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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 01-06-2006, 06:16 PM   #401
benzfreak
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What do you tink about Mr. Clean auto dry and can I use one of your reccomended car wash soaps in it instead?
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Old 01-07-2006, 11:10 AM   #402
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I've heard some positive reviews and more often negative reviews of the product. Some people liked it while others were calling it a POS on some of the forums I've talked to people on. Maybe someone on here can give you some more personal insight from their experience. I've never actually used it and I won't be purchasing one, so I can't give you more personal in depth information on it. I don't know if you could use one of our shampoos in it instead, I don't know if its been tried.

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Old 01-08-2006, 01:24 AM   #403
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Hi Greg, thanks for all your assistance helping me pick the right group of products. Now for a winter question: What is the minimum recommended temperature for P21s application? I am in the Bay Area where we can get the occassional 60-ish day even in mid-winter. Should I wait for one of those, or will days in the 50's still be ok for application?
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:56 AM   #404
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Convertible top cleaning.

Greg,
Not sure this is the right thread on which to be asking you this, but here goes: what should I use on my black fabric BMW convertible top to remove tree sap? Is it OK to try Simple Green? Many thanks.
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:33 AM   #405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
I've heard some positive reviews and more often negative reviews of the product. Some people liked it while others were calling it a POS on some of the forums I've talked to people on. Maybe someone on here can give you some more personal insight from their experience. I've never actually used it and I won't be purchasing one, so I can't give you more personal in depth information on it. I don't know if you could use one of our shampoos in it instead, I don't know if its been tried.

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It's Ok. I wash down the car like normal but I do use the mist to get the hard water off. That works fairly well. I wouldn't recommend it from start to finish though. I don't use the soap that comes with it either. I use Meguier's Gold or whatever it's called.
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Old 01-08-2006, 01:42 PM   #406
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For application there is no real minimum temperature needed although I would recommend doing it above 40 degrees. The only real problem doing it in very high or low temperatures is removal can be difficult. Application in the 50's should be fine, might be a little harder to remove but should overall still go on and off very fine. Don't leave the product out in the cold for an extended period of time and make sure the product is stored at room temperature.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TamBmr
Hi Greg, thanks for all your assistance helping me pick the right group of products. Now for a winter question: What is the minimum recommended temperature for P21s application? I am in the Bay Area where we can get the occassional 60-ish day even in mid-winter. Should I wait for one of those, or will days in the 50's still be ok for application?
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Old 01-08-2006, 02:29 PM   #407
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Simple Green can be a very strong cleaner, I would not use it on the top unless I was sure it would be okay. Treating the sap depends on the size of the marks and how embedded the sap has become in the fabric or how fresh it is. I think there may be safer options but sap is one of the most difficult things to remove. If there is large drops of the sap you can use a razor to carefully brake up the product without harming the surface. I use this same process to remove gum and candy from carpets. After that I would use a cleaner like the 303 Convertible Top Cleaner. This is a safe and powerful cleaner that should help break up the sap. Spray the area and then take a damp brush and work the sap in multiple directions. This make take several applications.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobtailer
Greg,
Not sure this is the right thread on which to be asking you this, but here goes: what should I use on my black fabric BMW convertible top to remove tree sap? Is it OK to try Simple Green? Many thanks.
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Old 01-08-2006, 06:04 PM   #408
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what do you recommend for a black car? it has swirls and many small scratches on the car, many rock chips on the front bumper and hood from highway miles, and a major claw-like scratch on my hood-- i have no idea where that came from and i am very pissed off about it.

should i get a specific shampoo and claybar specifically for my car depending on its color and condition? or do they all rpetty much do the job? same thing for polishes and waxes, do they all do the same and its all preference or are there diffs??

ive read some of your suggestions and im a little confused and overwhelmed from all the steps.. which polish should i use? are there diff polishes and which should i get? there are polishes and there are compounds what do you suggest i get? should i get a "final polish"?

in one of your suggestions on page 2.. you suggested klasse AIO after polish and finishing polish. do i need AIO? why do you put that molecular jacket then shield and keep repeating the process?

could you give me a list of products you recommend to give my car its first detail job from me at least. i plan on purchasing a PC 7424.. i have no idea where to start in making a list and what brands to go for. i dont want to go super hardcore and buying everything to add more shine. i just need a simple list of the essentials to give my car some depth and shine,

shampoo, clay, polishes, sealant, wax, and other protectants. i need a budget collection of products but something that will definitely put a smile on my face =] thanx.
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:14 PM   #409
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HELP ! Just can't get my polishing bonnets clean.

Greg (and friends)..

I purchased your selection of quick-change polishing bonnets which work great, and although I've tried several of the suggestions listed in earlier posts, I still can't seem to get all the old polish off..

Using the "comb", followed by washing (I actually used a high pressure hose on one), and they are still "sticky"..

So, is there a best-practice that you have used successfully that I can try?

Thanks
ED
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:42 AM   #410
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Black cars are difficult to maintain but when they are detailed right they look so awesome. To make the hood look flawless you'll have to repaint it. It can be made significantly better looking with detailing by reducing and eliminating the swirls and scratches. Here is the process I recommend to give your paint a total restore and a stunning appearance again.

Porter Cable 7424 Kit *e46 exclusive offer* (ends Jan 17th)
-PC 7424
-6" Velcro Backing Plate
-2x White Lake Country Polishing Pads 6.5"
-1x Orange Lake Country Cutting Pad 6.5"
-1x Black Lake Country Finishing Pad 6.5"
-2x Snappy Clean Pad Cleaners
Sale Price $182.50

Washing Bundle
- Poorboy's World Bug Squash 32oz
- Menzerna Auto Shampoo 32oz
- Microfiber Wash Mitt
- Microfiber Waffle Weave 32" x 25"
- Bug n' Tar Block
Regular Price $60.65
Sale Price $44.99
Wash with shampoo and Dry with microfiber
Clear Kote Clay Bar Kit $29.99
Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 applied with Orange pad $12.99
Poorboy's World SSR 1.0 applied with White Polishing pad $12.99
Menzerna Finishing Touch glaze (FTG) applied with white polishing pad $12.99
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) applied with black finishing pad 16oz - $40, 32oz $50
Either: Poorboy's World Natty's Paste Wax Blue $15.99 or P21S Carnauba Wax $31.99 - both are great
I remove these steps by hand with ultra soft microfiber towels
10X Microfiber Towels $21.99 *e46 exclusive offer* (ends Jan 17th)

The Clay bar helps pull out and remove surface contamination. This will make polishing safer and more effective.
The SSRs help remove all the swirls and scratches and essentially clear up the clear coat that can become dull, hazy, etc. This leaves the paint very smooth and bright.
The FTG fills in any remaining imperfections to give the paint a fantastic gloss and uniform apperance.
The FMJ holds the FTG and gives the paint a durable form of protection. IT applies super easy and gives your paint the shine it needs.
The Carnauba Waxes really are the finishing touch to the paint that enhances the depth and gloss. While this step and the FTG are optinal they are what really seperate your car from the rest.

Now to answer some of your more specefic questions:
For shampoo you want to make sure your using a soap rich with conditioners so they won't strip your paint of vital oils. All the shampoos on my site have conditioners and are excellent to wash with.
Clay bar is a very generic product, any clay bar is fine. Just look at the Number of grams to tell if your getting a good value. Local stores will sell 80g bars, we sell all 200g bars.
For polishes, waxes, sealants, etc most of them won't really do anything different for different colored cars but you might like the look of certain products on your paint. The only real difference in the products I sell is the Carnauba Waxes. A lot of the BMW owners like the Poorboy's World Natty's Paste Wax Blue (which is designed for darker colored paints). The P21S Carnauba Wax is exceptional on light colors or mettalic paints. I think the P21S looks amazing on dark colors as well but the PBW Natty's Paste Wax is very close on the darker colors. I guess I'm still undecided which I like better.

As for what polishes to get hopefully that was clarified above. The SSR 2.5 is a medium abrasive polish and you follow that up with the SSR 1.0 which is a very light abrasive polish. These two steps will reduce the swirls and scratches and smooth out the clear coat tremendously. These are very safe and easy to use and produce dramatic results.

I would ignore the page 2 comments because that was answering a very specefic question and is really not applicable to what your looking to do.

I realize I listed a lot of products but that is what I recommend to do the job right. There are some steps you can eliminate but I think overall this process is a great investment of your resources because of how long the buffer and products last as well as the dramatic results that make your Bimmer look amazing. I enjoy getting into a car that looks so sharp and glossy that it look different then all the other similar models because of how deep and glossy the paint looks. I realize it seems like a lot but its well worth it in my opinion. Good luck and let me know what follow up questions you come up with.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6strings
what do you recommend for a black car? it has swirls and many small scratches on the car, many rock chips on the front bumper and hood from highway miles, and a major claw-like scratch on my hood-- i have no idea where that came from and i am very pissed off about it.

should i get a specific shampoo and claybar specifically for my car depending on its color and condition? or do they all rpetty much do the job? same thing for polishes and waxes, do they all do the same and its all preference or are there diffs??

ive read some of your suggestions and im a little confused and overwhelmed from all the steps.. which polish should i use? are there diff polishes and which should i get? there are polishes and there are compounds what do you suggest i get? should i get a "final polish"?

in one of your suggestions on page 2.. you suggested klasse AIO after polish and finishing polish. do i need AIO? why do you put that molecular jacket then shield and keep repeating the process?

could you give me a list of products you recommend to give my car its first detail job from me at least. i plan on purchasing a PC 7424.. i have no idea where to start in making a list and what brands to go for. i dont want to go super hardcore and buying everything to add more shine. i just need a simple list of the essentials to give my car some depth and shine,

shampoo, clay, polishes, sealant, wax, and other protectants. i need a budget collection of products but something that will definitely put a smile on my face =] thanx.
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:47 AM   #411
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Are you referring to the polishing pads we sell from Lake Country or bonnets that go on top of the pads and were purchased elsewhere?

To clean the pads I recommend soaking the pad right after use in a bucket of water with a solution of Snappy Clean pad mixing solution. I leave it in there for about 10 minutes, then pull the pad out massage it to break up more product, rinse it off and put it back in for another 5 - 10 minutes. Then I rinse it out and let them air dry after thoroughly wringing them out. This should get the majority of the product off. If you have tried this process and still are unsuccessful, let me know what your cleaning process is and we'll discuss it further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Quote:
Originally Posted by edco
Greg (and friends)..

I purchased your selection of quick-change polishing bonnets which work great, and although I've tried several of the suggestions listed in earlier posts, I still can't seem to get all the old polish off..

Using the "comb", followed by washing (I actually used a high pressure hose on one), and they are still "sticky"..

So, is there a best-practice that you have used successfully that I can try?

Thanks
ED
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:32 PM   #412
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thanx for all your input. I believe you guys are the best at what you do, you guys really spend soo much time researching and getting the best products from your experience and knowledge and you guys help us out with all our questions with detailed answers and facts about detailing. Ive been around other detail sites and you guys are my number 1.. keep it up =]

are the products and such that you listed what you would probably do on my car? or what you would do for a typical car that needed a detail with some minor swirls, scratches, and such? i just want to know so i could buy the products listed and have use for them every single time i detail.. thanx for all your help.
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:40 AM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6strings
thanx for all your input. I believe you guys are the best at what you do, you guys really spend soo much time researching and getting the best products from your experience and knowledge and you guys help us out with all our questions with detailed answers and facts about detailing. Ive been around other detail sites and you guys are my number 1.. keep it up =]

are the products and such that you listed what you would probably do on my car? or what you would do for a typical car that needed a detail with some minor swirls, scratches, and such? i just want to know so i could buy the products listed and have use for them every single time i detail.. thanx for all your help.

Thanks for the compliments, we appreciate the fact or inisght and information is helpful. We want to build long lasting relationships with our clients and help them get the most out of each detail.

As for your car the process I listed would be a complete overhaul of the paint and really give it an ideal look. You can do less steps if you want but that process is for ideal results. I would say at a bare minimum get the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 and the FMJ. The SSRs applied with the buffer will help clean the clear coat and get rid of the swirls. The FMJ is probably the most necessary step because thats whats going to protect your paint and give it a great shine.

For my detailing routine I will do a full detail 2 - 4 times a year that involves all those steps. Inbetween I will wash it regularly and apply another quick coat of FMJ. One coat of FMJ can be applied with a buffer and removed with microfiber in about 35 - 40 minutes. With this maintenance schedule the products will last you years and are a great investment that will keep your car looking great as well as protected from the harsh elements. The best part is that when your done detailing its fun to get in your car again and you'll love others noticing how great the car looks.

Greg @ Detailed Image
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Old 01-10-2006, 12:53 PM   #414
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hi greg, i have a question. i am in the process of purchasing another car . The car will be ordered so when it arrives it will still have all the adhesive paper on it. SHOULD I TELL THE DEALER TO NOT TAKE IT OFF? AND GO HAVE IT DETAILED MY SELF? WHAT IS RECOMMENDED FOR THE FIRST INITIAL DETAIL OF THE CAR RIGHT AFTER U REMOVE THE STICKY PAPERS? is claybarin necessary because of overspray?
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:38 PM   #415
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We've detailed a few cars that have been straight off of the dealership, generally what we do is a thorough wash / dry... we do suggest clay baring primarily because during delivery of the vehicle, especially if it was via train, there can be rail dust which can be difficult to remove. Look over the vehicle and assess the paint when you take delivery. After a good clay bar we suggest putting on a good sealant, like Menzerna FMJ or Klasse AIO / HGSG. If you really feel into it, top that with a carnauba wax such as P21s or Natty's Paste Wax.

That will be a great base on a new vehicle.

As far as interior goes, we strongly suggest using 303 Aerospace Protectant for your dash and consol area. It will provide a matte finish with UV protection. Leather should be fine for a few months

You can also protect the carpets and mats with 303 High Tech Fabric Guard.

As far as wheels are concerned, we put on 2 coats of Poorboy's Wheel Sealant, then dress it with some Bold 'n Bright.

That should do it, let us know if you have any questions regarding any of the suggestions we made.

George
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Old 01-10-2006, 06:32 PM   #416
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so no need to polish it right? just wash clay sealant and wax? NO NEED TO condition the leather?
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:26 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MandysM3
so no need to polish it right? just wash clay sealant and wax? NO NEED TO condition the leather?
Correct, unless there are imperfections in the paint when you get the vehicle (swirls etc.) then there is no need to polish. Generally the imperfections on new cars come when the dealer preps ("details") the vehicles.

Leather you can condition in about 2-3 months, no need right away. I guess it would ultimately depend on the build date and how long the vehicle has been sitting around though, but in most cases it should be fine for a while.

Let me know if there's anything else we can do for you.

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Old 01-11-2006, 12:30 AM   #418
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Greg, I really like what youre doing here im sure everybody appreciates it! I just have two quick questions- First, i live in arizona and drive a black car. Obviously it doesnt stay clean long after i wash it. What do you recommend for something i could just quickly put onto the outside when i bring it back from the carwash that help it keep its luster or maybe make it shine even more?? Second, i have a light-colored leather interior and i was wondering what sorts of easy-application leather products you would recommend to keep the leather looking new.

Thanks a lot,
Adham
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Old 01-11-2006, 03:49 AM   #419
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so does the leather get conditioned from the factory
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Old 01-11-2006, 08:15 AM   #420
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Adham,

A great idea especially for Arizona heat / weather would be to pick up Menzerna FMJ along with Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield.

Basically apply the FMJ as your sealant giving you your underlying protection anywheres from 2-6 times a year. Then as you wash the car, use the High Gloss Acrylic Shield right after it (it acts as a quick detailer + added protection + add gloss and depth). It's a spray wax, but works in combination with Menzerna FMJ.

The other option would be to hand apply a carnauba wax weekly / bi-weekly to help enhance the gloss and depth as well as add a little more protection.

On a newer vehicle the leather should be pretty good to begin with, I'd say treat the seats with Leatherique Prestine Clean every 2 - 3 months then all you should need to do for maintenance is just wipe it down w/ a damp microfiber towel.

Let me know if there is anything else we can do for you.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

Quote:
Originally Posted by adham
Greg, I really like what youre doing here im sure everybody appreciates it! I just have two quick questions- First, i live in arizona and drive a black car. Obviously it doesnt stay clean long after i wash it. What do you recommend for something i could just quickly put onto the outside when i bring it back from the carwash that help it keep its luster or maybe make it shine even more?? Second, i have a light-colored leather interior and i was wondering what sorts of easy-application leather products you would recommend to keep the leather looking new.

Thanks a lot,
Adham
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