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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 12-05-2005, 11:39 PM   #361
zaink
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i plan on doing a full detail soon, would it be better for me to Clay the polish (like with SSR) or to Clay>Clean (paint cleaner like DC1) then polish
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Old 12-06-2005, 09:58 AM   #362
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Your right that temperature, humidity and other factors can influence how dry the product will become. Also the word "dry" has a different meaning to different people. The Menzerna line recomends that you buff till its almost dry. I generally never let it get extremely dry because then it becomes hard to remove and you risk not having enough product on the pad. When I apply the Menzerna line of polishes they don't get very dry and they can still be a little hard to get off at times. I don't think you want to get it much dryer than you have it now. I do spray my pad with a light mist from a quick detailer and reapply it maybe 2-3 times throughout the detail. If there is too much on the surface of the pad wipe it off. Too much quick detailer will certainly make the product very hard to buff dry. Additionally if you use too much product its hard to thin it out and make it dry. My last tip is to do four passes over each area of the car to help make sure the product breaks down properly and does its job. To ensure that this happens I usually work in about a 2x2 area. I apply the product to the pad before the buffer is on and then spread the product over the 2x2 area by smearing the pad on it. Then turn the buffer on and work left to right overlapping each pass by 50% and then doing the same thing going up and down overlapping each pass by 50%. This process gives more even coverage of the product and the pressure from the pad, which in turn should deliver better results with the product.

In conclusion make sure your not using too much product or spraying to much quick detailer on the pad. One very light spray is more than enough in my opinion. Use the buffing techniques mentioned here and I think you'll get the results you're looking for. Don't get too worried about having the product become almost dry. Good luck and keep us posted on what you try and if there is improved results.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cthinker
Thanks for the great thread. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/.../worshippy.gif

I have a question on using the PC with the Menzerna products (and Klasse AIO).

The recommendations seem to usually be to run the PC until the product is "almost dry". Can someone give me a ballpark time frame for how long that usually is going to take for... say 1/3 of the hood? I am assuming it will vary some with climate, etc., but any feedback will be appreciated.

Also, what do you use to moisten the pad before starting... water, QD, nothing, other?

When I tried a couple of weeks ago, after spreading and buffing the product out to a very thin, even layer with the PC at 4-5, it looked like I was putting a thin layer of wax on. It was thin, clear, and kind of oily looking and it never seemed to dry no matter how long I kept going over it. It would also wipe off fairly easily, with only a few stubborn areas.

Was this because I used a QD product on the pad to moisten it instead of water? ... or maybe I had the pad too moist? (it wasn't very damp to touch, though). http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/iono.gif

Even if I left it on and went on to another section it didn't dry or haze over to any appreciable extent.

I am thinking it had to do with the QD on the pad, but I'm not sure. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/iono.gif

What do these products look like when they are "almost dry"? Do they haze at all? Can you smear them with your finger tip?


Thanks, http://forum.e46fanatics.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif
John
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Old 12-06-2005, 10:04 AM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaink
i plan on doing a full detail soon, would it be better for me to Clay the polish (like with SSR) or to Clay>Clean (paint cleaner like DC1) then polish

For best results
Wash - Dry - Clay Bar - Abrsive Polishes (SSRs) - Chemical Polishes (Paint Cleaner/Cleansers) - Seal - Wax

It is done in this order because if you cleaned the surface first then polished it with an abrasive polish you would wear down a micro thin layer of the clear coat that had just been cleaned. Instead use the SSR/abrasive polish first then clean the surface so its in ideal condition for being sealed or waxed. Thanks for posting and let us know if you have more questions or if you need product reocmendations for ideal results.

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Old 12-11-2005, 08:16 PM   #364
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Greg:

I've received my order quite a while ago, very fast shipping across the country, thank you very much!

Now I finally have time tomorrow to detail my car, but there's one thing I'm unsure about***********: What is the best way to use SSR 2.0 by hand? How much product should I use? How much pressure? How many strokes back and forth do you recommend usually before wiping off? Should I let it sit at all or remove right after?

Another thing, is there any harm in letting Klasse AIO sit a bit longer before wiping off? I'm afraid that I won't be able to have perfect timing so they might end up sitting a little longer before I remove them.

Sorry for asking so many questions at once, thanks!!!
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:50 AM   #365
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Glad you got your package so fast, we ship out all orders the day they are ordered as long as its before 4 pm EST and sometimes later.

You asked some great questions that are very commonly asked so hopefully I can provide some answers for you and others.

For the SSR 2.0 I think that using a buffer as opposed to by hand produces far better results, here's why:
- more surface area on the pad (6.5inch diameter) as opposed to your fingertips on a hand applicator
- more even distribution of pressure/heat and product
- the buffer doesn't get tired, your arm probably will

Can you apply it by hand and still get good results? Definitely yes its just hard to get consistent results throughout multiple coats in the detail. I assume you'll be applying this by hand, here's my quick how to:
- Wash and Dry first (good thorough wash!)
- Apply a quarter to a half dollar sized drop on the applicator (you may not need quite as much later as the pad becomes more saturated with product)
- Lightly spread the product over a 2x2 area or smaller (this step just helps spread the product out
- Now with medium pressure work the product in a circular motion, moving left to right in a steady slow pace
- After you have done an entire panel I would remove it with a microfiber cloth

As for the Klasse AIO you don't need to let it sit and cure. In fact the only product I sell that requires time to cure is the Klasse HGSG, all others can be removed immediately. I usually do about 1 -2 panels with the Klasse AIO and then remove it with a clean microfiber. Also you'll need less pressure and product with the Klasse. Use light to medium pressure when applying. I can usually do an entire mid sized car with about .75 ounces of the Klasse AIO when using a buffer. When applying it by hand it will probably take you atleast an ounce but it should be far less product than the SSRs.

Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions or need clarification.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Last edited by Greg@DetailedImage.com; 12-12-2005 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:36 AM   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
Glad you got your package so fast, we ship out all orders the day they are ordered as long as its before 4 pm EST and sometimes later.

You asked some great questions that are very commonly asked so hopefully I can provide some answers for you and others.

For the SSR 2.0 I think that using a buffer as opposed to by hand produces far better results, here's why:
- more surface area on the pad (6.5inch diameter) as opposed to your fingertips on a hand applicator
- more even distribution of pressure/heat and product
- the buffer doesn't get tired, your arm probably will

Can you apply it by hand and still get good results? Definitely yes its just hard to get consistent results throughout multiple coats in the detail. I assume you'll be applying this by hand, here's my quick how to:
- Wash and Dry first (good thorough wash!)
- Apply a quarter to a half dollar sized drop on the applicator (you may not need quite as much later as the pad becomes more saturated with product)
- Lightly spread the product over a 2x2 area or smaller (this step just helps spread the product out
- Now with medium pressure work the product in a circular motion, moving left to right in a steady slow pace
- After you have done an entire panel I would remove it with a microfiber cloth

As for the Klasse AIO you don't need to let it sit and cure. In fact the only product I sell that requires time to cure is the Klasse HGSG, all others can be removed immediately. I usually do about 1 -2 panels with the Klasse AIO and then remove it with a clean microfiber. Also you'll need less pressure and product with the Klasse. Use light to medium pressure when applying. I can usually do an entire mid sized car with about .75 ounces of the Klasse AIO when using a buffer. When applying it by hand it will probably take you atleast an ounce but it should be far less product than the SSRs.

Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions or need clarification.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Thank you so much!!! Last question, is 12 hours the minimum time required for the Klasse HGSG to cure before removal?
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:20 PM   #367
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I think 8 - 12 hours is the minimum range, the longer the better. I recommend applying it at night, letting it cure overnight and remove it in the morning unless you can let it sit in a garage all day. If you let it sit that long it should remove relatively easy. If you try to remove it right away its much harder and its less durable.

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Old 12-12-2005, 03:40 PM   #368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
I think 8 - 12 hours is the minimum range, the longer the better. I recommend applying it at night, letting it cure overnight and remove it in the morning unless you can let it sit in a garage all day. If you let it sit that long it should remove relatively easy. If you try to remove it right away its much harder and its less durable.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Thanks! I have another car to drive so I guess I'll take it to work and leave the BMW in the garage all day.
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:37 PM   #369
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Hi, this is my first question. I just got some Authentic ACS type III wheels and there are quite a number of chips on it. I'm wondering if you know I can use the touch-up paint method on them. Sorry but I have no idea what kind of finish it has or what kind of silver it is.

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:33 PM   #370
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Oh another thing, I've bought the complete kit of Leatherique a couple of months ago, but for some reason I can't quite seem to figure how to use them properly. I mean the oil never seem to really soak into the leather, I waited forever for them to soak in but they never did so I had to wipe them off, and the smell from the oil is just nasty. After all the hard work I wasn't able to really see any results, can you give me some pointers on how to apply Leatherique correctly?
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Old 12-13-2005, 01:33 AM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xens
Oh another thing, I've bought the complete kit of Leatherique a couple of months ago, but for some reason I can't quite seem to figure how to use them properly. I mean the oil never seem to really soak into the leather, I waited forever for them to soak in but they never did so I had to wipe them off, and the smell from the oil is just nasty. After all the hard work I wasn't able to really see any results, can you give me some pointers on how to apply Leatherique correctly?
I think the best way it to apply it with you bear hands so put Leatherique on you hand and rub it in but I would wait for Greg’s comment
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:17 AM   #372
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Really hard to say without seeing the wheel or knowing more about the wheel. I think you would be better off contacting a representative from the wheel company. IMO touch up work can often make an area look worse when done poorly. Contact them to see if you can do it and then look in to what the best methods are to achieve optimal results.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Quote:
Originally Posted by q0192837465
Hi, this is my first question. I just got some Authentic ACS type III wheels and there are quite a number of chips on it. I'm wondering if you know I can use the touch-up paint method on them. Sorry but I have no idea what kind of finish it has or what kind of silver it is.

Thanks
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:17 AM   #373
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Here is my Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean directions for application:

First I vacuum the seats and shake both bottles well to get a proper mixture. Then pour a generous amount (Leatherique suggest 4oz per seat) of the Rejuvenator in your hand and massage it in to the seat like Lucas suggested. Applying it by hand has two benefits. Your hands will warm the product/seat combined with medium to firm pressure will allow the product to penetrate deeper in to the surface. This next step is really important, for best results back the car into a sunny area with the windows rolled up (Tip: you might want to wait before applying the product to the driver seat until you have moved the car into the sunny area). Let the car sit in the direct sun to create a sauna like effect. The increased temperature insdie the car will help open the pores of the leather and allow the product to work even deeper into the leather. If there is no place you can put your car in direct sunlight you can turn on your heated seats as well. Let the product sit in the sun all day if possible. After you have let the product sit long enought I directly apply the Prestine Clean on top of the Rejuvenator, that should be absorbed into the seat by now, with the supplied terry cloth applicator pad. With medium pressure I thoroughly work the product into the seat. Let it sit for about 15 - 20 minutes. Then with a damp microfiber towel I wipe the seats down using medium to light pressure. This step helps remove some of the contamination that has risen to the surface. Follow up the damp microfiber towel with a dry towel right after to remove any remaining moisture.

This whole process should leave your leather looking and feeling new again. I've restored many seats this way and lightened the leather several shades. If you need any clarification or have other questions let me know.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xens
Oh another thing, I've bought the complete kit of Leatherique a couple of months ago, but for some reason I can't quite seem to figure how to use them properly. I mean the oil never seem to really soak into the leather, I waited forever for them to soak in but they never did so I had to wipe them off, and the smell from the oil is just nasty. After all the hard work I wasn't able to really see any results, can you give me some pointers on how to apply Leatherique correctly?
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Old 12-14-2005, 03:03 AM   #374
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Thanks for answering all of my questions Greg!

Just finished at midnight, results:






1x Klasse AIO + 2x Klasse HGSG + 2x P21s Carnauba Wax

The Klasse HGSG was pretty annoying to remove even after sitting for nearly 24 hours, that was the most tiring part.

Gotta go, desperately need sleep........
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Old 12-14-2005, 09:05 AM   #375
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Thanks for posting the pictures, the car looks amazing! The gloss is really nice and I like the reflections from the hood. It looks super slick and probably good enough to eat off, although we won't try.

Congrats again on the nice work!

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Old 12-14-2005, 12:13 PM   #376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
Thanks for posting the pictures, the car looks amazing! The gloss is really nice and I like the reflections from the hood. It looks super slick and probably good enough to eat off, although we won't try.

Congrats again on the nice work!

Greg @ Detailed Image
LOL speaking of which, I placed the microfiber towel on the hood after finishing to strech and yawn. When I turned around I was like "What the heck?! Where did my towel go?" It ended up slipping right off the hood onto the ground.

I'll take better pics when I have time, thanks again Greg!!!
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Old 12-14-2005, 03:43 PM   #377
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Smile Brushless Drive-thru or Not

DI - I've been using the brushless drive-thru to wash my car. Are their any downsides to doing this?

P.S. The minimal squirl marks that I have are likely attributed to the wrong drying towels used some time ago.

Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2005, 04:08 PM   #378
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My biggest fear with them is if they add swirls marks or other scratches. This is something that has been fiercely debated and to be honest I'm not sure I can give you a clear answer. First off, It depends on how much water pressure is used. With enough water pressure you can loosen debris from the paint but after it is loosened the water pressure is blasting the debris across the surface of your car. Therefore with enough pressure I do believe that you can have damage from going through a touch free wash. However many touch free washes don't use that much pressure anymore that I think your vehicle is at a serious risk (atleast the ones around me). If your doing the pressure washing yourself be careful because you generally can get a lot pressure from the sprayer and can potential do damage. Damage from pressure washers is also prone around loose trim pieces and other areas besides the paint. With all this being said I do go through the touch free at times like today when the temperature is around 0 degrees. I haven't noticed any problems yet but I do wonder if any is being done that I don't catch.

Other problems is that I still have to dry the vehicle after. It also doesn't remove as much surface contamination as a hand wash will. I never get the deluxe wash that uses spray on wax, that stuff is no good. I will get the highest level of care that uses soap and water only.

Ways to prevent a pressure washer from causing damage when operating yourself is to hold the washer at an angle so the spray doens't directly hit the vehicle. Also don't use excessive pressure or stand overly close to the vehicle. Apply a good sealant to the paint when possible because sealants are more resistent to abrasions and other markings compared to a regular wax. Reduce times in between cleanings or to make more of an effor to keep the vehicle clean. The cleaner the vehicle when washing, the less likely contamination will aid in adding swirls by getting lodged in a washing mitt/sponge. Use a nice clean towel to dry with every time, I highly recommend a microfiber waffle weave drying towel. Dont' use this towel to clean door jambs and other areas where it will accumulate more contamination. I use two waffle weave towels to dry the paint and the paint only. Wheels, door jambs, and othe areas get wiped down with other microfiber towels.

Sorry this got a little off topic, but hope the post was helpful.

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Old 12-14-2005, 08:34 PM   #379
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DI - Thanks again for all your helpful insight. Good point about using a separate towel for the door jams.
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:01 AM   #380
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Hi I was just wondering what you think of Car Dusters its just I use my M3 for weekend use and in a week the car can get very dusty. And I have to rewash it before I use it and it would be nice if I could safely remove the dust in a shorter amount of time. Thanks Lucas
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