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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 08-05-2006, 11:29 AM   #1081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aborted
...what kind of maintenance would a job like that require? Would I just wash the car weekly and reapply the caranuba wax every couple months, maybe redoing the entire thing twice a year?
Yep, I would suggest waxing monthly or as often as you feel like applying another coat. Natural Carnauba Waxes tend to last anywhere from 2 - 8 weeks, and Natty's typically lasts longer than others so once a month would be what I would suggest.

Personally if you planned on doing that many coats of sealant, I'd layer Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze on top of itself then to 1 or 2 layers or FMJ for the added slickness on top instead of alternating each product.

Twice a year with that process would be sufficient due to the amount of layers of sealant you'd have on there.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any other questions you may have.

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Old 08-05-2006, 11:47 AM   #1082
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Yep, I would suggest waxing monthly or as often as you feel like applying another coat. Natural Carnauba Waxes tend to last anywhere from 2 - 8 weeks, and Natty's typically lasts longer than others so once a month would be what I would suggest.

Personally if you planned on doing that many coats of sealant, I'd layer Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze on top of itself then to 1 or 2 layers or FMJ for the added slickness on top instead of alternating each product.

Twice a year with that process would be sufficient due to the amount of layers of sealant you'd have on there.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any other questions you may have.

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But I was just following your guide that you listed on page 2 of this thread. You said that if money was not an issue, that's how you'd go about detailing the car. The only changes I made were to the polish and the brand of wax. Thank you for taking the time to answer.
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:24 PM   #1083
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Look into Poorboy's Natural Look if you are looking for a great interior cleaner and UV protectant for vinyl, rubber, leather and plastic. Smells amazing too, reminds me of the beach, tropical like scent.

George @ Detailed Image

Hey George, thanks for the suggestion, but I have one more question.

My seats are black leatherette, so would this Poorboy's Natural Look work well with leatherette? I don't really want to shell out the money to buy some Leatherique right now because I need to buy clay and Klasse, so would you recommend this as the next best thing for leatherette after Leatherique? Scent is my most important credential for any interior cleaner, since I will be maintaining the interior well and everything is still in good condition.
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Old 08-05-2006, 05:25 PM   #1084
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Hey George, thanks for the suggestion, but I have one more question.

My seats are black leatherette, so would this Poorboy's Natural Look work well with leatherette? I don't really want to shell out the money to buy some Leatherique right now because I need to buy clay and Klasse, so would you recommend this as the next best thing for leatherette after Leatherique? Scent is my most important credential for any interior cleaner, since I will be maintaining the interior well and everything is still in good condition.
The Natural Look works great on the interior and leatherette. Leatherique is definitely better but this serves a lot more functions. I think it smells great as do most of the Poorboy's World products. I tried to think of how to describe its scent and I really couldn't. Maybe someone else on this forum can give you a description. Lexol is another good option but again its doesn't serve multiple purposes like the Natural Look.

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Old 08-06-2006, 03:53 PM   #1085
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My poorboys natty blue has lost it's consistancy or something...kinda gritty. Any ideas?

I should have said the actual paste in the jar. It's almost sandy/flaky. It goes on alright though. Hell, I'm using on my wifes SUV anyhow I'm using Pinnacle on my ride
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:57 AM   #1086
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George, would you mind clearing up the confusion for me please? Don't mean to be a bother, I'm just a little lost. On page 2, you suggested alternating between FMJ and the acrylic shield a few times. But just a few posts back, you said it would be better to layer the Klasse AIO and then add a couple layers of FMJ. So which would give better/longer protection/shine?
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Old 08-07-2006, 08:47 AM   #1087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aborted
George, would you mind clearing up the confusion for me please? Don't mean to be a bother, I'm just a little lost. On page 2, you suggested alternating between FMJ and the acrylic shield a few times. But just a few posts back, you said it would be better to layer the Klasse AIO and then add a couple layers of FMJ. So which would give better/longer protection/shine?
Sorry about that, I had a long response ready for you this weekend and the site was going slow and it crashed on me so here goes:

As far as what I would consider "the best" combination, some things have changed over the past year as we try new techniques, new product combinations, and learn more about the products.

Now what is posted there was FMJ w/ HGAS inbetween, both Menzerna products, both designed to work with eachother. You threw me for a loop when you switched out Menzerna HGAS with Klasse HGSG, 2 different products with similar abbreviations. I was trying to say you'd get maximum benefits if you wanted to use those products by switching the order around to after Klasse All-In-One layer the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze since they are designed to bond together and do as many coats as you wish, then if you wanted to put FMJ on top you could but is it necessary, not really. Your best bet would be to do a few layers (3 - 5 tops) of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze for maximum protection, then top with say Pinnicle Souveran (1 - 3 coats) for an amazing combination of durability and a deep, wet, glossy look.

The reason I personally chose FMJ over Klasse HGSG is the sheer fact its so much easier to use and work with. I could do 2 coats of FMJ faster than 1 coat of HGSG due to it being difficult to remove at times.

Klasse AIO is used in that example as a base coat of sealant. In reality after 3 coats of abrasive polishing prior to the AIO coat as listed on page two, AIO is almost unncessary in the equation of that detail since the chemical cleaners probably would not remove anything the abrasive polishes did, so jump to the glaze and start to seal right after. Again, a small change as you learn things over time, same with now recommending Pinnicle Souveran over the P21s Carnauba Wax.

I hope this helps clarify some things as I know this entire art of detailing can be very stressful at times. Please do not hesitate to ask me to clarify anything else because I know its a lot to digest.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:16 AM   #1088
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Very Fine Scratches

I'm sure this may have been covered within the 55 pages of this thread but that's to many pages for me to look thru.

George, what would be the best and easiest way to remove extremely fine scratches from the roof of my car. They are very very fine. You can't feel them with your finger and can only be seen from specific angles but i'm very picky so i see it all. LOL

I tried meguires scratch remover and another brand but it didn't really seem to work to well. I did do it by hand so maybe that's the problem? Also i would like to add what over the counter product can i use?

Any help would be great. Thank you in advance.
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:28 AM   #1089
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Thank you for clearing that up . So the updated version is...

Wash/dry
Clay
Wash/dry
Poorboy's SSR 2.5
Poorboy's SSR 1
Menzerna FTG
Menzerna FMJ
Menzerna HGAS
Menzerna FMJ
Menzerna HGAS
Menzerna FMJ
Menzerna HGAS
2 x Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax (damn that Pinnacle stuff is expensive)

This'll do the trick? All will be applied/buffed by hand. Using the above, is it possible to achieve something like this:



?
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:31 AM   #1090
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For an over the counter fix, I'd look into 3M polishes like their Fine Cut Compound and / or their 3M Swirl Mark Remover. Another brand you could look into is Duragloss but I'm not 100% familiar with their line yet.

If you planned on ordering with us I'd suggest the Menzerna Polishes with a buffer or the Poorboy's SSRs by hand.

Good luck and keep us posted with how you made out.

Sincerely,

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Old 08-07-2006, 11:39 AM   #1091
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aborted,

Definately achievable with the products you have selected. Keep in mind though that the prep work is going to be the most important on achieving those results and by hand you will not get AS GOOD of results as you would by hand but if you take your time to do it right you'll get the results you are looking for.

To maximize your effeciency by hand I'd strongly suggest purchasing the Lake Country Hand Applicator Kit. This will give you maximum results by hand and save you some time and energy.

As far as the kit is concerned these are the pads I'd suggest for the products you selected:

SSR 2.5 - Yellow Pad
SSR 1 - White Pad
FTG - Blue Pad
FMJ - Black Pad
HGAS - Spray on buff off w/ MF
Natty's Blue - pick up a foam or microfiber applicator pad

Let me know how this sounds and if any other questions come up let me know.

Sincerely,

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Old 08-07-2006, 11:55 AM   #1092
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Awesome, thank you. Now just one more thing and you'll be done with me lol. Obviously that's going to be a lot of work, so would it be OK to split it between two different days? If so, where do you reccomend the split? On the second day, would I just use some QD to remove the dust and continue as normal?
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:11 PM   #1093
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Personally I'd go as far as getting a coat of protection on there, so your first FMJ coat, then next day either QD or do a quick wash and start on your next coat. Also, wait 12- 24 hrs between coats of Natty's for maximum results.

Don't hesitate to keep asking questions, we are here for everyone before, during and after the sale.

Sincerely,

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Quote:
Originally Posted by aborted
Awesome, thank you. Now just one more thing and you'll be done with me lol. Obviously that's going to be a lot of work, so would it be OK to split it between two different days? If so, where do you reccomend the split? On the second day, would I just use some QD to remove the dust and continue as normal?
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:34 PM   #1094
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Thank you for your quick repsonse. Just one other question. DO you think very good results can be reached by doing it by hand or would you suggest using a buffer?

Edit: I'm sorry, i see you answered my question. I just read right over that part of your repsonse
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:49 PM   #1095
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A new style of question

Guys.. been a while.. been doing the typical.. and have detailed a few cars with the stuff I bought up there in the interim. I have a new question though. I recently was given some new painted parts for my bike, fresh from the painter, they have been curing in open air off the bike for over a month now. Before I put them on I want to protect them the best that I can since it is a custom paint job for the bike.. seeing what appears to be residue of wax or polishing compound I am not sure if I should do a Dawn wash, then Glaze, then FMJ and wax.. what do you think?
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Old 08-07-2006, 04:13 PM   #1096
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Hey 1999 TV Dinan M, Glad to hear from you, it has been a while.

Chances are the shop just did a quick buff on it and created a haze and that's what you are seeing. You can wash with dawn to ensure all fillers are removed as well as strip off any protection on the paint (which there shouldn't be any). This will give you a better idea on what you are truely looking at as well. Another option would be to give it a wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol / Water Mix (1:1 ratio using the 70% ISA). From there you can assess the true condition of the paint and decide what is best to be done from there.

Ideally though you do want to wait 90 - 120 days for the paint to fully cure unless it was baked prior to leaving the shop. Check with the shop for more specific time period.

Polishing and glaze are safe to use while the paint is still curing but I personally would wait before you protect it. If the shop gives you the go ahead, then yes, you have the proper order and products to use.

Feel free to PM us for anything further but it was great hearing from you!

Sincerely,

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999 TV Dinan M
Guys.. been a while.. been doing the typical.. and have detailed a few cars with the stuff I bought up there in the interim. I have a new question though. I recently was given some new painted parts for my bike, fresh from the painter, they have been curing in open air off the bike for over a month now. Before I put them on I want to protect them the best that I can since it is a custom paint job for the bike.. seeing what appears to be residue of wax or polishing compound I am not sure if I should do a Dawn wash, then Glaze, then FMJ and wax.. what do you think?
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:26 PM   #1097
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I might be doing a car for a friend this weekend, clay-ssr1, 2.5, glaze, wax

He ran through some wet paint on the road and splashed quite a bit of paint right behind front tires on the door (one solid section is bigger than my hand). What should I do to remove it? Should I work on it first or just get to it as I work with different steps?
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Old 08-09-2006, 09:54 AM   #1098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aborted
Thank you for clearing that up . So the updated version is...

Wash/dry
Clay
Wash/dry
Poorboy's SSR 2.5
Poorboy's SSR 1
Menzerna FTG
Menzerna FMJ
Menzerna HGAS
Menzerna FMJ
Menzerna HGAS
Menzerna FMJ
Menzerna HGAS
2 x Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax (damn that Pinnacle stuff is expensive)

This'll do the trick? All will be applied/buffed by hand. Using the above, is it possible to achieve something like this:



?
that car is sick....wat he use to get results like that???........

makes my car look dirty lol..i goin 2 upgrade my stuff...
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Old 08-09-2006, 12:06 PM   #1099
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that car is sick....wat he use to get results like that???.......

Photoshop.
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Old 08-09-2006, 01:07 PM   #1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EIAlfonso
I might be doing a car for a friend this weekend, clay-ssr1, 2.5, glaze, wax

He ran through some wet paint on the road and splashed quite a bit of paint right behind front tires on the door (one solid section is bigger than my hand). What should I do to remove it? Should I work on it first or just get to it as I work with different steps?
Might want to try clay bar, degreaser or mineral spirits to try to remove it b/c you do not want to ruin your pads and potentially cause more damage than already occured.

Then once its removed continue on as you suggested.

Let me know if there is anything else I can answer.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image
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