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Old 11-04-2005, 08:04 PM   #301
ViNNie
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Hello i have a 2005 m3 carbon black.. I washed it last week and after drying i took a brand new micro fibre cloth and i quick detailed (meguires) the hood and now i have swirls very light but they bother me

can u point me in the right directions in what to buy

what wax? clybar? compound how to go about doin it

and what do i need to get it ready for the winter i live in canada so i was thinking the klasse so if u could out togther a nice package for me id be happy to buy from you

my email is vteste@hotmail.com

please help i know u have a great rep
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Old 11-05-2005, 09:17 AM   #302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ViNNie
Hello i have a 2005 m3 carbon black.. I washed it last week and after drying i took a brand new micro fibre cloth and i quick detailed (meguires) the hood and now i have swirls very light but they bother me

can u point me in the right directions in what to buy
ViNNie,

I will put together what I feel is one of the best packages for swirl removal / reduction and winter prep.

If you need a clay bar kit, I would suggest going with ClearKote's QD with 200g Bar. I would suggest picking up the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 to take care of your swirls and imperfections. From there you won't always be able to get out EVERY swirl, so we suggest using a glaze on top of the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. This will help hide some of the swirls that were too deep to remove. We stand by Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze. From there you need to protect your paint. Since you just used the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1, there's no need for another polish like Klasse AIO, so I would suggest a pure sealant, such as Menzerna FMJ or Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. Pure sealants are perfect for the upcoming winter since you can layer them for additional protection and gloss and depth. The reason I'm not suggesting Klasse AIO is because it is not layerable and the chemical polish in AIO will not take anything more out than the abrasive SSR2.5 and SSR1 combo.

From there if you really want to get into it you could top it with a carnauba, but being the winter time is coming up it won't give you much more protection if any, just some added depth or gloss.

Hope this helps... Another thing you could look into is our Porter Cable Bundle which will help amplify the results you would get by hand. PC is a great investment because your coats are more consistant, faster, and can heat the paint up more than you can by hand which means the polishes will work better at removing imperfections. Don't forget we have the e46 PC bundle.

Sincerely,

George @ DI
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Old 11-05-2005, 11:08 PM   #303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
ViNNie,

I will put together what I feel is one of the best packages for swirl removal / reduction and winter prep.

If you need a clay bar kit, I would suggest going with ClearKote's QD with 200g Bar. I would suggest picking up the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 to take care of your swirls and imperfections. From there you won't always be able to get out EVERY swirl, so we suggest using a glaze on top of the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. This will help hide some of the swirls that were too deep to remove. We stand by Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze. From there you need to protect your paint. Since you just used the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1, there's no need for another polish like Klasse AIO, so I would suggest a pure sealant, such as Menzerna FMJ or Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. Pure sealants are perfect for the upcoming winter since you can layer them for additional protection and gloss and depth. The reason I'm not suggesting Klasse AIO is because it is not layerable and the chemical polish in AIO will not take anything more out than the abrasive SSR2.5 and SSR1 combo.

From there if you really want to get into it you could top it with a carnauba, but being the winter time is coming up it won't give you much more protection if any, just some added depth or gloss.

Hope this helps... Another thing you could look into is our Porter Cable Bundle which will help amplify the results you would get by hand. PC is a great investment because your coats are more consistant, faster, and can heat the paint up more than you can by hand which means the polishes will work better at removing imperfections. Don't forget we have the e46 PC bundle.

Sincerely,

George @ DI


How much will all that be with the pc?
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Old 11-08-2005, 02:13 PM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ViNNie
How much will all that be with the pc?
e46fanatics.com members special - PC w/ pads, velcro backing plate, pad cleaners $182.50
e46fanatics.com members special - 10X Microfiber towels - $21.99 (regularly $4.99 each)
Clear Kote Clay Bar w/lube $29.99
Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 $12.99 - Orange LC Pad
Poorboy's World SSR 1.0 $12.99 - White LC Pad
Menzerna FTG $12.99 - White LC Pad
Menzerna FMJ $49.99 - Black LC Pad
(optional) P21S Carnauba Wax $31.99 - Apply by hand w/supplied applicator
Free Shipping $0

Total w/out P21S Carnauba Wax - $323.45
Total w/ P21S Carnauba Wax - $355.44

You will get four pads with the PC that match up perfectly with the products recommended above. That gets you all of the top quality detailing products that will leave you with amazing results. Using this exact process, other people on this site have had some amazing success with making their ride look its absolute best. I use these same products on my own vehicles and recommend them highly. Please let me know if you have any questions about these products or any part of the detailing process.

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Old 11-08-2005, 09:57 PM   #305
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Minus the claybar, that is the EXACT package I got from DI to use on my car.

Before

After

Nuff said.
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Old 11-08-2005, 10:29 PM   #306
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I love looking at those before and after pics, nice work!.

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Old 11-10-2005, 05:18 PM   #307
ViNNie
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Ok so u will send everything below for 355.44 + 22.30 shipping minus the $15.00 right so the total is $362.74

please dont put a value of over $50 i dont want to pay duty and where should i paypal u the money?

please dont forget all the applicators 1 orange and 2 whites 1 black

thanks again greg (please dont use UPS)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
e46fanatics.com members special - PC w/ pads, velcro backing plate, pad cleaners $182.50
e46fanatics.com members special - 10X Microfiber towels - $21.99 (regularly $4.99 each)
Clear Kote Clay Bar w/lube $29.99
Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 $12.99 - Orange LC Pad
Poorboy's World SSR 1.0 $12.99 - White LC Pad
Menzerna FTG $12.99 - White LC Pad
Menzerna FMJ $49.99 - Black LC Pad
(optional) P21S Carnauba Wax $31.99 - Apply by hand w/supplied applicator
Free Shipping $0


Total w/ P21S Carnauba Wax - $355.44

You will get four pads with the PC that match up perfectly with the products recommended above. That gets you all of the top quality detailing products that will leave you with amazing results. Using this exact process, other people on this site have had some amazing success with making their ride look its absolute best. I use these same products on my own vehicles and recommend them highly. Please let me know if you have any questions about these products or any part of the detailing process.

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old 11-10-2005, 05:22 PM   #308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ViNNie
Ok so u will send everything below for 355.44 + 22.30 shipping minus the $15.00 right so the total is $362.74

please dont put a value of over $50 i dont want to pay duty and where should i paypal u the money?

please dont forget all the applicators 1 orange and 2 whites 1 black

thanks again greg (please dont use UPS)

Your all set just pay pal the ($362.74) and we'll make sure you get all the right products.

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Old 11-10-2005, 06:40 PM   #309
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Paypal address btw:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
Your all set just pay pal the ($362.74) and we'll make sure you get all the right products.

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old 11-10-2005, 08:02 PM   #310
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i sent the money Greg thank you so much!!!!
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:39 AM   #311
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George, is Mothers metal polich comparable to the products you mentioned or I need to buy those to achieve better results for the wheels?

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Your best bet is going to be to use a metal polish, something like P21s Finish Restorer or Wenol. Then to make your life easier in the future for cleaning and protecting, throw a coat of Wheel Sealant on. This will help prevent brake dust from adhering to the wheel as much and also protect your wheels from other road contamination.

That will be your best method. A carnauba wax shouldn't do much for protection as they are the shortest protecting wax you can use and the lowest melting temperature, however they do provide a nice gloss. But all in all the metal polish will help clean up any oxidation or stubborn stains you couldn't get out.

Sincerely,

George @ DI
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Old 11-11-2005, 09:05 AM   #312
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It might do the trick for you, metal polish is pretty similar its just how aggressive it is. I know the P21s has a little bite to it to get rid of stubborn oxidation. They sell stuff more aggressive and some that is a lot less aggressive. Either way the biggest thing would be to protect it w/ a sealant of some sort after polishing.

George

Quote:
Originally Posted by gukish
George, is Mothers metal polich comparable to the products you mentioned or I need to buy those to achieve better results for the wheels?

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:12 AM   #313
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wheels polishing

ok i have a question in here. i have a set of ssr gt3 rims with a dip lip what do you sugest to polish them. it has mate inside finish and the lip is machined finish.

happy motoring
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:37 PM   #314
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For us college students... what is your advice for long term outdoor parking? Car cover may not be an option because it will obstruct the parking permit, and I'll get a million tickets. I'm in northern California so the car would be exposed to some rain, and definitely plenty of sun. Color is Orient Blue and I will definitely be tinting to preserve the leather.

Any solutions for a long-term wax seal that will protect the finish for a couple months at a time?
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:37 PM   #315
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Above post goes for wheels as well I suppose. Thanks a lot...
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:31 PM   #316
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I've read this whole thread, and the howto's on detailedimage.com and properautocare.com
My car normally gets detailed professionally with maintenance washes by me, but I would like to take on this duty myself. It was detailed a couple months ago so I can probably skip the SSR and clay bar steps. (with the plastic bag on hand, I can feel a few bits of contaminants per square foot but much of the car feels like a mirror.

I will be working by hand, Klasse AIO followed by a few coats of Klasse HGSG, probably top it with P21s Carnuba. I have read the proper techniques for applying these products, but have not seen much discussion about the removal techniques.
When buffing off the HGSG (which I hear is not all that easy) do you use a circular motion, back and forth? do you do it with a dry microfiber or hit it with some Quick Detailer?

I know that the longer I leave the glaze on, the easier it will be to remove, but time is precious if I plan to do multiple coats. How quickly could I buff it off after applying? Is 2hrs too short? After it has been buffed, how long realistically does it need to cure before applying another coat of HGSG?

I'm guessing it would be really bad to take the car out for a drive in between coats of HGSG. Is my car going to be confined to the garage all weekend?

Eventually I will order some SSR, Porter Cable and clay bar to do my wife's car as well.
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:25 PM   #317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syrousd
ok i have a question in here. i have a set of ssr gt3 rims with a dip lip what do you sugest to polish them. it has mate inside finish and the lip is machined finish.

happy motoring

There are some metal polishes that you can use that would work great on the lip. However when cleaning any wheel make sure your using a nice and clean applicator whether its a towel or pad. I really like the microfiber two sided polishing towels. If the wheels need any kind of restoration than I like to use the P21S finish restorer. If the wheels are in good condition you may be better off going with the Wenol Metal Polish. These are both great products that really bring out a bright shine from your wheels by removing contamination that is almost impossible to see with the naked eye. After I apply a metal polish and have gotten the wheels looking nice I like to apply Wheel Wax or the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. These products give the wheels a nice "glow" and protects them from contamination. The micro thin barrier these products leave keeps the conatmination on the surface for easy removal and reduces the ability for contamination to build up on the wheel. The best part is that it prevents the sizziling brake dust from etching in to the wheel and prevents long term damage. When taking care of the wheels I like to always protect each time I polish, saves you more time in the long run.

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Old 11-11-2005, 06:37 PM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penguintheory
For us college students... what is your advice for long term outdoor parking? Car cover may not be an option because it will obstruct the parking permit, and I'll get a million tickets. I'm in northern California so the car would be exposed to some rain, and definitely plenty of sun. Color is Orient Blue and I will definitely be tinting to preserve the leather.

Any solutions for a long-term wax seal that will protect the finish for a couple months at a time?
Parking outside is not easy for those who really care about their vehicles. I park my truck outside and its always difficult to keep it in perfect condition. The window tints your getting will surely help. I always recommend sealants over traditional waxes when you want the maximum protection and appearance for your vehicle. Since you live in Cali I would recommend the Klasse All In One. This is truly an amazing product because it chemically polishes your paint so it looks brighter. It also is an acrylic resin that leaves durable protection on the paint that will last about 4 -6 months realistically. If you want the maximum protection I would recommend you do a coat of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze after. This is an extremely durable coat of sealant that will give you some serious protection against the elements. These two coats will give you tremendous shine with good protection.

I also recommend fabric guarding your carpets with the 303 fabric guard. This helps seal out moisture and othe contaminates to keep fabrics looking their absolute best. The fabric guard smells great, keep your carpets looking new and significantly reduces cleaning time.

To maintain the leather I clean it regularly and make sure it gets conditioned a couple times a year. I really like the leatherique prestine clean to clean and condition my leather. e46fanatics.com members special that get you the Prestine Clean (reg $17.99) for $16.99 w/microfiber towel and terry cloth applicator pad. Found at the link at the bottom of my signature.

For your wheels just look at the previous post where I mentioned the Wheel Wax and the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. All of these products can be found at www.detailedimage.com and you can always ask me any questions you would like about the products. Hope this answered some of your questions.

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Old 11-11-2005, 07:04 PM   #319
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Originally Posted by sanfransoxfan04
I've read this whole thread, and the howto's on detailedimage.com and properautocare.com
My car normally gets detailed professionally with maintenance washes by me, but I would like to take on this duty myself. It was detailed a couple months ago so I can probably skip the SSR and clay bar steps. (with the plastic bag on hand, I can feel a few bits of contaminants per square foot but much of the car feels like a mirror.

I will be working by hand, Klasse AIO followed by a few coats of Klasse HGSG, probably top it with P21s Carnuba. I have read the proper techniques for applying these products, but have not seen much discussion about the removal techniques.
When buffing off the HGSG (which I hear is not all that easy) do you use a circular motion, back and forth? do you do it with a dry microfiber or hit it with some Quick Detailer?

I know that the longer I leave the glaze on, the easier it will be to remove, but time is precious if I plan to do multiple coats. How quickly could I buff it off after applying? Is 2hrs too short? After it has been buffed, how long realistically does it need to cure before applying another coat of HGSG?

I'm guessing it would be really bad to take the car out for a drive in between coats of HGSG. Is my car going to be confined to the garage all weekend?

Eventually I will order some SSR, Porter Cable and clay bar to do my wife's car as well.
When I remove I use only high end microfiber towels. I use this microfiber towel, that are on sale for e46fanatics.com members only (10X for $21.99, reg $3.99/per towel). The first time I use one I wash them to ensure nothing has clung to them and I always store them in a sealed container. I typically apply a product like Klasse AIO to one or two panels (with a microfiber applicator if doing it by hand) and then remove it right away. To remove I fold the microfiber towel in fourths (giving you eight different sides to wipe with) and wipe the microfiber towel in a back and forth motion. After I have removed a panel I'll flip the towel over and use a fresh side. If the towel has been used on all sides then I pull a new one. If you let the Klasse AIO sit for a while or in extreme temperatures it may be difficult to remove. I usually don't need a quick detailer to help me but occasionally I'll get it out if need be. For the HGSG I like to let it sit as long as possible (8 -12) hours befor removing. After that long it removes as easy as the Klasse AIO does. The 8 - 12 hours is the minimum time for full curing of the coats. Can you apply multiple coats before that, yes but at some point your going to be buffing off previous layers that have not had time to cure yet. I think if you wait two hours and then remove and apply another coat then by hand you'll still get increase protection and not remove too much of the previously applied coat. If you remove it about two hours you might need some quick detailer to help you remove the excess product. The longer you let it sit the better its going to be. As soon as you have buffed it off you can apply the next coat. The quicker you do it the less effective each coat will be, so I guess this is partially a judgement call. In summary wait as long as you can before buffing off and applying the next coat and apply another coat when your ready it shouldn't be significantly affected if you can wait two hours.

I would hihgly recommend you do not drive anywhere in between coats, ideally keep it in a closed garage between coats. If you drive the car or leave it out, contamination is going to gather on the surface. Then when you apply the next coat you'll be working the conatminates into the clear coat and possibly damaging your finish. Sometimes the best way to do the HGSG coats is to do the entire process at night. Let the first coat sit all night and then remove the coat in the morning and then apply another coat. I personally think that 2 - 3 coats is ideal.

I hope I was able to clarify all of your questions. I commend you for doing some research first and then asking some informed questions. It sounds like you have a relatively good idea on how to detail. Please post some pics or let us know how it turns out. With such great products its really hard to go wrong. Please let me know if you need any clarification on any of these topics. I look forward to hearing from you.

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Old 11-13-2005, 06:13 PM   #320
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I also am a college student and my Z has to be parked outside now since im not living at home. I really need to protect my top since this is the first year it will be outside. Have you heard of RaggTop? What would you suggest as a good cleaner and sealant?
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