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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 08-16-2006, 09:18 AM   #1121
Greg@DetailedImage.com
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You do want to use a good amount of clay lube (aka quick detailer or soap and water mixture). I prefer a quick detailer because they wipe clean and leave no residue behind when you have a good microfiber towel. As for using a soap and water mix thats fine just make sure you rinse along the way and that the soap doesn't dry on your paint. You can rinse it frequently but then if you don't dry you can get watermarks. I know a lot of people use the soap and water method but it does make me nervous. Maybe someone who uses this method can talk about it more.

The differences between detailing clay and children's clay are slight but important. Detailing clay tends to be more durbale and tackier to help it pick up contaminates. Its ability to pull out contaminates and debris is usually a distinguishing element. I'll have to look into this more to find some more techinical breakdowns.

For storing the clay bar I recommend spraying Quick Detailer on the clay in an air tight container.

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Old 08-16-2006, 10:14 PM   #1122
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Greg,

I just purchased a super-mint condition 2003 330i. Off the lot the paint and surface are shiny, beautiful and when I rub the back of my hand over it extremely smooth.

Due to budge constraints I plan on getting many of the products you recommend next spring. In the meantime I was wondering if I could just use up the rest of my ZYMOL Carbon wax (NOT THE CHEAP CLEANER CRAP), that I purchased a while back directly from their website and keep in my fridge? Do you think that since everything is nice, shiny, smooth that I should just leave well enough alone?

Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:22 PM   #1123
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just leave it at room temperature, and you'll be fine. Shelf life for products are pretty long.
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:36 PM   #1124
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no, I know it's probably still good stuff...

The question is whether to use it on my new (used) car or not being that is already seems waxed and/or polished. If there is a rule to wax like you can never have too much of a good thing or you don't think the zymol will ruin the wax that is already there I have absolutely no problem putting the time or effort in..
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:55 AM   #1125
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That wax will be fine, some protection or more protection is always better then less. The paint may be super smooth but it may not be protected. It may have a wax on it but it won't hurt to add another layer. I would go ahead and apply a coat now.

As for the future we'd be really happy to help you put together a package that makes the paint look even better. Feel free to post a message here, PM or e-mail use. Good luck with the detail and let us know if you have any other questions.

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Old 08-17-2006, 10:19 AM   #1126
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Wow Greg, thanks for the kindness and your time. Also thanks for not shunning me during these times of low-budget solutions. I understand how frustrating it can be as a professional when you make certain recommendations of stuff you know is the best-solution and people settle for less...

I'll lookup exact instructions for zymol-ing this weekend...

Like I said hopefully the spring we can put something together, I need mostly solutions for a highway conditions-abused paint/exterior.

Probably 20k of the 25k I put on a year is highway and my Jetta was pretty beaten up by 75k miles (I just got rid of it). Only zymol (by hand) and my brothers macguires (applied mechanically) ever touched it and it still had these nasty water spots that seemed to be engrained into the paint. How do I avoid that for my bmw? My car unfortuantely sits in the sun a lot...

Currently trying to put together some plans for front end protection, you wouldn't happen to have opinions on Stongard vs Lamin-x would you?

Again, thank you so so much for your time and assistance. I look forward to doing business with you in the future...
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Old 08-17-2006, 02:36 PM   #1127
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No problem at all we understand that sometimes people have to work with what they have and not what they want. We'll be here to help you put together an ideal package for your particular vehicle when you're ready.

Watermarks are caused by mineral deposits in water that etch into the clear coat when the clear coat gets warm (mainly from the sun). Water from sprinklers (or hoses) is the biggest cause of this and the paint only needs a little bit of time in the sun to warm up enough for damage to occur. To prevent this from happening (aside from the obvious of avoid places with sprinklers, parking inside, etc.) is to layer sealants on your clear coat. Sealants are like waxes but more durable and protect your paint better. Is this method fool proof? Certainly not but its better than waxing or doing nothing. Additionally if you clay and polish the surface it will be smoother which has two main benefits: 1. a smoother surface will help moisture roll off easier and form finer beads 2.) the sealant will adhere to the clear coat better. I also personally like to apply at least two coats of sealant to my vehicles for extra strong protection and shine.

Sorry I don't have personal experience with Stongard or Lamin-x to comment on. Posting in the general forum might get you some more responses.

Good luck with the detail and I look forward to hearing from you in the future.

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Old 08-17-2006, 02:44 PM   #1128
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OK, great...

I looked through your "sealant" section on your website and noticed there's a Carnauba + Sealant section. The Poorboy's caught my eye (the $16 one). That sounds (to the untrained ear) like it'd kill two birds with one stone for me.

I'm looking for durability more than anything, would you suggest any of your sealant-only products over the combo as being more protective?

Like I said the car will probably be outside a lot and I noticed on the jetta that most of the water marks came from post-raining sunshine (I HATE THAT) where the beaded water would just sit on the flat part of the hood and leave marks

wax and seal, wax and seal... good thing board exams are over for another year, just need to get res apps out and I'll wax my way until it snows lol...
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Old 08-17-2006, 02:56 PM   #1129
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The rain can cause watermarks too but is less likely because its often cloudy when it rains. However if you get a quick sunshine after it rains or you have high levels of acid rain it can happen as well.

The Poorboy's World EX is a sealant with some carnauba in for more shine, the Poorboy's World EX-P is a pure sealant that protects longer and still produces a great shine. Therefore I'd recommend the EX-P at this time for you. You can always add a carnauba wax after if you want more shine on top.

We suggest applying the sealant first and then natural waxes on top of them. The sealants I have on my site will layer nicely for increased protection. Then if you want that deep gloss apply a carnauba wax after like the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax. For great protection and shine apply two+ coats of EX-P and then 1 - 2 coats of the Natty's Blue and you'll have the protection and shine you want. This combo is our site special for our redesigned site which is launching today. We apologize if anyone has had trouble logging in, we're working on a few small bugs as we speak. Feel free to call in any orders you may have questions about 518-225-2342 (best reached 10am - 6pm EST) is my direct extension for anyone needing assistance.

Let me know if there is anything else we can help you with.

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Old 08-18-2006, 04:27 PM   #1130
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I used leatherique rejuvenator on parts of my seats and left it under the sun all day as instructed. Then used pristine clean and buffed it with a microfiber towel. It might sound strange but I see microscopic black dots on my brown leather on areas where I applied leatherique. Is this normal?
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Old 08-19-2006, 01:16 AM   #1131
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Greg, I just ordered 303 Fabric Guard and Convertible Top cleaner. The cleaner worked great with such ease! Havent used the fabric gaurd yet, waiting on a pretty day. I just had a big tune up on my car (spark plugs, tranny oil air filter ect). The people who did my transmission oil change put the remaining bottle in my passengers side floorboard...with the lid half screwed. The bottle was leaned over and when I got home to grab it I noticed it had leaked. Now I cant open my door without being hit with fumes. Its soooo strong. I went to the car was and hosed down my mats for 15 minutes. I got all the smell out of them. Yet my car still smells. Im using carpet cleaner (the kind in a can with a scrub brush attached) to scrub my carpet and febreezeing like nobody's bussiness. Is there any way I can get this out quick? BTW there is no stain.
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Old 08-19-2006, 10:04 AM   #1132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djfreex View Post
I used leatherique rejuvenator on parts of my seats and left it under the sun all day as instructed. Then used pristine clean and buffed it with a microfiber towel. It might sound strange but I see microscopic black dots on my brown leather on areas where I applied leatherique. Is this normal?
I haven't heard of this happening before but I'll speculate on what might have happened. You possibly pressed too hard and removed tiny piece of seat material. They might have been there before and now you noticed them or they are more visible now. It may be something left behind by the cloth you used to apply or remove the product. Sorry I don't have any more information I really haven't heard of anything like this. If you have any other information I'd be happy to try and help more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///McKinzie View Post
Greg, I just ordered 303 Fabric Guard and Convertible Top cleaner. The cleaner worked great with such ease! Havent used the fabric gaurd yet, waiting on a pretty day. I just had a big tune up on my car (spark plugs, tranny oil air filter ect). The people who did my transmission oil change put the remaining bottle in my passengers side floorboard...with the lid half screwed. The bottle was leaned over and when I got home to grab it I noticed it had leaked. Now I cant open my door without being hit with fumes. Its soooo strong. I went to the car was and hosed down my mats for 15 minutes. I got all the smell out of them. Yet my car still smells. Im using carpet cleaner (the kind in a can with a scrub brush attached) to scrub my carpet and febreezeing like nobody's bussiness. Is there any way I can get this out quick? BTW there is no stain.
Another tough one! For strong odors I usually put baking soda in a tray right near the smell. This actually absorbs the odor as opposed to just covering it up. Sometimes even the best cleaning job can leave something behind, especially if its oil. If you know anyone or anyplace that does carpet extracting it might further remove any residue left behind.


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Old 08-19-2006, 03:10 PM   #1133
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Yay, lol. Would those Baking Soda fridge packs be ok or do I need to put the baking soda in the open on a pan? Also, I used the fabric gaurd today. I sprayed it on evenly till the top was pretty shiny. Would that be enough to make it water repellent or should I put on another coat. Im leaving it in the garage till Monday to let it dry.
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Old 08-19-2006, 06:55 PM   #1134
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Both would work but I think pouring it out into a pan increases the surface area that can absorb the odor so it might work faster. As for the Fabric Guard its hard to say what amount is perfect. It depends on how plush the fabric is and how it was applied. It sounds like you applied a good thorough coat so it will probably be fine as is, but a second coat will only improve the protection.

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Old 08-20-2006, 09:18 AM   #1135
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Thanks for the help!
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Old 08-21-2006, 12:17 AM   #1136
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Well recently i just got my car detailed. After putting some polish on, it was all good. Now when i look on the hood near the front of the car i see many white little spots. I might think it could be probably from some construction area or paint over spray or something?? My friend (who detailed it) suggested i get 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to remove them. I did get it and it did help a little, but the tiny small white dots are still there, is there any way i can remove them? (btw it's a black car).

help!
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Old 08-21-2006, 03:48 AM   #1137
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Also what exactly does 3M imperial hang glaze do?
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Old 08-21-2006, 05:47 AM   #1138
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Greg,

1.) I'm 99% sure I'm buying the sealant you suggested this week, if I order tonight or tomorrow will it be to 21201 by friday you think (I need it by friday)

2.) Do you give any discounts for people on the forums?

3.) What do you recommend from your store vs local crap-marts for like a spray-on before wash RIM CLEANER? The dealer warned me these break pads would be softer and dustier than the factory ceramic's on my VW and boy oh boy am I realizing it now? I have the 17" M3 rims on my 330i (they came that way?) and when I washed I barely got much off... recommendations?

Thanks SO MUCH!
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:30 AM   #1139
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Well recently i just got my car detailed. After putting some polish on, it was all good. Now when i look on the hood near the front of the car i see many white little spots. I might think it could be probably from some construction area or paint over spray or something?? My friend (who detailed it) suggested i get 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to remove them. I did get it and it did help a little, but the tiny small white dots are still there, is there any way i can remove them? (btw it's a black car).

help!
If the spots are at the same level of the clear coat or above it you're probably right its some sort of overspray or other contamination. I would go to the store and get Isopropyl alcohol and wipe down those areas with a CLEAN microfiber or soft cloth. The alcohol should help safely loosen this debris. If that doesn't work I'd use a set of abrasive polishes like the Poorboy's World SSR2.5 and SSR1.0. The SSR2.5 should be able to loosen it and buff it out. Then use the SSR1.0 after to ensure the surface is perfectly glossy and smooth again. This should solve your problem if the alcohol can't.

The 3M Hand Glaze wouldn't really remove the white specs just cover them. True glazes just help fill in low spots in the clear coat and add gloss to the finish. This product isn't really designed to remove contaminates.

Quote:
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Greg,

1.) I'm 99% sure I'm buying the sealant you suggested this week, if I order tonight or tomorrow will it be to 21201 by friday you think (I need it by friday)

2.) Do you give any discounts for people on the forums?

3.) What do you recommend from your store vs local crap-marts for like a spray-on before wash RIM CLEANER? The dealer warned me these break pads would be softer and dustier than the factory ceramic's on my VW and boy oh boy am I realizing it now? I have the 17" M3 rims on my 330i (they came that way?) and when I washed I barely got much off... recommendations?

Thanks SO MUCH!
1.) Should be there in 2 - 3 days.

2.) There is no standard discount for forum members at this time but we have helped people with large orders

3.) I don't use a lot of local stuff so I don't have a name to recommend. The local stuff in stores is almost always an acidic forumla that is very strong. It works great on alloys but can really harm highly polished wheels, non-clear coated wheels. The Poorboy's World Spray n Rinse is an example of this that we sell that can work great. Always spot test these formulas with a diluted concentration first. These can work great but i don't like using such a strong formula when I can avoid it.
My favorite wheel cleaner now is the P21S Metal Polishing Soap. Just get the supplied sponge wet and wipe across the soap once and you have a rich lather. This lather then helps clean and shine wheels really well. If the stains are really bad and need a deep cleaning you may need a deep cleaning polish like the P21S Finish Restorer. This polish removes just about anything that can come off a wheel and gives you the deepest cleaning and shine possible.

Since your wheels are building up brakedust so much you may want to consider some protection. After getting the wheels clean I really like to apply a Wheel Sealant like the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. This will help protect the wheels from high temperature brake dust build up and other road grime. Brake dust comes off the pads at several hundred degrees so they sizzle on the wheel and become embedded on the wheel. The Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant can resist temperatures up to 400+. On top of that the Wheel Sealant will also give the wheels a brilliant gloss that really makes the wheels look stunning. Apply multiple coats for increased protection and gloss. It applies and removes fairly easy, just buff on (I prefer a microfiber applicator) and buff it off with a clean cloth (I prefer a nice microfiber).

Hope this informatio helped, let me know if you have any questions.

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Old 08-22-2006, 02:08 PM   #1140
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Hey DI,

Quick question. I spent about 3 hours washingi and claying my car this morning until there was no more shade to cover the car on my driveway. Anyway, the Mother's California Gold Clay Bar Kit is amazing! Their Instant Detailer smells like cinnamon and attracted a couple of flys and bees, haha. Anyway, the car is ridiculously smooth after I used their instant detailer and clay bar. I plan to finish up my full detail this evening when the sun is gone. Anyway, do I have to wash the car again before applying Klasse AIO and SG if the car is clean? I'm just curious if the Instant Detailer will affect the Klasse bonding to the surface. Should I remove the Instant Detailer by washing and then using Klasse? Or can I just go right ahead and Klasse it up?

Thanks!
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