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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-21-2012, 07:27 PM   #81
Kwill
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very helpfull
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:59 PM   #82
jkahng
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quote...
Step 15:

Once the the O2 sensors are plug back in at there connectors and tucked into their clips it is now time to put everything back together. Everything is reverse of the removal process starting with the engine fuel rail cover. Then the unit with the 4 torx screws that holds the cabin microfilter. Now reinstall the cabin filter, and undercarriage and you are all set you have now just installed your own Post-Cat O2 sensors.

I just wanted to include one last thing which is about installing your own Pre-Cat O2 sensors which are much simpler and probably would only take you 30 minutes tops. Looking into your engine bay remove your left hand side engine cover and you can easily see where the Pre-Cat O2 sensors are installed. All you will have to do is remove the old ones install the new ones and route the wires which is a lot simpler than the Post-Cat Sensors. Here are some Pictures of where they are located I had done them a couple weeks earlier and didnt feel it was necessary to make a DIY for these for they are to simple.
Unquote..

My 02 330ci has 127k miles and I did not know if the sensors were orig. or not but just to be on the the safe side I decided to change the pre cats and here are some observations.


- I bought mine through Amazon, they had the exact same markings as the orig. i pulled out except the lack of "Germany" marking he new one.. price shipped was about $95 for 2 sensors

- for some reason, the OEM O2 sensor tool(spark plug socket looking thing) i bought DID NOT fit(too small) I ended up renting the tool set.

- If you are doing the pre cats ONLY, there is no need to take out the cabin filter assembly. the fuel rail cover comes off pretty easily. just like the OP says.

- it's easier to use the non-spark plug type tool to get the sensor loose and undo by hand (vice versa for installation: screw on the sensor by hand and
tighten snug with tool). the spark plug type socket makes you fold the top part of the wire which cannot be good

- the sensors come off pretty much hassle free. (the last set of o2 sensor i did was on a 97 Nissan Maxima and that was a good 2 hr job involving a torch penetrating fluid.)

- whole process took 40 mins including 20 mins to rent the tool...

car drives better in 1st gear and i don't notice knock/ping when i'm trying to accelerate from low rpm (lets say 4th gear 1500 rpm)
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:15 AM   #83
jzwu
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I am trying to order the precat sensors. Are they the same part?

But I saw two different part #'s for them and the pictures are different too. Someone please clarify this.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:10 PM   #84
jkahng
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2 pre-cats needed (sensor 1 bank 1, and sensor 1 bank 2)
part number : Bosch 13477 Oxygen Sensor

2 post-cats needed ( sensor 2 bank 1, sensor 2 bank 2 )
part number : Bosch 15109
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:39 PM   #85
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http://www.obd2tool.com/goods-582-BMW+Scanner+140.html

this scanner will do everything you need and more
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:27 PM   #86
hannzon
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For my 2004 BMW X3(E83) automatic transmission the part numbers are:

Bank 2 Sensor 2 (Cyl 4-6) - Bosch 15681 <--Post cat
Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Cyl 1-3) - Bosch 15680 <--Post cat
Bosch 17215 + 17216 <--Pre-cats

Hope that helps.

Last edited by hannzon; 06-21-2012 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Sorry. I had the wrong pre-cats in. These are longer for the X3.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:21 AM   #87
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Just did the post cat sensors 2 days ago. I will NEVER do that again, unless i had the right tools. While under there now i understand that a 22mm open end wrench would've proved invaluable, especially if its thin. That or a wobbly socket so you can have your ratchet in there with a better angle. Also an adjustable extension socket would do too. If you have a problem breaking them loose find something to use as leverage. I didnt have to muscle anything. I used the long pole attached to my quick pump low jack. That bar was a life saver. After attacking one of the 6 (?) bolt holding on the shield covering oil pan that wouldnt come loose, that bar did it without event a grunt.
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Last edited by NumbaOneNewb; 09-04-2012 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 10-07-2012, 04:33 PM   #88
cyclocross
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Some thoughts on O2 sensor changes

Hi, all. I just did the four O2 sensors on the wife's 325i (MY 2002, 2/02 build, automatic). The DIY is very useful, but here are some comments.

The 7/8" sensor socket would not fit over the installed pre-sensors. Interesting because the socket would fit over the new sensors. Instead I used a 7/8" crowfoot and the sensors were replaced with out any problems. I did use a little Liquid Wrench on the old sensors.

The underside of my car is different from that in the photos. There is a plastic pan under the engine and an aluminum pan under the tranny. The aluminum pan is held in by eight bolts that require a 16mm (5/8") socket. Once this pan is removed access to the post-sensors is very good. I was able to R&R them with a 22mm box-end. Again, I used Liquid Wrench on the old sensors. I used a straightened coat hanger taped to the new sensor plug to pull the cable up from behind the tranny.

BTW, on my car for both the pre- and post- sensors the front plug led to the front sensor and the rear plug to the rear sensor. Thus, it was very easy to ensure that the right sensor was connected to the right plug.

Boy, did I save a ton of money doing it myself.

Thank you for the DIY.

Dan

Last edited by cyclocross; 10-07-2012 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:25 PM   #89
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Which o2 sensor to change? Have codes

I just got a CEL on my 2003 325iT; ran a scan with engine cold and engine warm, with BMW scanner 1.4. Cleared the errors but some came back right away. I can't figure out which bank or sensor is faulty?

Codes:
296b [ 10603 ] lambda sensors after cat switched (code that keeps coming back many times)

Got this code 1 time as car was warming:
28F3 [10483] Lamdasensor bank2: trimm control

29A0 [10656 ] O2-sensor behind KAT Bank 1:signal
(old original code that didn't come back when I scanned for a while)

BMW price for one post-cat sensor here is $290 + tax, what part # is of equal quality from Napa or national car parts chain?

Is bank 1 the easier one to change? Pls advise I can buy the part now and try the diy.
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Last edited by gnome; 10-27-2012 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:57 AM   #90
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I bought all 4 of my o2s for around $210. I have a 330ci. They're bosch o2s, same ones used in our cars, just not the "genuine" bmw let me rip you off ones. I remembered that one part # is 13477.. The other was like 105......don't remember the rest. Google it with the word bosch in front and o2 afterwards. You'll come up with something
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Last edited by NumbaOneNewb; 10-28-2012 at 04:36 AM.
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:02 AM   #91
NumbaOneNewb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnome View Post
I just got a CEL on my 2003 325iT; ran a scan with engine cold and engine warm, with BMW scanner 1.4. Cleared the errors but some came back right away. I can't figure out which bank or sensor is faulty?

Codes:
296b [ 10603 ] lambda sensors after cat switched (code that keeps coming back many times)

Got this code 1 time as car was warming:
28F3 [10483] Lamdasensor bank2: trimm control

29A0 [10656 ] O2-sensor behind KAT Bank 1:signal
(old original code that didn't come back when I scanned for a while)

BMW price for one post-cat sensor here is $290 + tax, what part # is of equal quality from Napa or national car parts chain?

Is bank 1 the easier one to change? Pls advise I can buy the part now and try the diy.
As far as which one is easier to change, none of the post cats are easy, and you might as well change them both out. These things are always changed either in pairs, or all at once. They could be originals and need to be changed around 100,000 miles. One of mine went out around 130,000 so that's when I changed them all out. Regarding replacements, be careful of sellers who tell you that they are bosch but in fact are Chinese fakes. I bought mine on ebay. Wherever you buy it at, make sure you ask them if they will be in original bosch boxes and make sure the boxes are there when you receive them. If not they're counterfeits. The pre cat o2s I bought came in a white box with a Sticker saying bosch. Inside they were in a clear bag with some sort of part# i didn't recognize. It was from some seller named abc...Something. Do not buy from these lying a$$ frauds. I called them up complaining that they sold me Chinese fakes. The guy on the phone (who I could easily tell was chinese) denies my claim but i eventually got them to pay return shipping and refund my money.
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Last edited by NumbaOneNewb; 10-28-2012 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:29 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkahng View Post
the spark plug type socket makes you fold the top part of the wire which cannot be good
I had the same concern with the Autozone rental sockets, and I ended up buying one from bavauto
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:02 AM   #93
NumbaOneNewb
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The one from auto zone comes with 3 different type of o2 sockets or at least the one that I rented was. I ended up using the open top one. Looked like someone. Snapped off the end of a wrench and cut a slit into it.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:19 AM   #94
lrp101
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Maf

Getting rich on bank 2 and misfire cyc. 4..The car runs really bad with maf plugged up and much better unplugged. Tried new maf, coil, plugs and so on. Some one said it was down stream o2 problem. Any ideas ??
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:28 PM   #95
glhx
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Run fuel trims long term and short term.

If you don't have scanner.....use

Torque pro for android phone or tablet you need small elm327 to go with it. Then you can read fuel trims and that will allow you to trace your problem.

You can also see live data from all 4 o2 sensors and maf.

My problem was maf upon acceleration only. Without fuel trims......you can't see that stuff

Total cost$30

Last edited by glhx; 03-15-2013 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:40 PM   #96
lrp101
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Thanks I'll try that...
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:09 PM   #97
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http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=967204

All the software in this thread
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:50 PM   #98
veli510
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you think pb blaster will work just to loosen the sensor from it's place?
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:04 PM   #99
HOTBMW
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Just did the sensors. Everyone knows by now the post cats are a total PITA! I used two types of removers. First I used the type with the handle attached with a short breaker bar to get the easiest/closest one and a 1/2" (ratchet size) 7/8" socket crows foot with the same breaker bar for back sensor. Got both of these at Autozone. I threaded each sensor one at a time with a coat hanger to make sure the correct sensor went to the correct connection. Took a while (it's a little warm in Texas now) but finished. Miller time!
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:40 PM   #100
1timtraci
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Bank1 or Bank2?

Im getting fault codes (P0140/141) that tell me sensor 2 bank 1 is faulty. I know sensor 2 means pst cat but am not sure what bank 1 means. I'm hoping its the easier of the 2 to replace. Can anyone help?
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