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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 11-16-2005, 07:07 PM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blayzirell
I am the best automobile detailer on my block but I still need some help!!

Ok for the past 2 weekends I have done the full Klasse AIO and Glaze.

This coming weekend I want to keep it simple and still get that shine.

I plan to use Meguiar's Car Wash soap, not Dawn!

I plan to dry it with microfiber as well but after I'm done with that, how can I still get that amazing shine with out applying Klasse again.

Should I use a spray detailer? I won't have time to order a high class detailer by Friday but for now, what local product from Pepboys or Kragen could I use that is good??

What product can I order for the following weekend? Some high class stuff!

Thanks!
If you have a Harley or almost any type of motorcycle store nearby check to see if they have s100 carnauba paste wax. It's basically the same as p21s but cheaper.

Just one caveat about using a topper such as carnauba, you can't add another layer of klasse or synthetic type sealant on top of it.
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Old 11-16-2005, 07:13 PM   #342
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Originally Posted by pbbilll2004
Hi,

I bought the BMW Convertible Sealer Impregnator (the type you mix w/ water 10:1) and applied to my 04 330ci with a terry towel. Now my top has white lint everywhere. ANy ideas on how to get it off? Any help is appreciated

Soft tops can be a little harder to maintain but it looks like your already taking some steps to keep it in good condition. Couple different ways you can remove it. You can go to home depot or a hardware store and get some painters tape and cut off a piece longer than the width of your convertible top. Doing this next part is much easier if you have someone to do this with you. Working front to back or back to front take the tape and put it on your convertible top. Lift it up and it should help pull out the lint. Make sure you don't press the tape down too hard, you don't want to pull the fibers out. Assuming its doing a good job lift it up and move it back about three inches or whatever the width is of the tape until you have done the entire car. If that doesn't work you can take a clean brush (highly recommend getting a new one) and gently brushing from the middle of the top towards the outside. The reason I recommend a new brush is because you don't want an old brush with split ends pulling at the convertible top fibers. If for some reason both of these steps don't work let me know and I'll look into this some more.

I also don't recommend using a terry cloth on the tops. Use microfiber if possible. I also recommend blot drying instead of wiping to help prevent pulling of the fibers or leaving lint behind. Hope this all helped, let us know how you make out.

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Old 11-17-2005, 12:14 PM   #343
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Thank You

Great advice, thanks. I just left a vm at your work number as I would like to discuss my order for \microfiber towels, a clay and high-end all-in one to remove minor scratches, polish, carnauba and sealant.

Bill
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Old 11-17-2005, 05:00 PM   #344
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Thanks for the phone call, it was nice talking with you and getting the right package together for you. Let me know if you need anything else.

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Old 11-21-2005, 11:43 PM   #345
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Great thread!! The most useful thread I've found in just about any forum, much thanks to Detailed Image!

I took the time and read through all 18 pages, but quite frankly it's still pretty confusing as to which ones I need, so I figured it'd be best to explain my situation:

It's been a little more than 2 months since I took delivery of my car and I've washed every 1.5 to 2 weeks with 2 seperate buckets, microfiber wash mitts and microfiber towels. Haven't done any polish/wax yet because I was a bit busy but now I'm in desperate need of one.

For the last 2-3 washes I've noticed spots on my hood, trunk and roof that I just can't seem to get rid of with Meguiars Gold Class Carwash soup, so I was a bit annoyed today and decided to use a bit more pressure when washing the car - big mistake, I ended up with some swirls on the hood and trunk but A LOT of swirls on the doors and I'm guessing that's not probably not all the swirls I have. The swirls are very thin, just about the thinnest swirls I've seen on any car, but there are a lot of them across the doors to the fender areas, they can only been seen in direct sunlight therefore I wasn't able to take pics of them, the swirls are faint but noticeable. I tried to get them out by using the flash on the camera but couldn't, for that reason I think they are not very deep scratches.

I'll be doing the detailing by hand because living at an apartment eliminated any chance for me to access a power outlet for a buffer. I'm thankful enough that I have a shaded area with water source for carwashes and my car is garaged.

I'm not sure which products I will need, I was thinking Klasse AIO but you said it won't be good enough for cars with swirls, can you please modify my list and give me what I need?

I was thinking:
Poorboy SSR 2.5 + SSR 1?
Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze?
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket?
Carnauba Wax?
Some microfiber application pads.

I really really hope that I won't have to claybar my car because I'm simply scared of messing up, I've included some photos of the dirty spots that I can't get rid of and the car after its wash today.

The dirty spots and thoughts of my brand new car having so many swirls has been driving me mad, please help!




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Old 11-22-2005, 06:12 PM   #346
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Color sanding

I needed to touch up some area with touch up paint. I built up the layers and put some clear over it. I used some 1500sand paper on flat block to sand it to the original level. Came out quite well. i use a rotary buffer with foam pad to polish out the sanding marks. Can't quite get them all out. using 3M rubbing compound #05973 and a white foam pad. What am I doing wrong? Sand with 2000 and retry? Coarser compound?

Thanks
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Old 11-22-2005, 11:47 PM   #347
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Great thread! I just bought a bunch of stuff from Detailed Image including the PC 7424. I'm switching over from Zaino to Menzerna. A question to Greg, I just purchased a used set of HRE 840r's. The previous owner said the lips were polished, when I got the wheels, the lips were very hazy in appearance, almost opaque. I washed and waxed them but can't seem to get that nice polished finish. I need to clean thru teh layers and layers of grime to reveal teh shine underneath. What's the best way to achieve that? Thanks Greg!
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Old 11-23-2005, 10:58 AM   #348
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Xens - Glad to hear you enjoyed reading the 18 pages, that took some dedication. To remove your swirls and get optimal shine you selected the right products. I would get atleast four applicator pads (P21S Carnauba Wax comes with one), we sell five for $9.95. You also should take advantage of our microfiber deal 10X for $21.99(see link in bottom of signature). This will allow you to remove the excess productsafely without creating more swirls. Keep these towels as prestine as possible. You can wash the applicator pads and towels in your regular washer just don't use fabric softner. Let me know if you have any questions.

seattle - Hard to say without seeing it. I know that good paint work usually takes multiple coats of wet sanding and a gradual progression through different grits. If its still rough or not at optimal height its highly unlikely that a compound or polish will fix the problem. The compound or polish will only remove minor imperfections. Here is a post from this section that deals with proper touch up procedures http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=274836&page=3. Hope that helps

ZQQM3R - Thanks for your support of Detailed Image! A metal polish like the P21S Finish Restorer will brighten the surface and clean it extremely well. However this doesn't gurantee it will remove the haze. often times the haze is a chemical reaction to improper cleaning materials.

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Old 11-23-2005, 01:41 PM   #349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
Xens - Glad to hear you enjoyed reading the 18 pages, that took some dedication. To remove your swirls and get optimal shine you selected the right products. I would get atleast four applicator pads (P21S Carnauba Wax comes with one), we sell five for $9.95. You also should take advantage of our microfiber deal 10X for $21.99(see link in bottom of signature). This will allow you to remove the excess productsafely without creating more swirls. Keep these towels as prestine as possible. You can wash the applicator pads and towels in your regular washer just don't use fabric softner. Let me know if you have any questions.



Greg @ Detailed Image
Thanks Greg! I just placed an order for a bunch of stuff from your website, I chose to get Klasse AIO + HGSG this time because I can only dedicate one day on the weekend to car care, so I thought the easier/faster nature of Klasse would do me good. I also chose to get SSR2+1 instead of 2.5+1 because my swirls are so faint and my paint is brand new so I thought I'd be as gentle as possible, and that 1 might already be strong enough, if not I'll try 2. What do you think? If you think I'd be better off with 2.5+1 then please change my order, you have my permission.

Gotta leave for work, thanks again Greg!
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Old 11-23-2005, 04:08 PM   #350
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Thanks for the order I saw it and processed and shipped it today. The 2.0 should be more than enough for a new car. You can try the SSR 1.0 first and if you need more than use the 2.0 followed up by the 1.0. Good luck with the products and let us know how it turns out.

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Old 11-23-2005, 11:29 PM   #351
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Thanks Greg, I went to my local Kragen and got a similar Mother's mag and aluminum cleaner. Guess what? My lips are now shiny and polished. Took me 4 hours to clean all 4 but well worth it. Thanks!
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:44 AM   #352
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George or Greg,

What is the best way to clean filthy carpet. The carpet in my wife's X5 has been attacked by our two boys with punch, cke, McDonalds, you name it. What shampoo, brushes, methods, wet vac, do you use. I know, I know....no food in the car. My wife's takes a beating so my M stays clean I guess
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Old 11-25-2005, 02:00 PM   #353
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Interior cleaning for car's like this is always fun. If you have an extractor or access to one that would be your best bet but since most people don't have that option I'll give you the next best process. First vaccum the worst areas up, don't get fussy with it. Then spray the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover on the heavily soiled areas. Using a nice clean brush srcub the carpets in different directions. Respray the area if need be and scrub again if needed. After you have spot treated the worst areas use the brush and work to loosen debris on the entire carpet. Work the debris towards one central area so it can be easily vaccumed later. The brush will help stir up far more soil and contaminates to be removed then just vaccuming alone. You can use the same 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover and a microfiber towel to do all your vinyl and dash. For leather I highly recommend the Leatherique Prestine Clean, which is the premier leather cleaner on the market. Works deep in to the pores to release contaminates and conditions the leather. There is an e46 special on this product: Regularly 17.99 sale price of 16.99 w/microfiber towel and terry cloth applicator pad. Click on the link in the bottom of my signature to see this and other specials for e46 members.

The next step you want to take after you taken all that time and cleaned your carpets is to Fabric Guard them with the 303 Farbric Guard. Most people don't invest in this simple product which is nothing short of amazing. Most people assume I clean my carpets like every couple of days when really I do it about every three months or so. Everytime I clean them I Fabric Guard them. Then about once every 1 - 2 weeks I take them out and just hit them once or twice and almost all the debris falls off. They look great year round with this simple step. The fabric guard prevents contaminates from building up and lodging themself in the carpet. Its also saved me from two soda spills myself. I travel a good amount so I have food in the car all the time, but you can do it when your careful and you have a back up plan. After hitting a nasty pothole the root beer went all over. It beaded right up on the carpets and I was able to wipe it up no problem with a napkin after I pulled over.

Hope this information helped, let me know if you need other tips or recommendations.

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Old 12-02-2005, 01:00 PM   #354
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Detailed Image guys,

First, thanks for all of the detailed explanations and answers! Awesome thread.

Several times in this thread you have mentioned that using the right pad is just as important as using the right product. I understand what PC pads need to be used; however, I do not have a PC and am planning on detailing by hand. (Eventually I'll get a PC just not at this moment) What applicator pads should I be using to apply the following by hand:

SSR 2.5
SSR 1
Menzerna Final Polish
Menzerna FMJ
Menzerna FTG

Best regards,

APerfect10

PS. I placed a small order last night; however, never received an email receipt. Can you please confirm that the order was received. Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2005, 02:22 PM   #355
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Glad to hear you've enjoyed the posts on here. We received your order and it was sent to FedEx at about 10am this morning. Confirmation e-mails are a little slow to send out sometimes but you should have gotten one by this morning.

There are some different applicators that you can get by hand. However since your hand will generate far less heat and overall pressure than a buffer it probably won't have a significant impact. I would recommend you apply it with a microfiber applicator pad and make sure you have a different pad for each product. We sell 5 applicators for 9.99.

FYI - If your applying the SSR 1 you don't have to apply the Final Polish II although it will help. Also just wanted to make sure apply the FTG after the SSRs and Final Polish II and before the FMJ.

Please let me know if you have any questions or if you need any other information with your detail.

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Old 12-02-2005, 02:25 PM   #356
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Just wanted to let everyone on the site know we added some new Holiday Specials to our site (www.detailedimage.com) that should save you some money as well as get you some more of the top quality detailing products. These products make great gifts for yourself or anyone who enjoys their vehicles.

Happy Holidays!

Greg and George @ Detailed Image
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Old 12-02-2005, 04:18 PM   #357
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Greg and George,

How long does it take you guys to clay a car? I'm looking for some tricks to do this a little faster. It took me about 8 hours to wash, dry, clay and hand wax last night. Wash and dry (including wheels) ~1.5 hour, clay ~2.5 hours, wax ~4 hours. I did it all by hand since I'm a little nervous about putting major swirls in my paint with a power buffer.

BTW, great thread, thanks for sharing your experience with us...
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Old 12-02-2005, 07:38 PM   #358
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I'm happy you like the posts, we put a lot of time and effort in delivering quality responses to our supports here on e46. Now down to business, reducing time is always one of our goals but never at the cost of quality. Usually the more time you spend the higher quality the detail so I'll give you some suggestions that will hopefully save you some time but not sacrifice any quality.

Obviously getting someone to help you is a great benefit, even if you do both of your cars.

When washing I usually do the wheels first, then wash from the top down and always work in some sort of pattern. When rinsing I remove the spray nozzle and let the water flow to flood the contaminates from the surface from the top down. Due to the fact that like particles cling together the water runs off the car better than just spraying it with the hose. I dry with suiper absorbent microfiber waffle weave towels to save lots of time. Two towels is usually more than enough to get a car thoroughly dry.

When claying it takes me about two hours depending on the condition of the paint. It depends on how particular you are with your detail. Its hard to speed up this step without sacrificing quality. However after you have done a good job claying the car it shouldn't be nearly as bad the next time you do it if you keep up with it on some regular basis (atleast twice a year).

For waxing I have no idea how it could take you four hours, that seems way too long. When using a sealant by hand I can do a thorough job applying and removing in usually well under an hour. What kind of wax are you using? A good sealnt like the Menzerna FMJ or Klasse AIO should apply and remove with little trouble. The sealants are more durable and usually give a better shine so I highly recommend you try one if you haven't already. Again work in a pattern when applying and remove with some high quality microfiber towels and it should come off no problem. I usually apply a sealant to 1 -2 panels and then remove it right away. The only product I sell that requires time to cure is the Klasse HGSG, all the rest can be removed right away. Generally its the heat and pressure you apply that allows the product to bond to your clear coat. If you let some products sit on the clear coat too long they can become drastically more difficult to remove. If your having trouble being careful around trim pieces and other areas try putting painter's tape around them so you can move through those areas easier.

You don't have to worry about adding swirls with a power buffer as long as you don't use a rotary buffer. Orbital buffers like the Porter Cable 7424 generate far less heat than a rotary so there is virtually no risk of harming the paint. The Porter Cable 7424 makes detailing go much faster and improves results in my opinion. If you would like help learning how to use one with the proper technique I would be more than happy to help you or anyone else learn to use on the proper way. Several people on this site have used one with little or no detailing experience and had outstanding results.

These were all the tips I could think of off the top of my head I'm sure there is plenty more out there on my site and from other members of the site. Let me know what you thought of the comments and if you have any questions.

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Old 12-05-2005, 11:38 PM   #359
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how long on each section?

Thanks for the great thread. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/.../worshippy.gif

I have a question on using the PC with the Menzerna products (and Klasse AIO).

The recommendations seem to usually be to run the PC until the product is "almost dry". Can someone give me a ballpark time frame for how long that usually is going to take for... say 1/3 of the hood? I am assuming it will vary some with climate, etc., but any feedback will be appreciated.

Also, what do you use to moisten the pad before starting... water, QD, nothing, other?

When I tried a couple of weeks ago, after spreading and buffing the product out to a very thin, even layer with the PC at 4-5, it looked like I was putting a thin layer of wax on. It was thin, clear, and kind of oily looking and it never seemed to dry no matter how long I kept going over it. It would also wipe off fairly easily, with only a few stubborn areas.

Was this because I used a QD product on the pad to moisten it instead of water? ... or maybe I had the pad too moist? (it wasn't very damp to touch, though). http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/iono.gif

Even if I left it on and went on to another section it didn't dry or haze over to any appreciable extent.

I am thinking it had to do with the QD on the pad, but I'm not sure. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/iono.gif

What do these products look like when they are "almost dry"? Do they haze at all? Can you smear them with your finger tip?


Thanks, http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif
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Old 12-06-2005, 12:00 AM   #360
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George or Greg,

What is the best way to clean filthy carpet. The carpet in my wife's X5 has been attacked by our two boys with punch, cke, McDonalds, you name it. What shampoo, brushes, methods, wet vac, do you use. I know, I know....no food in the car. My wife's takes a beating so my M stays clean I guess
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