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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:13 PM   #1181
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My show car is going to be Silverstone II metallic, the bluish silver available on the M5 and M6.

I understand Souveran is particularly the best for a darker finish, what would you recommend on this silver finish? My daily is Olivin Green, an olive green color on an E60 545i... i'd probably want a wax that would be a good match for both. It seems hard to do wrong w/ Souveran, but it's also very pricey.


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Old 09-18-2006, 05:53 PM   #1182
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I detail cars, but im not a "serious detailer" i want to become alot better at what i do, what kinds of products should i buy? And what is the proper way to use a random orbital waxer?
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:41 PM   #1183
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Thank you George. i appreciate your help.
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Old 09-18-2006, 08:34 PM   #1184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playinJ30 View Post
My show car is going to be Silverstone II metallic, the bluish silver available on the M5 and M6.

I understand Souveran is particularly the best for a darker finish, what would you recommend on this silver finish? My daily is Olivin Green, an olive green color on an E60 545i... i'd probably want a wax that would be a good match for both. It seems hard to do wrong w/ Souveran, but it's also very pricey.


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Thank you for the compliment we take pride in our work here on this board. You asked a great question because silver does need its own set of products for best results. I'm not sure if you already have a sealant but I would recommend applying a coat first and then a coat of a carnauba wax. Carnauba waxes offer the deepest shine but are not nearly as protective and durable as a sealant. My favorite two step combination for silver (also will look great on the green) is the Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) and P21S Carnauba Wax. The FMJ is fantastic for protection and the P21S Carnauba Wax adds a great layer of gloss and depth. Do two coats for an even deeper shine.

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I detail cars, but im not a "serious detailer" i want to become alot better at what i do, what kinds of products should i buy? And what is the proper way to use a random orbital waxer?
I'm happy to hear your ready to take your detailing to the next level. We have the detailing information and products that can really make your paint pop. I highly recommend you read our "how to" page. It explains each step in the detailing process (of your clear coated surfaces) and provides a step by step guide of how to do it by hand or with a buffer. After you read about that let me know what steps you want to do and I'll advise you on what products will help you best achieve maximum results. Please let me know what other parts of the vehicle you would like to clean and protect like your leather, interior, wheels, glass, etc. Also a little information about the current state of your vehicle would really help me pick out the best products.

Thanks for posting and I look forward to hearing from you.

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Old 09-18-2006, 08:56 PM   #1185
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no glaze on silver?
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Old 09-19-2006, 10:25 AM   #1186
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Glazes are great, you can also add polish and clay bar if you want to make it a full detail. I kept my recommendation short, I wasn't sure how many steps you wanted to do. Clay bar is the first step that helps remove surface contamination. Polishes would be next, that help remove surface imperfections and add a deeper shine. On silver the results aren't as noticeable but still well worth it in my opinion. I really like to do the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II with the Porter Cable 7424. If you want to add a glaze I recommend the Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze. It adds a nice layer of gloss to the surface and helps hide imperfections. Then apply your sealants and waxes and the paint should look fantastic. Let me know if you want other recommendations for the paint or other parts of your vehicle (wheels, interior, leather, glass etc.)

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Old 09-19-2006, 12:07 PM   #1187
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thanks for the help, i am def going to buy some detailing clay, but what is the difference between Wax, cutting polish, finishing polish, glaze and sealants?
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:22 PM   #1188
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The differences between all these different steps is quite different. There is so much I would have to type here to explain that, that I think you would get a lot more from our site. I highly recommend you read our "How To" page that explains each step in this process and gives you a step by step guide. There is pictures there along with product recommendations to give you all the necessary info. If you have any questions after reading that I'd be happy to answer them for you.

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Old 09-19-2006, 05:45 PM   #1189
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Thanks, i used my random orbital waxer today on my black 323ci. it worked great, thanks for all the help! One last question, when you're waxing on with the buffer, what material should the pad be made of?
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Old 09-19-2006, 08:27 PM   #1190
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Excellent we're glad to hear the information on our How To page really helped. We have worked hard to provide valuable resources for our readers and customers.

As for the pads I really like foam pads from Lake Country Mfg. These are used very commonly on the Porter Cable 7424. If you want to remove swirls we have a more aggressive pad or if you want to apply a wax there is a nice soft pad, etc. These pads are particularly important for polishing to attain maximum results. In the How To section we explain what pads we recommend for each step, if you need more specefic advice, please let me know. Generic buffers typically use terry cloth bonnets that have several downsides. Terry Cloth can be too harsh for the clear coat and leave micro fine scratches in it. While doing the detail you often don’t notice these marks because the wax is covering them right away. However after detailing for years I’ve come to notice that terry cloths can harm the finish, especially as the bonnet becomes contaminated. Terry cloth is also very thin which can’t absorb contaminates that separate from clear coat during buffing. These contaminates can grind into the clear coat, where as foam pads can absorb contaminates into its 1inch thick pad. The foam pads are durable and can easily be cleaned so you get plenty of uses out of them.

Hope this information helped, sorry if it got a little off the topic. Let me know if you have other questions.

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Old 09-20-2006, 12:46 PM   #1191
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mine came with terry cloth, and wool, would the wool be a problem?
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Old 09-20-2006, 03:46 PM   #1192
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Cleaner Wax then Carnauba Topper?
I've used a cleaner wax (Zymol) about a month ago and have a carnauba topper (p21s concours) - should I just use it? Any intermediate steps besides washing necessary?

Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:40 PM   #1193
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Leather Care?

If my leather is in very very good condition what can you recommend besides the leatherique products (it seems this is more for damaged leather)?
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Old 09-20-2006, 09:09 PM   #1194
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If my leather is in very very good condition what can you recommend besides the leatherique products (it seems this is more for damaged leather)?
Prestine Clean, from Leatherique, is more of a maintenance product, the Rejuvenator Oil is more for restoring older leather. Lexol Leather Conditioner is a less expensive alternative that will give you great results in preserving your leather.

Let me know if you want me to go more in depth with any of the products.

Sincerely,

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Old 09-20-2006, 09:13 PM   #1195
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Originally Posted by Naz24
mine came with terry cloth, and wool, would the wool be a problem?
Wool is the most cutting material of them all. You would only use that on a medium to heavy cutting polish. Otherwise you may run into marring the finish by using too aggressive of a pad with a less aggressive product.

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Cleaner Wax then Carnauba Topper?
I've used a cleaner wax (Zymol) about a month ago and have a carnauba topper (p21s concours) - should I just use it? Any intermediate steps besides washing necessary?

Thanks!
You can certainly top the cleaner wax with the P21s Concours Carnauba Wax. Just keep in mind, next time you use the Zymol Cleaner Wax you will strip off any protection and will need to reapply the wax.

Let me know if you guys have any other questions.

Sincerely,

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Old 09-20-2006, 09:23 PM   #1196
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I'm still rather new at this, peicing two and two together and trying to make sense of some of your bundle packages available.

I don't know if this has been asked ->

If I use Poorboys swirl remover 1.0, is the Professional Polish needed?

If I use Poorboys swirl remover 1.0 and/or Professional Polish, will Klasse AIO on top strip off the swirl remover? Or do you recommend a Glaze (Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze) instead?

I plan on topping either off with some layers of Klasse Sealant. On top of that, that Natty Blue Paste Wax looks to be great since its a dark color (no white dots on my bumper/hood from chips). Is the Poorboys p21s a dark color as well?

I don't need a medium or heavy cutting polish, my paint doesn't have any extreme swirls or any that can be felt by the finger nails. Will Klasse AIO+sealant+Natty Blue Paste Wax be ok instead?

I have my own buffer, but its a single speed.
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:19 PM   #1197
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If I use Poorboys swirl remover 1.0, is the Professional Polish needed?
Not really, it would be one or the other. SSR 1 has minor abrasives in it to remove light surface imperfections while Pro Polish is a chemical polish and is a non-abrasive formula. Pro Polish would brighten the paint however would not remove imperfections unless used along with a buffer.

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If I use Poorboys swirl remover 1.0 and/or Professional Polish, will Klasse AIO on top strip off the swirl remover?
True polishes do not leave anything behind, when you wipe off the SSR 1, all you are looking at is the clear coat. AIO would have nothing to strip off it would provide a base for the sealant you'd put on next.

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Or do you recommend a Glaze (Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze) instead?
Depends what you are really going for. If you plan on Klasse AIO don't bother with a glaze. If you don't need to do the AIO step, which can be redundant when you polish with the SSR 1 and then plan on doing a true sealant on top, then a glaze in between would be a good option.

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I plan on topping either off with some layers of Klasse Sealant. On top of that, that Natty Blue Paste Wax looks to be great since its a dark color (no white dots on my bumper/hood from chips). Is the Poorboys p21s a dark color as well?
Great combo, just be prepared to put a little elbow grease in removing the Klasse Sealant. It can be a PITA at times to remove. Natty's blue is an excellent option as well as P21s. The major benefit of P21s is it will not stain trim as you apply it.

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I have my own buffer, but its a single speed.
Just make sure you are using quality pads to apply and remove by hand with a microfiber towel.

If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.

Sincerely,

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Old 09-21-2006, 12:28 PM   #1198
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how effective is Klasse AIO at removing light swirls?
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Old 09-21-2006, 01:11 PM   #1199
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Its really not too effective because its not designed to be a swirl remover. This is a chemical polish that leaves a layer of acrylic protection behind. This means that it will chemically polish the surface (seperate contaminates from clear coat0 and the sealant left behind protects the surface. To effectively remove swirls you really need a cutting polish, which basically means that you need tiny micro abrasives to smooth out the clear coat again. We highly recommend the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II with a Porter Cable 7424. If your doing it by hand the Poorboy's World SSR2.5 and SSR1.0 work great and can be used with a buffer as well. If you would like more information about these products and the buffer please let me know. For polishing especailly we recommend the PC 7424 because it provides more consistent heat and pressure, which ultimately gives you better results, using less time and energy. Look forward to hearing from you.

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Old 09-21-2006, 07:24 PM   #1200
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I have some bad waterspots, it rained just recently and wasnt around to wash it after. now i have an amazing amount of waterspots on my car that almost seem baked in. what would you suggest to remove the spots? i took pictures but you cant see too well the amount of spots or to the degree of how bad it is. The only way i can describe all the marks are like " ghosts of the water drops"
There is also some light scratches on my car from lovely people in my area they arent too deep it seems.

waterspots
you can see in this picture that the waterspots didnt show up in the pic, but you can see how the reflection of the tree is distorted - it almost looks blurry,swirly and a bit bumpy. the white dots all over the car is ash, there is a fire pretty close at the moment.

another shot

one of the scratches on the side of my car

thanks for your time
- Dgtl
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