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Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

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Old 05-25-2011, 03:33 PM   #3141
Speeder
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Originally Posted by BimmerDoc View Post
If I could only find a place like this on the East Coast
http://www.gcairbrush.com/
Nice color match they got in this "after" picture:


This is "before":

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Old 05-25-2011, 08:26 PM   #3142
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Originally Posted by Speeder View Post
I prefer to apply the product to the pad, put the pad up to the panel, hold it to keep it from rotating, spread the product on the area (as if I'm marking the area I am polishing during that run), then start the machine while the pad is in full contact with the surface.
If I might add something...
The Porter Cable only goes up to speed 6, and using it full tilt is fine. It is safe to use, and you'll get better results. As for pressure, mark your backing plate with a permanent marker. Use enough pressure to where you see that mark stop rotating, then back off a little. As mentioned earlier, prime the pad with polish by hand first, then add 3 or 4 pea size dots of polish to the pad. After that, continue with how you were spreading the polish and starting the machine.

This is just a basic guideline, as you get comfortable you will adjust your techniques re: amount of polish, pressure used, polisher speed, speed of arm movement, etc. Good luck!
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Old 05-26-2011, 04:10 PM   #3143
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Originally Posted by ///Mayhem View Post
Greg,

I'm looking to add a "compound" to my arsenal. This weekend I corrected my sisters Lexus after my dog scratched the door. It was deep, but not enough for my fingernail to catch. I used PC with Menzerna Intensive Polish on a yellow pad then followed up with Final Polish II on white pad. After a lot of effort and time most of the gouge was gone but some remained.

This is where i think a compound would of helped and fully eliminated the gouge. Am I correct, What would you recommended? Was thinking about Menz Power Gloss on a purple pad or Meg 105 since it seems to be getting lots of love these days.....

While i'm asking, will the Menz Finishing Touch Glaze add anything or is basically the same as my older FPII? My line up would be Wash/Clay/PowerGloss/IP/FPII/FTG/Sealant/Wax

Thanks for your help!!!
I have no idea how I got so far behind here but I do apologize. I'll try to get to each of your questions now.

The M105 and a purple foamed wool pad would probably be the next step in the process. However since the previous steps you listed didn't work I'm not sure this will be the answer. If not you may need to do a light wet sanding with 2500-1500 grit sand paper followed by these polishes. Otherwise your process was correct.

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Old 05-26-2011, 04:11 PM   #3144
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Originally Posted by rover220 View Post
Thanks for the response Greg. The Power Lock Polymer is available here, so will look into that. In regards to the Super Finish you mentioned it says it should be applied by machine, not by hand. Could I apply it by hand, or should I use something else?

TIA
You'll get much better results with a quality buffer and pad, but hand applications will be helpful as well.

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Old 05-26-2011, 04:13 PM   #3145
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Originally Posted by chris3090 View Post
i have a bunch of swirl marks that i wanna get rid of and i want to wax my car complty whats the best product for swirl marks and little scrathes also best wax
I get this question a lot so I'm going to recommend my usual favorites here. Thank you for the inquiry I'd be happy to help. Usually I recommend a full detail at least 1 - 2 times per year and then just wash and protect it as desired in between. A full detail to me consists of a wash, dry, clay bar, polish, sealant and/or wax. This process will deep clean the paint and make it really shine again while protecting it for months to come.

Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.

Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. I highly recommend you consider getting a Porter Cable (PC) as they are so easy to use, vastly improve your results while saving you time and energy. We have some affordable kits that give you the PC, backing plate, pads and polishes you would need here DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Starter Kit or DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. Both kits give you the M105 and M205 polishes with the PC that are going to help you really restore the paint to like new. Best of all the PC is easy to use and completely safe even for a first time user. Again check out our detailing guide for step by step instructions and other helpful hints.

If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.

After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant. It provides a remarkable shine with durable protection while easy to apply. You can apply it by hand or use a blue pad and your buffer. If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.

I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.

Now step back and admire how awesome your vehicle looks. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Take care!
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Old 05-26-2011, 04:17 PM   #3146
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Originally Posted by BimmerDoc View Post
How does a professional remove deep scratches? Is there a way to airbrush and polish rock chips and deep scratches? How much would this cost? And would a detailer do it?

If I could only find a place like this on the East Coast
http://www.gcairbrush.com/

Also Is there a way to refurbish the ///M emblems because they fade fast, and are costly from the dealer.
Generally a touch up kit is needed like the langka system or Dr. Colorchip. In short you just apply paint, sand, polish and repeat a few times for best results. It's very time consuming and the whole car will need to be polished afterward. So it can be done but some practice is very helpful and seeking out a professional is not a bad choice either.

As for the M emblem I would use a polish like the Klasse AIO on it. It will help clean it and remove oxidation, while also protecting it.

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Old 05-26-2011, 04:40 PM   #3147
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Originally Posted by That_Guy View Post
Hey guys, bought a Porter Cable along with orange LC pads and Poor Boys SSW 2 from your recently and made an attempt to polish my car today. Few questions:
1. For some reason when I'm polishing the car, the buffer spits out tiny "dots" of dry polish on all surfaces of the car including windows and ruining my previous work What am I doing wrong?
2. How long do you polish a particular surface, till the polish drys out? For some reason, even though I apply generous amounts of polish the buffer drys it out very quickly and the surface becomes really hot. Also, how much pressure should I apply?
Thanks.
Thank you for the purchase I appreciate it! It sounds like you may be overworking the polish and maybe using too much. Generally when I start I put a few small dots on the pad and manually spread it across the surface the pad with my clean hands. After that I may apply 3+ pea sized drops around the pad. With the buffer off spread it around a 2ft x 2ft area, turn the buffer on and work it in. Moving slow and working it side to side and then up and down and then repeat. If it's warm outside the polish will dry up much faster so I highly recommend working in the shade with cooler temps. At most I use about 15 lbs of pressure when polishing, for other steps much lighter pressure is all you need. Additionally when you detail you may want to use a brand new pad halfway through the detail. If not try cleaning the pad by wiping a soft and clean cloth against it. You can mist a little quick detailer on there as well. This should help reduce the dusting but some of it is normal. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Old 06-20-2011, 10:52 AM   #3148
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My car has a ton of rock chips on the hood and I'm looking to touch them up using the OE touch up paint (got it for free so why not...). With a bunch of reading that I've done, a few places say you should wait a month before waxing the touched up surface. How true is this statement and should it be followed completely? I'm not sure how I feel about leaving what amounts to the entire front end of my car without wax for a month...

Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:05 PM   #3149
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Greg,

When polishing I noticed that some polish dust will get on the other panels of the car. How would you recommend me to deal with this? Should I use a QD to clean the dust off before I polish that panel or can i just polish over the polish dust?

Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:14 PM   #3150
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Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
My car has a ton of rock chips on the hood and I'm looking to touch them up using the OE touch up paint (got it for free so why not...). With a bunch of reading that I've done, a few places say you should wait a month before waxing the touched up surface. How true is this statement and should it be followed completely? I'm not sure how I feel about leaving what amounts to the entire front end of my car without wax for a month...

Thanks!
Check the bottle or the source of the paint you may be able to wax sooner than that but it really just depends on the paint. Unfortunately you'll just have to wait whatever time they suggest. Also take your time doing a little wet sanding and polish afterward for optimal performance.

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Old 06-22-2011, 08:16 PM   #3151
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Originally Posted by vasaline View Post
Greg,

When polishing I noticed that some polish dust will get on the other panels of the car. How would you recommend me to deal with this? Should I use a QD to clean the dust off before I polish that panel or can i just polish over the polish dust?

Thanks!
If you are getting a ton of dusting you may be overworking the product. Try cleaning the pad and using at least two pads per coat of polish so the pad stays fresh. If dust is on your next panel a quick wipe down with a microfiber towel or a microfiber towel and a little quick detailer can be helpful. Good luck!

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Old 06-23-2011, 12:26 AM   #3152
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I'm really sorry if this was already covered but it'a huge thread to search through.

I parked under a tree and there is sap stuck to the glass and paint. What is the best way to get rid of it?

Thanks
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:16 PM   #3153
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I'm really sorry if this was already covered but it'a huge thread to search through.

I parked under a tree and there is sap stuck to the glass and paint. What is the best way to get rid of it?

Thanks
It depends on how dry and baked in to the paint the sap is. If it's fresh a pressure washing can be great, just go to a local coin operated place if you don't have access to one. After that something like Mineral Spirits or the Stoner Tarminator are my choices. After any large chunks are removed the Glass Science Glass Scrub will help remove any residue left on the glass and for the paint a clay bar and polish will probably be needed which we can help you with if interested.

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Old 07-24-2011, 04:56 PM   #3154
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Greg,

I asked this in another thread, but wanted to check with you.

My sealants (Klasse and JetSeal) have become very thin and watery. I can't shake them up and make them thick. Are they still "ok" to use, or is it time to replace them?
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:56 PM   #3155
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great thread!!!
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:00 PM   #3156
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How many foam pads should be used when applying polish and sealant? Hand application. Thanks.
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:48 AM   #3157
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I don't know if this has been asked but might as well,

I have polished wheels that have been mirror shined.

What is the best product and technique to achieve that mirror shine again?

I use Mothers aluminam polish.. but its just not getting that mirror polish I want.

Thanks!



used to look like this




now it looks like this


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Old 09-26-2011, 10:10 AM   #3158
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Greg,

I had a Mtech II bumper painted last week. They painted it Monday, I was able to pick it up Tuesday. How long do I need to wait to apply Menzerna Power Lock Sealant. The guy at the paint shop told me they wait two weeks to apply a clear sealant. I think he was talking about the "lifetime" dealer stuff they charge you ten grand for. Do I need to wait this long to put the Menzerna on there? I want to get it protected as soon as I can.
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:33 PM   #3159
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Sorry for the super delayed response, I believe these posts are when I was a away for a bit. Even though it's probably too late I'd like to still post up an answer just in case.

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Originally Posted by aggieE46 View Post
Greg,

I asked this in another thread, but wanted to check with you.

My sealants (Klasse and JetSeal) have become very thin and watery. I can't shake them up and make them thick. Are they still "ok" to use, or is it time to replace them?
If you shook them vigorously for 5 - 10 minutes and they won't mix there has probably been some separation that will not be fixed. You can try using it on a small area to see if it's still working or throw it away if you want to be conservative.

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great thread!!!
Thanks!

Quote:
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How many foam pads should be used when applying polish and sealant? Hand application. Thanks.
For a hand application I use one clean foam applicator per product.

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Old 09-27-2011, 05:36 PM   #3160
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Originally Posted by IminDiegoTriick View Post
I don't know if this has been asked but might as well,

I have polished wheels that have been mirror shined.

What is the best product and technique to achieve that mirror shine again?

I use Mothers aluminam polish.. but its just not getting that mirror polish I want.

Thanks!
Make sure your wheel cleaner is pH neutral like the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect or the P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner. If the cleaner you use is too strong it may be slowly fading your wheels. I would use a quality metal polish on them to see if you can bring the shine back. The P21S Finish Restorer is one of my favorite options as it deep cleans and polishes the surface for a great shine. If you have any other questions please let me know!

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