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Old 08-02-2005, 01:25 AM   #161
edco
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My Porter Cable variable orbital polisher scares me !

So I got the PC 7424 for Father Day and I havent taken it out of the box despite spending the money for a variety of pads, polishes, waxes, etc as you recommended

Can you give me some tips on where to start..how to begin...so that I don't "burn" the paint or over or under do anything...

I read about guys who learned on beaters, but I don't have that opportunity..

Thank you in advance
Safe Travels

ED in NJ
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Old 08-02-2005, 09:49 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimfish
hey george!
just wanted to know, do you ship orders outside the US?
ive been wanting to get a porter cable for a long time and
had asked everywhere else but none seems to be able to
ship them to Malaysia where i live. well most companies
wouldn't, so i guess i could try my luck here
PM me your full addy and I'll see what I can do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edco
So I got the PC 7424 for Father Day and I havent taken it out of the box despite spending the money for a variety of pads, polishes, waxes, etc as you recommended

Can you give me some tips on where to start..how to begin...so that I don't "burn" the paint or over or under do anything...

I read about guys who learned on beaters, but I don't have that opportunity..

Thank you in advance
Safe Travels

ED in NJ
The PC was designed to take your fears away. It sounds like what you are referring to is a rotary buffer. Those on the other hand can easily burn paint, cause marring, etc. The PC is a random oscillating machine that is designed to not generate enough heat to burn thru the paint (I'm sure there are exceptions of people keeping it on full speed for hours in the direct sunlight). But if you have any common sense what-so-ever you won't have a problem with burning thru your paint.

Where to begin... First of all the best thing anyone can do is to assess their vehicle. Your car is not going to need the same exact treatment as another car, or even the same treatment your car got last year. Driving conditions change, scratches, swirls, contamination, etc. are all different every time you go out to perform a detail. I think the biggest thing I see that people do wrong when detailing is they always just to the most aggressive pad / product. You always want to detail with the least aggressive product that will get the job done, for example... If Final Polish II will do the job with a white polishing pad... Why go with the Intensive Polish first? You are removing more of your clear than needed to get the job done and you want to keep as much clear on your car as you can while achieving the results you want.

Next tip: Please match the product to the pad! Do not use a cutting polish with a finishing pad and do not use a cutting pad with a sealant! You can do more damage than good and will yield little to no results.

One nice tip that I suggest using is to mist your pads with a quick detailing solution. What this will do is provide extra lubrication, reduce splatter, and keep the product on the surface and reduce it from soaking in the pad. Mist the pad after each panel roughly.

Start slow... ~3 on your dial and work up to a speed you feel comfortable with. I like running the PC around 4.5 - 5 myself when working in a polish.

Tape off your trim so you don't get any polish or caked up product on / in there. We use 3M painters tape.

Work in overlapping passes. Make a 2' x 2' box, outline your box with the pad with the product on the pad. This will reduce splatter and help section off the part of the car you are working on. Start in one corner and work up and down overlapping your last pass by 50%. Then do the same with left to right. Once your 2' x 2' area is complete wipe off and move onto the next. There probably won't be much product left to see but you always want to give it a good wipe w/ the microfiber.

Pressure: For polishing I like to apply a little bit of pressure, for glazes and sealants I let the weight of the 7424 do most of the work.

Label your pads! Only use 1 product per pad and don't mix them. It will be worth it in the long run!

I think that covers a lot of the basics. Let me know if you have any specific questions you may have.

Sincerely,

George Dushensky
Detailed Image - Owner
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:24 PM   #163
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Wow, my head hurts...

I just finished reading the first 4 pages and I am more confused than ever. I take pride in my car, but have never invisted in a good wax/polish/whatever else there is.

I am looking for a product htat is relatively easy to use and 1 step. I understand Klasse is pretty good, but should I follow that up with another product. I have always used Meguiars wash and wax. 2 steps, decent results. I would also use a spray detailer between wax (also meguiars). What is the best thing for someone like myself, looking for 1 or 2 products, to get a good looking shine?

I don't really udnerstand the difference between wax and polish (and yes, I did search and I still don't understand). Should I layer wax or just polish?

Your help is appreciated!!!!!!!
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Old 08-02-2005, 10:51 PM   #164
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a polish is acually abrasive, you rub it on the paint, it grinds on there then you remove it (buff it off) a wax sits on top of the paint and doesnt hurt anyhting.
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:53 AM   #165
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Mr10 - A little more in depth explanation, now that I have sorted through this stuff myself and have used all the various descriptions you have read (I was in your position a few weeks ago).

Clay - removes contaminents that are microscopic, and even visible, from the clear coat to prevent damage.

Polish - does what it says, and what Prim said. It is an abrasive that removes a very small amount of clear coat to bring out little scratches in the clear and water marks, swirl marks.. basically very minor defects. There are many different grits.

Glaze - will fill in minor defects not removed from the above, but again minor defects. It really adds to the look of the paint.

Protectant - Zaino, FMJ, and the like.. easiest way to describe this.. it seals in the glaze and offers (like its' name says) protection fom the elements

Wax - a wax is the final touch, everything else makes it look good.. the wax helps to make it easier to keep it looking good.

I know it is a lot of information, a lot to digest, and the steps seem obnoxious and fanatical. All I can say is that I have a Techno Violet E36.. and until I went and did everything above to him, I never saw the blue that makes the color the purple it is. You may not need to do all of the above steps, and if you do.. what I am seeing is that you don't need to do them every time you detail your car.. These guys are great and if you have any questions, ask them direct via PM or call them.

K
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:51 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
PM me your full addy and I'll see what I can do.



The PC was designed to take your fears away. It sounds like what you are referring to is a rotary buffer. Those on the other hand can easily burn paint, cause marring, etc. The PC is a random oscillating machine that is designed to not generate enough heat to burn thru the paint (I'm sure there are exceptions of people keeping it on full speed for hours in the direct sunlight). But if you have any common sense what-so-ever you won't have a problem with burning thru your paint.

Where to begin... First of all the best thing anyone can do is to assess their vehicle. Your car is not going to need the same exact treatment as another car, or even the same treatment your car got last year. Driving conditions change, scratches, swirls, contamination, etc. are all different every time you go out to perform a detail. I think the biggest thing I see that people do wrong when detailing is they always just to the most aggressive pad / product. You always want to detail with the least aggressive product that will get the job done, for example... If Final Polish II will do the job with a white polishing pad... Why go with the Intensive Polish first? You are removing more of your clear than needed to get the job done and you want to keep as much clear on your car as you can while achieving the results you want.

Next tip: Please match the product to the pad! Do not use a cutting polish with a finishing pad and do not use a cutting pad with a sealant! You can do more damage than good and will yield little to no results.

One nice tip that I suggest using is to mist your pads with a quick detailing solution. What this will do is provide extra lubrication, reduce splatter, and keep the product on the surface and reduce it from soaking in the pad. Mist the pad after each panel roughly.

Start slow... ~3 on your dial and work up to a speed you feel comfortable with. I like running the PC around 4.5 - 5 myself when working in a polish.

Tape off your trim so you don't get any polish or caked up product on / in there. We use 3M painters tape.

Work in overlapping passes. Make a 2' x 2' box, outline your box with the pad with the product on the pad. This will reduce splatter and help section off the part of the car you are working on. Start in one corner and work up and down overlapping your last pass by 50%. Then do the same with left to right. Once your 2' x 2' area is complete wipe off and move onto the next. There probably won't be much product left to see but you always want to give it a good wipe w/ the microfiber.

Pressure: For polishing I like to apply a little bit of pressure, for glazes and sealants I let the weight of the 7424 do most of the work.

Label your pads! Only use 1 product per pad and don't mix them. It will be worth it in the long run!

I think that covers a lot of the basics. Let me know if you have any specific questions you may have.

Sincerely,

George Dushensky
Detailed Image - Owner

That makes me feel a lot more confident..In fact, although I am away from home until Monday, on Tues I am going to post a picture of the hood my car. I have a chip and some scratches..I brought it to one of the "good guys" on the board who gave me a good price to repaint the whole hood, BUT after reading one of the posts about how to repair nicks and scratches, I will post a picture and if you don't mind, tell me if you think it really needs a complete hood repaint or not..Look for it on Tuesday..

Thanks again and
Safe Travels
ED in NJ
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:21 PM   #167
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i don't think my paint needs claying, but to be safe, and remove whatever small particles that might be, would "P21S Paintwork Cleanser" be sufficient?

i know the P21S is a liquid, whereas the claybar is.. yeah, a bar , but how does this product compare to a claybar?
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:45 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayerischeMW
i don't think my paint needs claying, but to be safe, and remove whatever small particles that might be, would "P21S Paintwork Cleanser" be sufficient?

i know the P21S is a liquid, whereas the claybar is.. yeah, a bar , but how does this product compare to a claybar?
P21s Paintwork Cleanser is actually a very fine polish. 2 different animals that do different things.

Clay - Remove surface contamination
Polish - Remove micro swirls, scratches, brighten the paint and add depth

I know it is listed under our Pre-wax Cleaners, but it is no different than any of the polishes. I just never got around to listing all the other products under the Pre-wax section.

Let me know if that clarifies things!

Greg
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:48 PM   #169
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ahh, yes, that clarifies a whole lot! thanks

do you offer any such products which removes surface contamination, not a claybar, but a liquid of some sort?
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:59 PM   #170
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Claying

BMW - to help out a bit would you put Carnuba on a dirty car? I did not think so... calying (once you get the hang of it) will not take long for the benefits it adds... you may not need to spend an entire Saturday (like Obsessive-compulsive me did) on your car, but if you really want a good protected and "popping" finish, you should start with a dawn wash, clay, polish, glaze, protectant, wax.. at the very least.. dawn, clay, protectant, wax...the clay step is well worth it.. I did see sites on the web that showed the damage from the contamination that the clay removes.. it is worth it.. takes maybe 1 hour for the whole car give 30 minutes (i.e. add 30 minutes for your first time).. but it is worth it..

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Old 08-07-2005, 08:59 PM   #171
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thanks 1999 TV Dinan M. my plan was to wash, dry, polish, klasse AIO, glaze, sealant, carnauba, because my paint feels like it doesn't need to be clayed right now, but i might be wrong. i'll be going over the paint tomorrow and checking more carefully whether it really needs to be clayed or not.

perhaps someone could give a description of the claying process? i know where little about it.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:47 AM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayerischeMW
thanks 1999 TV Dinan M. my plan was to wash, dry, polish, klasse AIO, glaze, sealant, carnauba, because my paint feels like it doesn't need to be clayed right now, but i might be wrong. i'll be going over the paint tomorrow and checking more carefully whether it really needs to be clayed or not.

perhaps someone could give a description of the claying process? i know where little about it.
No problem BMW.. since you are doing that all, you might as well go the extra mile.. claying seems scary at first, believe me I was leery until the guys showed me how to do it.. Simply put, lubricate lubricate lubricate!!! Work in a 2' x 2' or so area.. you will need a few microfibre towels, plenty of either quick detailer, or a solution of good car wash and water in a spray bottle. Cut the clay bar (depending on bar size) in to 1" x 1" squares and spray with lubricant in container. Pull one piece, knead it very well with clean hands that have the lubricant solution on them.. when it is less crumbly, you can mold it in to flat round, remember skipping stones on the water as a kid? just like that size and shape. Spray the lubricant on a freshly washed area and glide the clay over in straight back and forth motions.. you will feel it snagging (like a hangnail on clothes) along the way.. this is it picking up junk off your clearcoat. When it glides smoothly over the surface, that area is done. Wipe away residue with a microfibre. Knead, repeat on another area.. this next piece is CRITICAL.. if you drop the clay (you will at least once) do NOT use it, throw it out. If you feel like you are dragging, like an eraser as opposed to gliding (you will feel the difference) you are not using enough lubrication. Any questions, feel free to ask..

K
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Old 08-08-2005, 08:19 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999 TV Dinan M
No problem BMW.. since you are doing that all, you might as well go the extra mile.. claying seems scary at first, believe me I was leery until the guys showed me how to do it.. Simply put, lubricate lubricate lubricate!!! Work in a 2' x 2' or so area.. you will need a few microfibre towels, plenty of either quick detailer, or a solution of good car wash and water in a spray bottle. Cut the clay bar (depending on bar size) in to 1" x 1" squares and spray with lubricant in container. Pull one piece, knead it very well with clean hands that have the lubricant solution on them.. when it is less crumbly, you can mold it in to flat round, remember skipping stones on the water as a kid? just like that size and shape. Spray the lubricant on a freshly washed area and glide the clay over in straight back and forth motions.. you will feel it snagging (like a hangnail on clothes) along the way.. this is it picking up junk off your clearcoat. When it glides smoothly over the surface, that area is done. Wipe away residue with a microfibre. Knead, repeat on another area.. this next piece is CRITICAL.. if you drop the clay (you will at least once) do NOT use it, throw it out. If you feel like you are dragging, like an eraser as opposed to gliding (you will feel the difference) you are not using enough lubrication. Any questions, feel free to ask..

K
Your hired! LOL

Couldn't have said it any better myself... sounds like your trip to Albany was well worth it!


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Old 08-08-2005, 08:49 AM   #174
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thanks again 1999 TV Dinan M, excellent guide!
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:36 AM   #175
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Your hired! LOL

Couldn't have said it any better myself... sounds like your trip to Albany was well worth it!


George
LOL, funny thing is I am trying to find something to do on my own..

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW
thanks again 1999 TV Dinan M, excellent guide!
Glad I could help!
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Old 08-08-2005, 10:03 AM   #176
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Hire me too!

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Old 08-10-2005, 11:16 AM   #177
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did you recieve my PM George?
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Old 08-10-2005, 11:27 AM   #178
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did you recieve my PM George?
On it right now, look for a PM back within the next half hour. Sorry I've been out of town for personal reasons.

George
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:52 PM   #179
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OK so I ordered some Klasse. Now I have a few questions about application. I have read that I should apply the product to the entire car before wiping it off and I have heard apply to a small aread and then remove.

I was planning on using a microfiber cloth to spread and to polish. Will that work?

Any tips from people who have used Klasse in the past?

Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:53 PM   #180
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Originally Posted by mr10smith
OK so I ordered some Klasse. Now I have a few questions about application. I have read that I should apply the product to the entire car before wiping it off and I have heard apply to a small aread and then remove.

I was planning on using a microfiber cloth to spread and to polish. Will that work?

Any tips from people who have used Klasse in the past?

Thanks!

ONE MORE THING, should I apply a wax after I use Klasse?
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