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Car Care & Detailing
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:45 PM   #1401
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i was using the 3x5 applicator pads. am i going to see much of a difference if I switch to the applicator kit?
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:15 PM   #1402
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It should definitely give you an improvement of results, however to truly correct the situation, you may want to seek a local detailer or purchase a buffer. Keep in mind removing haze can require multiple coats of each step to effectively remove wet sanding marks, whether you apply the product by hand or with a buffer. I'm assuming that you are applying light to medium pressure when working the product into the paint? It's not just a wipe on wipe off product. Just trying to cover everything to get you the best results.

Hope this helps.

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Old 03-06-2007, 12:07 PM   #1403
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Quote:
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If you let me know what products you'll be using I can outline a more exact routine.
okay i plan do the regular washes on the teflon. as far as protecting/cleaning from any swirls from the washes in between, what should i do?

im getting the PC and whatever polish/wax combo you reccommend.
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Old 03-06-2007, 01:50 PM   #1404
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There are a lot of great products out there that will help you protect the paint. I usually recommend getting a sealant because they are a little bit more durable then a wax. My favorite sealant is the Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ). It's super durable, very shiny, very slick, extremely easy to apply and remove and you only need about 1oz per coat. I would apply this three times a year or more for complete coverage and long lasting protection. Some other great sealants are the Klasse AIO, Poorboy's World Polish w/Sealant, Poorboy's World EX and EX-P. Let me know if you'd like more information on any of these products. I generally apply these products with the black finishing pad.

If you want to buff out swirls or strip the teflon you can apply the Menzerna Final Polish II after washing and before the FMJ. This polish will buff out fine swirls, brighten and smooth out the clear coat which helps the sealant bond to the clear coat. I apply this product with a white polishing pad.

As for the Porter Cable I'd recommend you get the Porter Cable Starter Kit and get any additional pads you may need individually. If you'd like to swap the standard white polishing pad out for a black finishing pad that is fine as well, just include a note with your order.

To really minimize swirls make sure you have a good washing and drying process/technique. This is the step when most swirls are added so its critical to have proper maintenance. I highly recommend you read our How To guide for washing and drying. We typically recommend a Sheepskin Wash Mitt, Waffle Weave Drying Towel(s) and a good automotive shampoo.

Please let me know if you have any other questions or need any other recommendations. Thanks for supporting Detailed Image and I look forward to getting you some of these great products.

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Old 03-06-2007, 02:59 PM   #1405
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thanks.

i dont want to strip the telfon, but give it a wax before it goes in again for reapplication to the dealer to keep the shine. what would you recommend?
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Old 03-06-2007, 05:26 PM   #1406
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My first recommendation would be to apply a sealant for durable protection. Here are some of sealants I use:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs View Post
My favorite sealant is the Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ). It's super durable, very shiny, very slick, extremely easy to apply and remove and you only need about 1oz per coat. I would apply this three times a year or more for complete coverage and long lasting protection. Some other great sealants are the Klasse AIO, Poorboy's World Polish w/Sealant, Poorboy's World EX and EX-P. Let me know if you'd like more information on any of these products. I generally apply these products with the black finishing pad.
You can add a carnauba wax like the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue for a really deep and glossy shine after as well. These carnauba waxes aren't as durable as the sealants but have a lot of shine. The carnauba wax also must be applied by hand. You can apply this after a sealant or by itself. I like to apply it after a sealant for extra protection but it's up to you.

I think you'll be really happy with any of these products. Please let me know if you have any questions.

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Old 03-07-2007, 06:33 PM   #1407
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thanks George. nice to speak to you again

do you know where i could purchase a Porter Cable in Norway? i think our voltages differ from american, so i can't purchase it from you
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:52 PM   #1408
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My car's covered in snow. What's the best way to get the snow off of it?

1. Let it sit in the sun and melt (any problem with water spots?).

2. Warm the car up to melt the underlayer of the snow and gently push it off (might create scratches).
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:44 AM   #1409
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thanks George. nice to speak to you again

do you know where i could purchase a Porter Cable in Norway? i think our voltages differ from american, so i can't purchase it from you
I'm not sure what distributors would have the appropriate Porter Cable for your voltage. Do you have converters for the American plug method? Sorry I can't be of more help.

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My car's covered in snow. What's the best way to get the snow off of it?

1. Let it sit in the sun and melt (any problem with water spots?).

2. Warm the car up to melt the underlayer of the snow and gently push it off (might create scratches).
Removing winter snow is always risky and there is no fool proof right method. Ideally the best method would be to do nothing or just start your vehicle and let it all melt away. However most of us donít have the time for this so I try to use a method that minimizes the risk of adding fine scratches to the clear coat. As soon as you get out to your car start it, so the engine can get warm and start helping to melt away the snow. When the snow is heavy I will use a removal brush to remove snow 1 inch above the painted surface. I refuse to drag the brush against my paint, because all artificial bristles can easily scratch the clear coat. I let the engine warm up for about 10 minutes and hope the rest melts away fast. After it melts you can drive it around to help water run off the surface. Watermarks are usually not a big issue from snow because it typically won't etch in to the clear coat as much as hose water. Additionally there is not as much sun out if there if snow is around to warm up the clear coat and help the etching process. This is not to say you won't have any watermarks but its less likely.

I also recommend using a sealant to protect your paint in the winter months. Sealants help prevent the build up of moisture and offer more resistance to abrasions compared to natural waxes. For the winter months I'll put at least two or three coats on my vehicle. You can also use pure sealant on your glass which helps prevent ice from forming and forces moisture to form ultra fine beads for easy to see through glass. I typically use the Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket for my paint (can be used on glass, headlights) and I use the Rain Clear Kit to deep clean the glass and protect it during the winter months.

Sidenote: Always use safety first and make sure you have removed enough snow to drive safely and not put yourself and others at risk

I hope this answered your question, let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.

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Old 03-14-2007, 01:59 PM   #1410
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Thanks Greg for the detailed answer. I ended up just letting it sit in the sun. No watermarks.

Greg, just sent you a PM for a quick question.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:21 PM   #1411
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Glad to hear there were no watermarks. I responded to your PM, let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you.

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Old 03-14-2007, 10:41 PM   #1412
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Greg,

I have seen spotlesswatersystems.com advertised in Bimmer magazine. Starting at $250 you can get a deionized water system so that you never need to dry your car again.

What is your take on this? to me, it seems well worth $250 to never have to dry my car, risking scratches or water spots

thanks
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:16 AM   #1413
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Greg,

I have seen spotlesswatersystems.com advertised in Bimmer magazine. Starting at $250 you can get a deionized water system so that you never need to dry your car again.

What is your take on this? to me, it seems well worth $250 to never have to dry my car, risking scratches or water spots

thanks
I wouldn't look at a product like this as something to replace drying, look at it more as a safety precaution. It's a similar concept to Mr. Clean Auto Dry and that certainly doesn't replace drying your vehicle.

Having purified or deionized water is a great tool to have, especially if you have hard water, but I wouldn't look at it as replacement for drying your vehicle. When using the proper drying techniques, its not as bad of a process as most people make it out to be. Flooding the surface after your rinse off the shampoo will greatly cut down on your drying time (remove the spray nozzle and let the water flow freely on the vehicle from the top down).

Hope that helps.

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Old 03-15-2007, 04:48 PM   #1414
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What should I use on the exterior plastic moldings and trim pieces to keep them from fading and hardening? Is Aerospace 303 good enough?
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Old 03-15-2007, 05:46 PM   #1415
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What should I use on the exterior plastic moldings and trim pieces to keep them from fading and hardening? Is Aerospace 303 good enough?
Yes this will properly protect and rejuvenate exterior as well as interior trim. It also works great as an engine bay dressing and a low gloss / matte tire dressing.

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Old 03-16-2007, 09:36 AM   #1416
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I was in Italy several years ago and leather specialist introduced me to Nivea hand creame for a conditioner on car seats. She said it's a very popular product in Italy for all types of leather.

Since this is the leather capital of the world, I figured she knew what she was talking about, so I tried it. I first used it on my leather motorcycle jackets...not only did it work but it help with water resistance. Since then I've use it all all leather including my leather automoblie seats, mostly my Vettes. But most of my leather seats have been on newer cars, so it I didn't know how well Nivea would work with old worn leather.

Well, recently I bought a 2000 328ci and I don't think the leather has ever been conditioned. It was in bad shape, to say the least. I've applied Nivea twice and the difference is unreal! I can't recommend this stuff enough.

George, have you heard anyone using this hand creame?
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Old 03-16-2007, 09:46 AM   #1417
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I have not heard of this leather product, until now. Thank you for sharing your experience with this product, I look forward to trying it. I'll have to do a little research on it and give it a try. I've heard of this product as a product applied to human skin, is it the same product? I'm always interested in trying new products, methods, etc. Thanks again.

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Old 03-16-2007, 10:06 AM   #1418
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I have not heard of this leatherI've heard of this product as a product applied to human skin, is it the same product?
Yes, exact same product that's found at your local Wal-Mart.
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Old 03-16-2007, 02:00 PM   #1419
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..interesting
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:55 PM   #1420
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Scuffed Wheels. aka Road Rash

Sorry in advance if this has already been covered. I did a search in the thread, but wasn't able to find anything relevant. If this does already exist some where, please just send me a link.

My question: I grinded up on the curb while parking and scratched the rim up a little. My M3 has the factory 18" rims and I wanted to know if it is possible to repair.

1. What products should I use?
2. What type and grain sand paper should I use and what grain should I work up to?
3. Once done with the sanding, what should I use to finish the polish?
4. If I decided not to repair myself, are there shops that do?

Basically, I need the products and the steps invloved to fix. Thanks again and any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
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