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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 07-25-2006, 12:02 AM   #1041
MackN666
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New question for you Greg....maybe you can help me

I just recently polished and waxed my hood. I applied both the polish and wax by hand using terrycloth applicators and buffed the products out using a microfiber towel. My e30's paint was very faded on the hood area before the detail and after the job it looked AWESOME-bright and glossy. However, after 2 days or so i noticed alot of blochiness in the finish...almost like clouds of its orignal faded paint in the finish. Swirl marks also became more prevalent as I observed the finish under direct sunlight. This picture is not accurate. Much of the blochiness in this picture are actually reflections of clouds...i couldnt really capture the finish as well as i wanted to and the pic makes it look worse than it really is.

Any ideas of how i can detail my faded paint without such hazing from occuring???

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Old 07-25-2006, 08:50 AM   #1042
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Good question. I can't see the "blochiness" you are referring to in the picture but I think i know what you're talking about. This sometimes happens when people polish by hand because its nearly impossible to do an even job by hand. You're going to press harder at times and not hit certain areas as many times as others. Polishing also requires the most pressure and contact to break the polish down and really work it into the surface.

To fix this I would highly recommend getting the Porter Cable 7424. This is an orbital buffer so its not dangerous like traditional rotary buffers. Its extremely easy to use and get great results with. I would get the Porter Cable 7424 Kit that comes with white polishing pad. This pad is the perfect pad to apply the Menzerna Final Polish II with. The Menzerna Final Polish II works great at removing that "blochiness" and really making the paint pop. This should leave the paint looking uniform again.

Let me know if you'd like more information about the PC7424 or the Final Polish II.

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Old 07-25-2006, 01:10 PM   #1043
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Right now I dont have the money ( I think) for the Klasse and other such products on your site, so im considering soem meguires or black magic products for the time being (anythingb etter than nothing right?). For a syntetic wax would Meg's NXT Tech Liquid or Paste wax be ok? Or Black Magics Synthetic Liquid Wax? And for a carnuba how about Meg's Gold Class Liquid or Paste wax? Also, I can put the Syntetic Wax on First and then the Carnuba right?
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:26 PM   #1044
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I've heard NXT and duragloss are good for local stuff. I would put the sealant down first and then the carnauba on top of it.

I know some of the products on the site seem expensive but in general you need very little to do a coat compared to some generic products. For a product like Klasse I use about .75 ounces per coat, so on a per use basis its a pretty good value. The Klasse will in my opinion look better and protect longer too so that adds to its value. If your looking for a high quality sealant thats affordable look at the Poorboy's World EX and EX-P.

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Old 07-25-2006, 02:07 PM   #1045
///McKinzie
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well the end of the week I should have my finances straightend out. Im tuning up my car right now so I'm waiting to find out about labor and other stuff like that. So more than likly im gonna get the Klasse AIO the the Poorboys Natty Wax.
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Old 07-25-2006, 02:30 PM   #1046
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Thats a great combination that lasts extra long. I think you'll be very happy with the results. I look forward to shipping you the products if and when you're ready.

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Old 07-26-2006, 12:02 PM   #1047
///McKinzie
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AIO will remove the old wax right? I figure since its a polish.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:08 PM   #1048
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Yes its a chemical polish and sealant, which basically means that it will help clean the surface and put its own layer of sealant down.

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Old 07-26-2006, 03:28 PM   #1049
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Greg - can you give me your opinion on this problem I'm having. I've got a ton of these marks on the "nose" of my car....can you tell from these pics if they can be removed without requiring repainting. I guess I'm just hoping for the best..although my first inclination is that they are paint chips, they don't seem to go down to the metal.

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Old 07-26-2006, 03:52 PM   #1050
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Tree Sap

I must have parked under a tree because there are small drops of tree sap (smells like pine) on the roof and are impossible to remove. Do you have any suggestions on how I might be able to get this off my car w/o taking the paint with it?

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Old 07-27-2006, 12:03 PM   #1051
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Albo - most likely those are paint chips that can not be buffed out. Best options are touch up paint or repaint. If the marks are above the surface then it may be some sort of splatter. If they are indentations then probably chips, sorry no easy fixes.

g.unit - Isopropyl Alcohol found at any drugstore and most supermarkets. After that hopefully there is minimal marks left. Then I would use the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 followed by SSR 1.0. These polishes should help remove the residue and etchings that sap can cause.

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Old 07-27-2006, 12:06 PM   #1052
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Thank you! I really appreciate it and I'll post the results after I do what you've recommended.

Thanks again.

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Old 07-27-2006, 12:35 PM   #1053
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Thanks Greg....I knew I was reaching. Guess I'll probably have to get a quote for a respray.
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Old 07-27-2006, 01:28 PM   #1054
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Glad the information helped guys, feel free to post other detailing questions here too. We're here to get you the right information and products so you can take your detailing to the next level.

Good Luck!

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Old 07-30-2006, 08:47 PM   #1055
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My experience with you guys was incredible - from the great pricing to the fast delivery and the great results from the products. THANK YOU GREG AND GEORGE FOR THE WONDERFUL WORK!!!

I got my kit and worked on my car about a month ago. It took me a total of 16 hours to work on both the exterior and interior since I was doing all by hand and really carefully. Needless to say, I was so sore from all those products that I couldn't do much for the next two days, however I had wonderful results worth all that hard work!

I have a question on what possible went wrong here, though.

That's the trunk after all that work, but as you can see there's a small white spot. This is what it looked like today:

I now have extra spots that look like rusty dots. Did I do something wrong? Can I do something to reverse this? That white dot in the first pic is the big one on the right of the second pic. I have a similar one on the other car, a black 323Ci. Any ideas what it could be? Nothing else on the car looks like this.

Second question: when should I redo all that hard work? As in, every how many months

Anyways, THANK YOU GUYS once again for running such a wonderful business. I'll def. be making a few more purchases in the near future (Leatherique products, Poor Boy's Trim and another drying towel) and I have been telling everyone how I got my car to shine so nicely.
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:28 PM   #1056
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Greg,

Your bad news for Albo got me thinking (cause I have similar chips in my Schwarzblau front end), what about touch-up paint like AutoVisuals AutoSharp Pen? Are they effective for tiny chips?

I'm also curious to advice for Milla above. I have one similar spot on my rear deck that is haunting me.
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Old 07-31-2006, 04:38 PM   #1057
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Milla - We're always pleased to here that our customers are getting the great results they should. Looks like you got a great deep shine from your efforts. We work hard to provide you with quality information and products.

Now to the marks, first off its hard to say from just the picture. Is the mark on top, at, or beneath the surface? Are they brand new? Often times customers discover new marks and blemishes on their vehicle when they spend that much time with it (16 hours! thats a serious commitment, congrats). They could be sap marks or a small bird dropping that etched into the clear coat. Another possibility is small bubbles in the clear coat, that are now more exposed after polishing. Try and provide us a little more information about the mark and we'll try and narrow down the possibilities

You can redo the work whenever you want. We typically recommend doing it 1 -2 times a year. Inbetween we typically wash/dry and seal/wax. I typically do this maintenance step every couple weeks, while some do it every couple days and others twice a year. I recommend setting a schedule of when you want to do it and stick to it.

tpedwards - I have not used those tools, so I can't speak about them knowledgably. I believe if you search this forum you'll find some comments from other users.

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Old 08-01-2006, 01:15 PM   #1058
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Greg, the mark seems to be on the top layer. I don't feel any bumps or dips in the paint when I run my finger or a microfiber towel over it. I washed the car and tried seeing if it was just bird-doodoo (that's when I took the pic), but I think it might be a little more than that. It wasn't there when I first got done cleaning the car with all those products a month ago.

Should I try washing it again and using another of those products to see if I can get any results? The white big mark is under the coat I believe, so I'm not sure I can do much about that.

Thanks once again!
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:38 PM   #1059
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It looks like a bird poop etching or a hard water spot. Since you're working by hand it'll be hard to get out either way. The first thing I'd try is a chemical cleaner (Klasse AIO, Werkstatt Prime, etc...), use it just like a polish. If that doesn't do it an abrasive polish may, but as I said working by hand it can be very difficult to remove bird etchings (if that's what it is).
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Old 08-01-2006, 06:43 PM   #1060
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What speed settings on the PC do you recomend for the following steps:

1. Polishing /w PB SSR2.5
2. Polishing /w PB SSR1
3. Applying FMJ Sealant

Thanks
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