E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Car Care & Detailing

Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 35 votes, 5.00 average.
Old 11-13-2005, 05:49 PM   #321
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///McKinzie
I also am a college student and my Z has to be parked outside now since im not living at home. I really need to protect my top since this is the first year it will be outside. Have you heard of RaggTop? What would you suggest as a good cleaner and sealant?

I really like to use the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover to clean tops. I just spray a mist over a section of the top (or heavy on stained areas) and then use a clean brush to work it in gently. The reason you want a nice clean brush is so the ends of the brush are not frayed and don't pull at the top. It can also be used on just about your entire interior as well so its a great all around product. To seal it I use the 303 Fabric Guard, which I also use on my interior carpets as well. This really helps seal out any moisture and contamination build up. Both are really great products than can serve multiple purposes and give you outstanding results.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2005, 10:35 PM   #322
sanfransoxfan04
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 61
My Ride: 2004 330i SMG sport
Send a message via AIM to sanfransoxfan04
Thanks to everyone who posted here, your information and DI's replys have been quite valuable.

This weekend I washed, Klasse AIO, followed by 2 coats of Klasse HGSG. I think I may have applied the HGSG too thin though. I would start my microfiber with a nickel size dab of the HGSG, apply to one section then re-apply a few drops for the next 2 square feet or so. Having read so many comments of how less is more, I really tried not to over do it. The problem with putting it on so thin is I cant tell easily where I have applied and what spots I may have missed. I might add that I was doing this in a shared garage with a flourescent light above, not really well lit. I let 12+ hrs between coats for the HGSG to cure.
When I came back to remove each coat, I would use a microfiber folded in 4ths and start wiping away. The problem I had is I could not tell the difference between an area I had wiped off and an area I had not. I really had no no way of telling if I had properly removed the excess HGSG. Looking at the microfiber, there would not be a lot of extra wax or residue after I wiped a panel, am I actually doing this right?

How do I know when I have applied the correct amount of HGSG, how do I know when I have removed it properly? How much pressure do I apply when removing?

P.S. what a freakin chore it all was, If one of those porter cable units saves my arms from falling off, I will be purchasing one next time.
sanfransoxfan04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2005, 10:10 AM   #323
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
Glad to hear the posts have been helpful. The HGSG applies very thin and is hard to see so it does make the job a little harder to do. You've got the right idea, apply a relatively small amount to a 2x2 section and then wait 12hrs and remove with a microfiber towel folded in fourths. To make sure you remove the HGSG entirely I usually use medium pressure and follow a similar pattern as I do when I apply. You shouldn't be pressing overly hard but its going to take some muscle to remove the product. Remove it in sections and work in a pattern so you know you've covered all areas regardless of what you can see. Obviously this doesn't mean you have removed every bit of the HGSG. To see where you may have missed your probably going to need a little bit more light. I often look at the paint from multiple angles when removing to ensure its all removed. When I'm done I like to go back and do a one more walk around to ensure I got it all. Then to make sure its perfect I back the car out in to the sun and give it a final wipe down of any areas that I might have missed. Generally the more light you have the easier it is, hence why backing it out in to the sun helps tremendously. For the HGSG I probably use atleast two microfiber towels. When one side of the towel is getting HGSG built up in it flip it over and don't hesitate to use more towels. If I use one towel for too long you can usally tell because it streaks instead of just lifting the product.

To know the proper amount to apply is hard to put in words sometimes. The product should be able to spread over the 2x2 area no problem. The area should have a light clouded look with a thin coating of product on it. The product spreads relatively thin so it may be hard to tell how much is enough or too much. If the product is caking up then you probably used too much. I think you'll really need to bring in some more light to help see if the area was properly covered. Using a microfiber applicator instead of a towel will also help or the Porter Cable as you mentioned. The Porter Cable does save your arms quite a bit since it only weighs about 6lbs. It gives you more even coverage of pressure and heat which helps the product breakdown and do its job better. Frequently when applying by hand you can only apply pressure throught the tips of your fingers and that pressure varies tremendously throughout an entire detail, especailly with multiple coats. The Porter Cable saves your arms and gives a much better shine IMO. There is a specail we are running for e46fanatics.com members only that gets you the Porter Cable, velcro backing plate (so you can change pads easy, four pads, two snappy clean pad cleaners for $182.50. This is a great deal that I highly recommend for anyone who hasn't already bought a PC and wants to give their car the best look possible. Hope this helped answer some of your questions. Don't hesitate to post more questions if you think of any.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanfransoxfan04
Thanks to everyone who posted here, your information and DI's replys have been quite valuable.

This weekend I washed, Klasse AIO, followed by 2 coats of Klasse HGSG. I think I may have applied the HGSG too thin though. I would start my microfiber with a nickel size dab of the HGSG, apply to one section then re-apply a few drops for the next 2 square feet or so. Having read so many comments of how less is more, I really tried not to over do it. The problem with putting it on so thin is I cant tell easily where I have applied and what spots I may have missed. I might add that I was doing this in a shared garage with a flourescent light above, not really well lit. I let 12+ hrs between coats for the HGSG to cure.
When I came back to remove each coat, I would use a microfiber folded in 4ths and start wiping away. The problem I had is I could not tell the difference between an area I had wiped off and an area I had not. I really had no no way of telling if I had properly removed the excess HGSG. Looking at the microfiber, there would not be a lot of extra wax or residue after I wiped a panel, am I actually doing this right?

How do I know when I have applied the correct amount of HGSG, how do I know when I have removed it properly? How much pressure do I apply when removing?

P.S. what a freakin chore it all was, If one of those porter cable units saves my arms from falling off, I will be purchasing one next time.
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2005, 03:27 PM   #324
deletedpenguin
Registered User
 
deletedpenguin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 14,100
My Ride: is gone!
Send a message via Skype™ to deletedpenguin
Is there a special tool to clean between body paneling? I can never get the dowel that far in, and from the side, you can still see dirt inside the crease...
__________________
Stefan | American by birth, Swedish by heritage, Australian by choice.
My current photo galleries.
deletedpenguin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 09:54 AM   #325
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
I don't have any tool that I use for that area and I'm not aware of one out there. Those areas can be tough to clean and I don't think there is a tool for it because of the risk to scratch the paint on the surrounding area while putting a brush in there. I usually force a microfiber towel in there and it usually gets it out no problem. Sometimes I have to really work the towel into that area to get it in there. Other than that I don't really have any special tips or products. Maybe someone else here on the board has been able to solve this problem.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 10:14 AM   #326
sanfransoxfan04
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 61
My Ride: 2004 330i SMG sport
Send a message via AIM to sanfransoxfan04
I was at Diable Auto Detailing here in Norcal getting a wash once and the owner would do a final inspection of all detail jobs, scooting around the car on a stool, looking for imperfections with a loupe. He had a fat toungue depresser / popsicle stick that he would insert into a folded microfiber, very thin profile, allowed him to get into those tight places with good control and little chance of scratching.
sanfransoxfan04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 10:36 AM   #327
kpeng
Banned User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 25,710
My Ride: E46 330 and E30 325
Quote:
Originally Posted by deletedpenguin
Is there a special tool to clean between body paneling? I can never get the dowel that far in, and from the side, you can still see dirt inside the crease...
take a q-tip to it.

-Ken
kpeng is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 11:10 AM   #328
meistman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 1
My Ride: E46
Hi George / Greg,

This is without doubt the one thread that has summed up my entire 2 months search for the ultimate detailing heaven. You guys have been amazingly detailed (pun) in your tips and replies which have left me reading ALL 17 pages without pauses. Your advizes are clear, precise and most importantly MAKES ALOT OF SENSE for newbies to detailing like me.

I have many questions so please bear with me:

Scenario:
Car: 4 months old Honda Civic - Black
Condition: 2 professional wax/polish (Zaino Bros & Marine Teflon Wax). Currently with patches of swirls here and there that is causing me alot of stress.
Location: Singapore
Climate: Hot & Humid
Additional: Rain quite often
Detail Habits: Self by Hand. Wash 4-5 days with water - Dry with Microfibre Cloth. Occasional Quick-Detail Spray.
Facilities: I live in an apt block and have no access to hose water / electricity.

Aim:
I regularly clean my car given the restricted access to facilities hence looking for the best way to do with what I've got and obtain maximum results.

Question:
Upon reading your informative guides, I've decided to go with:

Wash + Klase AIO + HGSG + P21S Concour Carnauba Wax (All done by hand)

My questions for the above are:

(1) Is the above process sufficient for a deep shine look?

(2) What additional tips would you recommend.

(3) Between each process, what is the waiting time as I've read from other posts that it should be around 12hrs? Are there other alternatives? My carpark is a common area hence I would prefer to finish everything all at one go.

(4) I read that natural carnauba wax don't work well in humid/hot conditions. What is your take?

(5) I often read about the types of cloths to be used. Maybe you can enlighten us on how to maintain the cloths because I believe it is logical we clean it in a proper manner to prevent uneccessary issues.

(6) I intend to buy the above products (and others as well) from you. Do you ship to Singapore?

Last edited by meistman; 11-15-2005 at 11:34 AM.
meistman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 11:20 AM   #329
trippinbillies4
Registered User
 
trippinbillies4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 836
My Ride: '02 Mini, '13 FR-S
Hey guys at DI, quick question:

How do you recommend cleaning the pads for my PC? I got some kind of tool and a couple packs of some kind of solvent from you, and I have no idea how to use them. any suggestions?
__________________
__________________________________________________

'02 Mini Cooper #40HS
trippinbillies4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 03:34 PM   #330
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanfransoxfan04
I was at Diable Auto Detailing here in Norcal getting a wash once and the owner would do a final inspection of all detail jobs, scooting around the car on a stool, looking for imperfections with a loupe. He had a fat toungue depresser / popsicle stick that he would insert into a folded microfiber, very thin profile, allowed him to get into those tight places with good control and little chance of scratching.

Good idea I do actually do something similar now that I think of it.

Kpeng - good idea with the qtips as well, never tried that on the exterior.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 03:48 PM   #331
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by meistman
Hi George / Greg,

This is without doubt the one thread that has summed up my entire 2 months search for the ultimate detailing heaven. You guys have been amazingly detailed (pun) in your tips and replies which have left me reading ALL 17 pages without pauses. Your advizes are clear, precise and most importantly MAKES ALOT OF SENSE for newbies to detailing like me.

I have many questions so please bear with me:

Scenario:
Car: 4 months old Honda Civic - Black
Condition: 2 professional wax/polish (Zaino Bros & Marine Teflon Wax). Currently with patches of swirls here and there that is causing me alot of stress.
Location: Singapore
Climate: Hot & Humid
Additional: Rain quite often
Detail Habits: Self by Hand. Wash 4-5 days with water - Dry with Microfibre Cloth. Occasional Quick-Detail Spray.
Facilities: I live in an apt block and have no access to hose water / electricity.

Aim:
I regularly clean my car given the restricted access to facilities hence looking for the best way to do with what I've got and obtain maximum results.

Question:
Upon reading your informative guides, I've decided to go with:

Wash + Klase AIO + HGSG + P21S Concour Carnauba Wax (All done by hand)

My questions for the above are:

(1) Is the above process sufficient for a deep shine look?

(2) What additional tips would you recommend.

(3) Between each process, what is the waiting time as I've read from other posts that it should be around 12hrs? Are there other alternatives? My carpark is a common area hence I would prefer to finish everything all at one go.

(4) I read that natural carnauba wax don't work well in humid/hot conditions. What is your take?

(5) I often read about the types of cloths to be used. Maybe you can enlighten us on how to maintain the cloths because I believe it is logical we clean it in a proper manner to prevent uneccessary issues.

(6) I intend to buy the above products (and others as well) from you. Do you ship to Singapore?

Glad to hear you were able to take advantage of all the information on the in this post. Sounds like it was a lot of reading but well worth it.

1.) Those three products will give you tremendous gloss and lots of deep shine. The P21S carnauba wax specializes in giving you gloss and depth in the paint.

2.) Tips, there are so many I recommend you look at our "How To" page on www.detailedimage.com. There is lots of information on there and if that doesn't answer some of your questions then feel free to post up some more questions and I would be happy to address them.

3.) There is no wait time on the Klasse AIO and P21S Carnauba Wax. I usually do one or two panels and then remove the product right away. For the Klasse HGSG you want to wait and let it cure which also makes the removal process easier as well. You can remove it right away but its a little bit hard to remove right away and you'll get slightly better results by letting it sit longer. Some people let the car sit in a garage all night and then finish it in the morning.

4.) Carnauba waxes don't last that long (approximately 1 month) In temperatures over 100 degrees it proably won't last much more than a week or two. The carnauba waxes don't offer much protection but they earn their reputation for really adding "pop" to the paint thats very eye catching.

5.) I believe your refering to microfiber cloths and how to maintain them. I put them in my regular washer with Tide or any generic cleaner. Do not use any fabric guard! You can machine dry them, I do, but they will probably last longer and stay a little nicer if you let them air dry. I store mine in a rubbermaid container to prevent from any contaminates from collecting on it. I also don't use them on any dirty areas of the car, save that for old microfiber towels or rags. I only use nice and new towels for the painted surfaces. Don't let them touch the ground and just try to keep them as clean as possible.

6.) We do ship to Singapore and just about any place in the world.

Please let me know if you have any more questions. I can help you pick out washing detailing bundles and other steps too if you want to look in to them.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 03:51 PM   #332
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippinbillies4
Hey guys at DI, quick question:

How do you recommend cleaning the pads for my PC? I got some kind of tool and a couple packs of some kind of solvent from you, and I have no idea how to use them. any suggestions?

The tool is a spur that i use to help remove any built up product. Sometimes products can get caked on the pad (more often this happens on rotary buffers). I turn the machine on about speed 3 -4 and then gently press the spur in to the pad. To actually clean the pad follow the directions on the side of the Snappy Cleans. Basically just put your pads in water with the powder mix for about 15 minutes. About midway through I massage the pads to try to get as much product as i can out of the pad and let them sit for a few minutes. After 15 minutes I blast the pads with a hose and rinse it the best I can. When I'm done I wring them out and let them sit in the sun to dry.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 03:56 PM   #333
trippinbillies4
Registered User
 
trippinbillies4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 836
My Ride: '02 Mini, '13 FR-S
easy enough! thanks!

My uncle just bought a 2002 530i, I told him I would clean it up for him. Pics soon!
__________________
__________________________________________________

'02 Mini Cooper #40HS
trippinbillies4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2005, 10:43 PM   #334
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by trippinbillies4
easy enough! thanks!

My uncle just bought a 2002 530i, I told him I would clean it up for him. Pics soon!
Can't wait to see pics.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2005, 03:17 PM   #335
blayzirell
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Redwood City
Posts: 96
My Ride: 03 325i
I am the best automobile detailer on my block but I still need some help!!

Ok for the past 2 weekends I have done the full Klasse AIO and Glaze.

This coming weekend I want to keep it simple and still get that shine.

I plan to use Meguiar's Car Wash soap, not Dawn!

I plan to dry it with microfiber as well but after I'm done with that, how can I still get that amazing shine with out applying Klasse again.

Should I use a spray detailer? I won't have time to order a high class detailer by Friday but for now, what local product from Pepboys or Kragen could I use that is good??

What product can I order for the following weekend? Some high class stuff!

Thanks!
__________________
2007.5 - 335i

2003 - 325i
blayzirell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2005, 03:19 PM   #336
kpeng
Banned User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 25,710
My Ride: E46 330 and E30 325
hey blayzirell, if you want to maintain that shine that Klasse gave you, and maybe add a bit more to it. I would suggest putting some carnuaba on there in between Klasse jobs. It'll keep the paint smooth, and it'll boost your shine and dept some more.

-Ken
kpeng is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2005, 03:27 PM   #337
blayzirell
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Redwood City
Posts: 96
My Ride: 03 325i
Ok sounds good to me!

How about spray detailers. Not the waxy ones you have to buff off. The ones where you spray on and off such as Meguiar's NXT Speed Detailer? Will that work or no. What do you think is a good Carnauba wax from Pepboys?
__________________
2007.5 - 335i

2003 - 325i
blayzirell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2005, 03:36 PM   #338
kpeng
Banned User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 25,710
My Ride: E46 330 and E30 325
spray detailers are usually used for touchups. Say some dirt build up or something and you just want to wipe it off without scratching the paint. It doesn't do much to make the paint shine or anything like that.

Best carnuaba wax from Pepboys? I'd have to tell ya either the 3M stuff or Meguiar's #26 Yellow Wax.

-Ken
kpeng is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2005, 03:40 PM   #339
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 5,865
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by blayzirell
Ok sounds good to me!

How about spray detailers. Not the waxy ones you have to buff off. The ones where you spray on and off such as Meguiar's NXT Speed Detailer? Will that work or no. What do you think is a good Carnauba wax from Pepboys?

I'm not sure what Carnauba waxes pepboys carries. If your looking to have some of the best products available then I would look into the P21S Carbauba Wax. It leaves an unbelievably glossy and deep look to the paint. I can get about 20+ uses out of one jar so its actually not that expensive on a per use basis. If your looking for a product that could compare to the Klasse twins (ps I love the twins myself) but still giving you great protection I would recommend you look into the Menzerna FMJ. I can not find any comparable product in terms of shine and durbaility that also applies so easy. I can do an entire coat of FMJ by myself in about 30 -40 minutes. For quick detailers that actually add a lot of gloss and still give protection I like the Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield. Its basically a spray on version of the FMJ that puts pop in your paint and also extends the durability of the underlying base coat of protection. Spary on and buff off quick, usually takes about 15 minutes to do. These products are all available online at www.detailedimage.com. We ship almost always same day as an order is placed. We also offer overnight and second day shipping as well. If you have any other questions about detailing products or procedures please let me know.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2005, 04:53 PM   #340
pbbilll2004
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: l.a.
Posts: 7
My Ride: 330 ci
Convertible Top Wealing Mistake

Hi,

I bought the BMW Convertible Sealer Impregnator (the type you mix w/ water 10:1) and applied to my 04 330ci with a terry towel. Now my top has white lint everywhere. ANy ideas on how to get it off? Any help is appreciated
pbbilll2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use