E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Car Care & Detailing

Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 57 votes, 5.00 average.
Old 11-14-2010, 08:23 AM   #3061
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speeder View Post
Greg,

I purchased a few Menzerna product from you guys about 3 years ago and have used them with great success...

Here is what I have used:
  • Porter Cable (7424) Polisher
  • Menzerna Intensive Polish <-> Orange cutting pad
  • Menzerna Final Polish <-> White polishing pad
  • Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze <-> Black finishing pad
  • Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield <-> Blue fine finishing pad

Well, I recently tried to detail my car (which, I'm ashamed to say, I haven't done in a while) and noticed that the Menzerna Intensive Polish (with the orange cutting pad) is not removing swirl marks as expected...

I am wondering whether those products are less effective now that they are older? ... OR.... do you anticipate the results to be the same despite the passing of time???

If the latter is true, which Menzerna product would you recommend as a more aggressive medium to removing swirls, which I can then follow up with the additional products I mentioned above???

Thanks in advance!
You used the correct order of products and pad combination. The products you have should work perfect for about 3 - 5 yrs. After that time they can slowly start to loose their effectiveness, but the changes are usually minimal and take a long time to become noticeable.

Sorry to hear the results were not what you expected. Another thing you may want to consider is getting a new orange pad, if the one you have is not in great condition. Having a clean and fresh pad is critical for optimal performance. As for a new polish Menzerna has since refined the Intensive Polish (IP) and they have created the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83. It's an outstanding polish that gives you great cutting power but it will finish down even better than the IP and it dusts less. Using this polish with a fresh orange pad should produce some impressive results.

One other note is that the Acrylic Shield is a great spray on form of protection, however it's not as durable as some other sealants. Generally sealants in the spray on form sacrifice some durability compared to the traditional liquid ones. If you upgrade to the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger you'll notice a huge improvement in the durability of the protection. This product look outstanding on all colors and is easy to apply (blue pad). Again I highly recommend adding this sealant to your routine. If desired you can layer the Acrylic Shield on top of it for even more protection and shine.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 03:45 PM   #3062
Speeder
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 849
My Ride: '04 325i - '08 C300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage.com View Post
You used the correct order of products and pad combination. The products you have should work perfect for about 3 - 5 yrs. After that time they can slowly start to loose their effectiveness, but the changes are usually minimal and take a long time to become noticeable.

Sorry to hear the results were not what you expected. Another thing you may want to consider is getting a new orange pad, if the one you have is not in great condition. Having a clean and fresh pad is critical for optimal performance. As for a new polish Menzerna has since refined the Intensive Polish (IP) and they have created the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83. It's an outstanding polish that gives you great cutting power but it will finish down even better than the IP and it dusts less. Using this polish with a fresh orange pad should produce some impressive results.

One other note is that the Acrylic Shield is a great spray on form of protection, however it's not as durable as some other sealants. Generally sealants in the spray on form sacrifice some durability compared to the traditional liquid ones. If you upgrade to the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger you'll notice a huge improvement in the durability of the protection. This product look outstanding on all colors and is easy to apply (blue pad). Again I highly recommend adding this sealant to your routine. If desired you can layer the Acrylic Shield on top of it for even more protection and shine.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg
As always, your prompt and informative replies are greatly appreciated...

Thanks again
Speeder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 05:20 PM   #3063
HyeWarrior
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Dimas, CA
Posts: 2,848
My Ride: '03 325i --> '13 GTI
I know you're probably bored to death by some of the repeat questions I'm about to ask, but I don't have the will power to go through 5 years of advice

Anyways:
  • My car has some swirl marks, they're not terrible, but they still bug me. Until I invest in a Porter Cable and some of the better name products you listed, would I see any results from hand polishing with a foam applicator pad with generic items? Reason I ask is because I have used a bunch of other cheapish products (Turtle Wax Polish, Meguiar's TechWax, etc). Whats the proper technique to even try to see any results with these things? I tried hand polishing with the foam pad and saw nothing to get excited over. Should I not even bother until I buy a Porter Cable and some of the products listed?
  • I've seen a foam wash in a lot of your threads, is there a special hose attachment used? It seems interesting to just spray the car and let the foam do the work.
  • I've heard Sonax Wheel cleaner is great for removing brake dust (mine makes a lot of it), would it be harmful to use it weekly when I wash the car?
  • Do you know of a good polish to remove scratches on headlights, and whats the proper method to apply it? I've read about Meguiar's PlatiX but I'm not sure if that stuff really works.
  • And finally, for interior leather care, I want to try and restore my seats to that factory, baby smooth leather. I don't have cracks or tears or anything, it just feels oily and as if it has a weird coat on it. I'm paranoid that I might mess it up even more, is there a DIY for this process, or should I have a pro do it instead?


Thanks
__________________

Wow
So Amaze
Much Torque Steer
Such FWDoge
HyeWarrior is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2010, 01:36 PM   #3064
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speeder View Post
As always, your prompt and informative replies are greatly appreciated...

Thanks again
Glad to help as always.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
I know you're probably bored to death by some of the repeat questions I'm about to ask, but I don't have the will power to go through 5 years of advice

Anyways:
  • My car has some swirl marks, they're not terrible, but they still bug me. Until I invest in a Porter Cable and some of the better name products you listed, would I see any results from hand polishing with a foam applicator pad with generic items? Reason I ask is because I have used a bunch of other cheapish products (Turtle Wax Polish, Meguiar's TechWax, etc). Whats the proper technique to even try to see any results with these things? I tried hand polishing with the foam pad and saw nothing to get excited over. Should I not even bother until I buy a Porter Cable and some of the products listed?
  • I've seen a foam wash in a lot of your threads, is there a special hose attachment used? It seems interesting to just spray the car and let the foam do the work.
  • I've heard Sonax Wheel cleaner is great for removing brake dust (mine makes a lot of it), would it be harmful to use it weekly when I wash the car?
  • Do you know of a good polish to remove scratches on headlights, and whats the proper method to apply it? I've read about Meguiar's PlatiX but I'm not sure if that stuff really works.
  • And finally, for interior leather care, I want to try and restore my seats to that factory, baby smooth leather. I don't have cracks or tears or anything, it just feels oily and as if it has a weird coat on it. I'm paranoid that I might mess it up even more, is there a DIY for this process, or should I have a pro do it instead?

Thanks
Glad to help out here as well.

The answer is yes and no. If you take your time, apply at least medium pressure and get a decent polish you will notice an improvement. However this takes a lot of time and energy which requires some serious arm strength. If you don't have enough energy or use a really low quality polish it's going to be tough to get noticeable results, even though it will still most likely help. If money is tight the best deal we have on a PC, backing plate, Meguiar's M105 and M205, plus a pad for each polish is the DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit. This is what I'd recommend saving up for. Additionally we are offering free shipping on orders over $150 this month. There is a 20% off coupon (early10) as well, but it doesn't apply to packages, sale items and tools.

If you want to spray foam on your car just put your favorite shampoo in the Gilmour Foamaster II Foam Gun. No other requirements are needed. Again you can get 20% off this item with the coupon code Early10 through 11/18.

You can use essentially any wheel cleaner on a regular basis that is not acidic and it should be fine. That cleaner should be safe to use, just make sure the brakes are not warm at all.

The PlastX will work, however you can save money and use the same polishes you use on your paint (i.e. M105 and M205 as listed above).

Assuming the seats were not dyed you should be able to use a cleaner on them. They could feel slick from a low quality leather care product, over spray from another product like a dash cleaner. Restore the leather with the Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil. It's the best combo I've ever used at restoring seats to like new in my opinion. Best of all it has no fillers so the seats feel very natural when you are done. If you want to spend less or don't have the time for two steps the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff is also a quality option.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2010, 07:16 PM   #3065
sharpx
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 542
My Ride: E60
What are the top durable waxes - Collinite 476s, FK 1000P, E1 Glanz Wax, or others?

Note: I'm asking about waxes... not sealants.
sharpx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2010, 07:22 PM   #3066
sharpx
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 542
My Ride: E60
BTW Greg @ DI

I was surprised that DI didn't carry RejeX. Maybe someday?
sharpx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 10:06 AM   #3067
downwithbrown7
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fayetteville N.C.
Posts: 500
My Ride: BMW M3 Droptop
Ive got some rims that were painted white. How would I go about getting all the paint off? should i chemically remove it or sand it all off?
__________________
downwithbrown7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 01:38 PM   #3068
|sland|2oots
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,027
My Ride: ///M3
Greg,

When layering coats of sealant, should u remove the old coat of sealant before applying a new one? Do u recommend doing by buffer or by hand?? Thanks!
__________________
|sland|2oots is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 06:18 PM   #3069
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpx View Post
What are the top durable waxes - Collinite 476s, FK 1000P, E1 Glanz Wax, or others?

Note: I'm asking about waxes... not sealants.

The Collinite one is probably the most durable. I'll keep the Rejex suggestion in mind as we continue to grow.

Greg @ DI

Last edited by Greg@DetailedImage.com; 11-16-2010 at 06:24 PM.
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 06:25 PM   #3070
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by downwithbrown7 View Post
Ive got some rims that were painted white. How would I go about getting all the paint off? should i chemically remove it or sand it all off?
Not my area of expertise, I'd suggest contacting a wheel shop.

Greg @ DI
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 06:48 PM   #3071
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by |sland|2oots View Post
Greg,

When layering coats of sealant, should u remove the old coat of sealant before applying a new one? Do u recommend doing by buffer or by hand?? Thanks!
It depends. If it has been several weeks or months you may want to remove the old product first with 50/50 IPA (Rubbing Alcohol) or wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash. If it has been days or just 1 - 3 weeks you could just apply another layer of sealant or wax.

Hand applications and buffer applications of sealants and liquid waxes are pretty equal. I feel a buffer provides a very uniform and thin coating as I like it. Hand applications require more energy but you can get in to corners, under spoilers, etc. a little bit better. A polish needs lots of pressure so a buffer is critical where as with sealants and waxes just need to be spread thin and even. I typically use the buffer but there are no huge advantages to either method as both can be effective.

If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 05:16 PM   #3072
Washburn
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 311
My Ride: 2005 AW 330Ci ZHP
Greg,
Which wheel cleaners are considered "safe" for my OEM style 135 ZHP wheels? I know that most wheel cleaners can be too harsh on the finish.
What are some examples of spray-type cleaners that are safe and easy to use, but still remove brake dust?
Thanks IA.
__________________
2005 Alpine White 330Ci with ZHP
Washburn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2010, 07:28 PM   #3073
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by Washburn View Post
Greg,
Which wheel cleaners are considered "safe" for my OEM style 135 ZHP wheels? I know that most wheel cleaners can be too harsh on the finish.
What are some examples of spray-type cleaners that are safe and easy to use, but still remove brake dust?
Thanks IA.

My two favorites that are completely safe on all wheel finishes are the P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner and Chemical Guys Diablo Gel Rim and Wheel Cleaner. Both work great and are very gentle. The Diablo is the better value in my opinion as I dilute it 3:1 (water:cleaner). You can go up to 6:1 but the 3:1 ratio is my preference for value and performance. Let me know if you have any other questions I'd be happy to help!
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2010, 10:13 PM   #3074
95seriesbmw
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Hickory, NC
Posts: 89
My Ride: BMW X5, BMW M3
Greg i have concerns about learning how to buff my own car poperly and and just as much concern about letting anyone else take a buffer to it. I would however like to see it cleaned up and protected properly for once. Do you have any friends in the business you would recommend in the North Carolina area?
__________________
95seriesbmw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2010, 09:31 AM   #3075
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95seriesbmw View Post
Greg i have concerns about learning how to buff my own car poperly and and just as much concern about letting anyone else take a buffer to it. I would however like to see it cleaned up and protected properly for once. Do you have any friends in the business you would recommend in the North Carolina area?
I understand your concerns with doing it yourself and having someone else do the work. Unfortunately I don't have a great recommendation for you in that area. It's rare to find someone who love your car as much as you do and if you do it's probably going to cost you. I think you would be amazed at how easy it is to do yourself with just a little bit of knowledge and the right combination of products. Additionally it's a lot cheaper in the long run to maintain it yourself and again no one is going to love your car more than you. Using a buffer like Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer is very easy and completely safe. We kiddingly tell people that you have to throw it at the car to harm it. It can't burn the paint and a first time user can get great results with it. I've also helped countless people in your position get the results they were looking for the first time. We also have a detailing guide that can take you step by step through the entire process. We also have several of the best professional detailers in the USA posting helpful articles in our Ask a Pro Blog section to help. Take some time to check out those sections and you should feel a lot better about trying it yourself.

In short I recommend a full detail 1 - 2 times per year and in between you can wash and protect it as desired. A full detail is a wash, dry, clay bar, polish, sealant and wax (optional). I've posted these recommendations before but here are the best deals we have on some very high quality products that will give you just about everything you need for years of detailing your paint.

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I was not sure if you were considering getting a buffer or if you were just saying you won't be using one. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.

After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2010, 07:18 PM   #3076
eneka
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,967
My Ride: 2003 325i
This might be a stupid question, but is this a safe way for removing a dent?
__________________
eneka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2010, 10:15 AM   #3077
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by eneka View Post
This might be a stupid question, but is this a safe way for removing a dent?
Great question, I honestly don't know. I've actually never seen that method used before but I guess it makes sense why it works. If I find something out about it I'll let you know.
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 12:55 PM   #3078
manchego
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 10
My Ride: '01 330Ci
Chemical Guys and DI Ultimate List

Hey Greg,

Believe it or not, I've read about 100 pages of this thread over the last few days and finally am ready to ask my own question!

I'm going to post a laundry list of things that I've bought (or will soon buy), and I'll use the order listed in the Detailing Guide to organize them. I'd like your advice on anything I am missing/redundancy/"you don't need that many."

Pre Wash
  • 2 Work Buckets
  • 2 Grit Guards
  • 6 LC Grout Sponges
Might seem like a bunch of gout sponges, but I plan on using them on the wheels and rims. They'll be my main wash media.


Wash
  • Chemical Guys Bug Bugger & Tar Remover
  • Chemical Guys Citrus Citrus Wash & Gloss
  • Chemical Guys Hose Free ECOwash
  • DI Microfiber Starter Kit
  • Chemical Guys Microfiber Cleaning Detergent
I threw the ECOwash in there for winter washes or when I don't have access to a hose.


Clay
  • DI Accessories Gentle Fine Grade Clay
  • Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer
Specifically chose the QD instead of the Chemical Guys Luber, since Di said it could also be used as a quality clay luber.


Polish
  • Chemical Guys No. 700
  • Chemical Guys No. 721
  • Chemical Guys No. 778
  • 3 Lake Country Yellow Pads 6.5
  • 3 Lake Country Orange Pads 6.5
  • 3 Lake Country White Pads 6.5
  • 3 Lake Country Black Pads 6.5
  • Chemical Guys Foam & Wool Pad Cleaner
  • Chemical Guys Pad Conditioner
  • Flex XC3401VRG Buffer with Bag
The lower the number, the more harsh the polish. I bought all three just in case. Am I missing any critical pads? Do I need blue pads? How reliable is it to use smaller pads with the Flex? What's your opinion of the Chemical Guys polishes?


Glaze
  • Chemical Guys Extreme EZ-Creme Glaze
I would use the black pads to apply it.


Sealant
  • Chemical Guys JetSeal 109
It includes some red applicator pads, which I assume can't be used with the Flex. What pad should I apply the sealant with?


Wax
  • Chemical Guys 5050 Wax
  • 2 DI Microfiber reTHICKulous Towel
Plan on using the reTHICKulous towels to clean up excess sealant and wax. How should I apply it?


Tires & Wheels, Interior Trim, Exterior Trim, Engine Bay, Windows
  • Chemical Guys Extreme V.R.T Dress All
  • Chemical Guys Black on Black
  • Chemical Guys Grim Reaper A.P.C.
  • Chemical Guys Window Cleaner
  • 2 DI Microfiber Glass Polishing Towel
Probably the section I have the most questions about. I know the 303 products are popular in this section, but I was ordering through Chemical Guys. Is their V.R.T. Dress All a good stand-in in terms of a protectant? Are CG Black on Black and V.R.T. redundant items? I'm ignoring the fabrics in my vehicle and could you give me your opinions on Chemical Guys products for fabric care and protection?


Leather
  • Leatherique Pristine Clean
  • Leatherique Rejuvinator

Thank you very much for your time in this thread, Greg. Will continue to support DI as much as my wallet allows me.
manchego is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2010, 04:57 PM   #3079
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,296
My Ride: is clean & protected
First and foremost thank you for your purchase at www.DetailedImage.com. I know I say it a lot but I truly appreciate each and everyone of you guys and your support of our business. I can't believe you read so much of this thread, that's really impressive. Don't forget to check out our Ask a Pro Blog on top of the Detailed Image detailing guide you already referenced. Thank you for listing out all the products in detail that definitely helps me formulate a response. I'll try to answer all of your questions but let me know if I miss any.

I honestly don't see anything missing that is critical or a redundancy that is a problem or completely wasteful.

You have all the pads you need for a good polishing job with the polishes you referenced. I would get the blue pad for the polishes if you pick up the Menzerna PO85RD Polish or another extremely fine polish. This combo would be used for jeweling the paint. I generally only recommend that show cars or if you want extreme perfection. Honestly most companies don't even make such a polish and the difference is small so with what you have don't bother. I'm not sure if I completely understand your question with the reliability of smaller pads and the Flex. If you use a smaller pad it should work fine and the results are definitely reliable if that is what you are referring to. Since you have the 6.5" pads I'd definitely use them and see what you think before getting a new size. I love the Chemical Guys products and the polishes are solid. I do think the Meguiar's M105 and M205 or the Menzerna SIP and PO106FA combos are better though, which would provide a noticeable upgrade.

For the E-Z Creme the black pad is my choice. For the Jetseal 109 you can apply it by hand or with a buffer. The blue pad is my choice for applying this sealant if you want to use the buffer. No huge advantage or disadvantage to using the buffer or a hand application with sealants or liquid waxes. As for the 50/50 apply this by hand with a foam app. Apply a nice thin coating in a circular motion, wait 10+ minutes before buffing off the excess product.

The VRT and Black on Black are different products. I prefer to use the VRT as a dressing on trim, engine bay and sometimes ties. The Black on Black (aka Fade 2 Black) is what I prefer to use on the wheel wells to make them look black again. My favorite tire dressing is the Poorboy's World Bold n Bright if interested.

The Chemical Guys Fabric Clean is a quality interior cleaner. I prefer the 303 Aerospace Protectant or the Optimum (OPT) Protectant Plus for UV protection on vinyl, plastic, rubber and leather. To protect fabrics I HIGHLY recommend the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard.

If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask. Take care!
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2010, 09:10 PM   #3080
bigjae1976
Registered User
 
bigjae1976's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 11,500
My Ride: A car
Send a message via MSN to bigjae1976
If I spray bare bones on my undercarriage...how long will it last? do I need to respray if it rains or the undercarriage gets wet?
bigjae1976 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use