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Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

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Old 01-05-2007, 01:02 PM   #1321
FABIO
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Thank you so much for your patience and detailed response.
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Old 01-06-2007, 01:14 AM   #1322
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question.. please help

im new to the site and had a few questions. Not sure if this is the right forum or thread to ask them in.i went to an auto show and i think i got suckered in to buying perma seal "the lazy mans wax" which is like a powder, i have no clue how to use it. Also, i picked up the perma seal hand glaze as well. It is suppose
to remove swirl marks and minor scratches. Would these products be same for bmw's paint and how would i use them correctly? Thank You.
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Old 01-06-2007, 01:23 AM   #1323
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sorry, just had a few more questions. my parents just bought me a 2000 bmw 323i. Im just trying to make it look brand new *if thats possible*. What are some cheap ways i can clean the carpet that are safe and does not leave spots? The swirl marks on the inside trim *the wood strips* are bothering me
are there any products that could help remove it and would high end italian leather sofa cleaner be ok for the car's leather? any products to help clean the rubber or vinyl on the door handles and the center console area? what else do you suggest to make the car interior and exterior look as new as possible or to make it look like it got detailed? sorry, just overly enthusiastic about my first car. Thank You.
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:39 AM   #1324
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Congrats on getting a sweet new ride! These products should be fine on the BMW pain, but you should contact the permaseal company to be sure. There is a comment on their site that would make me a little cautious - "Because of the variation of automotive paints, all finishes should be tested for compatibility before applying any car wax to the entire vehicle". I'm honestly not 100% sure how to use the powder. I looked over their website and there is very limited information. As for the hand glaze thats just a buff on and buff off product (detailed hand application directions here).

The leather care product should be fine on your seats. Most BMW seats are acutally leatherette (vinyl like material) but you treat these the same for the most part. Just to be safe test the cleaner on a non-visible area to test for color fastness. If you need a leather cleaner the Leatherique Prestine Clean is my favorite product for conditioning and cleaning.

Fine scratches on the wood trim can be an eyesore. I have used very light polishes to help buff out some of those fine scratches. Be very careful if you try this method and spot treat a small area first to make sure you're getting the desired results. Not sure if you want to try that poweder stuff here, I don't have experience with that. You can try the Menzerna Final Polish II, Poorboy's World SSR 1.0 or P21S PaintWork Cleanser.

For the interior I really like the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover. This product
is safe on carpets, vinyl, plastic and more. This one bottle will help you clean your carpets, dashboard, arm rests, doors, console area, etc. Its a powerful cleaner thats very safe to use. I can basically clean the whole interior and engine bay with this one bottle.

Let me know if you have any questions.

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Old 01-06-2007, 07:29 PM   #1325
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P.T. Barnum loved guys that buy at 'the show'.
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:27 PM   #1326
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i only found few reviews on it, and it seems...not that good.
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Old 01-07-2007, 06:38 PM   #1327
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Hey Greg,

Another question for you. First, thank you for the poorboy's EX-sealant, it is FANTASTIC!

Anyway, I just replaced my recently totalled 2003 330i Sport (which was in MINT- never snow'd shape) with a 2003 330i ZHP which was wintered unfortunately and has some serious body rash (well serious for a nut like me).

ANYWAY, my question is: what is the best way to get all that salty white build-up off the metal under the hood? I was able to reach some metal with my cleaning rag and wipe away the parts I could reach but the compartment really needs a cleaning...

Is it bad to spray down the inside engine compartment of a BMW? I think I read on a DIY somewhere some guy sprayed those parts with WD40 before spraying stuff down?

Thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2007, 10:01 AM   #1328
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If you can post a picture about what metal your referring to in specific that would be great. Some of the metal under the hood of BMW isn't polished or given a super smooth finish so its difficult to clean. As for the WD-40 it can have negative long term affects so I prefer to use a safer product like the 303 Aerospace Protectant. I'll post my entire engine detailing routine, which includes how I clean the metal below.

Instructions #1
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 Ė 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail.

2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they donít flood with water.

3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 3 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.

4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if avoidable. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.

5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean and the metals. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up.

6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 30 seconds to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.

7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything thatís rubber, vinyl and plastic thatís non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood.

8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.

Let me know if you have any questions!

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Old 01-08-2007, 01:54 PM   #1329
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Hi Greg. Just want to tell you that i placed and order for the Lake Country Hand applicator kit this morning. Thanks for all your helpful info.
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Old 01-11-2007, 10:45 PM   #1330
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thanks for the great info. BTW, why hasn't this been stickied?
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Old 01-12-2007, 09:27 AM   #1331
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It's micro fibre towel time!! Any package deals coming soon DI?
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:37 AM   #1332
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Sorry for the slow responses, I've been out of town for the last couple of days.

Fabio - Glad all the information has helped. I'm also glad you got that package okay. Let me know if you have any questions.

E46_SoKOR_328I - Good question, I think we'll ask the mods for that.

OneTime - I haven't done the specials yet for February so I can't honestly answer. We are giving away a free ultra plush towel with every order over $50 for the month of January. Also on Jan 31st we are giving away three 5x packs of ultra plush microfiber towels for free if you sign up for our newsletter. Its free to enter for anyone and the odds of winning are pretty good. Don't forget we give all forum members 10% off too. If you'd like to give us some suggestions on what you'd like to see for a February site special we're always here to listen.

Good to be back and thanks for the posts everyone!

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Old 01-16-2007, 04:15 PM   #1333
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I started to notice there is a small amount of wear on the corner of my front driver seat (right at the point on the side where you get into the car) im not sure but isn't there some type of product to revive the leather, using protiens or something??
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:07 PM   #1334
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Not 100% sure, but leatherique might take care of that.
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Old 01-16-2007, 07:12 PM   #1335
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If the surface is fading from friction then it may not be 100% repairable. If its just a little dry and faded then we should be able to revive it. You're absolutely right when leather gets exposed to the elements they loose proteins and other essential properties that keep leather looking and feeling its best. I would recommend using the Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean. The Rejuvenator uses a great blend of proteins and collagens that help restore the leather to like new. It may take multiple applications on damaged leather, but its a great leather restoring product. Then use the Prestine Clean to help clean the seats. I also use the Prestine Clean inbetween full details as a maintenance product that also has some conditioners in it. In the future try to get in and out without sliding across the seat. This will help reduce friction on the seat and prevent some creasing. Here is a link to our directions on how to get best results with the Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean. Also if your shipping address is in NY we should have the products to you in 1 business day.

Thanks for posting, let us know if you need any further help!

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Old 01-20-2007, 11:49 AM   #1336
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I just wanted to remind everyone that there is 11 days left on Detailed Image's contest and January site special (both end Jan 31, 2007). Detailed Image has the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant on sale for $9.99 (regularly $15.99) for the month of January only. This wheel sealant gives your wheels long lasting protection that helps prevent the build up of brake dust and makes future cleanings much easier. Also any purchase over $50 gets a free ultra plush microfiber towel.

Detailed Image also has a FREE contest for anyone to enter with no purchase necessary. On January 31st, 2007 Detailed Image will give away 3x five packs of ultra plush microfiber towels. These are some of the finest microfiber towels in the detailing industry that are completely clear coat safe. Sign up here today to be entered for this free give-away.


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Old 01-20-2007, 04:51 PM   #1337
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Hey Greg,

i have some light swirl marks on my paint that i want to get rid of. i've tried poor boy's SSR1 by hand, but it didn't seem to help. is there a harsher hand polishing compound i can use, or should i upgrade to an electric buffer (e.g. PC 7424). i've been reluctant to do the latter only because i've never used one before. i'm worried i might do more harm than good. if i do decide to get an electric buffer, do you have any tips for a first-time user? TIA
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Old 01-20-2007, 10:38 PM   #1338
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Good question, with hand applications its tough to generate consistent levels of heat and pressure to properly break down and work in a polish. Additionally the SSR 1.0 is a very light cutting polish, so we typically recommend you use the SSR 2.5 first and then follow it up with the SSR 1.0. You can try this method by hand and see if it gets you closer to your desired results. If not the Porter Cable 7424 is a fantastic machine that is perfect for new users that still want great results. Its quite safe to use and I've helped many first time users get outstanding results. There are really only two ways to harm the finish with the Porter Cable 7424, run a pad dry (aka not using enough polish) and throwing the buffer at the car.

Here is a write about the differences between hand applications and using a buffer like the Porter Cable 7424. Hand applications exert pressure primarily through your fingertips while a buffer typically uses a pad 6.5 inches in diameter. This much larger diameter allows you to move over an area quickly and easily. The pressure your arm will exert varies, especially when youíre doing multiple coats. Applying even pressure and coverage over the entire vehicle by hand is nearly impossible. The Porter Cable delivers consistent and smooth pressure at 2,500 Ė 6,000 OPS (orbits per minute). The Porter Cable uses a powerful 3.7 amp motor, which is incased in a dual-shock resistant casing. The oscillating motion of the Porter Cable 7424 is designed to replicate a hand buffing motion. It moves in a very tight figure eight like motion that canít be seen with the naked eye. This motion helps generate safe levels of heat that are necessary to break down products and work them into the clear coat. This is especially important to get the best results with cutting/abrasive polishes! Polishes need more passes and time in contact with clear coat to buff out scratches and other imperfections. Additionally polishes work into the surface better with a firmer pad and there are pads designed for the Porter Cable that help you achieve maximum results when polishing. The Porter Cable 7424 is extremely easy and safe to use even for those who have never detailed before. This is a super durable machine that you will be detailing with for years to come. This tool has revolutionized the capability of weekend detailers so you get professional like results with relative ease. In summary the Porter Cable 7424 will save you lots of time and energy while significantly improving your detailing results.

If you decide to get the buffer let me know and I'll PM you with instructions for how to best use it and answer any specefic questions. Or if you just want to read over the directions let me know and I'll send it over to you. Please let me know if you have any questions about this information.

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Old 01-21-2007, 10:21 AM   #1339
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baked on grease

Any suggestions for removing this stuff from under the hood. Car is white and while i have been able to get the engine cleaned up there are baked on yellow stains covering parts of the inner fenders. Looks like old grease or cosmoline. It will come off if you scrubb the hell out of it but i was hopong you might have tip or product that might make this easier. I have tried several degreasers and none help much.

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Old 01-21-2007, 10:49 AM   #1340
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Not sure I know extactly the problem but I'll do my best to answer the question. When I do an engine detail I'll typically use up to four different products (Poorboy's World Bio APC, P21S Finish Restorer, 303 Protectant, Klasse AIO). I use the Poorboy's World Bio APC to help loosen and remove grease and other contaminates on non-mechanical parts. Not sure if this degreaser will fair much better then others you have used but its worked quite well for me. I think after cleaning this up we should look in to preventing these yellow marks from forming. If this is a reocurring problem, not sure if its normal to see that much build up, maybe bring it up to a mechanic. You may also want to put the Klasse AIO or another sealant on any painted surfaces underneath the hood. The Klasse AIO is a sealant with long lasting protection and chemical polish to help clean the surface. You can use the Klasse AIO to help clean any painted or clear coated surface but I wouldn't use it on thick grease, its better at removing light surface contamination. If there is any vinyl, plastic or rubber surfaces (non-mechanical) then I would coat them with the 303 Aerospace Protectant. These products will help make future build-ups much easier to clean.

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