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Old 05-07-2007, 11:02 AM   #1481
///McKinzie
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Thank you Gregs and also thanks for remembering me! Among other products I ordered from you last time the 303 Convertible Top protectant works amazingly well! Thank you.
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Old 05-07-2007, 02:55 PM   #1482
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Hello
I just finished detailing with my rotory buffer and I tok my car out to the sun and founbd hologram on my bumper. I usually use a white pad and mild polisher to get it off. But this time it didn't work. Can you give me another advice how to get it off? Thanks
Hmmm....it sounds like you have some standard holograms but unfortunately they didn't come off with your normal follow up routine. Can you please outline what products and pads you used with what application method? This will help me understand what tools you have, how they were used and what you'll need to fix the problem. Also is it just on the bumper? After I have that information we should be able to help you fix the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///McKinzie View Post
Thank you Gregs and also thanks for remembering me! Among other products I ordered from you last time the 303 Convertible Top protectant works amazingly well! Thank you.
I do my best to remember people, names, etc. but it's hard at times. I'm glad to hear the 303 convertible top protectant worked well for you. It's definitely important to clean and protect any convertible top on some sort of regular basis. Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help you.

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Old 05-07-2007, 08:41 PM   #1483
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Originally Posted by Gregs View Post
Hmmm....it sounds like you have some standard holograms but unfortunately they didn't come off with your normal follow up routine. Can you please outline what products and pads you used with what application method? This will help me understand what tools you have, how they were used and what you'll need to fix the problem. Also is it just on the bumper? After I have that information we should be able to help you fix the problem.
Gregs, I use the Makita 9227 polisher. Poorboy SSR2.5 on Orange pad. Then Menzerna final touch on White pad. Tell you the truth, the part where the top of the M3 emblem is very shiny also. I'm sure if it's a shine or hologram.LOL. Thanks again.
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:26 PM   #1484
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What it is the best lightning to use while detaling? I always wash/detail in the shade because there is no other way I can get all the cords outside. But I do have a garage with lights in it. So I was wondering what is the best type of lights to buy that would show all the swirl marks and scratches. Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2007, 10:00 AM   #1485
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Gregs, I use the Makita 9227 polisher. Poorboy SSR2.5 on Orange pad. Then Menzerna final touch on White pad. Tell you the truth, the part where the top of the M3 emblem is very shiny also. I'm sure if it's a shine or hologram.LOL. Thanks again.
It's difficult to say what will definitely work but you may want to try applying the SSR 2.5 by hand or with a clean white polishing pad. Then follow that up with a pass with the Menzerna Final Polish II (I assume this is what you meant here). Or you could try a more aggressive pass with just the Final Polish II to try and buff out the haze. The main thing I would probably stay away from is another pass with the orange pad and SSR 2.5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by r3v1ls View Post
What it is the best lightning to use while detaling? I always wash/detail in the shade because there is no other way I can get all the cords outside. But I do have a garage with lights in it. So I was wondering what is the best type of lights to buy that would show all the swirl marks and scratches. Thanks.
I typically recommend that people wash outside and then work in a garage if possible. The garage will provide shade and help prevent dust from landing on the vehicle. I find the correct lighting to be essential to a good detail. Poor lighting can make a high quality detail nearly impossible. I like to work under halogen or florescent lighting whenever possible. These lights tend to show imperfections, haze, streaks and contaminates better than traditional bulbs. At this time of year hardware stores usually have good deals on some light stands too. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Old 05-08-2007, 11:46 AM   #1486
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Gregs -- I was wondering if you could help me out with something? The moronic owner before me used some contact cement to try and repair some trim and he got some on the leather seats. I was wondering if there was a product that could help get it off of the seats? Thanks for any info you culd pass along.
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Old 05-08-2007, 12:45 PM   #1487
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Hmmmmmm...... I have yet to come across this problem or something similar so I don't know if I can definitely help. Can you please take a picture of the cement/seat and post that so I can better understand the current situation. I'm not sure if this is something that I can help you fix but it's worth at least trying.

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Old 05-08-2007, 01:05 PM   #1488
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I just wanted to say thanks and that this is a great thread. Just detailed my car with the help of all this info.

wash
clay bar
Poorboys 2.5
Poorboys 1
Menzerna glaze
wax

Thanks to detailed image for the poorboys and menzerna. Used Meguiar's clay bar kit since a friend already has it.

Thanks again
nam
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Old 05-08-2007, 01:12 PM   #1489
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Hmmmmmm...... I have yet to come across this problem or something similar so I don't know if I can definitely help. Can you please take a picture of the cement/seat and post that so I can better understand the current situation. I'm not sure if this is something that I can help you fix but it's worth at least trying.

Greg @ Detailed Image
I'll take a pic when I get home from work and PM them to you.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:08 PM   #1490
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It's difficult to say what will definitely work but you may want to try applying the SSR 2.5 by hand or with a clean white polishing pad. Then follow that up with a pass with the Menzerna Final Polish II (I assume this is what you meant here). Or you could try a more aggressive pass with just the Final Polish II to try and buff out the haze. The main thing I would probably stay away from is another pass with the orange pad and SSR 2.5.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Thanks Greg. I heard that from a bodyshop that you can not get rid of hologram , only hide it. Is that true?
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Old 05-08-2007, 10:07 PM   #1491
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I typically recommend that people wash outside and then work in a garage if possible. The garage will provide shade and help prevent dust from landing on the vehicle. I find the correct lighting to be essential to a good detail. Poor lighting can make a high quality detail nearly impossible. I like to work under halogen or florescent lighting whenever possible. These lights tend to show imperfections, haze, streaks and contaminates better than traditional bulbs. At this time of year hardware stores usually have good deals on some light stands too. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I generally wash outside and then pull in because I got a garage vacuum and and air compressor inside. Could you be more specific on the type of lightning such as the intensity of it?

Also on another note, my dad recently purchased one of those pressure washer machines and it has made washing the car, especially the rims a breeze. My only concern is if it could possibly be stripping the Zaino coats of it. Since Zaino coats last for a very long time, I only re-apply them ever 2-3 month, but I've been wondering if this could be stripping it. It doesn't seem to be much stronger than a regular garden spray nozzle and the only part of the car that I seriously focus on for an extended time are the wheels.
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:09 PM   #1492
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What's the difference between a glaze and a sealant? Does a glaze fill the pores of the clearcoat better or something?
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Old 05-10-2007, 02:09 PM   #1493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elman1211 View Post
I just wanted to say thanks and that this is a great thread. Just detailed my car with the help of all this info.

wash
clay bar
Poorboys 2.5
Poorboys 1
Menzerna glaze
wax

Thanks to detailed image for the poorboys and menzerna. Used Meguiar's clay bar kit since a friend already has it.

Thanks again
nam
Nam,

I'm very happy to hear that the detail came out great. Let me know if I can help you any more in the future. We appreciate your support and look forward to hearing from you again!

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Old 05-10-2007, 02:14 PM   #1494
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Thanks Greg. I heard that from a bodyshop that you can not get rid of hologram , only hide it. Is that true?
It depends on the situation. First off I guess I should define what I think of holograms as. Typically you get a hologram when too much heat builds up from rotary buffers. It's something in the right lighting you can see it easily if you're looking for it and in poor lighting you'd never see it. Assuming we're referring to the same thing you typically can buff or wetsand them out. You may have to use more aggressive polishes and do multiple passes with lighter polishes after but it is something you can remove in time. Worst case a light wet sanding should be able to help the situation. Let me know if you'd like some specific advice on what polishes/pads you may want to try.

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Old 05-10-2007, 02:28 PM   #1495
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Originally Posted by r3v1ls View Post
I generally wash outside and then pull in because I got a garage vacuum and and air compressor inside. Could you be more specific on the type of lightning such as the intensity of it?

Also on another note, my dad recently purchased one of those pressure washer machines and it has made washing the car, especially the rims a breeze. My only concern is if it could possibly be stripping the Zaino coats of it. Since Zaino coats last for a very long time, I only re-apply them ever 2-3 month, but I've been wondering if this could be stripping it. It doesn't seem to be much stronger than a regular garden spray nozzle and the only part of the car that I seriously focus on for an extended time are the wheels.
I really like using flood lights on stands, two sets seem to work well for me that are 500W+. Sears had some decent ones for $19.99 a piece.

The pressure washer has the potential to strip off layers of protection, but regular washing does too. The more pressure you use the more likely you can remove some layers. I typically recommend standing at least 4 - 8 feet away from the vehicle and use the washer at an angle. Spraying the vehicle at an angle, and not directly right in front of you, decreases the force of the water and dissipates it's pressure. Typically you don't want the force of the water to be the factor that separates the contamination from the clear coat. As the sealant fades the top layers become lose and will wash away or evaporate in time. I think the pressure washer has the potential to accelerate this process, but it shouldn't totally strip the sealant. It's impossible for me to accurately say how fast the sealant is being depleted with your washing technique but it's something you can monitor yourself. Just mist some water on the clear coat occasionally after washing to see if it's still beading. I'd recommend studying that for a little while for you to gauge how long the protection is lasting. Then you can figure out how often the sealant should be re-applied.

I hope this helps you better understand your washing process and gives you more insight on what I would do. Please let me know if you have any other questions I can help you with.

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Old 05-10-2007, 03:12 PM   #1496
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What's the difference between a glaze and a sealant? Does a glaze fill the pores of the clearcoat better or something?
Tough to say mainly because many manufacturer's misuse these terms in my opinion. Therefore you may have to investigate some products to really understand what they do despite their name. I personally define a glaze a product designed to fill in surface imperfections and reflect the surrounding paint. For fine imperfections it should be enough to hide them from the naked eye. Often times glazes contain oils and fillers to help hide imperfections. Often times dealerships will use glazes so people can't easily see imperfections.

A pure sealant will protect your clear coat and enhance the shine. Sealants are created in labs to replicate what waxes do but better. Basically by removing elements that don't add to the shine, protection or ease of use it should theoretically create a better product. It depends on what your detailing goals are but generally sealants are an essential part to protecting your vehicle.

There are many variations of glazes and sealants that mix in polishes, wax, etc. To read more about any step in the exterior detailing process you can ask me or read our How To section. The detailing How To section we created has lots of great information that can explain each step in more detail.

Please let me know if you have other questions I can help you with.

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Old 05-10-2007, 05:47 PM   #1497
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It depends on the situation. First off I guess I should define what I think of holograms as. Typically you get a hologram when too much heat builds up from rotary buffers. It's something in the right lighting you can see it easily if you're looking for it and in poor lighting you'd never see it. Assuming we're referring to the same thing you typically can buff or wetsand them out. You may have to use more aggressive polishes and do multiple passes with lighter polishes after but it is something you can remove in time. Worst case a light wet sanding should be able to help the situation. Let me know if you'd like some specific advice on what polishes/pads you may want to try.

Greg @ Detailed Image
What do you suguest to use on pad and product to get rid of some hologram Greg?
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Old 05-10-2007, 10:12 PM   #1498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregs View Post
Tough to say mainly because many manufacturer's misuse these terms in my opinion. Therefore you may have to investigate some products to really understand what they do despite their name. I personally define a glaze a product designed to fill in surface imperfections and reflect the surrounding paint. For fine imperfections it should be enough to hide them from the naked eye. Often times glazes contain oils and fillers to help hide imperfections. Often times dealerships will use glazes so people can't easily see imperfections.

A pure sealant will protect your clear coat and enhance the shine. Sealants are created in labs to replicate what waxes do but better. Basically by removing elements that don't add to the shine, protection or ease of use it should theoretically create a better product. It depends on what your detailing goals are but generally sealants are an essential part to protecting your vehicle.

There are many variations of glazes and sealants that mix in polishes, wax, etc. To read more about any step in the exterior detailing process you can ask me or read our How To section. The detailing How To section we created has lots of great information that can explain each step in more detail.

Please let me know if you have other questions I can help you with.

Greg @ Detailed Image
Thank you, that was exactly the kind of response I was looking for

I think I will be placing a large order with you guys soon...I'm planning to do a full claybar/polish/sealant/wax job in late June. The list of things I have right now is as follows:

PC buffer
Lake Country Pads + Snappy clean
Clay MagicFine Grade 200g clay bar + Quick Detailer
SSR 2.5
SSR 1
Menzerna FTG
Menzerna FMJ
Natty's Blue Paste Wax

Great site guys!
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Old 05-11-2007, 10:13 AM   #1499
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What do you suguest to use on pad and product to get rid of some hologram Greg?
Hard to say because I know you have the SSR 2.5 and Menzerna Final Polish II. However, I think the easiest solution is to try the Menzerna Intensive Polish with an orange pad, followed by the Menzerna Intensive Polish with a white pad, then the Final Polish II with a white pad. You could try the SSR 2.5 and a white pad but it may not cut enough. I've had better luck getting haze out with the Menzerna Intensive Polish. If you have an orbital buffer you may want to use that instead of the rotary again. If the holograms are really bad you may need to get the Menzerna Power Gloss and follow up with the Intensive Polish and Final Polish II. Again I would suggest applying this with the orbital buffer first and if needed use the rotary buffer at a low speed. I hope this helped and if I was unclear about any part please let me know.

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Old 05-11-2007, 10:21 AM   #1500
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Thank you, that was exactly the kind of response I was looking for

I think I will be placing a large order with you guys soon...I'm planning to do a full claybar/polish/sealant/wax job in late June. The list of things I have right now is as follows:

PC buffer
Lake Country Pads + Snappy clean
Clay MagicFine Grade 200g clay bar + Quick Detailer
SSR 2.5
SSR 1
Menzerna FTG
Menzerna FMJ
Natty's Blue Paste Wax

Great site guys!
I'm glad my information was helpful and that you're ready to complete a full detail. It's very rewarding in my experiences and leaves your vehicle looking great. The only suggestion I have is that you may want to get the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II instead of the SSR 2.5 and 1. Other than that your order looks great and it should come out looking fantastic. I also wanted to make sure you have enough time to take advantage of our Porter Cable special prices, which are for the month of May only.

Let me know if you have any further questions that I can help you with.

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