![]() |
![]() |
|
|
||||||
|
DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need! |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Rating:
|
Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
First to start off... the only tools you'll need are:
1.)Flat Blade screw driver 2.)Phillips Screw driver 3.)heat gun (or blowdrier) aprox. time is 1-1.5hrs to remove. 2-3hrs to reinstall. 1.) Removing the long upper trim piece. It's only a dozen or so phillips screws. In order to access them you must pull the rubber seals away from around your door jamb. You simply pull on it, it's only a friction fit. No need to remove the whole thing, just around the top where the window hits. ![]() You'll be able to access the ones along the doors no problem, it's the back window that's a bit tricky, yet still simple. (on coupes) start removing the back rubber seals in the same fashon as around the front door, just find a place and pull on it. This exposes the screws, but the window glass will prohibit you from accessing them, you'll need to partially remove the rear window (explained later, keep reading) You should be able to get to this point in the removal process no problem.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
2.) Removing the lower door sill trim:
Pull the seal back by removing the rubber from 2 anchor holes in the door, do this by gently pulling the rubber from the formed holes. Shown here: then use a screw driver and gently pry up to start lifting the trim. Be gentle to avoid kinking the trim. walk the screw driver downt the trim towards the mirror to do it as evenly as possible. shown here: When you get to the side view mirror...you have to slide it out. The trim is tucked under the rearview and needs to be pulled out about a 1/4 inch. Shown below: **note, when reinstalling the trim, make sure the grove matches up with the door
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
3.) Removal of lower rear window trim
First remove the retaining plastic rivet. Just pry up with a screw driver. You need to move the rear window out of the way a bit to give yourself some room. (this also allows you to access the bottom 2 screws at the corner of the upper window trim). -Open your rear window all the way. -Take a screw driver and pry the little plastic cone on the linear actuator away from the glass. This is exposes a ball and socket you just pop apart with your fingers.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
next use a heat gun and flat blade or something to pry between the paint and window trim. This is only on by 2 sided tape holding this piece on. Be careful so you don't crease/bend the trim. Be patient. it's... stuck on pretty good. You can even try prying it up far enough to cut the tape with a razor blade. Work from the back towards the front and try lifting it as evenly as possible.
Once this piece has been fully removed, repeat for the other side. When you're finished, clean the old adhesive (goof off or some other adhesive remover) just as a hint, use something like a towel to prop the window open while you work at removing the screws at the top of the upper trim. when installing the lower rear trim... get some 2 sided tape to replace what you ripped off. I also put a bit of tape to use as a marker when i went to put the trim back on. Once the tape sticks,...it sucks to try and take off again. By putting the masking tape on, it gave me a line to go by when reapplying. reinstalling is pretty straight forward, just the reverse as shown. as a hint....when putting the rubber seal back in around the windows, start at a CORNER where the seal is bent at a 90°. It's a good point of reference to start. I'm tired of writing this, i probably have grammar errors and incoherent sentences. I don't feel like correcting it, I'm tired. any questions, feel free to post 'em. good luck.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
here' the original post from the showroom showing the completed project of replacing the trim
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=1#post3065327
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Registered User
|
Am I to understand that you only need the double-sided tape for the coupe rear window?
The sedan rear windows are prob just like the front, eh? I'll give it a look tomorrow. Great write-up. Thanks for being the first.
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Registered User
|
Nice. Im a bit confused on the long upper trim piece. Could you post a few pics please?
Thanks, Greg. |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
Yeah, i'll take pics later. Basically it has about 15 screws, all are hidden behind the rubber seal. just pull the seal down to expose the screws.
again, i'll take pics later. Quote:
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Registered User
|
awsome write up
thanks
__________________
01_330ci
black/black *gone but not forgotten* |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Registered User
|
i got a better idea.... leave it parked outside in 100degree sun and come back in a few hours to the trim hanging off the roof.... happens to me 3times a week thats why i got superclue in the glovebox lol
__________________
2003 BMW ///M3
Carbon Black/Cinnamon 6MT |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Masterdebator
|
anything on the upper trim? plus where do you buy the two-sided tape?
__________________
![]() Mods:p46 6000K Headlights,M3 Steering Wheel,LED Taillights,M Footrest,Smoked Turn Signals,Smoked Sidemarkers,MTech II kit,CS Splitters,Gray Instrument Panel, Red Marker DIY,Ion Yellow Foglights/High Beams,Akebono Brake Pads, Smart Chrome/Leather Gear Selector,18" Staggered CSLs Future Mods:,H&R Sport Springs,Tint,ECIS Intake,M Lip Spoiler,OEM Aluminum Pedal Set,OEM M3 Mirrors |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Banned
|
EXCELLENT write up!
Here are some additional useful information: e46 sedan (ie 323i, 325i, 328i, 330i) window trims are interchangable regardless of built year. I swap mine (2000 323i) with a friend's (2001 330i). Likewise, plenty of member on this board conducted the same swap. I also heard that the same hold true for the e46 coupe. This statement is unconfirm because I thought all Coupes comes with chrome trim. Once again, excellent write up!!! Last edited by ADA; 08-07-2005 at 01:52 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#14 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Registered User
|
Is it possible to take off the chrome trim while maintaining it's shape? If so, why not take off the trim and then painting it yourself? Would save us some $$$
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#16 | |
|
Banned
|
Quote:
Nope. The trim swap takes less than 15 minutes per side. The trims are held by a bunch of tension clip. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17 | |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
Quote:
If you're going to paint it yourself, scuff the chrome up with 500grit sandpaper and spray away. I don't reccommend rattle can paint, but it does work...for a little while.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 | |
|
www.thielstudios.com
|
Quote:
here's the pic i promised...forgot...and now remembered to take. Here shows the rubber seal pulled back. Right here only 3 screws are exposed, but removing the seal farther will expose nearly a dozen or more screws for removing the upper trim piece
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#19 |
|
Registered User
|
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#20 |
|
Registered User
|
thanks for the great write up LAFENGAS
if i may add, for those who prefer to have the rear windows removed to gain better access to the upper two screws of the trim, you can simply snap off the interior panel (seatbelt) which will expose the two 10mm nut that holds the windows. i had to remove mine cuz i didn't want to scratch my tint from the screw driver and plus it gave me a better work space when removing/replacing the seal and the bottom trim. here's the pix.... oh and the second nut is located at the bottom, sorry forgot to put the arrow... |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|