the interior color has rubbed off of the leather. Is there a product out there that will allow me to dye the leather? Is it something I can do or should I consult a professional?
No easy solution but you can re-dye the surface if your up to the task. I recommend contacting the experts at leatherique.com and maybe also getting a quote from a local shop. Only other alternative is looking for a replacement seat. Hopefully one of those options will be worth it to you.

Take care!
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Old 06-15-2010, 06:23 AM   #3016
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I got some old items I bought in 2005, are they still good to use?

poorboys 2.5, 1, ex-p
P21s car wash
303 fabric guard and aerospace protectant
Lexol leather cleaner/conditioner

thanks for having this convenient thread and maintaining it for so long
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Old 06-15-2010, 04:53 PM   #3017
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Originally Posted by WhIte///D3MON View Post
I got some old items I bought in 2005, are they still good to use?

poorboys 2.5, 1, ex-p
P21s car wash
303 fabric guard and aerospace protectant
Lexol leather cleaner/conditioner

thanks for having this convenient thread and maintaining it for so long
It depends on the situation. Generally the products last at least 4 - 5 years in peak condition. It can be shortened if they are exposed to extreme heat or cold. If unsure shake them thoroughly and test in the least visible area.
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:14 AM   #3018
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303 Aerospace

I''ve searched to no avail....does the 303 Aerospace actually clean, or is it just to be used as a protectant? I know there is a 303 cleaner, but trying to save where I can. Thanks for all your help!
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:22 PM   #3019
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I''ve searched to no avail....does the 303 Aerospace actually clean, or is it just to be used as a protectant? I know there is a 303 cleaner, but trying to save where I can. Thanks for all your help!
It's not really a cleaner but if you apply it to the dashboard with a microfiber towel the towel will naturally clean the surface removing loose dust and dirt. Another option you many want to consider is the Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium which cleans and protects in one step. It leaves a very matte finish and looks outstanding. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:52 AM   #3020
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It's not really a cleaner but if you apply it to the dashboard with a microfiber towel the towel will naturally clean the surface removing loose dust and dirt. Another option you many want to consider is the Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium which cleans and protects in one step. It leaves a very matte finish and looks outstanding. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks Greg; went ahead and ordered 303 Aero for now along with the amazing deal on Leatherique you had today. Thanks for all your advice and sales!
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