E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Car Care & Detailing

Car Care & Detailing
Get detailing answers and tips here

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 40 votes, 5.00 average.
Old 03-19-2007, 03:35 PM   #1421
Detailed Image
Sponsor
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 688
My Ride: Audi S4
Send a message via AIM to Detailed Image
Quote:
Originally Posted by g.unit View Post
Sorry in advance if this has already been covered. I did a search in the thread, but wasn't able to find anything relevant. If this does already exist some where, please just send me a link.

My question: I grinded up on the curb while parking and scratched the rim up a little. My M3 has the factory 18" rims and I wanted to know if it is possible to repair.

1. What products should I use?
2. What type and grain sand paper should I use and what grain should I work up to?
3. Once done with the sanding, what should I use to finish the polish?
4. If I decided not to repair myself, are there shops that do?

Basically, I need the products and the steps invloved to fix. Thanks again and any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
GregR
This is one of the best guides I've found...

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext43.shtml

Let me know how it turns out.

George @ Detailed Image
__________________

Wash & Dry Products, Clay Bars, Polishes, Sealants, and Waxes
10offe46 - Discount Code for 10% Off for e46fanatics members
Detail University - Detailing Enthusiast Discussion Forum
Detailed Image is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2007, 09:11 PM   #1422
SilvaBimma
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Raleigh, Cary, Durham, NC
Posts: 577
My Ride: 330Xi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
This is one of the best guides I've found...

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/ext43.shtml

Let me know how it turns out.

George @ Detailed Image
Since that article by NASA Racer on Audiworld was completely plagiarized, Here's a better resolution version:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/realwhda.html

(No offense to you Detailed Image) Article is good, be sure to cover & be patient in a very clean environment.
SilvaBimma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 10:27 AM   #1423
Detailed Image
Sponsor
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 688
My Ride: Audi S4
Send a message via AIM to Detailed Image
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaBimma View Post
Since that article by NASA Racer on Audiworld was completely plagiarized, Here's a better resolution version:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/realwhda.html

(No offense to you Detailed Image) Article is good, be sure to cover & be patient in a very clean environment.
SilvaBimma,

While they are usually a source of detialing information this article was originally posted by NASAracer on AudiWorld as noted in the top of the article on Autopia and on each of the pictures.

George @ Detailed Image
__________________

Wash & Dry Products, Clay Bars, Polishes, Sealants, and Waxes
10offe46 - Discount Code for 10% Off for e46fanatics members
Detail University - Detailing Enthusiast Discussion Forum
Detailed Image is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 08:48 PM   #1424
silvergray
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 750
My Ride: 325i
I'm sure this has been asked a million times, but do you have any recommendations on microfiber care? Like how to get them a bit softer again.

Also, what do you use to clean foam buffing pads?

Haha, finally, in your opinion, how does OHC compare to PG? Which is more agressive? I've been thinking about picking up some PG but I don't want anything more agressive than OHC for my BMW

Thanks!
__________________
silvergray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 09:03 PM   #1425
m002
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 384
My Ride: Mmmmm
Greg, you told me to mix 8:1 for cleaning the interior on the 303aero space cleaner. But I just read the lable and it said 30:1 mix. Which one is it because it's a big difference compare to yours. thanks
__________________
I will swallow those AMG!!
m002 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 09:36 AM   #1426
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,047
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by silvergray View Post
I'm sure this has been asked a million times, but do you have any recommendations on microfiber care? Like how to get them a bit softer again.

Also, what do you use to clean foam buffing pads?

Haha, finally, in your opinion, how does OHC compare to PG? Which is more agressive? I've been thinking about picking up some PG but I don't want anything more agressive than OHC for my BMW

Thanks!
The microfiber towels can be washed in your regular washing machine with a detergent like Tide, etc. There are some microfiber specific cleaning/rejuvenating formulas but my distributor of microfiber products says they are really not that different from a regular cleaner. I don't know of any product that will really make them softer, I think that would be from just normal wear and tear. Don't use any fabric softener and try not to excessively dry the material if you put them in a dryer. They will last longer if you let them air dry but I typically put mine in the dryer. I try to put them in the minimum amount of time that will still dry the towels on a low setting. I also recommend storing them in a container/bag where contaminates canít get at the towel.

You can clean buffing pads with dish liquid and water. I typically use the Snappy Clean Packets which is a citrus degreaser that works quite well. I just put the pads in a bucket, fill it with water and a packet of the cleaner. I let it sit for about ten minutes then I massage the pad and break up any build-ups. Let it sit for another 5+ minutes in the bucket, thoroughly rinse and air dry after.

The answer to this question may vary depending on what pads and type of buffer (rotary/orbital) you're using. The OHC and Power Gloss (PG) from Menzerna are both great products. For anyone unfamiliar with Power Gloss it would be the step used before the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II if you want more cutting power. The Power Gloss is probably less aggressive in my experiences. Menzerna typically uses a finer sized cutting particle so it finishes down smoother. When I use the OHC it's typically followed by at least two or more polishes to restore the surface. When I use the Power Gloss I'm confident that two steps (IP and FPII) will buff out any haze. In summary I think the Power Gloss is less aggressive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m002 View Post
Greg, you told me to mix 8:1 for cleaning the interior on the 303aero space cleaner. But I just read the lable and it said 30:1 mix. Which one is it because it's a big difference compare to yours. thanks
I typically clean with an 8:1 ratio of the 303 Fabric Cleaner. According to the manufacturer you can use it at full strength or dilute it up to 30:1. I've used it full strength and diluted it up to a 10:1 ratio and it worked well. I have yet to try it as a cleaner at 30:1 ration. I think it would still work relatively well but maybe just have less cutting power on more difficult build ups. You can try the higher ratio and let us know what you think. In summary I think you'll be okay with either mix I just prefer the stronger cutting power of the 8:1 ratio. Let us know what you decide and how it works for you.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 09:40 AM   #1427
4th-n-1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 713
My Ride: E92 335i
Send a message via AIM to 4th-n-1 Send a message via MSN to 4th-n-1
What is the best way to clean wheels? Also is there a way to maintin the "new look" of alcantara? Mine is getting very dirty.
4th-n-1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 10:14 AM   #1428
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,047
My Ride: is clean & protected
Best way to clean wheels depends on what kind of wheels you have and a lot of personal preference. Since I don't know what wheels you have I'll tell you about what products I think are easiest to work with. I recommend washing the wheel at least once a month with the P21S Metal Polishing Soap which will clean and polish the wheel. This will help release contaminates safely without grinding them into the wheel. Additionally this product helps polish the wheel so you get a great shine. To apply the P21S Metal Polishing Soap just wet the supplied applicator sponge and wipe it across the soap and you'll have a generous lather of polishing soap. Then just wipe the wheels with light to medium pressure. If your wheels are not aluminum or uncoated you can use the Poorboy's World Spray & Rinse. This is a slightly acidic wheel cleaner like many wheel cleaners that works extremely well at removing road grime, brake dust and more with ease. This can be a very simple and quick to use product that works great. After you're done cleaning with either product rinse down the wheels with a steady stream of water. I recommend drying the wheel with a nice clean microfiber towels to prevent watermarks from hard water. Microfiber towels are safe to use on cleaned surfaces and won't add scratches. After cleaning the wheel I would then protect it (especially the lip if applicable). I really like the durable protection of the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. This sealant is highly resistant to high temperature brake dust, road grime, etc. The sealant makes future cleanings much easier and helps prevent damage. It applies and removes nice and easy for quick protection that will keep the wheels looking great. Apply this with a microfiber applicator and remove with a clean microfiber towel. Now your wheels are very clean, well protected and looking their best.

Alcantara is basically ultra suede and it should be cared for regularly if possible to keep it looking new. The first thing we do is brush the fabric with a clean soft nylon brush going the same direction as the nap. This helps brush out dust, contaminates, etc and show where stains and pilling is. If there is any pilling of the material you can carefully remove them with a single sided razor blade. If there are stains or build ups you want to remove you can lightly spray a fabric cleaning solution on the area. We typically use the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover or the 303 Fabric Cleaner diluted to 8:1 or more. I lightly spray the affected area and gently brush the surface. Make sure the surface is in a well vented area that can help the material dry. You do not want the surface to remain wet for extended periods of time. Let me know if you have other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 01:57 AM   #1429
thesfactor
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Austin, tx
Posts: 205
My Ride: E46 '04 325i
Hey Gregs, I have a question. I found a rock chip on my hood and its really tiny but ate into the paint. Can I fix it with a detailing pen from the dealer? Is this going to be a costly fix? I know a pic will say a thousand words but I tried taking a pic of it with my cellphone but it turned out worse than it actually is. I'll try and take a better pic soon...
thesfactor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 10:34 AM   #1430
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,047
My Ride: is clean & protected
The answer really depends on the size of the rock chip and your touch up skills. I'm not a touch up expert, so you might want to contact the pen mfg for more specifics.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 11:39 AM   #1431
EdenResident
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vienna, VA
Posts: 283
My Ride: 2005 Jet Black M3
Should I wash my waffle weave drying towel after everytime I use it? I guess to be safe, I should wash it anyway. It seems to be pretty clean though, considering it's only used to dry a clean car.
__________________
EdenResident is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 11:53 AM   #1432
derek80
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Home
Posts: 2,698
My Ride: is optically clear
you sure can.
If you have multiple WW towels, just rinse them out in the sink, keep them in a bag until you have enough WW towels to wash.
derek80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 01:13 PM   #1433
EdenResident
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vienna, VA
Posts: 283
My Ride: 2005 Jet Black M3
Thanks derek.
__________________
EdenResident is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 01:38 PM   #1434
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,047
My Ride: is clean & protected
You don't have to wash the Waffle Weaves or other microfiber every time but it's safer to wash them more frequently. If you can effectively remove more contamination while washing you'll be less likely have contaminates in your Waffle Weave towel.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 04:24 PM   #1435
THATS FRESH
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 3,668
My Ride: SSHNIPER
Send a message via AIM to THATS FRESH Send a message via Skype™ to THATS FRESH
whats the best way to clean the door jambs and the like (hinges, ///m emblem near the runner?)
__________________
THATS FRESH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007, 04:38 PM   #1436
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,047
My Ride: is clean & protected
If you have grease and heavy build ups you can use a cleaner like the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover or the Poorboy's World Bio-APC. These will cut through the grease and help remove heavy build ups. After that or if you don't have that problem I'll usually spray the area down with a quick detailer (Poorboy's World Spray and Wipe) and wipe it down with some of my older microfiber towels. I usually do this right after drying because there always seems to be some water there too that I can wipe up.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2007, 04:04 PM   #1437
thesfactor
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Austin, tx
Posts: 205
My Ride: E46 '04 325i
Dear Greg,
I was wondering what the easiest way to remove bird poop on the car. Do I have to do this while washing the car or is there a spray on that I can buy to remove it by spraying and using a ww mf towel?
thesfactor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2007, 07:00 AM   #1438
dakotadriver
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 73
My Ride: 2003 325 xiT
New Turtle Wax Ice Liquid Clay Bar

I've used clay bar products in the past with great success. Turtle wax has introduced a liquid version of the clay bar. I was wondering if it would be as good as a traditional clay bar?
dakotadriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2007, 10:04 AM   #1439
silvergray
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 750
My Ride: 325i
Thanks Greg! I appreciate the help!

Silvergray
__________________
silvergray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2007, 02:23 PM   #1440
Greg@DetailedImage.com
Clean Shine Protect Expert
 
Greg@DetailedImage.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 6,047
My Ride: is clean & protected
Quote:
Originally Posted by thesfactor View Post
Dear Greg,
I was wondering what the easiest way to remove bird poop on the car. Do I have to do this while washing the car or is there a spray on that I can buy to remove it by spraying and using a ww mf towel?
Are the dropping still on the car or are you referring to the etching in the clear coat?

If the droppings are on the car we recommend to get rid of it ASAP by washing. You can run a continuous stream of water on the droppings to help break it up and if needed use a pre-wash degreaser like the P21S Auto Wash or the Poorboy's World Bug Squash. These products will help break up the droppings to be rinsed away. Just spray the affected area and let the product sit for a couple minutes, then just rinse. This should eliminate the droppings, if any remains try to clean it while washing. Thoroughly rinse your washing mitt/sponge after.

If the droppings have etched in to your clear coat then you'll probably need some polishes to buff them out. Let us know if this is the case and we discuss what polishes might work best.

Greg @ Detailed Image

Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotadriver View Post
I've used clay bar products in the past with great success. Turtle wax has introduced a liquid version of the clay bar. I was wondering if it would be as good as a traditional clay bar?
There are many liquid clay bars out there like the one you listed, we also carry the Diamondite Speed Clay. These products to me seem more like chemical polishes that are sometimes used with honeycombed sponges to help remove contaminates. They help chemically separate or loosen contaminates to be wiped away. This can help but I believe a traditional clay bar is more effective. I think a solid clay bar can work in to the micro ridges of the clear coat much better. It may also be a safer method because the bar is soft and is less likely to grind contaminates in to the clear coat, depending on the spray clays applicator. Neither method is fool proof but generally I think a clay bar is safer and more effective. I have not tried the product you referenced so I can't speak about that one specifically but my comments were general statements about spray clays. Both can be good tools, just depends on what your personal preference is.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg@DetailedImage.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use