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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 08-09-2006, 03:30 PM   #1101
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Hey DI,

Just a quick question regarding the Klasse twins:

Am I supposed to clay my windshield and windows? After that, am I supposed to use AIO and SG on my windshield and windows? Just wondering if you treat windows the same with the clay and Klasse twins as the rest of the car.

Last edited by eek142; 08-09-2006 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 08-09-2006, 06:01 PM   #1102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eek142
Hey DI,

Just a quick question regarding the Klasse twins:

Am I supposed to clay my windshield and windows? After that, am I supposed to use AIO and SG on my windshield and windows? Just wondering if you treat windows the same with the clay and Klasse twins as the rest of the car.
Many people will do what you just said, clay windows as well as protect them and it will provide you with a barrier of protection that will help rain bead off as well as protect it from elements and make cleaning easier. Just make sure you remove all of the product because the last thing you want is streaked, hazy windshield!

Let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image
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Old 08-09-2006, 07:20 PM   #1103
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One more question: should I do the same (Clay, Klasse twins) to headlights and tail lights? Or leave those alone?
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Old 08-09-2006, 07:48 PM   #1104
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Yep, you can use the clay and AIO over lights as well, its nice how universal Klasse is.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotta love it!
One more question: should I do the same (Clay, Klasse twins) to headlights and tail lights? Or leave those alone?
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Old 08-11-2006, 03:17 PM   #1105
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really REALLY BAD brake dust build-up HELP

Hey there - new to the forum and to Bimmers in general - just bought a beautiful 2001 330i. I absolutely love these OEM ///M rims but one of them has dried caked brake dust so solid and thick in a few corners that it will NOT budge with even full strength simple green. Needless to say one of the so-called 'scrubless' spray n rinse rim cleaners from Eagle has no effect whatsoever.

I can take my key and scrape a little of this stuff off, and I've been able get like a thin layer of it off by using a plastic scrub brush with simple green full strength but I'm probably scratching the paint finish more than getting this horrible brown stuff off the rim.

On another forum someone suggested Mequiar's Wheel Brightener diluted 2:1 but I'd like to find a small amount to try it rather than spend $20 on a gallon. I've seen P21S Gel recommended as well.

What's the strongest stuff I should use and hopefully not destroy the rim in the process - and is anything available at local auto stores like Pep Boys or Advance Auto, etc?
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:33 AM   #1106
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Most wheel cleaners you find in stores are highly acidic and quite strong. These typically can break up most loose contamination. Never use these type of cleaners on any high polished aluminum, chrome or fine metal surfaces, most alloy wheels are fine. The Megs and Eagle One all use these strong acids and would probably have a similar result. The P21S Wheel Gel is a ph balanced wheel cleaner that is safe on all wheels. This is a great product for regular maintenance but would probably not remove the worst grime you are describing.

Since the build ups your describing are in the corners I'm guessing it's a common spot where brake dust is hitting. This brake dust hits the wheel at very high temperatures and with repeated exposure to the same area the wheel can develop fine pits. These pits collect more brake dust and are often extremely difficult to clean. Depending on how bad it is I don't know if anything will remove it but I've had my best success with a strong metal polish like the P21S Finish Restorer. This is a deep cleaning polish that should be worked in with a paint safe two sided microfiber polishing towel for best results. If anything can take it out this would be your best bet, from all the different products I've tried.

Hope this information helped.

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Old 08-13-2006, 12:09 PM   #1107
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So yesterday I detailed my friends car which is black. When the car was in the garage, the car looked perfect after I used all 4 steps of the Menzerna Line(Intensive Polish, Final Polis II, FTG, FMJ). But then when I pulled the car out under direct sunlight, all the swirls were visible, maybe some were taken off, but I don't know if I am doing something wrong or what. Even the really small swirls are still there, what am I doing wrong?
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Old 08-13-2006, 02:03 PM   #1108
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Im wondering if you guys are still offering the Porter Cable 7424/Foam Pad Bundle Kit that you mentioned way in the beginning of this thread?
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:27 PM   #1109
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e46wannabe - We do have a special for e46 members on the Porter Cable Kit which gets you:
-PC 7424
-6" Velcro Backing Plate
-2x White Lake Country Polishing Pads 6.5"
-1x Orange Lake Country Cutting Pad 6.5"
-1x Black Lake Country Finishing Pad 6.5"
-2x Snappy Clean Pad Cleaners

Let me know if you need any help picking out products that match your needs and the pads listed above. We look forward to helping you get the best results from your detail.


cambridge - Did you use a buffer and if so which pads with what products. The PC is easy to use but it does take some time to master polishing. It requires enough pressure but not too much, which comes with experience. Additionally you have to have realistic expectations, because you can only safely remove some swirls. Let us know a little more about your process and we'll try to help you improve your results.

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Old 08-13-2006, 04:22 PM   #1110
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Hey,

Got another question for you. Can I use Klasse AIO and SG on chrome metal trim and door handles (even though I don't think I have chrome handles)? Also, just to make sure, is there anything on the car that I should tape up to protect from white haze of SG or AIO?

Here is my plan:
wash
dry
clay (mother's clay bar kit)
wash
dry
Klasse AIO (using microfiber applicator pads and then buffing off with microfiber towels)
Klasse SG (same process as AIO)

Is there anything out of those things that I mentioned that will harm/leave a white haze on any part of my car? Is there ANYTHING AT ALL that I should tape up throughout this entire process? Thanks so much!

P.S. Oh yeah, also about AIO and SG - should I give them any time to set after I apply them or are they both wipe-on, wipe-off?

Thanks!
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Old 08-13-2006, 06:17 PM   #1111
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I'm not George or Greg but I can field this one. AIO/SG are fine on all metals, in fact AIO is an awesome metal cleaner. The only parts you may want to tape are rubber trim - windows in particular. AIO can dust and it will stain trim, so taping those areas will prevent staining and more importantly, dust lodged in between the glass and trim.

Neither AIO or SG need time to set, in fact it is almost always beneficial to buff them off *right away*. Letting them dry a little will cause them to be much tougher to remove. Remember, less is more... thin thin layers.

Cheers.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:04 PM   #1112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picus
I'm not George or Greg but I can field this one. AIO/SG are fine on all metals, in fact AIO is an awesome metal cleaner. The only parts you may want to tape are rubber trim - windows in particular. AIO can dust and it will stain trim, so taping those areas will prevent staining and more importantly, dust lodged in between the glass and trim.

Neither AIO or SG need time to set, in fact it is almost always beneficial to buff them off *right away*. Letting them dry a little will cause them to be much tougher to remove. Remember, less is more... thin thin layers.

Cheers.
Hi ! Guys.

Based on what I read in this forum, AIO can buff off right away. As for SG it is better to let it cure for at least 8 to 10 hours before removing right?

I am always confused regarding Klassese SG. Which is correct?
(1) Buff off right away (Wipe On Wipe Off - WOWO)
or
(2) Apply and let it cure for 8 to 10 hours before removing

Thanks
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Old 08-13-2006, 09:57 PM   #1113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCAR
Hi ! Guys.

Based on what I read in this forum, AIO can buff off right away. As for SG it is better to let it cure for at least 8 to 10 hours before removing right?

I am always confused regarding Klassese SG. Which is correct?
(1) Buff off right away (Wipe On Wipe Off - WOWO)
or
(2) Apply and let it cure for 8 to 10 hours before removing

Thanks
There are two ways to do SG, either WOWO, so apply and remove right away or let it sit overnight. I would not let it sit less than 12-24 hours especially in a humid environment if you do let it sit at all. Just from my personal experience with it, of course.
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:35 PM   #1114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs
cambridge - Did you use a buffer and if so which pads with what products. The PC is easy to use but it does take some time to master polishing. It requires enough pressure but not too much, which comes with experience. Additionally you have to have realistic expectations, because you can only safely remove some swirls. Let us know a little more about your process and we'll try to help you improve your results.

Greg @ Detailed Image
For the Intensive Polish, I used the Orange Cutting Pad and with the Final Polish II, I used the White Polishing Pad. For FTG and FMJ, they were applied by hand by the circular microfiber pad. Maybe I need to put more pressure on the porter cable? This was used on a Lexus IS350 and now I am a little disappointed and worried that when I detail my car, it will turn out the same. Maybe Poorboy's SSR line?
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:18 PM   #1115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picus
There are two ways to do SG, either WOWO, so apply and remove right away or let it sit overnight. I would not let it sit less than 12-24 hours especially in a humid environment if you do let it sit at all. Just from my personal experience with it, of course.
Hi ! picus.

Thanks for your replied

May I know which method will achieve good protection for our car?
WOWO or Let it sit overnight?

Frankly I prefer the WOWO but it gave me a feeling like wasting the SG What do you think?
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:54 AM   #1116
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Cambridge - Pressure is necessary when looking for best results with polishes but obviously too much can be bad too. When I was learning to do rotary polishing I picked up a hood from a junkyard for $10, which is a great way to practice, or a friend with a beat up car. Additionally I would run the buffer around speed 5 if you feel comfortable. The SSRs don't work quite as well as the Menzerna line in my opinion once you become a little more skilled with the PC. Once you master how much pressure to apply your results will improve. Remember to be patient too, it takes time to master the buffer even though its safe for anyone. Additionally make sure you're doing multiple passes over the same area. Here is the motion we recommend:

With the buffer off smear the product over an area approximately 2ft X 2ft. With the buffer touching the painted area you just smeared the product over turn the buffer on. Work in a logical pattern such as: starting in the top left corner of your 2ft X 2ft square move the buffer at a slow and steady pace left to right with medium pressure, it should take about 5 seconds or more to get from one side to the other. Now move the buffer down and move it right to left overlapping the previous row by 50%. Repeat this process going up and down until each part of the clear coat has got four passes over it.

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Old 08-14-2006, 09:57 AM   #1117
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The HGSG will protect better if you leave it on for 12 - 24 hours but still give you great protection if removed right after its application. You won't be wasting it if you remove it right away. Some people will apply it at night and remove it early in the morning so they don't have to be without their vehicle for an extended period of time while its curing. The HGSG is great at leaving a deep wet shine when completed. It can be a little pain to remove but well worth it for the protection and great look it leaves behind.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCAR
Hi ! picus.

Thanks for your replied

May I know which method will achieve good protection for our car?
WOWO or Let it sit overnight?

Frankly I prefer the WOWO but it gave me a feeling like wasting the SG What do you think?
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Old 08-14-2006, 10:21 AM   #1118
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Dear Greg.

Thank you very much for the clarification regarding HGSG.

If I have the time, I will apply and leave it cure for 12 to 24 hrs.
If not I will just used the WOWO method

Cheers
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Old 08-14-2006, 10:36 AM   #1119
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Sounds like a plan, Good Luck! Let us know if there is anything else we can help you with. Feel free to post some pics after too.

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Old 08-15-2006, 09:38 PM   #1120
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Hey DI,

After all your advice and help, I decided to clay for the first time in preparation for the Klasse twins. Anyway, I started on the hood of my beater before I do the real thing just to make sure I can do it right. Well, after touching the clay for the first time and kneading it and using it, I felt as though this clay was no different than possibly colored kid's clay you can buy.

I'm using Mother's California Gold Clay Bar Kit with soap water mixture instead of QD b/c I'm saving the Quick Detailer for the bimmer. Anyway, is there really any difference between this clay and soft children's clay that I've touched before? It seemed like they were very similar.

On another note, is soap+water mixture in a spritzer okay to use if I run out of Quick Detailer when detailing the bimmer, because I find myself spritzing non-stop so the clay glides well. Is it as good as the QD? If not, is there anything else I can substitute in place of the QD?

Also, how should I store my unused clay for the long term? I bought some tight seal ziploc tupperware cases where you twist on the lid and it's liquid proof. Is this good enough? I've heard that you should spray the clay with QD and then store it. Is that true? What is the best way?

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by gotta love it!; 08-15-2006 at 09:55 PM.
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