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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 05-06-2006, 09:52 AM   #861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerchop
Also, when working in the 2'x2' area with the PC, how long would it take for me to complete that area following the left to right, up and down, while overlapping each time by 50% procedure you posted?

TIA
Using the AIO you want to spend some more time working it into the paint since it is a chemical polish. Move at a rate of 1 - 2" per second, this puts you around 2-3 minutes per area. Work the buffer at speed 5 or 6. The HGSG you can work faster since you are just looking for even coverage and not generating heat. I usually use a speed of 3.5 or 4 for sealants.

Not sure what to tell you about measuring it out. Maybe run to the local dollar store, they generally have small dispenser bottles for sale around beauty supplies usually. It's tough to monitor how much with the Klasse bottles since the opening is about 3x the size of the opening on the dispenser bottle. I'm sure you'd use the same ring around the outside of the pad, but it would be a lot thinner with the smaller opening.

Keep spreading it, it works pretty far.

Hope this helps.

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Old 05-06-2006, 11:34 PM   #862
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^^Thanks, that helped a lot. But god damn it that SG was a b!tch to take off.
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Old 05-08-2006, 09:51 AM   #863
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I will eventually do my own detailing..but for today I need to take my 330ci in and get it done (time restrictions). What should a reputable company charge>? The deal I saw was 99.00 for exterior and interior as well as engine. I would like to get the interior showroom as it does look very nice now, and the exterior tar behind the wheel and the microswirles need to be addressed. The paint is in excellent condition as the previous owner washed weekly and detailed 2x a year, so I would like to get it to the factory condition(almost looks it now).

I have gone over all of your lists in the beginning of this post regarding what questions need to be asked on what their processes are.

Also do you have good window cleaning products or what would you suggest.

Thanks
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Old 05-08-2006, 10:34 AM   #864
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The quality of each detailer's work will vary tremendously based upon the products they use, techniques and effort. The $99 seems a little bit low priced, we are more of a high end detailing service and we would charge $250 for a base interior/exterior with engine. In general you get what you pay for, however each service will vary a lot in price and quality. Our service wouldn't reduce swirls, the sealant/wax would temporarily hide it but not fix it. To permanently reduce and elminate the swirls you would have to get our polishing package as well.

For windows I really like the Stoners Invisible Glass, foam based cleaner, streak free shine.

Glass Science Rain Clear Kit - Glass Scrub - deep cleans glass, removes contaminates from pores, mineral deposits, acid rain, etc.
Rain Clear Gel - seals pores and forces moisture to bead up very fine and roll off the windshield, like Rain-X but better in my opinion.

Both are only $5.99 and are great additions to any detailing arsenal.

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Old 05-09-2006, 02:11 PM   #865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
The polishes I would recommend you use to get those marks out permantently would be the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0. The SSR 2.5 should remove the majority of the mineral deposits no problem. Then the SSR 1.0 will restore the surface gloss and make the paint really shine.

For more protection than just a regular wax, try layering sealants. My favorite sealant is probably the Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) because of how well balanced it is. Strong protection, great shine, very slick, super easy application/removal. The only product that is probably more durable is the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (HGSG). The only problem with this product is that it should sit for atleast 8 - 12 hours and even better is 12 - 24 hours and harder to remove. But really both are great.

Greg @ Detailed Image


What about the P21S Paintwork Cleanser ?Wouldnt that also take care of the water spots?The word "abrasive" under "SSR 2.5" desc scares me .Not if SSR 2.5 or P21S would solve my problem (Sprinkler water spots)
Someone was also recommending Dawn Liquid Diswashing soap on this post.Also saw on zaino the same recommendation.

Need ur advice !!!

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P21s Paintwork Cleanser still has micro abrasives, just much less than the SSR 2.5. Virtually any polish designed to remove swirls are going to have abrasives of some sort otherwise they would not remove scratches and swirls or imperfections such as your water spots.

Think of your water spot as a valley etched in your clear coat, what the small abrasives will be doing is evening out that valley so it is uniform enough to not be caught by the eye, or if you keep polishing it until it is gone.

If the water mark is just due to minerals you can try a 50/50 water / vinegar mix, but if its etched you will need an abrasive polish.

Hope this helps clarify things.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image
Over the weekend I washed the car with Dawn Dishwashing soap and then used their claybar to get rid of the water spots.Didn't work.
Should I try the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 to see if that will help
Or do I need a stronger product ?

Does anyone know a detailor in Orlando FL area that I can go to ?Money at this point is not a problem.I just want the shine back for my new car.

Beside the water spots I have swirl marks too on hood and trunk so I talked this guy at Body shop that do a lot of Beemers and as per him he can try buffing to see if that can reduce the swirls marks.

Wouldnt buffing take care of the water spots too?
When they buff do they strip off part of the clear coat ?
Is the clear coat re-applied ?
Just need to know my options before I take it to the body shop.
And by the way thanks for all the info that you guys are putting in on this thread.
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Old 05-09-2006, 07:17 PM   #866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
The quality of each detailer's work will vary tremendously based upon the products they use, techniques and effort. The $99 seems a little bit low priced, we are more of a high end detailing service and we would charge $250 for a base interior/exterior with engine. In general you get what you pay for, however each service will vary a lot in price and quality. Our service wouldn't reduce swirls, the sealant/wax would temporarily hide it but not fix it. To permanently reduce and elminate the swirls you would have to get our polishing package as well.

For windows I really like the Stoners Invisible Glass, foam based cleaner, streak free shine.

Glass Science Rain Clear Kit - Glass Scrub - deep cleans glass, removes contaminates from pores, mineral deposits, acid rain, etc.
Rain Clear Gel - seals pores and forces moisture to bead up very fine and roll off the windshield, like Rain-X but better in my opinion.

Both are only $5.99 and are great additions to any detailing arsenal.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Thanks Greg. I will take that into account. I would like to do it myself now, I just do not have the time and effort. I will pick up some of that glass cleaner and some 303 for the engine in a day or so.
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Old 05-10-2006, 09:35 AM   #867
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Hi, after reading your articles, I finally begin to understand detailing, thanks a lot. Is there really a big difference in clay quality? if yes, which one is the best?

But I still have several questions. polish and glaze. which one should I use if I want to REMOVE the swirl mark and some scratchs?

These two photos, should I polish and wax these red spots? And on the other image, should I polish and wax those trims(the white dots)? thanks



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Old 05-10-2006, 10:35 AM   #868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florida90
Over the weekend I washed the car with Dawn Dishwashing soap and then used their claybar to get rid of the water spots.Didn't work.
Should I try the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 to see if that will help
Or do I need a stronger product ?

Does anyone know a detailor in Orlando FL area that I can go to ?Money at this point is not a problem.I just want the shine back for my new car.

Beside the water spots I have swirl marks too on hood and trunk so I talked this guy at Body shop that do a lot of Beemers and as per him he can try buffing to see if that can reduce the swirls marks.

Wouldnt buffing take care of the water spots too?
When they buff do they strip off part of the clear coat ?
Is the clear coat re-applied ?
Just need to know my options before I take it to the body shop.
And by the way thanks for all the info that you guys are putting in on this thread.
The clay really would only remove light surface marks and contamination. Generally we would use a two step polish system to remove the water marks and swirls permanently. A three step process might be needed if you want it closer to perfection. The Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 is a great combination to accomplish this or the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II. Both are really great at bringing back that deep shine and remove imperfections. WIth the help of the PC and the products mentioned above and some help from Detailed Image, you can have near professional results. I'd be happy to take you through this process and help you learn how to do this yourself. Its much easier than most people think and the results are fantastic.

Buffing will remove a micro thin layer of the clear coat but not nearly enough to harm the clear coat. You would have to use lots of abrasive polishes for years and years to have any concerns. So, no the clear coat doesn't need to be reapplied.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveme
Thanks Greg. I will take that into account. I would like to do it myself now, I just do not have the time and effort. I will pick up some of that glass cleaner and some 303 for the engine in a day or so.
Excellent, both products are fantastic and really produce great results. A big part of detailing is just understanding what the right products are for each job. Now that you know the right tools you can get the results your looking for. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with and I look forward to sending you an order.

FYI: All the products are in stock and ready to ship out the same day as you order as long as its before 4pm EST. Thank you for your support of Detailed Image!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmers
Hi, after reading your articles, I finally begin to understand detailing, thanks a lot. Is there really a big difference in clay quality? if yes, which one is the best?

But I still have several questions. polish and glaze. which one should I use if I want to REMOVE the swirl mark and some scratchs?

These two photos, should I polish and wax these red spots? And on the other image, should I polish and wax those trims(the white dots)? thanks
I'm happy to hear that the posts have really helped you. There isn't really a huge difference in clay quality between manufacturers, its actually rather generic. One big difference is usually just the size of the bar, local stores usually carry 80g bars where online stores like DetailedImage.com we only carry 200g bars. We cut our bars in to five pieces so you have five fresh uses from each bar and if you drop the clay you can trash it knowing you still have four more pieces. One other difference I notice between manufacturers is how hard the clay is. For that reason I like the soft clay from Clear Kote clay bar kit, which also comes with a clay lube.

To remove those imperfections for good you will need polishes with abrasives in them. True glazes help fill in imperfections and make them look good but don't fix the problem. I would recommend the same as above Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0 (works good by hand or with buffer) or Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II (works good with the buffer). I can send you information that will teach you how to use the Porter Cable 7424 buffer or the hand applicator kit. Both are good investments and get great results. Please let me know if you want more information about the topics mentioned here.

Thanks for posting everyone!

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Old 05-11-2006, 07:50 AM   #869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Probably go with something like Woolite and a Firm Bristle Upholstery Brush. You can keep a mister of hot water to break up stains to add to the Woolite if its not cutting it.

George @ Detailed Image
Great reading in this post so far - so thanks errybody!

So I have cloth seats (black) and wondered from the quote above whether y'all are referring to the liquid Woolite that is intended for washing clothes ? Or is it something else in the USA - I'm in Ireland and thats the only Woolite I know.

If it IS the same thing, do i just pour a little onto a cloth and apply to seats ? then brush ? then ?

Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2006, 08:56 AM   #870
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Wondered from the quote above whether y'all are referring to the liquid Woolite that is intended for washing clothes ? Or is it something else in the USA - I'm in Ireland and thats the only Woolite I know.
If it IS the same thing, do i just pour a little onto a cloth and apply to seats ? then brush ? then ?
Thanks.
Dirty Black,

In the states they have a pre-dilluted spray bottle to spot treat stains around the house, I was not referring to the laundry detergent. The detergent would be way more concentrated than the pre-dilluted spray bottle. Look around for a similar product that is ready to use.

Other than that, same techniques would apply.

Sincerely,

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Old 05-11-2006, 09:33 AM   #871
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Thanks for clarifying that George...

I've already used meguiars upholstery cleaner on the seats, and while the overall finish of the seats has improved, it seems to have highlighted old stains. Any suggestions on a good brand I may be able to obtain in UK or IRL ? Or any secrets you can share ?

I've heard of ppl using clothes steamers ??
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Old 05-11-2006, 11:08 AM   #872
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I'll be at it for a copule hours, so hopefully you'll respond before I get done.

After I'm done claying the car, do I need to wash it again? Here's my normal routine for claying:
Wash with mild dish soap to strip any wax left on the car
Dry
Clay
Wash with normal car soap
Dry
Wax

Is the 2nd wash necessary?
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Old 05-11-2006, 11:25 AM   #873
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It really depends on how well you clean up the clay lubricant. If there is still residue remaining, it might not hurt to do a quick wash afterwards. If you are careful and remove any of the clay lube on the paint, you can jump right to waxing.

Personally if you are washing / claying / waxing, I'd rewash after claying. If you plan on polishing before waxing, then you can typically skip the re-wash.

Hope this makes sense.

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Old 05-11-2006, 11:28 AM   #874
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Or any secrets you can share ?
Tough to say, if you've tried those methods I don't know if another product will help too much. You don't want to use to aggressive of a cleaner as it could potentially discolor your seat. We typically use a high powered carpet extractor which essentially will shampoo, steam and vacuum all in one step. You could try to visit a local detailing shop that has a carpet extractor and see if they'd let you use it or how much they would charge to just extract your seat.

Sincerely,

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Old 05-11-2006, 12:42 PM   #875
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Greg,

I'm gonna be making another purchase from you guys pretty soon. Can you PM me your personal email address again, I seem to have misplaced it since we last exchanged emails. Wanted to go over some other stuff via email as well. Thanks!

Jared
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Old 05-11-2006, 02:13 PM   #876
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Hey Jared good to hear from you again. You can contact me at greg@detailedimage.com, private message on here or any e-mail sent to ...@detailedimage.com directed to me will come to my attention. Look forward to hearing from you.

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Old 05-11-2006, 08:56 PM   #877
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How's this order look...am i missing anything....not doing a show or anything...just want great protection and to look great

Klasse All-In-One 500ml

Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket Paint Sealant Kit aka FMJ 16oz

P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo 500ml

Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax 8oz
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:15 PM   #878
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I am currently using the FMJ, and def recommend it. I was previously using the PB nattys, but just purchased the P21S last week. I would deffinatley recommend to use the P21S over the PB's. It went on and came off easier and also gave me better results as far as gloss and depth.
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Old 05-12-2006, 10:38 AM   #879
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How's this order look...am i missing anything....not doing a show or anything...just want great protection and to look great

Klasse All-In-One 500ml

Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket Paint Sealant Kit aka FMJ 16oz

P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo 500ml

Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax 8oz
The list lookd pretty good, the Klasse is great at cleaning your paint and leaving a great shine with some protection. The FMJ will give you a deep shine, great relection, strong protection, slick feel and appearance. I would recommend the 32oz FMJ as well, its a much better value. Both of these products are super easy to apply and remove and you don't need much product to do a coat (somwehere around 1oz per coat).

The regular Natty's is good but if you have darker colored paint I would get the Natty's Blue. If you have light colored paint the P21S Carnauba Wax is awesome and does apply easier as terpfanatic recommended.

The P21S Shampoo is one of my favorites but you have to put in more product to get a proper lather. A better value IMO is the Poorboy's World Super Slick and Suds or Menzerna Auto Shampoo (both 32oz and $14.99).

I think with these slight changes to your order you'll be having some stunning results from your detailing. Let me know if you have other questions or need any of this info clarified.

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Old 05-12-2006, 10:41 AM   #880
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Greg,

Just sent you an email. Getting ready to do an engine detail
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