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Old 09-07-2006, 01:35 AM   #1161
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Any special products to make Alpine White shine more??
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:52 AM   #1162
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White can be a difficult color to really make "pop". To get the most dramatic result you'll need to first polish the surface with a cutting polish. If you have a Porter Cable 7424 I highly recommend the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II or the Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 and SSR 1.0. This will help remove some imperfections in your clear coat so light can pass through more easily and give you a deeper reflection. After that I really like the Poorboy's World EX-P on white, great protection and highly reflective shine. Then top it with the P21S Carnauba Wax for a really deep gloss. This wax makes the surface really "pop" and look its best.

In summary polishing will give you the most noticeable results and the EX-P/P21S Carnauba Wax combo is probably one of the best products for white colored vehicles.

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Old 09-07-2006, 01:14 PM   #1163
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Greg, which pad out of yellow, white, blue and orange has the deepest "cut" for lack of a better term. I found the last time I used the PC that unless I used the harshest one at high speed, I didn't really get any results - I have a Jet Black car BTW.
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:24 PM   #1164
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Which brand? Yellow is almost uniformly the most aggressive, but it depends on the brand.
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:57 PM   #1165
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I really don't remember the brand, I bought it as a package deal through a past sponser, but I believe you are right, the yellow is the most abrasive.
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:43 PM   #1166
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Yellow is generally the most aggressive and orange is the second most aggressive. The yellow pad is good but I typically do atleast three+ coats of polish to ensure no haze was left behind. Moving slow at a high speed and doing multiple passes over the same area seems to give me the best results when trying to cut with a polish.

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Old 09-10-2006, 06:29 PM   #1167
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Greg & George: i've added several items to my wishlist, but i can't find a link to where i can view my wishlist?

also i tried the clay bar on my wheels today, and it's great! but i'll try medium grade in the future to get everything out (hard-to-remove asphalt etc.)

there are some spots i can see but not feel, i guess these will need to be polished out. what is safe to polish my clearcoated BBS wheels with?

thanks! i really like your new site
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Old 09-10-2006, 08:11 PM   #1168
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Thanks for the compliments, glad to see you posting again

I'll have to create a new link when you log into your account but for now this is how you can access the wishlist.

Log in to your account you created. From there, select any product and add it to your wishlist. This will bring up your current wishlist and just delete the one you added.

Thanks for pointing that out to us I'll get it fixed ASAP so you can access it either under "My Account" or right in the top right box when logged in.

Let me know if there is anything we can help you with.

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Greg & George: i've added several items to my wishlist, but i can't find a link to where i can view my wishlist?
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Old 09-10-2006, 09:13 PM   #1169
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what is your opinion on foam guns?
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:23 AM   #1170
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what is your opinion on foam guns?
I've yet to be sold on what makes spending $50+ on a foam gun worth the money. It is a fun tool to have and from what I've heard will use more shampoo than necessary. Detailers often get caught up on thinking more foam is always better, which it is not. It is the lubricity of the water that makes automotive shampoos effective and the ability to release contamination from the surface. Even with a foam gun you are still using two wash buckets along with a mitt, however it does cut down on the time the mitt is touching the surface since you are spraying on the foam (but you still have to glide the wash mitt over the surface to actually clean the surface). I can say it is effective on cleaning undercarriges and hard to reach areas such as wheel wells on lowered vehicles, but other than that, put the $50+ towards something that will further enhance your results.

My .02,

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Old 09-11-2006, 09:12 AM   #1171
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i want to get one of these (see below) because i don't feel comfortable using a sponge/washmitt on a car full of mud, dust and other dirt. i prefer to soak the car with soap then gently hose it off and then go to work with the real cleaning using a sponge/washmitt.



there are some spots left on my wheel that i can see but not feel, i guess these will need to be polished out. what is safe to polish my clearcoated BBS wheels with?
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Old 09-11-2006, 03:08 PM   #1172
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George, what do I need to do to get my engine bay looking 'new' again.. i.e. i dont want it to have that slime look to it I want it to look new, thanks.

-Alex
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Old 09-11-2006, 03:28 PM   #1173
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George, what do I need to do to get my engine bay looking 'new' again.. i.e. i dont want it to have that slime look to it I want it to look new, thanks.

-Alex
Alex, great question. Basically I'm going to recommend two products: an all purpose degreaser to handle removing dirt, grime and contamination and a water based dressing for the engine bay which will give you that new, matte finish you are looking for, plus protection for your plastics, hoses, rubber, etc.

Poorboy's All Purpose Cleaner Biodegradable Degreaser is an excellent product to use on engine bays, interior stains, wheel wells and more. It is a concentrated formula so you'll want to dilute it to the proper ratio, we suggest using 3:1 (water:APC) and going stronger as needed. If you need a spray bottle to dilute the product in click here. Keep in mind this 32oz bottle can make up to a gallon of cleaner when used at a 3:1 dilution so you can maximize the value of this product.

As far as the water based dressing, 303 Aerospace Protectant is my favorite matte finish dressing. It has many uses such as: engine bay dressing, exterior trim protectant, interior trim (dash, console, doors, and even seats) protectant and dressing with UV protection and also as a matte tire dressing.

Now I'm sure you are wondering how to use these products...

First thing you want to do is warm up the engine slightly, this will aid in easier removal of grease and other contamination build up. Once it is warmed up, shut the engine off.

Next, cover all exposed electronics, intakes, and any other part that should not be flooded with water with aluminum foil. The reason for this is you can easily mold it around what you want to cover. (Just make sure you remember to remove it all before starting the engine again!)

Wet the engine bay, including painted areas, to prep it for degreasing, then mist the degreaser starting from the bottom areas of the engine bay and working up to the top. Let the degreaser sit for a minute or two before proceeding to the next step.

Hose off the engine bay to remove the degreaser, this will remove a good deal of contamination and build up. To clean stubborn stains, take a rag or brush with the degreaser and attack an area specifically. When satisfied, remove the aluminum foil.

Start the car at this point to let the engine bay self dry. This will also ensure you did not screw anything up and you vehicle still turns over. Shut off the vehicle after a minute or two of running slightly above idle.

As the engine bay is still slightly wet, spray on your engine dressing starting from the bottom and working in both horizontal and verticle patterns. Take a drying towel and blot dry the engine bay. This should leave your engine bay looking like new with a beautiful matte finish. For the painted areas, treat it like your exterior paint. Feel free to polish, seal, wax, etc.

Others will suggest using a can of WD-40. The reason we do not suggest this is over time it can damage hoses, clamps, etc. (plastics and rubber) as it has strong solvents.

Hope this helps, if you have any other questions about cleaning engine bays do not hesitate to ask.

Sincerely,

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Old 09-18-2006, 04:40 AM   #1174
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i'd like to confirm something iw as told...


Glaze should be put on after a sealant and provides the best show finish shine, and that putting a high quality carnauba wax over a glaze does absolutely nothing in terms of shine and depth for show... i undrstand wax provides a slight bit of protection, but this is a question mainly for a show car.

Is this wrong? I'm very confused about the whole glaze/sealant/wax process and choices.

I am looking for two types of results for two cars: 1) A show car with very fresh paint to have the absolutely best show stopping shine and depth possible, and 2) a daily car w/ good to great quality paint that will need some protection but also want a top notch shine.


please advise, i'mabout to buy a big order and need HELP!
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:29 AM   #1175
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Glaze should be put on after a sealant and provides the best show finish shine, and that putting a high quality carnauba wax over a glaze does absolutely nothing in terms of shine and depth for show... i undrstand wax provides a slight bit of protection, but this is a question mainly for a show car.

I am looking for two types of results for two cars: 1) A show car with very fresh paint to have the absolutely best show stopping shine and depth possible, and 2) a daily car w/ good to great quality paint that will need some protection but also want a top notch shine.
Putting glazes on as a last step is an exhausted train of thought that was used by some "old school" detailers. Let me explain why it is not an effective way to detail a car.

A glaze is essentially a finishing polish that has oil and clay fillers. It's goal is to cling to the dips and valleys in the clear coat, helping fill in imperfections. When you seal the car, the sealant will put an even coating on the vehicle both on top of the clear coat and in the imperfections. Since sealants typically do not have as many fillers (if any at all), like a glaze, those imperfections will still remain as you seal in the vehicle. If you put the glaze on top of a sealant there will not be any imperfections for the glazes fillers (clay and oil) to cling to as the sealant has already sealed in the imperfections. Also, you will be jeopardizing the effectiveness of the sealant and ruin its durability and protection. If you left your vehicle like this, the second it would rain or you wash it the glaze fillers will wash right out since there is no layer of protection to protect the fillers.

Think of the opposite. Use a glaze first so that the clay and oil fillers can fill in those imperfections, then seal it in with a sealant. For a more detailed explaination please view our How-To Section for a visual representation of your clear coat as you go through each step of the process.

As far as the look is concerned different products can give you different finishes. Sealants typically will give you a more reflective, mirror like look some even will give you a plastic type look. Waxes on the other hand, typically give you a warmer, deeper and glossy look. Almost the look of hard candy or the commonly used term "wet look". So depending on which look you are going for you can tailor your detail to get the results you are looking for.

To answer the questions regarding the two cars I would suggest the following.

Show Car: Wash / Dry -> Clay Bar -> Finishing Polish (assuming being a new coat it doesn't need a cutting polish to remove scratches and swirls) -> Glaze -> Wax

One of my favorite combinations for a show car look is ClearKote Red Moose Glaze topped by Pinnacle Souveran. The glaze will help fill in and hide imperfections and improve gloss and depth, and Pinnacle Souveran is our best show car topper wax, which really excels on darker colored vehicles. Click here for more information on this combo.

Daily Driver: Wash / Dry -> Clay Bar -> Cutting Polish (if needed) -> Finishing Polish -> Sealant

Glaze and wax would be optional on the daily driver as durability will be more of a concern. If you wanted to take the time to do all of the steps, the glaze would come between the finishing polish and the sealant and the wax would be the last step.

If you have any other questions or would like product recommendations just say the word.

Look forward to hearing back from you.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:28 PM   #1176
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I just started a thread on this question. I should have posted here instead. I copied and pasted the question:

Hopefully someone could give me a hand here. How do you guys go about taking care of the black painted trim around the windows??

Do you wax it like you would the rest of the car? I have some spots that i can't get a smooth clean look from. Seem like oil marks in a sense. Thanks in advance for any help.

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Old 09-18-2006, 01:39 PM   #1177
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so no sealant on the show car and don't bother the glaze on the daily driver....

what would you suggest as a final last minute topper at a car show to give that final insane pop, wax or the glaze?
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:29 PM   #1178
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i've now been told that sealants will not bond to surfaces with oils (aka glazes) on them... ??????


i'm getting more and more confused by the second
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:42 PM   #1179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FABIO View Post
I just started a thread on this question. I should have posted here instead. I copied and pasted the question:

Hopefully someone could give me a hand here. How do you guys go about taking care of the black painted trim around the windows??

Do you wax it like you would the rest of the car? I have some spots that i can't get a smooth clean look from. Seem like oil marks in a sense. Thanks in advance for any help.

Fabio,

If its painted, treat it the same as you would paint. Clay and polish may help to rid imperfections and bring back a more uniformed look then protect as you would with a sealant or wax.

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so no sealant on the show car and don't bother the glaze on the daily driver....

what would you suggest as a final last minute topper at a car show to give that final insane pop, wax or the glaze?
As far as the show car goes, I personally love the look of carnauba waxes vs a sealant so at the show I would apply a coat or two of your favorite wax. If you are trying to go for the best and its a darker colored vehicle, Pinnacle Souveran is your answer. A little pricey but worth it for the warm glow, extroardinary gloss and depth and a very wet look. Personal favorite for show car prep. Additional coats, assuming you have allowed proper cure time between coats will add additional gloss and depth as the layer of wax gets thicker. Remember multiple thin coats spaced 12 - 24 hrs apart will yield maximum results (max of around 5 coats before reaching the point of diminishing returns).

Quote:
Originally Posted by playinJ30 View Post
i've now been told that sealants will not bond to surfaces with oils (aka glazes) on them... ??????

i'm getting more and more confused by the second
You are correct, however some sealants are designed to work with certain glazes, such as Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze + Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket. This is our common suggestion to fanatics who wish to go thru the entire process. We have done comparison tests with durability of FMJ with and without a glaze (more specifically FTG) and there is little to no durability sacrifice within 3 months time.

If you were looking at say ClearKote Red Moose Glaze you may run into bonding issues with certain sealants. It all depends on the products you are looking at. Vague Generalization: Sealants bond to the surface where a wax more or less sits on the surface. This is why its common to do a glaze than wax for shows.

I know this is a lot of info to digest and different detailers will have different opinions. Let me know if I can help clear anything else up for you.

George @ Detailed Image
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Old 09-18-2006, 04:07 PM   #1180
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I can attest to the Menzerna FTG and FMJ combination. I've found that a fantastic way to achieve a showcar finish is to go with FTG, then FMJ, and finally top it off with as many coats of Carnuba that your arm can take. I usually do the following process which was, I must say, perfected by the experts over at DI:

{{Wash Phase}}
Poorboys Super Slick Suds (Wash)
Zaino Claybar w/ Poorboys Spray & Wipe
Poorboys Super Slick Suds (Wash)
{{Paintwork Repair Phase}}
Poorboys SSR2.5 (Orange Pad)
Poorboys SSR2.5 (White Pad)
Poorboys SSR1 (White Pad)
P21S Paintwork Cleanser (White Pad)
{{Finishing Phase}}

Zaino Grande Finale Spray Wax (Hand)
Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze (Black Pad)
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (Black Pad)
Zaino Z9 Grande Finale Spray Wax (Hand)
Poorboys Natty's Blue Carnuba Paste (Hand) x 3

I promise that this process will yield fantastic, awe-inspiring results. Depending on the condition of your paint, you can choose to skip the SSR2.5, SSR1 and P21S. From the P21S onward, though, you're looking at a process that is going to provide unmatched dept and protection.
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