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Old 07-14-2005, 12:47 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
They are both excellent products, I'll stand by either one... It depends on the condition of the paint IMO... The Poorboy's is a tad more aggressive than the Menzerna and works better if your applying it by hand. One newer paint that is still in good condition that needs some minor fixing with a buffer I prefer the Menzerna. Menzerna polishes were designed to work with buffers.

You won't go wrong with either brands but I feel each one has its place.

If you can take pics of the condition of the paint I'll give you a better conclusion.

George
I'll be sure to take pics when the sun comes out. Thanks bro, really appreciate it.
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Old 07-14-2005, 01:07 AM   #82
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Quick question

What is the best bang for the buck swirl remover?

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Old 07-14-2005, 01:15 AM   #83
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"Full Molecular Jacket 16oz + P21s Concour Carnauba Wax 6.2oz Jar - $60"

I dont see that on the page yet, but that sounds perfect! ill deffinatly add that.

anywho my particular car is pretty old, it just past its 5th b-day so im thinking perhaps the poorboy's would be better for me.

perhaps you can offer two variations of "Package 2" one with the the Menzerna 2 step process + FTG and one with the poorboys 2.5/1.0 + FTG....I say this becuase it seems alot of people seem to stay loyal to the Poorboys World name, seems it should be an option if they are on the same level.

i duno, just thinking outloud, its great seeing all these products in a pakage like this.


last question (for tonight anyways) are the pads your going to include with 7424 bundle going to be the Lake Country velco with the constant pressure layer?
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Old 07-14-2005, 06:46 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drg
Quick question

What is the best bang for the buck swirl remover?

Dollar for dollar, my vote would have to go to Poorboy's SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 combo. Either our homepage special with 2 microfiber apps and 2 microfiber towels or our new group rate bundle with the SSR 2.5, SSR 1, and Menzerna FTG. I added it due to popular request

Quote:
Originally Posted by PriMoPyRo
"Full Molecular Jacket 16oz + P21s Concour Carnauba Wax 6.2oz Jar - $60"

I dont see that on the page yet, but that sounds perfect! ill deffinatly add that.

perhaps you can offer two variations of "Package 2" one with the the Menzerna 2 step process + FTG and one with the poorboys 2.5/1.0 + FTG....I say this becuase it seems alot of people seem to stay loyal to the Poorboys World name, seems it should be an option if they are on the same level.

i duno, just thinking outloud, its great seeing all these products in a pakage like this.
Check the third post in our Group Rate Thread Trying to get a moderator to combine them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PriMoPyRo
last question (for tonight anyways) are the pads your going to include with 7424 bundle going to be the Lake Country velco with the constant pressure layer?
I know the cutting pads and the finishing pads are variable contact, I'll have to double check on the polishing pads though! I'll get back to you.

George
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Old 07-14-2005, 11:39 AM   #85
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Props!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Here's a pic of a red car that we did those steps too... look at the depth and the perfect reflection of the car in the passanger rear door. This is on a day with overcast too, no good sunlight

George,
I am still going through all of this thread so as soon as I am done, I will ask my unanswered questions. One thing I would like to note though, regarding above comment, overcast days are better for photographing cars and people as you have a natural difuser to the available light as opposed to a direct light source, therefore providing better and more even light distribution. SOOO.. no sad faces about cloudy days.. Thank you for all the WONDERFUL insight.. more props to come.

KM
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Old 07-14-2005, 01:10 PM   #86
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Cleaning product for CONVERTIBLE ROOFS

On an E46 Convertible, what product do you recommend for the convertible fabric roof? After some research, I've found out you need to first wash then condition the roof. What product/s do you recommend for this and what kind of applicator?

Any tips on how to clean the roof? IN the past I've just used plain water and sponge but it's time I cleaned it properly.

Thank you.
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Old 07-14-2005, 03:08 PM   #87
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Well, I'm going to finally bust out the PC and get the swirls off the car. I have a layer of AIO and a couple coats of SG (put on about 3-4 months ago) and a couple of layers of #26 on there as well. I want to strip all of these products off so I can have a nice clean surface to work with. Do I need to dawn my car to strip all of those products off or will claying be enough to strip all of those? If I need dawn, is there anything else I can use instead of dawn? I'm just a little freaked out about using dish wash soap for my car. Thanks.
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Old 07-14-2005, 03:32 PM   #88
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Old already filled chips

George,
Thank you for the abundance of WONDEFUL information, just for the service alone I am going to be heading over to the website and checking everything out after I get paid tomorrow. While I currently use Zymol, the "Detail" for plactics, the blue hard wax (forget the name), as well as many other things I would like to get everything going "right" and do a claying in the near future on my '99 Techno Violet. I have several questions for you.

1.I have several chips that have already been sloppily filled, I am not sure how long ago. I have the blob, and while it is not too bad, it DOES bother me being that I am a perfectionist. Would a wet-sand of the area as per you prior instructions as well as the subsequent instruction be all that is needed to make these spots more appealing?

2.I think the 4" scratch above my fuel door I can handle with your instructions, it is not to metal, not rusted, and while I think it goes below clear, cleaning filling and then the rest of the procedure. Any special advice?

3. Any tips for rejuvinating the black moulding, the black air dam lip, and the likes?

Thank you in advance, I have THOROUGHLY enjoyed reading this thread.

KM
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Old 07-14-2005, 07:43 PM   #89
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scratch on leather

Hi, this is a fantastic thread. I have these scratches from my sisters diamond studded pants on my passengers right bolster. To my knowledge, the seat is leather but there is some debate of seating sufaces on another thread.

how can I touch this up?
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Old 07-14-2005, 07:46 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang1
On an E46 Convertible, what product do you recommend for the convertible fabric roof? After some research, I've found out you need to first wash then condition the roof. What product/s do you recommend for this and what kind of applicator?

Any tips on how to clean the roof? IN the past I've just used plain water and sponge but it's time I cleaned it properly.

Thank you.
Hey mustang1,

I'm going to pull this off of our how-to section from my site and if you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask!

Proper care for your convertible soft top takes some time and effort, but is worth it in the long run. You can extend the life of your soft top, prevent leaks, increase resale value, and keep it looking like you drove it off of the lot the very first day with a little bit of care for your vehicle. The first step in treating your convertible is to determine what material your soft top is made of: Canvas (fabric) or Vinyl.

Product Checklist:
- Automotive Shampoo (non-oil based)
- Soft Bristle Brush
- Convertible Top Cleaner (Vinyl or Canvas)
- Newspaper, Garbage Bags, etc.
- Waffle Weave Microfiber Towel
- Convertible Top Protectant (Vinyl or Canvas)
- Masking Tape

Convertible Top Cleaning:
1. Spray down top w/ steady stream of water
2. Shampoo top using an automotive shampoo that is non-detergent based and does not contain oils
3. Use a soft bristled upholstery brush to loosen particles embedded in vinyl or canvas. Do NOT scrub the rear window as it may scratch the surface
4. Rinse off the top and blot dry with a waffle weave microfiber towel
5. Use a soft top specific cleaner to remove any additional stains
6. Rinse with steady stream of water
7. Blot dry with microfiber towel. Do NOT wipe

Protecting Canvas Tops
1. Start with the Convertible Top Cleaning step for a fresh surface
2. Protect your paint and windows first by covering them with items such as newspaper, garbage bag, etc. and masking tape
3. Shake cleaner vigorously to ensure proper product distribution
4. Starting from the center and working out to the masked off edges apply a light coat onto the canvas top holding can approximately 6 8
5. Let the product sit for X* amount of time before applying 2nd coat
(*check product specifications on bottle, if nothing specified let product sit for a half hour)
6. Repeat steps 4 - 6 for a second coat paying special attention to the seams and creases
7. Remove protective masking

We offer two primary brands (303 and Renovo) when it comes to convertible top cleaning and for what its worth I've found their cleaners to be about the same, but I personally like the Renovo as the proofer over 303's Fabric Guard.

Here is a link to our canvas convertible top cleaning items:

Click to view Canvas Top Cleaning

Hope that helps!

George
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Old 07-14-2005, 07:49 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3_POWER
Well, I'm going to finally bust out the PC and get the swirls off the car. I have a layer of AIO and a couple coats of SG (put on about 3-4 months ago) and a couple of layers of #26 on there as well. I want to strip all of these products off so I can have a nice clean surface to work with. Do I need to dawn my car to strip all of those products off or will claying be enough to strip all of those? If I need dawn, is there anything else I can use instead of dawn? I'm just a little freaked out about using dish wash soap for my car. Thanks.
Dawn will definately strip any wax you previously have on your paint. It will not be harmful as long as you follow up with the proper steps (polish, sealant, etc.). The thing is... when you polish you strip off any protective characteristics you may have to begin with, so you can just use a regular automotive wash and leave the dawn to your dishes

George
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Old 07-14-2005, 08:06 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999 TV Dinan M
George,
1.I have several chips that have already been sloppily filled, I am not sure how long ago. I have the blob, and while it is not too bad, it DOES bother me being that I am a perfectionist. Would a wet-sand of the area as per you prior instructions as well as the subsequent instruction be all that is needed to make these spots more appealing?
Yes this would be the proper steps to take to if you are aiming for perfection It may need another coat though depending on how the previous job was but still it would follow the same steps as posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999 TV Dinan M
2.I think the 4" scratch above my fuel door I can handle with your instructions, it is not to metal, not rusted, and while I think it goes below clear, cleaning filling and then the rest of the procedure. Any special advice?
Nope same advice as above. The step by step process is pretty thorough that's posted above but if you run into any questions while doing it we're just a phone call away if you need instant help. (518) 429-8435 ... we're still trying to come up w/ a clever 800 # hehe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999 TV Dinan M
3. Any tips for rejuvinating the black moulding, the black air dam lip, and the likes?
There are products out there that can restore life back to black trim. The problem is many of the fixes out there are temporary, even the dyes that say they are permanant tend to fade or wash away. Poorboy's makes a nice Trim Restorer and for black vinyl and rubber we really like Leatherique "Original" Rubber Black as a somewhat longer fix. The dye needs time to cure and multiple coats work best.

Thanks for the compliments about the thread, I hope you have time to follow up on your experiences and let us know how everything works out for you. Thanks for the comments on the photos as well, you are right. I am not a photo expert by any means, however I feel the shade/overcast does take away from some of the color depth and some of the wow effect you get when its bright out.

Sincerely,

George
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Old 07-15-2005, 08:40 AM   #93
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bump for an awesome post
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:25 AM   #94
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Wax on Sealant

Is it recommended to put wax on sealent? i.e. carnuaba wax on top of several coats of zainos
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Old 07-15-2005, 10:52 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmsport
Is it recommended to put wax on sealent? i.e. carnuaba wax on top of several coats of zainos
Yes for optimal look and protection you would layer your sealant after a glaze or polish... then for even more depth and gloss a carnauba wax on top of the sealant.

In a nutshell the following process is ideal:

Wash --> Clay --> Wash --> Abrasive Polish or Compound (if needed) --> Finishing Polish --> Glaze --> Sealant --> Carnauba Wax

There is no real benefit to putting a non-carnauba wax on top of the polymer sealants as there will be no added gloss or depth and no added protection. So Carnauba Wax is the true topper wax that goes on last!

Sincerely,

George Dushensky
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Old 07-15-2005, 12:38 PM   #96
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Okay....time for me to ask some questions

Just bought my car in May (JET BLACK), and at first too lazy to wash my own car. At my office building, have a mobile car wash service that comes every friday to wash cars.....bad choice. So I will stop doing that. I have not waxed me car since it has come from the dealership. I have the full set of Menzerna and a PC with all the pads.

Should I use the Final Polish II on my new car, or should I go straight to glaze then sealant?

I was thinking, since this is my first time waxing my car since coming from the stealership, I should use all four products on my car!

All Menzerna:
1) Auto Shampoo
2) Final Polish II - to get the old wax off. PC - White Pad
3) Finishing Touch Glaze. PC - Black Pad
4) FMJ. PC - Red Pad

Do you recommend polishing a car which is pretty much brand new? I got some swirling already and want to minimize future damages. Or should I just skip to 3 and 4?

Also.....should I add a final wax after the FMJ? Seems like i am going to be tired after the FP II =)

Let me know what you guys think!
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:00 PM   #97
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CSUNFLIP,
I'm in the exact same boat. 6 month old Orient Blue 325i. It has minor swirl which I can't stand on such a beautful color. I have the same product but have added the p21 wax.

George:
I have the same questions, but I also need help on which pad/applicator to use. My thought is wash, clay, polish, glaze, seal, wax. Type of pad/applicator don't know.

Jez, I just saw the 7424 and applicator deal. This is going to cost me.

Last edited by rnitti; 07-15-2005 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:43 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csunflip
Should I use the Final Polish II on my new car, or should I go straight to glaze then sealant?

Do you recommend polishing a car which is pretty much brand new? I got some swirling already and want to minimize future damages. Or should I just skip to 3 and 4?
I think you answered your own question there Starting right out and attacking the swirls is your best bet, if you don't they only have the chance to get deeper and deeper and thus harder to get out! Polishing with Final Polish II is an extremely fine abrasive and you should not worry if your car is new. Keeping it perfect now will only save you time in the long run so go right ahead and put a coat on

Quote:
Originally Posted by csunflip
Also.....should I add a final wax after the FMJ? Seems like i am going to be tired after the FP II =)

Let me know what you guys think!
Only thing you should consider topping it with is a coat of Carnauba. This is if you are going for the absolute maximum gloss and reflection. Protection wise it will not even come close to the protection the FMJ will give you (and by the way that is my absolute favorite sealant out right now! Great choice ) So basically if you want to go the extra mile, that's the last step which is just as easy to put on and off as the FMJ so it doesn't take too long.

I think you'll have to take some pics of your hard work! I absolutely love the finish that comes off of the vehicles that we use Menzerna on.

Sincerely,

George Dushensky
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:46 PM   #99
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Hey George, should I upload pics onto here, or should I send them to you through Aim?
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:53 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnitti
George:
I have the same questions, but I also need help on which pad/applicator to use. My thought is wash, clay, polish, glaze, seal, wax. Type of pad/applicator don't know.

Jez, I just saw the 7424 and applicator deal. This is going to cost me.
One thing I see when people detail their cars is they do not use the proper pad to match the product. If you are cutting with an aggressive polish, such as Poorboy's SSR 2.5 or Menzerna Intensive Polish, make sure you use a cutting pad (Orange for Lake Country Pads). Many times if you use a cutting pad, I like to do a second coat of the same product with a polishing pad (White for Lake Country Pads), to ease into your final polish. For polishes such as Poorboy's SSR1 and Menzerna Final Polish II use the polishing pad. For your glaze, a glaze is ultimately a very fine polish with fillers in it, I would still suggest a polishing pad. When it comes time for your sealants and waxes, like the FMJ, I would suggest using a finishing pad (Black for Lake Country Pads). Lake Country makes inbetween pads such as Blue and Green, but the primary three we use and suggest are the Orange, White and Black. I can however get other ones so don't hesitate to ask!

Sincerely,

George Dushensky
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